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wildwillydriver

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Everything posted by wildwillydriver

  1. Seems that you are going in the right direction... To understand if there is a difference between the two springs would be better to disassemble the shocks and press the springs with your fingers if they are all the same there is something wrong. If yes, it's easy to find a good set of them. My .02 cents is that you should not look for a full extention rebound this means that the shocks are too stiff and your KC will bounce too much, i think that the best set up to run is to have a rebound that makes rear arms parallel to the ground or very little above. This at least is how we use to set race cars as a start set up, then we fine tune depending on the track. Remember to set the rebound in ready to run condition with battery on the car. This should be the result after a complete to the ground press. Bye WWD
  2. Looking at your pics seems that you have the wrong springs on rear shocks........ can't be only a spacer issue. KC has 2 different springs for the front (very soft) and rear (hard). Check the front shocks to see if they have harder springs.... Bye WWD
  3. Still available! If intrested email me and we can discuss about the price, i don't bite and i'm sure we will find an "agreement". Thanks for looking. Bye WWD
  4. Finally fixed my Clod Runner with a new B11. It's one of my fav runner and i really missed him. Broken Spares Fixed Clod is back! Bye WWD
  5. OMG...... Really sorry for you and also for the precious parts...... Bye WWD
  6. Here we go the BV1 part that is needed. I don't know if also other KC owners have the same problem but i think that in this part of the car there is a small defect. As you will see if the BV1 is used, the shock will be in a better position and will work correctly but it rub a little against the "rear upper arm". This is due to butter soft rear arms that rotate when you hit the throttle, making the "rear upper arm" to rub against the shock, this torsion can be also seen looking at the "rear upper arm" adjuster that is slightly bent (can be seen also in the pics above). I hate this and i'm trying to find the way to fix it. It's only me with this "problem"? The best solution would be to have a stronger rear arm that don't rotate, but it's expansive to have a custom made one done...... Any KC expert had solved it and can share with us the solution? Bye WWD
  7. I remember that in the past (long time ago) was popular the formula below, not much different from what you already know. Battery Capacity (A)/Charger output (A) x 1,1 (as adjustment factor) 3/0,3 x 1,1 = 11hrs (this for your 3000Mah battery and 300ma charge output) If you want the minutes instead of hours it will be like this: Battery Capacity (A)/Charger output (A) x 1,1 (as adjustment factor) x 60 Easy maths... Bye WWD
  8. Hi, finally had the time to finish the video edit of the firts test run! You can CLICK HERE TO SEE THE VIDEO! This complete my resto topic, hope you enjoyed it. Bye WWD
  9. Have you the manual? If yes it's easy to fit them, since you just have to follow it and replace all the BD3 1150 plastic bearings (BD7 on the Re re manual) and the BT4 8850 plastic bearing (BT1 on the Re re) with the ball bearings you bought. If you don't have the manual you can easily find one on the internet to download, if you have any problem email me, i can help. Bye WWD
  10. Wow what a mate u have! Nice car, you have just to pay attention to the ball diff (weak point of the car) and you have a fantastic runner. Bye WWD
  11. With part #54220 you just have to use inch berings instead of the Tamiya metric ones. The ones that fit are the 3/16" x 3/8" bearings that are used on Team Associated B4, very easy to find on the "Bay" or on the net. Hope this help. Bye WWD
  12. Nice thread. 70' - Porsche 934 - Rough Rider - Sand Scorcher 80' - Super Champ - Wild Willy M38 - King Cab 90' - Dyna Storm - Mountaneer - TR-15T GP Stadium Truck 00' - Wild Willy 2 10' - TRF511 - TRF201 - TRF801X Not sure these one are all under the correct years.... Bye WWD
  13. Hi to all TR lovers.... the TR had it's first test run in a big and free of abstacles parking lot...... For the test i used an hot glow plug #3 and O'Donnell 25% nitro fuel (only this one in house at the moment), probably too high in nitro, 16% is more than enough for this kind of engines. The engine when set is very regular and "crisp" and accellerate quickly, a pleasure to hear. I did 3 full tanks and had no stalls bogs or issue of any kind, GOOD JOB TAMIYA!! A little tip for the firts start: the Tamiya manual seems to be not 100% correct....., i set the idle and the HSN (High Speed Needle) 3 turns out, pumped the fuel in to the engine (as by manual) and tried to start the motor, no success the engine was totally flooded...... The correct set is: HSN 2 1/4 turns out, just one hit on the tank pump, glow plug heater and 4-5 pull starts and the engine idle like a dream!! Now it's on you to set the HSN properly, if you run like me on a big space with long wide open throttle runs, stay on the rich side to prevent engine damage. As pointed out to me by email by a kind TC mate i forgot to mention that this difference is for sure in part due to the engine and needles wear that can have effect on engine set up, even if still sound strange to me a so big difference considering also the very high nitro % i used that in general help to run richer. Consider that these engines were made to run no nitro or very low % under 10%. I don't want to say that Tamiya is wrong and did an error i just found it a little bit strange, probably they set the engines below sea level and i live near the mountains...... Anyway, probably a brand new engine will start perfectly with Tamiya manual settings. Also the MDC clutch needs to be set a little more tight than what the manual say. The car has good speed and it's very very very fun to drive , perfect for donuts and sideway turns, by my words you can understand it lacks a little bit of traction, in part probably due to old tyres (even if still soft), i already have a new set of Pro-Line modern street truck tyres and RPM wheels ready to be assembled and tested, this to save the original NIB ones, not easy to find.... This is not a race car so i can't blame too much about performance and traction, it's a fantastic vintage basher, a king of parking lots and looks COOL! Had some Vds of the test that i'm trying to edit (very little skills on this...) and also some still pics (here below one), no running pics due to my Canon CF card failure, they are postponed to the next run....... Bye WWD
  14. Here below mine, there are also a couple of not vintage hope i don't brake any rule...... Tamiya - Super Astute (last 2WD buggy that i miss in my collection) - Super Champ (body only) - Sand Rover - Mountaneer - TFR801X (nitro 1/8 Buggy) Kyosho - Land Jump - Assault - Blizzard (nitro or electric still have to decide) AYK - Viper Mardave - Marauder - Mini Playtron - Viva Arizona or Mercedes 500K (i already have lot's of them but i'm always in search....). That's all even if it's always in change...... Bye WWD
  15. Yes i think U R right! MSC can easily manage Sport Tuned motor. Bye WWD
  16. Hi, Yes CA glue is perfect as i explained HERE in my TR-15T resto topic, near the end of 1st page. Do the process more than one time, it depends how much the screw thread is stripped. Hope this help. Bye WWD
  17. Thanks guys i really appreciate your comments! This was a very fun resto that went through smoothly i just need to find the time to test it on the street..... Thanks Kevin i immediately thought at it when i received the TR-15T and i looks very nice! Bye WWD
  18. Hi, the TR-15T is done and i'm proud to show you some pictures of it waiting for the first test run. You can CLICK HERE to see all the detailed pics in my showroom. Hope you found this resto topic intresting as much as i enjoyed to work on this beauty, will keep you informed about the first test run and also about some small changes i'll do in the next future..... Bye WWD
  19. This is a race package!! Will follow this topic with intrest. Bye WWD
  20. This is very kind of you, i really have no idea were to start to have these parts reproduced. I know that there are some company that can make custom parts on request reproducing what you send them but i don't know how they work and if they make a mold or what.... For sure if they will ever be reproduced i'd buy a couple of sets. Bye WWD
  21. Hi Zlimmy, nice car and topic! TamiyaDan you really know the way to go . Bye WWD
  22. Love the Clod and you have a fantastic car it will be awesome! Look forward to see it finished. Bye WWD
  23. Nice truck and goodies! I like the way you rebuilt it mantaining the original vintage look as much as possible. Bye WWD
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