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About Stickman

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  • Birthday 07/04/1970

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  1. Thanks for the failsafe info, I will get one fitted before the next outing
  2. ...was running... went to tune the carb at a disused carpark, transmitter battery failed as did the fail safe the car ended up running into a limestone wall at nearly full throttle...stripped the spur gear and bent some cooling fins but remarkably little damage considering the speed of impact, these are built tough! Ironically the engine ran really nicely after the crash but due to the stripped gear was undriveable. So, spur gear ordered, a new fail safe is on my shopping list for today, I can see how these nitro trucks get left in sheds and garages, they are kind of frustrating, but when it goes it really goes, so I will persevere. When I change the spur gear I'll add the rubber dampers in the starter gear.
  3. When I pulled it apart I noticed there were copper tubes in place of the rubber dampers, so the previous owner must have done that as a quick fix when the original rubber fell apart. The hobby shop that I got the spare gears from didn't have the rubber dampers but suggested using an o ring with the same cross section diameter and cutting my own (the shop owner himself is a big fan of the TNX and said he had used copper tubes and the o ring fix on TNX's in the past). I have the copper tube in there currently, but have bought the o rings to replace them next time I pull it apart. So at the moment the starter system works fine, the truck is fully operational I just need to tune the carb, its running a bit rich and the tick over is a bit low, so will try to make time at the weekend to sort that out. Thanks again for the advice and help, I wouldn't have even realised the copper pipe wasn't the right part without you suggesting I replaced the rubber dampers!
  4. I have ordered up a gear set, hopefully will be up and running soon, thanks acprc for the advice!
  5. Hi everyone! I was wondering if anyone has done a pull start conversion on a TNX truck before? And if so what parts were used. Or if anyone has a set of gears for the electric start that they are willing to sell so I can repair my starter. Thanks in advance for help and advice. Cheers Dave
  6. Hi everyone, I have listed a few bits on ebay, but can end auctions for a TC sale here instead I have an original sand scorcher body (Body is now sold) and a full set of vintage ford ranger wheels and tyres. Only want to sell as I'm trying to raise a little holiday funds. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171843488445 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171843467233 Open to offers. Ship anywhere at buyers expense. Thanks Dave
  7. Thanks for all the details, sounding like it should be a good day I have a gazebo and folding table, but can't guarantee they will fit in my car, will bring them if they do though..
  8. I will check the date as I have some people over in November, but will get back to you asap. Think I'll dust off the Clod and my old Frog...going to have a dig around and see what else I can cobble together Cheers Dave
  9. Hi guys, I have out of the hobby for a while due to work and house moving etc etc...I want to rectify that and would like to come along to you next meet if thats OK Cheers Dave
  10. Hi, Yeah, I saw that auction, unfortunately that is the pvc sail and alloy frame version, never been flown but I'm after the ripstop nylon type. I still have mine from about '81 and flies really well, but I want some more so I can stack them If I can't find any I'll have to scratch build one using mine as a template. My 8 year old son loves flying it and all the kids at the local park get jealous lol The search continues.... Cheers Dave
  11. Hi all, I'm wondering if anyone here has an old Peter Powell stunt kite from the '70's and early '80's they would like to sell, I'm specifically looking for the nylon sail with fibreglass frame model. Anything you have, incomplete kites, bits and pieces...please let me know! Many thanks Dave
  12. Hi and welcome! I find a good way to strip paint off wheels and hardbodies is using brake fluid, it doesn't harm the plastic and most paint bubbles up and washes off, unless its oil based that is... Hope this helps Dave
  13. I have only got 4000mah nimh and dont really want to get new batteries just for his car, even though it would sort the issue. I hadn't realised that the batteries were different sizes, I thought a 1500 sub-c cell was the same as a 4200 sub-c cell..obviously not.... Yeah, I had previously used the "tapping the chassis" technique, but the last time there was a larger bits wedged in there and the battery just didn't budge, at all, completely stuck. As it's my sons car I want him to be able to change batteries without resorting to the brute force i had to use last time I think I'm going to order a new chassis and then use the old one to experiment with a battery door release underneath. If I mess up at least I'll have a spare to rebuild it with! Think I'll have to invest in a dremel too....
  14. Hi Guys and Gals, My son is running my old champ ( My sons champ ) it runs great and is pretty much indestructable, but we're having problems getting batteries out after bashing the car around sand and loose stuff. For example, after the last bash at the weekend ( our last bash ) I had to hammer the battery out of the chassis as so much grit had been wedged inbetween the battery and the chassis that it wouldn't budge, I had to rip the battery heat shink covering off to get it out - this can't be normal.... I was thinking about ways to make battery changes easier, like modding the chassis by cutting a hole in the underside and putting in a hinged plate, similar to the frog, but I don't want to reduce the chassis strength. Has anyone else had this issue and come up with a simple work around? Any advise gratefully received! Cheers Dave
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