wildwillydriver

Thanks a lot for your post, but please don't ask me an electric conversion on it.......... If you want to see something very similar and electric you have just to go for a Dyna Blaster. Yes you are right, but generally what you say happens if the engine is old and not well mantained (gaskets, o-rings, seals....), on well mantained nitro cars i can have "clean" runs..... I'll try to rebuilt this engine at best and we will see what happens at firts start up....... Following this topic you will know..... Bye WWD

Here you can find some valid info. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=61017 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=61038 Hope this help. WWD

Now is time to have the front end back on the chassis with the steering system. Ok! Chassis is now back again ready for the radio and motor. Ando also the Radio mechanism deck is done! It's now engine time with a total strip clean and rebuilt. This will be a tuff work considering engine condition............. Stay tuned for the engine resto. Bye WWD

I only have info about Kyosho motors and i'm happy to help with them. KYOSHO MOTORS 240WS = 18 turns with 0.65mm wire and ball bearings 240S = 19 turns with 0.90mm wire and ball bearings 240ST = 22 turns with 0.80mm wire and bronze bushings 240SB = 19 turns with 0.65mm wire and ball bearings 360PT = 19 turns with 0.90mm wire and ball bearings 360ST = 22 turns with 0.85mm wire and bronze bushings 360G = 18 turns with 0.65mm wire and ball bearings 480WT = 24 turns with 0.40mm wire and ball bearings 480S = 24 turns with 0.80mm wire and ball bearings 480T = 26 turns with 0.75mm wire and ball bearings 480G = 25 turns with 0.40mm wire and ball bearings All but the "ST" motors have adjustable timing. Bye WWD

Yes sure, my Dyna it's still with me! It took so much effort and money that i think i'll never sell it........ You got mail mate! Bye WWD

I generally go for: - Futaba MC231CR ESC (also MC230CR): For down to 20T motors - Futaba MC331CR ESC (also MC330CR): For down to 13T motors They are very good to bash around, very easy to set, very smooth, and reliable. Bye WWD

Some update about the restoration. Starting to assemble the clean chassis back, it start to look nice. C-Hubs back again with Bostik on bearings! Back on chassis And it's now time to take care of shocks, always have some Asso Green Slime in your hand before you start working on shocks..... Decided to go with stock Tamiya oil instead of Losi or Team Associated oils i use on race cars, a litte too soft but ok for the use. C U Soon! WWD

Thx mate! Always nice to hear from you. Yes i think you really know that gearbox...... Bye WWD

Nice towers!! I'm starting to be sad to have retired my Dyna Storm........ Bye WWD

It time for an important part of the car the Ball Diff...... The TR-15T has the same Diff as the Dyna Storm, simple but effective. Before rebuilt it's very important to properly prepare all parts clean and totally degreased (done!) and diff plates wet sanded (see picture below). Then check to have all the products needed for a good work, quality products will give you a problem free ball diff, here below what i used for it: - RCLazy 3mm Ceramic balls (top quality) - Asso Diff Lube the perfect stuff to use between pressure disks and diff plates - Schumacher Silicone Diff Lube, fantastic for balls and diff plates (balls side) - Asso Black Grease the only one for trust bearings - Sand paper Ready to be assembled. Done and silky smoooooooth........! We are now ready to close the transmission; as before i used the Bostik trick to eliminate bearings play, another one to fix "loose" screws when they "work" in plastic, like the one that close the transmission. On gears i used some Tamiya Ceramic Grease, it works very well on plastic gears. To fix loose screw use a toothpick with a drop of Cyano glue and put it inside the screw halve turning around the toothpick do this a couple of time wait for the cyano to be dry and then you will be able to close again your screw tight. Trasmission is done! Now is time to assemble all the chassis. To be continued......

Not much time in the past days but a little bit more was done. Radio tray stripped and cleaned Then my attention to the clutch that was in bad and gummed up condition with also some rust on plates. A good clean, degrease and wet sanding on all plates even the "fiber" ones gave a very good result or at least enough for the TR. Wet sanding the clutch plates it's a good trick to have the Tamiya MDC clutch works perfect and i used it a lot on my Dyna Storm racer, if i needed it in perfect conditions i had to wet sand also between morning and afternoon races or before finals, it depends on track and weather conditions. Last but not least another little trick to eliminate any kind of play on bearing housings, after a good degrease use a little of Bostik (don't know if it has the same name all over the world...) on a toothpick around the bearing housing wait some seconds and put the bearing back, this has to be done also on the shafts that works inside bearings and you can say good bye to any kind of play. Works great also on vintage transmissions like the Sand Scorcher ones. Don't worry it's very easy to remove....... Clutch rebuilt and ready to be assembled back on the car. That's all for today, next will be Ball Diff rebuilt. Bye WWD

It depends on were and how you intend to use your Sand Viper. If you are looking for high performance race tyres i think you will not find anything, you have to do them on your own, j-Concepts has right now announced a line of pre glued 1/10 buggy t&w sets but they will be dedicated to Team AE, Losi or TRF cars only. If you need a race combination just buy some good Tamiya Wheels (Tamiya Part #51205, 51206, 53086, 53881...) and then look for Pro-line, Losi, J-Concepts, Shumacher........ 1/10 buggy Tyres combinations to glue on them. If you need just a set for bashing you have some options in addition to the Carson already pointed out to you for exemple: http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-road-whee...wi-p-28380.html They were available in White, Black, and Chrome, and have a killer look on the car. It's some time that i don't see tham up for sale so you have to ask if they are still available. Tyres are a little on the "hard" side but ok for a basher.... You can also look for pre assembled Tamiya ones like the original ones. Hope this help a little. Bye WWD

Hi, have you considered the "Lazy Go Waterproofing Agent", even if it's intended for electronics (and works!) i think can help you. You can search for it in the rclazy site. Bye WWD

I PM U! Bye WWD

Hi, look on the "bay" or Internet for "8 x AA Long Battery Holder" and you should be ok! Bye WWD

Had not much time for the TR but the work is in progess...... Front end stripped and cleaned + Rear end screw and pins cleaned Gas Tank and fuel filter cleaned and degreased Front steering stripped cleaned and ready to receive ball bearings (4 x 850) instead of bronze ones. Front Bumber and bits I'm now very near to rebuilt, i just have to strip and clean the radio lid.....

Try with TA04 Ball Diff plates part # 50880 they seems to have the same measures and are cheap and easy to find. Not 100% sure but..... Bye. WWD

Hi, Thanks a lot for your post and spares offers, i'm sure we will deal a little in next weeks....... A little update about the resto, very little time to dedicate in these days..... Chassis rear arms and roll bar are now clean and ready to be assembled. Diff clean and degreased, will be rebuilt soon. Hope to be able to work during the week end. To be continued.....

Hey Mate, hope to see it finished soon! It's a work of art. Bye WWD

A little update. It's time to start the clean of parts........ Sorry for not perfect picture quality but my workbench it's not the best place to take pics..... What i use to do it? Let's start with transmission. Strip down transmission. As you see it's the same as the Dyna Storm one made of a stronger material and with a different shaft. And open the Diff. To be continued.........

Hi All, after years of wait and thanks to a nice TC fellow i'm the happy owner of a TR-15T the first nitro car produced by Tamiya #44001. The car was born as street racing truck and share some parts with the more famous Dyna Storm (transmission, C hubs, and some front end parts). The engine is an FS.15 (2,5 cc) nitro engine with side exaust, rotary carb and pull start. The car arrived with Acoms radio gear, lots of spares, a clear body with a NIB decal sheet and a NIB set of Tires (x4) . Even if is a super rare car and spares are very hard to find my plan is to make it a runner..! I really look forward to the first test run. Considering there is not much history about this car I decided to share my restoration on the forum before adding it to my showroom clean and restored. Hope you will find it interesting. The car is now restored (03/30/2011), you can CLICK HERE to see all the detailed pics in my showroom. The car and spares out of the box. Feb 7 2011 Lets start to strip down the car. Seems that it never had a clean....... Rear End - OMG!! Front Back on the car Finally the end! To be continued..........

Hi, what i know and remember about these motors is that starting from the standard 540 silver can (black endbell) the Black Sprint (Red Endbell) was i little bit faster and came as stock motor on the Can Am Lola and Tornado RM MK3 the Black Endurace (Blue Endbell) was slower than the stock silver can but was used when longer run time was needed due to a little bit lower current drain. I don't know if the Black Endurance came as stock motor in a kit. The Sprint one was a very common hop up motor on old SRB buggies considering his perfect fit without any modification. They are a must have in a vintage motors collection but not a difficult to find item and not worth a lot of money. This is what i know, but i'm not sure to be 100% correct... Hope this help. Bye WWD

I love to run my Vintage cars but i have so much of them that i had to choose wich models have to be used...... At the end i use to run my Ford Ranger, Wild Willy 1 (LWB) and the Clod Buster (one of the best all around runner). Ford in action Wild Willy (After years need "a little" attention on the body.......... ), this picture was taken 15 days ago at the sea. Clod in action

Welcome, nice long post and WW2! We share age and RC love. Bye WWD

Hi, i can help, just sent a PM to you! Bye WWD