highflyer

Here in Las Vegas we have two indoor offroad tracks and it never rains here, it's just too darn hot!!! We adapt to our climate. Uk has rain so astro turf make perfect sense. ^^This^^ with one exception- Seattle, not many sunny days up there.

Is the XR and XM upgrade kits worth it? About $140 for each? For the competitive offroad racer/Tamiya nut, yes. For the casual offroader, ummm, not really as the 201 is a great buggy out the box for under 200 U.S. dollars... JMO. Like mentioned above, would like to see a "Worlds" 201 package come out later this year. The idea of keep having to upgrade is goofy, just hoped it got the treatment like the 501X then 501X WCE then the 511. I'm in the market for a 2wd buggy. I was at my local track and was amazed how well the TLR 22 and RB6 handled/jumped/land etc......... those buggies looked like 4wd's!! I'll stop rambling useless thoughts and info.

Nice looking Durga. Can I send you my 501X, needs a cleaning

+2 on TA-MARK's setup, track looks great.. I race at organized meets (local tracks), but I occasionally use the street/yard in front of my house to have fun with my older models.

I have an EVO IV that I have raced for years. The shaft is out of style for touring cars when it come to the highend racing, no new TRF shafty for over 2-3 years. Brushless/Lipo has took over and the Belt cars put the power down better than the shafties. Another route, Tamiya has done alot with the TB03 shaft car that can be a good performer using EVO V hopups and the like. You could probably find a new EVO VMS but it will cost the same or more than the 416-417 series. Remember this, the EVO IV is a seven year old design. That is ancient history for R/C racing.

God Bless Japan!

What time zone??

Good game, have not had time to play it much though.

Thats what I would go after if in need of parts.

For those who have been waiting for this game, its coming to North America on the 24th of November. More release info- http://blog.us.playstation.com/2010/11/12/...aign=gt5_111210 Car List - http://www.gran-turismo.com/local/jp/data1...carlist_en.html Track List - http://www.gran-turismo.com/local/jp/data1...rselist_en.html Reaction from a top Video Game website - http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=412847

hahaaa.....

Interesting its the stadium blitzer..and not the Beetle.

A good body for racing is the Mazdaspeed 6 made by protoform. 10.5T with the RS Pro is a powerful combo.

b-b-b-bump...

Mark, you can go with a TT01D with leds. Like this: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=58473 Personally, if I were going to get a drifter for fun I would go this route http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=58420 I like the TB03 because it is based on and share some parts with the TB EVOLUTION 5 Racer, it is a very capable car to run around the park or take it to the track with a change of wheels/tires . Just a thought.

How did it run like that?? I never tried it myself. That made me laugh Willy. Did you sort the shocks NoBrainer? Also, what surface are you going to race on (tarmac or carpet)?

I think the Avante will be next

I remember seeing the Avante in LHS. One shop/track had it at $325 (lowest price) and the others were from $350-$400 back then.

slimmy, your Mountaineer is to die for, beauty and the BEAST , love the Blazer also. My two favorite 3spds. Here is my Bruiser shelfer Lights, Camera, No Action

My boy 94eg! breaking it down yall....

That is what the threaded shocks are for, use the spring collar for adjustment (and oils if need) to get it to your liking. Thats the advantage of threaded shocks

Sounds like a good setup. Have fun I hear that Top Force UJ's (CVD like) are very strong and will fit DF03. Never tried it myself so I am not sure if its true.

A little less slop in the steering, and thats about it. I use a standard size servo (futaba s3004)... I dont use UJ's in my runners, never had a problem. They worked fine when I ran my aluminum truck before it was shelfed Forget the Hi-Caps, go with the TXT-1 alloys as both are about the same length.. The travel should not be a problem if set on the lower shock mounts.

I would go with the TXT-1 aluminum shocks. They will be a direct replacement and they can easily be adjusted by the spring tensioner (shock collar). For the evader shocks, you need to drill the shock bushings to accept the bolts etc. and additional fitting needs to be done. Plus you will need to play with springs and oil to get a good balance. And to be honest, they are not as nice (smooth) as the ancient Hi-Caps. The TXT-1's cost a little more but that is the route I would go due to the TRF quality material used by Tamiya. Needless to say, I love my TRF dampers/shocks on my race machines (EVO IV and TRF501X) TRF - Tamiya Racing Factory

For me, the yellow were to stiff (bouncy) and could not correct it with a heavier oil. So I went with the whites and 40 wt oil.