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3speeder

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Posts posted by 3speeder

  1. You can clear coat over it without wet sanding first, but be aware that it will only conform to the surface it is painted onto, so the final product will always have the same texture as the base coat underneath.

    Also, if you decide to wet sand, be very careful not to sand through your base coat on corners and sharper edges. This can be very easy to do if you don't have a very thick base coat laid down to begin with.

    I don't want to wet sand and burn throught the paint. The paint is very smooth but just dull from painting several light coats, I never did one heavy coat to build up a shine. I might pick up a can of tamiya clear and put a few coats on and see how it looks.

  2. Finally had time to get this in paint. I used duplicolor white sandable primer and two cans of TS-39 mica red. It turned out good, I did several light coats of the mica red. The mica red over the white primer doesn't look as dark as I thought, almost looks like the box art color.

    I'm going to let all the parts sit for a week or two before I do anything else. I'm thinking about a few coats of clear but I'm a little nervous to clear anything after getting the body to this point. Last time I tried to clear something the paint wrinkled. If I use tamiya clear over the tamiya mica red is there a chance it will wrinkle?

  3. I'm looking for a template for the two metal brackets that connect the rear wing to the main wing on the blazing blazer. Mine are missing and I want to make something close, I can image what they would look like but does someone have a template that I can print out? Are the flat? How long are they? Any help?

    Tim

  4. I have an original mountaineer body that I'm getting ready to re-paint again because the first time it wrinkled. I must have used enamels with laquers or something. Anyway, I what to paint this tamiya body using mica red TS-39.

    Can I use duplicolor sandable primer - then tamiya TS-39 - then duplicolor T125 clear?

    I think the tamiya TS paints are laquer, and the duplicolor primers and clears laquer based too?

    I have tried searching on here and google but can not find anyone that can give me a positive yes that it will work, can someone provide some feedback or show some step by step to get those beautiful finishes.

    It's taking me so much work to get this body back to a point where its almost ready for paint, infact its been apart for abour 3-4 years waiting to get finished. My plan is to finish my mountaineer, hilux, blazing blazer and my extra bruiser body this spring so they are done and ready to sit on the shelf and collect dust.

    Tim

  5. I am running the Novak 11t pinion in a Blazer with no issues, gearbox is nice and smooth with no excess wear to the spur.

    I have spacers fitted on each screw behind the motor which move it out from the transmission by around 2mm which is just enough to keep the grub screw from catching. I used this method in preference to grinding down the screw / edge of spur gear in case I got a proper pinion in future and to make changing the motor easier.

    Was in exactly the same situation about 6 months ago with my Blazer even though it was sold as RTR!

    Thanks I will give it a try, my lhs has one so I will try it tonight.

  6. I need a pinion gear for the hilux I'm building, I know they are hard to get and they only came with the hilux and BB. There seems to be a lot of post on the subject but not answers as to what will really work. Has anyone actually used one of these pinions below in there hilux/BB?

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXUFE3&P=7

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI00...5&search=Go

    I understand that the screw needs to be ground down or space the motor back so the screw doesn't rub the spur gear, this is a runner with some modifications so original doesn't matter.

    Thanks

  7. "- Of-course I feel for the people of Japan (who wouldn't), but I thought this was a Tamiya website, not Facebook ..." haha nice

    When I first read your post I understood what you meant, in all honesty I was curious too and of course everyone feels for the people of Japan what kind of person would you be if you didn't?

  8. I have a slightly modified bruiser for a runner, the rest of my three speeds are shelf queens, I have a mudblaster and blackfoot shelf queen and a super blackfoot for a runner, I have a restored clod shelf queen and a lightly modified clod as a runner. I have more shelf queens but the bruiser, super blackfoot and clod runners are ones that I actually like to run, the rest are just fun to restore and look at. I like a lot of the vintage stuff, but there are few that I had when I was a kid and few that I always wanted when I was a kid. Every R/C I own I have driven, the shelf queens get driven before I restore them. The runners are disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled with bearings and a few updates to make them better runners.

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