dave.t1

Hi, Can anyone confirm that the Astute and Super Astute share the same body but use different colour scheme and decal set? If this is correct, then both shells should have Astute "stamped" on the body somewhere? Also does the Super Astute use some of the screw bags from the Astute, if so what bags are they and are they labelled as "Astute Screw Bag A", etc, etc. Your help would be appreciated as I am trying to find out if I have all the correct parts in my NIB kit or wether it has been made up from both an Astute and Super Astute kit...

Hi, I was cruising the web a couple of weeks ago and found some info on how dodgy web sites work. I seem to remember that you can put anything you like into the web address followed by an @ then the actual address. This means that <www.ebay/security.com@dodgy.site.co.uk> would actually go to <www.dodgysite.co.uk>. The web page format ignores anything before the @. Clever hackers could also hide the site by changing the way the last bit looks by using the IP address format, (i.e 255.193.14.197) or changing to a different number base. Ok so at this point I lost the thread a bit but bottom line is that you can be fooled easily if you are not carefull. If any one is interested in more info, I can try to find the site again and send the link to them.

Hi, I hope to make the Sunday, as long as I can get the "time off" authorised from the missus...!

I have always had no problem with missing parts or broken parts/faulty parts being replaced FOC by the UK importer. A covering letter and the part should be enough. I always phone first of all then a few days later to confirm receipt by them. As long as you are genuine there should be no problem.

I unfortunately have had problems with items I have bought from both UK and abroad. I bought some PC hardware from a UK guy with good feedback, (won the auction and paid straight away via Paypal). I contacted the buyer but never heard another thing. I bought a signed Tamiya RC guide from a guy in the US and he kept promising to send it untill finally he started bouncing my mail. And yes I have experienced the Ukraine scam on a Palm Pilot I sold. Due to the time difference between the buyer and myself, I got paid & the money seized by Paypal before I got the chance to contact the buyer again let alone post the item (close call). It is all a bit of a gamble. I only accept money from confirmed Paypal users and will either ask for a cheque or postal order instead or return the money if they are not. If you put these requirements on the auction than you can claim your fee back as anyone not fitting your requirements can count as an unwanted claim, etc.

Hi, I would leave the paint for a couple of weeks myself... It may sound excessive but you really really need the base coat to cure before you paint on top. It does not matter so much if you are rubbing down and laying on another coat of the same but clear will dissolve the paint underneath if it is fresh. If you have two colours on your body, then they will blend into each other and metallics will go swirly! Assuming the base colour has no runs and is smooth enough for a top coat, I would spray a very light coat on first to seal the paint underneath, (more of a dusting really). Then I would apply several light coats and then rub the body down with really fine wet and dry. Just enough to remove any blemishes or spots, etc. The finished effect should be a matt - flat finish, (note, too much rubbing and you will be through to the base coat and maybe even the primer). Then spray a couple more light coats on. Try spaying from one end to the other of the body so that you are continuosly spraying onto wet paint. This helps to give a nice flat finish with no roughness or overspray which will make the surface dusty. Again leave for a couple of weeks and then either just polish with very fine polish or wax. Either way the paint must be hard enough to stand abrasion. If adding decals I would apply before the topcoat goes on.

For really tricky detail I use a hair dryer. The decals go soft and will then bend and stretch round. Typical applications would be front and rear headlights, etc. Too much heat and the decal will stretch and will become useless...

35 in Feb.....

Hi, I had a built from scratch Top Force EVO a few years back and had to use Schumacher buggy wheels and matching (square block) tyres to run it. I remember the hobby shop saying they came from a 1/8th buggy. The hex was identical to Tamiya and they where very good. Dave

If the previous solutions do not provide the results you want, then you can order new upgraded plates (made of carbon fibre) from www.fibre-lyte.co.uk. I have used these parts before and they are very very good. They beat the FRP parts easy....

Hi, I have started getting the following this evening and it has taken about ten goes to get the TC home page up. Info as below..... The page cannot be displayed There is a problem with the page you are trying to reach and it cannot be displayed. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Please try the following: Click the Refresh button, or try again later. Open the www.tamiyaclub.com home page, and then look for links to the information you want. HTTP 500.100 - Internal Server Error - ASP error Internet Information Services -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Technical Information (for support personnel) Error Type: Microsoft OLE DB Provider for ODBC Drivers (0x80040E14) [Microsoft][ODBC Microsoft Access Driver] Unknown /tc_tools/interface.asp, line 163 Browser Type: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows NT 5.1; .NET CLR 1.1.4322) Page: GET /Default.asp Time: 26 September 2003, 19:47:27 More information: Microsoft Support

Worked fine for me.

I think that the main problem is people think the truck is tougher than it really is. Yes, it is a robust truck in comparison to other Tamiya models, but people tend to really pound it instead of giving it a little respect. I own one and make it do jumps that end up with it 5foot in the air.... on a regular basis. I would not do that with my TG10R, etc. The gearbox is rather comnplicated and is not as easy to deal with as other Tamiya gearboxes. Once you are used to it, it should present no tuning/service problems. As far as the engine goes, everbody I know runs their's flat out all the time. This does lead to premature engine wear. This is usually due to wanting max speed (from a low ratio gearbox) or trying to take off from any kind of jump. The better engine is of course welcome in the WC. If treated correctly the truck is in my opinion excellent. The blue body TC may be marked as discontinued as the red one has just been released, however I do not remember either being marked as dicontinued in the 2003 RC guide... Dave

I had the same situation but I was the buyer. The seller never received the money I sent, so I claimed via the registered post service that I used. Eventually I got all of my money back. It did take 6 months though. Let them claim for the missing cash, not you.... Dave

Hi., Use Delta Activator! I was first to bring it to the forums attention at the beginning of the year. It dissolves paint off of lexan and does not hurt the plastic in any way. It is designed to remove paint/pen graffiti from plastic so is in fact the correct tool for the job. Do a search on it on the forum for contact details and pricing, etc, etc. Dave