wildwillydriver

I think that as for everything vintage it's worth what you are ready to pay for it........ To have an idea you can look at the "Bay" but they don't appear very often, i saw some new built or very good condition sold for something around 250£ GBP (more or less) but also for less than 150£..... btw. happy you found the backingpowder tips useful! Mine is done and soon will post pics. "GIVE IT GAS" Bye WWD

PM U! Bye WWD

You can see all the changes here, if you already don't know this doc: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/article.asp?id=44 Bye WWD

Hi thanks for the advice, it sounds good will try for sure! Anyway i'll keep hunting for an original one if someone can help.... Bye WWD

Hi, is an Astute or a Super Astute? Just to be sure..... If it's an Astute the weak points are C parts 3-2-4 (3&4 in particular in my experience) very delicate and easy to break, and also the ball diff that have to be packed carefully, following the manual, using a very good ball diff grease (Associated or Schumacher are the best in my experience) and using some extra SC7 diff spacers to avoid slipping. Pay attention to not overtighten the diff screws, diff housing B is like butter....... Anyway everything less than 19T put a lot of stress on it, with the need of frequent rebuilt. A lot of people use the Super Astute TTC transmission that is a lot stonger with slipper clutch, gear diff and able to manage brushless motors. My advice is, run it gently........ If it's a super Astute I have no direct experience, i'm only sure about the TTC transmission. Hope this help. Bye WWD

Hi All, i'm looking for 1 B11 part for my Clod (pic below as reference), i'd prefere not to buy all the B tree if possible, i just need the small B11. Thanks for your help. Bye WWD

The end of resto is near, the last step is dedicated to tyres and wheels, they are not in the best condition ever but good enough to be saved and used for the firts test run, i decided to save my nib set for the future considering also the rarity of the original tyres. I have also found a nice aftermarket combination of tyres and wheels that i think will be perfect to run the car giving also a cool look, i'll show them as soon as they are ready. Now back to the original ones here what i did after a good bath. I had to remove the old glue and to glue again the rear ones, i used Duratrax Tyre Glue and rubber band. I had to remove all the chrome from the wheels were the tyres glue to them, the previous owner didn't do it.... After, my attention went to tyres that needed a NIVEA cream treatment to have back some softness. It works wonder! And to finish the tyres some white lettering and a "Rubber Black" coat did the trick, now tyres shine. I'm at the end of my resto, soon will post some pics of the finisched car! Bye WWD

Thanks mate! I'm with you about the wheelie bar....... Thanks, i love to work on old nitro engine and with experience, and elbow grease results are great. About performance i'm really curious to test the car and the engine to see how they perform, if you look at how the piston pin was you can understand that the motor had some "good use".... hope it still has some life in, compression seems to be good enough, even if i don't have a new one to compare. For sure the motor is not an engineering masterpiece and there is not much attention to details (if i can say like this...), have a look at how the crankcase is inside, were the liner seats, it looks like a broken one after a strong engine seize..... :blink: The pic below is my engine after the clean but i have a NEW crankcase and it looks the same....... When i stripped the engine i though it was damaged, i felt better when i saw the new one.... Car is near the end now, i just finished to "restore" tyres, will add pictures soon. Bye WWD

What a nice Sand Viper, very aggressive!!! Love the 3Racing wheels look, i used them on my Dyna Storm racer for a couple of years and never had a problem, obviously to race i had to change the awful 3Racing plastic tyres........ To add pictures i generally use an on-line image hosting like imageshack and use the "Direct Link" inside the insert image you find on top, anyway i'm not a big expert about this and probably someone else will be able to give you more precise information. Bye WWD

For sure your MSC is shorted somewere... WW loves ESC it will run smoother and longer with it, you have just to check for a small enogh one to fit inside the the radio lid. You can remove all the MSC and resistors and just leave the MSC servo as a base for the steering one (if you have an old broken servo would be better). At the moment i have Futaba MC230CR ESC on both my WW (LWB and SWB), they works wonder and are small. Here below a picture of my WW with his firts ESC (Tekin) just to show you how i put them. Hope this help. Bye WWD

Thanks mate, don't worry i'll never touch this pictures. I always wanted a TR-15T but now that i see and work on one so closely i'm in love with it and look foward to the firts test run. Stay tuned! Bye WWD

I'm back with some good update! It's time to assemble all the clutch and flywheel system, bearings are a litte bit loose and Bostik came in help..... And i start to assemble everything with the help of a piston stopper to close the Pilot Shaft. Done! Ready to be back on the Chassis! Brake system with Hop Up disk (Tamiya part #53171) And mechanism deck with radio gear and fail safe. And fianlly the roll bar to protect the engine. Cleaned the body that it's not perfect but can do the job, considering that it's a runner. If i'll ever have the time and will i have the clear one with new decals to paint in metallic green. I'm very near the end and at the firts test, i'm now working on the original tyres and wheels and also on an alternative solution that i'll show you when ready. The original one are a little bit dry rotted and wheels lost some chrome but i think i'll use them to run the car and keep the new one i have for the future considering they are not easy to be found (tyres). Soon i'll be able to show you some pictures of the finished car. Bye WWD

It' time to rebuilt the engine, this will be a long post that will keep you busy for all the week end..... Let's start from the products i will use: - Nova Rossi Engine Oil (specifically formulated to rebuilt nitro engines) - After Run - Specific One Way Bearing Oil (I use the Serpent one) Before assemble the motor i had to put a new piston pin (thanks Myles.... ), you can see why by the pic below...... The small white piece you see near the piston is what was left of the pin stopper...... I'm a lucky man since the previous owner stopped the car after the clutch failure and the liner and piston are still perfect i think that a couple of minutes more and i had to find new ones...... Ok done! It's time to start the engine. Before put back the carb i put some Associated Green Slime on the o-ring for better seal. Then my attention went on the pull start one way bearing that was cleaned degreased and received a couple of One Way Bearing Oil drops, this oil is "magic" and can make an old one way works "like new". And then everything back together and the engine is done and shine again! It runs smooth and with good compression, let's wait for the firts street test to know how it perform. With a nice K&N filter...... It's now time to go for the flywheel, clutch, pinion and brake before put back the engine on the car, here below all the parts needed and ready. That's all for this week wish you all a nice week end and thank you for your attention. Bye WWD

I'm back with some info as promised. In the picture below the comparison between the original 3mm shocks O-rings (organge one) and the RCH ones for ball cups (Black one), measures as follow: Tamiya Shocks O-ring (3mm): Total Diameter: 6,5mm Internal Diameter: 3mm Height: 2mm RCH O-ring: Total Diameter: 7mm Internal Diameter: 4mm Height: 2mm I think that with a little search should be easy to find some rubber O-rings similar to RCH ones. Hope this help Bye WWD

What a nice car! You really have a nice DS with some nice touches. Bye WWD

I'm here again, with a little "how to" post since it's time to make the gasket for back plate. When you have to deal with nitro engines (new or old) it’s not uncommon that gaskets do not resist the stripping process…… If the engine it’s old, spare gaskets can be very hard to find, here below how you can go through this “issue”… First of let’s see what you need: - Gasket material (can be found on the web) - Scissors - Reamer - Good cutters - Patience…. You have to work with your crankcase in hand and use the reamer make the first 2 screws holes than cut away the extra gasket material using scissors. Done! It’s now time to make the back plate hole using a good cutter. Done! Use the reamer to make the other holes. Done! Now put back the back plate and with your cutter, cut away all the extra gasket material. This is a lot easier on engines without pull start (not like the one in pictures – TR-15T one). After a good cutter work you have your gasket, not cosmetically perfect but it works. Done! Now everything is done and the engine it's ready for the rebuilt. Engine rebuilt will be the next step.... Bye WWD

Had no problem with mine's they fits perfect, still have to test the cars on the track though....... Mine's too, will try with some ceramic balls. Bye WWD

O-rings can be easily (i think) found, i have some of them and i'll take the correct size for you. Anyway in the past when i was after them i used standard tamiya shocks O-rings and they seems to do the job. Bye WWD

I'm back again! Let's go on and clean the gummed up engine. Over the years i found that the best products to clean an old nitro engines are Arexons Fulcron (see my cleaning products pic) a strong cleaner degreaser easy to find here in Italy and surprise surprise the baking powder....!!! Go for the "chemical" one not the natural yeast or brewer's yeast! Sometime if the engine it's not too gummed up just the Arexons Fulcron can do the job, this is not the case, muffler in particular....... so after a first fulcron bath i went for the baking powder treatment. The tools.... Have some boiling water and add to the baking powder, SLOOOOOWLY....... you can see why here below..... Add enough water to cover all engine parts and then put ALL the parts you want to clean inside even the liner, piston, crankshaft...... Wait until the water is warm enough to put your hands inside and use the toothbrush on your parts and just look the dirt go away, results are amazing.... In case of very gummed up parts you have to do more than one bath. Don't worry the engine metal won't suffer at all from the baking powder just the nitro..... Here below the result. After the baking powder bath wash everything with water, dry and oil all moving parts with the right oils. That's all for today, next will be how to make gaskets and motor rebuilt. Bye WWD

I don't think you should bend it more if already bent i'd try to clean and service it and test it like it is now. I think that considering that you should not run it a lot it should last a lot. You are welcome! Bye WWD

Hi, welcome to the TC forum and thanks for your post. I decided to leave the bronze bearing since i'll never use this car much and the diff will not suffer big stress and also becuase i was after bearings and i was in a hurry to close the diff.......... It's not a bummer but it's a good move in particular on a car that is used a lot. Thanks again and hope you will show us you Dyna Blaster finished. Bye WWD

Here below an old picture of one of my SRBs (Super Champ) before resto but you can see the front arms with tie straps. Probably shodog it's the biggest expert about these parts and will be able to give you more precise information. About the front arm that is cracked if you want to find a spare you have to start looking on the "Bay" waiting for someone that sell some or ask here on TC, i don't know any other way to find them. I think that a good clean and some new ball diff grease will do the job with your nice Thorp diff, you can decide to replace the balls if they are worn but not much more is needed. I never saw a comparison between the vintage Thorpe and the new Tamiya Ball diff, what i remember of the vintage one is that it came loose very easily and it needed frequent adjustments. The solution was to slightly bend the diff screw, if i remember correctly, but i can be wrong so it's better to wait some expert (shodog again....?) advice on this. Bye WWD

Nice car and resto (mine is waiting for a good body to be finished....). Anyway, nylon arms were made by RCH and MIP (not 100% sure about MIP). YES use them they works wonder! Seems incredible but the small black ball end cups are inserted at the end of the arms and with the o-ring holds everything together, spares sometime appears on the "Bay", not a cheap buy....... To better hold the arms you have to "fix" them using small tie straps through the holes they have on them. Not much, but this is what i know since i have them on 3 of my SRBs....... Hope this help. WWD

Ok it' time to start to look at the heart of the car the engine....... The car has an FS-15 (2,5cc) nitro engine made by TOKI, with rotary carb, side exaust and pull start, very simple and easy to work on. Let's see how it arrived to me....... This will be "fun" to clean......... Dust, dirt and burnt nitro. It's time to start the strip process. Half way.... Engine finally open.... Totally stripped down. The Strip down went through well and without problems due to nitro gum up, also the piston liner came out very easily, a rare event on old nitro engines. As you can see it needs a very good clean both outside and inside and suffered some oxidation in particular on the head. Bad points during strip down: 1) Back plate gasket gone...... (i'll make another one) 2) Piston pin has to be replaced (got the spare, pics soon...) Stay tuned for the "How to clean a nitro engine" tutorial..... Bye WWD

'82/83 Wild Willy '84/85 '86/87 '88/89 '90/91 Bye WWD