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wildwillydriver

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Posts posted by wildwillydriver

  1. Very nice restoration! Did you consider an electric conversion, or would that be blasfemy?

    Thanks for sharing and keep us posted!!!

    Thanks a lot for your post, but please don't ask me an electric conversion on it.......... :P

    If you want to see something very similar and electric you have just to go for a Dyna Blaster. B)

    great work! Nitro models are a nightmare to keep clean! i recall my experiences with them and you could have driven one through an operating theatre and it would still be covered in gunk and grit?! :D

    Yes you are right, but generally what you say happens if the engine is old and not well mantained (gaskets, o-rings, seals....), on well mantained nitro cars i can have "clean" runs.....

    I'll try to rebuilt this engine at best and we will see what happens at firts start up....... :P

    Following this topic you will know..... :D

    Bye

    WWD

    :)

  2. hi , i just bought a battered old frog of good old eblah . with it came a le mans 360pt motor ..i found info on that one no worries , ita a single turn 19t with bearings and replaceble brushes , its also advanceble in both directions .

    the others are yokomo twinturbo 360 gtr and the other is a yokomo twinturbo 360 gti . the gtr is a double wind motor while the gti is a triple wind motor . has any body used these motor or have any info on them ? a search of the web found litttle .

    I only have info about Kyosho motors and i'm happy to help with them.

    KYOSHO MOTORS

    240WS = 18 turns with 0.65mm wire and ball bearings

    240S = 19 turns with 0.90mm wire and ball bearings

    240ST = 22 turns with 0.80mm wire and bronze bushings

    240SB = 19 turns with 0.65mm wire and ball bearings

    360PT = 19 turns with 0.90mm wire and ball bearings

    360ST = 22 turns with 0.85mm wire and bronze bushings

    360G = 18 turns with 0.65mm wire and ball bearings

    480WT = 24 turns with 0.40mm wire and ball bearings

    480S = 24 turns with 0.80mm wire and ball bearings

    480T = 26 turns with 0.75mm wire and ball bearings

    480G = 25 turns with 0.40mm wire and ball bearings

    All but the "ST" motors have adjustable timing.

    Bye

    WWD

    :(

  3. Then start running it again :) You still have it right? Though I am sure you will have lots of fun with your TR-15T too, great resto! Do you perhaps have the manual of it by the way? I can't find it online anywhere, which can be annoying... It's handy for reference, even if you only have a Dyna Storm. So if you have it... could you perhaps make a scan of it? :unsure:

    Yes sure, my Dyna it's still with me! B) It took so much effort and money that i think i'll never sell it........ ;)

    You got mail mate! :)

    Bye

    WWD

    :(

  4. What ESC do you suggest with the bigger engines? To avoid overheating etc. It is right to assume that these ESC's have an automatic cutoff so to speak for low voltage Nimh"s.

    I generally go for:

    - Futaba MC231CR ESC (also MC230CR): For down to 20T motors

    - Futaba MC331CR ESC (also MC330CR): For down to 13T motors

    They are very good to bash around, very easy to set, very smooth, and reliable.

    Bye

    WWD

    :unsure:

  5. Some update about the restoration.

    Starting to assemble the clean chassis back, it start to look nice. B)

    img501_16102013113413_3.jpg

    img501_16102013113413_4.jpg

    C-Hubs back again with Bostik on bearings!

    img501_16102013113413_5.jpg

    Back on chassis

    img501_16102013113413_6.jpg

    And it's now time to take care of shocks, always have some Asso Green Slime in your hand before you start working on shocks.....
    Decided to go with stock Tamiya oil instead of Losi or Team Associated oils i use on race cars, a litte too soft but ok for the use.

    img501_16102013114901_1.jpg

    img501_16102013114901_2.jpg

    C U Soon! B)
    WWD
    :)

  6. It time for an important part of the car the Ball Diff......

    The TR-15T has the same Diff as the Dyna Storm, simple but effective. Before rebuilt it's very important to properly prepare all parts clean and totally degreased (done!) and diff plates wet sanded (see picture below).

    img501_10102013180820_2.jpg


    Then check to have all the products needed for a good work, quality products will give you a problem free ball diff, here below what i used for it:

    - RCLazy 3mm Ceramic balls (top quality)
    - Asso Diff Lube the perfect stuff to use between pressure disks and diff plates
    - Schumacher Silicone Diff Lube, fantastic for balls and diff plates (balls side)
    - Asso Black Grease the only one for trust bearings B)
    - Sand paper

    img501_10102013180820_3.jpg


    Ready to be assembled.

    img501_10102013180820_4.jpg

    Done and silky smoooooooth........! B)

    img501_10102013180820_5.jpg

    We are now ready to close the transmission; as before i used the Bostik trick to eliminate bearings play, another one to fix "loose" screws when they "work" in plastic, like the one that close the transmission. On gears i used some Tamiya Ceramic Grease, it works very well on plastic gears.

    img501_10102013180820_6.jpg

    To fix loose screw use a toothpick with a drop of Cyano glue and put it inside the screw halve turning around the toothpick do this a couple of time wait for the cyano to be dry and then you will be able to close again your screw tight.

    img501_16102013113413_1.jpg

    Trasmission is done!

    img501_16102013113413_2.jpg

    Now is time to assemble all the chassis.

    To be continued......

  7. Not much time in the past days but a little bit more was done.

    Radio tray stripped and cleaned

    img501_10102013175403_3.jpg

    Then my attention to the clutch that was in bad and gummed up condition with also some rust on plates.

    img501_10102013175403_4.jpg

    A good clean, degrease and wet sanding on all plates even the "fiber" ones gave a very good result or at least enough for the TR. Wet sanding the clutch plates it's a good trick to have the Tamiya MDC clutch works perfect and i used it a lot on my Dyna Storm racer, if i needed it in perfect conditions i had to wet sand also between morning and afternoon races or before finals, it depends on track and weather conditions.

    img501_10102013175403_5.jpg

    Last but not least another little trick to eliminate any kind of play on bearing housings, after a good degrease use a little of Bostik (don't know if it has the same name all over the world...) on a toothpick around the bearing housing wait some seconds and put the bearing back, this has to be done also on the shafts that works inside bearings and you can say good bye to any kind of play. Works great also on vintage transmissions like the Sand Scorcher ones. Don't worry it's very easy to remove....... B)

    img501_10102013175403_6.jpg

    Clutch rebuilt and ready to be assembled back on the car.

    img501_10102013180820_1.jpg

    That's all for today, next will be Ball Diff rebuilt.

    Bye
    WWD

  8. It depends on were and how you intend to use your Sand Viper.

    If you are looking for high performance race tyres i think you will not find anything, you have to do them on your own, j-Concepts has right now announced a line of pre glued 1/10 buggy t&w sets but they will be dedicated to Team AE, Losi or TRF cars only.

    If you need a race combination just buy some good Tamiya Wheels (Tamiya Part #51205, 51206, 53086, 53881...) and then look for Pro-line, Losi, J-Concepts, Shumacher........ 1/10 buggy Tyres combinations to glue on them.

    If you need just a set for bashing you have some options in addition to the Carson already pointed out to you for exemple:

    http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-road-whee...wi-p-28380.html

    They were available in White, Black, and Chrome, and have a killer look on the car. It's some time that i don't see tham up for sale so you have to ask if they are still available. Tyres are a little on the "hard" side but ok for a basher....

    You can also look for pre assembled Tamiya ones like the original ones.

    Hope this help a little.

    Bye

    WWD

    :)

  9. Hi All, B)

    after years of wait and thanks to a nice TC fellow i'm the happy owner of a TR-15T the first nitro car produced by Tamiya #44001. The car was born as street racing truck and share some parts with the more famous Dyna Storm (transmission, C hubs, and some front end parts). The engine is an FS.15 (2,5 cc) nitro engine with side exaust, rotary carb and pull start.
    The car arrived with Acoms radio gear, lots of spares, a clear body with a NIB decal sheet and a NIB set of Tires (x4) .
    Even if is a super rare car and spares are very hard to find my plan is to make it a runner..!
    I really look forward to the first test run.
    Considering there is not much history about this car I decided to share my restoration on the forum before adding it to my showroom clean and restored.

    Hope you will find it interesting.

    The car is now restored (03/30/2011), you can CLICK HERE to see all the detailed pics in my showroom.

    The car and spares out of the box.

    carwb.jpg

    carnobody.jpg



    Feb 7 2011
    Lets start to strip down the car. Seems that it never had a clean....... :o

    img501_10102013145052_3.jpg


    Rear End - OMG!! :blink:

    img501_10102013145052_4.jpg

    img501_10102013145052_5.jpg

    img501_10102013145052_6.jpg

    Front

    img501_10102013150458_1.jpg

    img501_10102013150458_2.jpg

    Back on the car

    img501_10102013150403_3.jpg

    img501_10102013150403_4.jpg

    img501_10102013150403_5.jpg

    img501_10102013150403_6.jpg

    Finally the end! B)

    img501_10102013150458_3.jpg

    To be continued.......... B)

  10. Hi,

    what i know and remember about these motors is that starting from the standard 540 silver can (black endbell) the Black Sprint (Red Endbell) was i little bit faster and came as stock motor on the Can Am Lola and Tornado RM MK3 the Black Endurace (Blue Endbell) was slower than the stock silver can but was used when longer run time was needed due to a little bit lower current drain. I don't know if the Black Endurance came as stock motor in a kit.

    The Sprint one was a very common hop up motor on old SRB buggies considering his perfect fit without any modification.

    They are a must have in a vintage motors collection but not a difficult to find item and not worth a lot of money.

    This is what i know, but i'm not sure to be 100% correct...

    Hope this help.

    Bye

    WWD

    :rolleyes:

  11. :) I love to run my Vintage cars but i have so much of them that i had to choose wich models have to be used...... :lol:

    At the end i use to run my Ford Ranger, Wild Willy 1 (LWB) and the Clod Buster (one of the best all around runner).

    Ford in action

    b4pha242h5.jpg

    Wild Willy (After years need "a little" attention on the body.......... :) ), this picture was taken 15 days ago at the sea.

    qkd12w1ii0.jpg

    Clod in action

    677ps3rpw3.jpg

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