3speeder
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Posts posted by 3speeder
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I searched for this a while ago but just ran across a picture of the Tamiya 30th Anniversary poster and I wanted to know if there is a way to buy one. I contacted TamiyaUSA and they said that the poster was only available in Japan. Anyone have a source for these?
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Body is finished and mounted, the rear body post are a little lower than the marks on the body otherwise the body fits nice.
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Finally received everything, body looks to be a perfect fit. I'm in the process of tear down and rebuild, I'll post pictures when the body is mounted.
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Still waiting for parts to show up but I was thinking about a scale interior for this. Does anyone know if this interior will fit, http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-10-RALLY-COCKPIT-ESCORT-COSWORTH-RALLY-TAMIYA-TOURING-INTERIOR-DRIVER-58112-/151012465633?hash=item23290b5be1:m:mIKa7T6FD6KftgrSHPr6Bkg
I tried searching but didn't find anything.
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I remember selling a Kyosho Raider and using the money to buy one of these when they first hit the U.S. in 1992. In my opinion, it and the Bush Devil are the best of the Blackfoot/Blackfeet line. Incredibly tough and still kept the look of the original-yet wider front suspension and body (minus Ford logos). I imagine the King Blackfoot was also good but never ran one. Of all the kits I've built and sold over the years, this is one I truly regret getting rid of. I'd rather see it get a rerelease than the original Blackfoot, since all the parts are there from the Frog, M.B, and Brat to make one.
I agree, I had a few blackfoots back in the day and always had issues with the rear half shafts. I was looking for an original blackfoot a few years ago and found one on craigslist. I talked to the guy and he told me that it was an original and in good shape. We meet up and I instantly noticed the different wheels and rear end but it had an original blackfoot body on it (Ford logos). I bought it anyway because it was like new and came with everything. I was a little disappointed at the time because it wasn't an original but after running it and seeing how great it worked compared to an original I couldn't be happier.
I've thought about putting a brat body on it and making it a mud blaster, part of the reason I wanted to run original wheels.
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Yeah, the piece you are referring to is called a "hub"... The Super BF uses a 12mm hex hub while the BF (and Frog) uses the traditional 5-point star hub... However, the axle uses a pin to secure the hub so AFAIK, you can interchange the hubs and drive either kind of wheel... At least I think so...
Terry
I think I tried using the traditional 5-point hub on my super blackfoot but the axle wasn't long enough to fit the wheel. It seems the re release frog ones are longer, allowing the 5 point hub to be used.
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I thought drive cup was referring to the plastic piece that attached to the shaft and grabs the back side of the wheel. I misunderstood, so the frog re release drive cup pictured above is longer than then super blackfoot/frog/brat.... I didn't know that.
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I wanted to fit blackfoot wheels to my super blackfoot, do you have a picture of the re re frog drive cups? Are they the same cups as a grasshopper/hornet cups?
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I measured the wheelbase last night and it looks like 252mm or 253mm. I ordered the body, tires, sport tuned motor and parts I need to repair it last night. I'll post a picture when I get the body with it sitting on the chassis.
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thanks for the replies, I did some more searching and what I found was the wheelbase would be off by 1mm. Its hard to tell because of conflicting info on width and wheel base of the prerunner ta02/ta01 and the 240Z rally body, I think I might order the body and try it.
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My brother just gave me his old ta02 truck, it a toyota prerunner (s10/f150) and it is missing the body, wheels and tires and has a broken gear box. I have the hummer wheels and wanted to know if the datsun 240z rally body is the right wheel base for the ta02 i have.
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I only have the "fast" gearing for it, if its too much I can swap it with my original rough rider which has the "low" gearing. I just finished making the radio box screws, the ones that hold the top down. I just need to get the esc and a few misc items and it will be ready to run. I also want to try and build the box art front bumper, I just need to get some aluminum and setup the tig.
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Pic as it sits
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So i decided to paint up a re release body in red and yellow to put on my sand scorcher. I pulled the chassis apart and cleaned everything, added bearings and assembled. I'm looking at electronics for this and may just buy a xl-5 and run a 2s 4000 mah lipo with the stock motor. Is that to much for this? Just looking for fun and run times.
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I just bought a sand scorcher at a recent swap meet. Almost complete original car came with a bunch of extras, wheels, suspension, gears etc. The body is in good shape but is missing everything but the window, the rear license plate cover, nose cone and rear body mount. The chassis is in good shape but is missing the front bumper, speed controller, steering linkage from the servo, and two of the servo case locks.
How hard is it to find the missing body parts and or what fits from the re release?
I'm not sure if I should try and restore it, or restore/modify it for some light back yard running or shelf it just the way it is. I'll post pics later today.
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nice builds, I've been thinking of building a MK1 Golf and making it RC. I love the kamei golf, there is some good reading on the VW forums about the history of that car.
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Looking for info on this kit, I have a chance to buy one new in box. Model number 3176, the kit looks complete and its a cool looking NIB for my collection. Anyone have any info on this kit? I don't want to over pay.
Tim
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What Chicago burbs are you fellas in?
Lemont
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Burbs of Chicago, anyone ever do any vintage racing/running? I would love to see a few vintage tamiyas running around.
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Brasso works well.
I've bought a tin of Tamiya Metalic red to do an old mud blaster body I'd stripped the old paint off, Will it be enough, for just a covering coat? nothing fastic wanted, its just a basher I made up from old parts i collected on an old frog chassis.
I think one can should do it, warm it up in warm water first, this make a huge difference.
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+1. Even a poor paint job can be saved with rubbing compound and wax .
Thanks guys, I think it turned out good. Any special rubbing compound you recommend?
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I bought one more can of mica red and this time I warmed it up first, what a huge difference this made. I gave the cab two more coats and the bad three more coats. On the last coat for both I was able to build up a gloss with the paint. It looked great but when the paint dried it was a little dull. Overall I'm happy with the final result. I've had this body apart for about 5-6 years trying to find time to paint it. I will detail it this winter when I get time again. Now I need to try and get my two hilux bodies, blazing blazer body and one more bruiser body in paint.
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you have to decide what finish you want - glossy smooth or not... there is no room for half-measures once cleared.
imho the Mica colours usually don't dry glossy, there's a rougher orangepeel finish
also if you've painted in a cold environment it'll come out more matte
looks like you've got a few splatter lumps? albeit small... if you don't flat these down, will be more noticeable once glossy
I started to wet sand the bed last night with 1000 grit sand paper. It seems like there was not enough paint on the bed. I going to pick up another can on mica red and give the bed and cab two more coats.
This will probably be the last body I use tamiya paints on, the paint is to thin, coasts to much money and you need several cans to just to get a few coats on there. My hilux and blazing blazer will get automotive paint.
30th Anniversary Poster
in General discussions
Posted
Thanks Mokei PM sent!