James4ihl
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Posts posted by James4ihl
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Hi All,
Nearly finished the build now (had to go away on business, so it got badly delayed!). Everything is great except I can't figure out where the badword you're supposed to put the receiver batteries on this thing. I have a standard Acoms receiver and steering servo and it has that 4 x AA battery holder - where does that fit? Or am I just being dumb about this? Does it draw power from the main battery somehow?
Cheers,
James
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I've tightened the diff as instructed, I'm feeling an uneveness when turning the shafts opposite ways, loose-tight-loose-tight type of thing. Its not severe but is there. Is this normal at this stage, does the diff need to bed-in, or does something need adjusting? Its still relatively easy to get back into because I haven't done the rest of the build...
James
This could be the tamiya one-piece thrust bearing.. I've had this with a few tamiya diffs.. seems it doesn't stand up to being tightened too much? just what I think.
This begs the question is there a better/more durable part available that doesn't tend to squash on tightening?
James
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I've tightened the diff as instructed, I'm feeling an uneveness when turning the shafts opposite ways, loose-tight-loose-tight type of thing. Its not severe but is there. Is this normal at this stage, does the diff need to bed-in, or does something need adjusting? Its still relatively easy to get back into because I haven't done the rest of the build...
James
This could be the tamiya one-piece thrust bearing.. I've had this with a few tamiya diffs.. seems it doesn't stand up to being tightened too much? just what I think.
Which part is the 'one piece thrust bearing'?
James
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Thanks for the explanation - in that case, a slip clutch sounds like an excellent idea. Ordered my parts from RC Champ today, can't wait to get the DI on the road. BTW, thought some of you might be interested in this:
http://craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/clear%20w...ip%20decals.htm
Transparent decal sheets you can print yourself from a UK supplier. They also have white decal sheets, and both for laser printers as well as inkjet (if you use inkjet you seal the decals with Acrylic spray after printing to seal them). I've ordered a set, so I'll let you know how they are when they arrive and I do some design printing!
James
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How do you get such precise paint fades on the bodywork? It looks really good!
Forgive my ignorance, but what is a slipper clutch?
James
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BTW, DCM, that Dark Impact looks fantastic!
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Thanks for that recommendation for RC-champ! None of the UK suppliers could get any of the parts I needed. They can, they're a good price even including shipping and they have them in stock - excellent service!
James
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Many thanks Gary, I'll send them an email today.
James
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Update on the diff problem for those interested:
On exchanging parts with the front diff it turns out that there is something wrong with the rear diff housing plates, diff plates, or diff joints. Its very odd because they seem totally flat and I've checked them with straight edges, etc. The weirder thing is that in the course of troubleshooting, I swapped in each of the front diff joint/plates in turn - now, if I swap in either one of the front diff joints it runs smooth. The front diff also runs smooth with either rear part substituted, but not both (work that one out if you can!).
Anyway, during the course of substituting, I realised that the front diff joints actually fit the rear joint perfectly and also the housing perfectly. The front diff joints are all metal, built to higher tolerances, will conduct heat away from the rear diff and you can still replace the diff plates if they get worn (more easily in fact, since you don't have to glue them on). So since I have to replace the rear diff parts anyway, I'm just going to order front diff joints and some diff plates to go in the rear.
However, I have a problem in that I can't see any of the spares listed yet in any of the UK stores that I know about (apart from the actual diff plates, which are TA04 parts). So none of the front/rear diff housings or joints are available yet as far as I can see! Is this true, or do I just not know where to look? If anyone knows where I can get spares for the DI at the moment, could you please let me know?
Part no is:
9808059 Front diff joint L&R (MJ1 & MJ2)
Cheers
James
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I'm a bit mystified. They look completely flat - they're certianly glued flat, there isn't even the smallest of gaps between that and the shafts that I can see with the naked eye. I've completely stripped and rebuilt it all, but can't find anything obviously wrong, or out of alignment, but the problem is still there.
Unless anyone has any other ideas, I'd have to assume its a faulty bearing somewhere that just isn't running smooth, or something of that nature. I'll have to phone up the supplier where I bought it and see what they do in these situations.
Thanks for all your help on this!
James
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I've taken it apart, the plates look dead flat to the eye. I can't really get them off to reset them as they're superglued on! Could anything else be causing this - did I over tighten and flatten the ball bearings (doesn't feel like it, its a bit too regular for that, which is why I agree wonky plates would be a better bet...)?
Can I get a spare diff yet in the UK, in the worst case scenario that it's faulty?
Cheers
James
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I've tightened the diff as instructed, I'm feeling an uneveness when turning the shafts opposite ways, loose-tight-loose-tight type of thing. Its not severe but is there. Is this normal at this stage, does the diff need to bed-in, or does something need adjusting? Its still relatively easy to get back into because I haven't done the rest of the build...
James
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Thanks I've just done that. I actually had it a little overtight before, but only a turn or so.
Do those Kyosho shocks work well? Did you have to modify anything to fit them?
James
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Thanks DC - excellent instructions, I particularly appreciate the shocks advice before getting to that part!
James
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Battery performance sounds good from that one!
Nice looking DI, which shocks are you using?
James
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How much should one tighten the diffs? The instruction manual says, tight enough not to come apart, but not too tight. It's about 15 years since I've built one of these, so 'feel' is gone. Do I need to at least tighten through the plastic threadlock on the end of the nut, or just until it starts to feel too tight for the diff to turn easily and then back off a little?
James
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Thanks excellent!
James
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Just started the build and come across a hitch on page one - says I need Tamiya Instant Cement to glue part of the rear diff assembly. I don't have any because all the local suppliers are out, but it looks like its saying it's cyanoacrylate (superglue) - anyone know whether that stuff is just normal superglue, because I have some of that lying around, whereas I don't have any access to Tamiya Instant Cement and I'd like to know if I can use generic instant glue before I melt the plastic or anything nasty!
While we're on the subject, which is the preferred glue for sticking tyres to rims? Anything that allows a bond, but also allows you to get the tyres off in the future if you want to?
Ta
James
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Thanks - a shop near me has a set in which I'll pick up. In the end, a sale price decided my choice of speed controller, as the local model shop had a one off acoms at-8 at £30, which seemed too good to pass up. If I find myself getting more back into this for racing, I'll upgrade and the old Frog can have the at-8!
James
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Thanks for those recommendations - sounds like the Novak is getting a big thumbs up, I'll give it a go!
Does anyone know whether the tires will fit the DF02 gravel hound wheels, and indeed whether those wheels will fit on the DI?
Cheers,
James
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Help! Ive received my DI kit today, and found that (contrary to what my supplier told me) it doesnt include an electronic speed controller included. I have an Acoms AP202 transmitter receiver servo system I was advised to buy with the car - what is the best ESC to go with it? Should I get the Tamiya TEU101BK, or the Acoms AT-8, or what?
Whats the best one to use with that combo, or should I have got a different transmitter and receiver combo too? Sorry may seem like dumb questions but remember I am just getting back into this after about an 18 year break so I am a bit green on these things right now! Any advice appreciated!
Cheers,
James
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Thanks guys, I'm going to check out a variety of wheels once I have the DI in front of me so I can gauge the size/ effect...
James
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Looks great! What wheels/tyres are those?
James
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Thanks for the wheels/shocks info. I looked at some Kyosho wheels today, but they look rather large. I'm going to wait until the dark impact arrives, then I can see how big these are relative to the car itself!
Is there a good RC retailer in London these days? I'm going up on Tuesday, all the ones I knew when I was younger (Beatties, etc.) all seem to be gone as far as I can tell... I could look at some wheels, and maybe also get some good decals (I'm going for a Mclaren Mercedes F1 style paint job, and need some matching decals...).
Cheers,
James

The Dark Impact
in General discussions
Posted
Ah, yes, I see how it works. Sorry, last time I was building/running these things the receiver and servos were powered off the 4 x AA adapter.
Thanks!
James