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About Tamiya_addict

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  • Birthday 06/22/1908

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    Melbourne, Australia

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  1. I personally believe it's just part of the circle of life and it varies by user. I was in the hospital yesterday waiting to have some scans done (MTB stack) but am a fairly fit person in my mid forties. I looked around at all the elderly people waiting to be attended to. They're slow, can't do stuff as they're just old or in poor health, and to be honest it's not a great place to be in life, but most of us end up there. It takes so much effort to get out of a chair or bed... and hobbies are a bit the same for me now. Throw in a bit of cognitive dissonance (guilt: hobby time vs family time vs is this the best use of my time?) and the interest wanes. The childhood dopamine rush is absent, and given R/C has pretty much been the same tech for the last 30 years (albeit with some innovation), I no longer build kits or immerse myself in the hobby. I run my own business (hobby industry) and get more of a kick out of serving customers and the associated product engineering. But I cherish the memories of those 1980s R/Cs. The memories remain.
  2. Sad to part with such a beast, but the time comes. A great looker and a one off. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tamiya-Grave-Di...=item2c604b019d
  3. Cheers Twisty - yes they need to be sealed. Thanks for the link - I so often fail to Google, when I should.
  4. Not sure if anyone has experience applying Tamiya's various weathering powders on styrene bodies/static models. Do these need to be overcoated with a clear coat, or are they self setting? I've heard if they are overcoated straight away with Dullcote, the powders can gum up and create a mess. The Tamiya packaging at my LHS provides no English instructions for use, and the shop hadn't a clue . Thanks - Mike
  5. I noticed the new body of M03 Fiat kit is a cream colour, but the models on Tamiyausa.com seem to be white. Any owners know what the suggested PS colour is in the manual? I would like a cream for my VW! Mike
  6. Looking good BTMR. You may want to consider using velcro as a body mount option on the back end. I used it with my Clod and the grip is quite tenacious. Plus it is not visible. Those shocks look great, I enjoyed building mine and found G-Made's quality is up there with that of Tamiya. From pic 4 above, the body seems to be too far forward by say 1/2", or maybe it's just the angle of the photo. Cheers, Mike
  7. I have a sidewinder 4600 in my Losi Desert truck and on loose gravel (quartz), the tyres have no traction - it's not the slipper or too much power, it's just the complete lack of tyre grip. 4WD is so much better when it comes to speed, so that is why I've been looking at a Savage X 4.6 SS. I'm just not quite hooked on the dirty nitro stuff yet! But electric is too boring for me now. My golden rule for buying a runner is buy the most popular, and the one with the most number of spares available, such as HPI or Traxxas. Losi parts are available, but so many more people now run HPI (Savage) and Traxxas trucks that spares are much more accessible. Ebay or Losi (Horizon online) seems to have plenty of spares for the Desert truck. Losi's advanatge at present is their cheap (but good) DSM equipped radios and digi servos. If you are running on grass, don't buy a truck with 1.9" wheels - it will burn the electrics out. Even a High Roller may not do so well. This is where a bigger truck, such as the Savage Flux or E-Maxx will do much better. Bang for buck the E-Savage is good value, but does not share parts with the latest Savage X line. Go search some other forums to learn which non-Tamiya trucks are popular Mike
  8. Yes great shots in the top 3 and the rest of the comp. Bring on the next one!!! Water has an expansion rate of about 10% as ice, so I wonder if that Super Champ driver has a headache! Mike
  9. Oooooooh I do like the new HPI Savage Flux HP (brushless). Sorry, not Tamiya but it can do 100kph with enough juice... http://www.hpiracing.com/videoplayer/46/ You could kill someone with that! Mike
  10. Normally I use a hair dryer to permanently set my decals once on the body and to drive down any stubborn edges. Some major stretching needs to happen with the Gravedigger flame decals - to the point where the film thickness almost becomes 0mm! I'll give it a shot!
  11. I thought I was okay at applying decals on curved bodies, but now I'm not so sure! The front end flame decals are mightly difficult apply. Without slitting the decal, it must be stretched quite a bit to conform to the shape of the front fenders. Has anybody successfully applied these decals and can offer tips?? Mike
  12. Well here is my Chev grille I collected from Metallising Australia recently. The grille was pretty clean to begin with, with only two spots with the chromed lightly scratched or worn from the packaging it had been in for 21 years. So after a re-chroming or more correctly a deposition of vapourised aluminium, which is more reflective than chrome, it came up a million dollars. After having many parts done by the company, and going through some early teething issues, I'm satisfied and I'm a perfectionistic (which is not a good trait in life youngens). Specifically, the quality of the plastic to be coated and the surface finish pre-process, really defines the likelyhood of a positive outcome. So Corpse Thrower, consider using them again. Cheers Mike
  13. Would a moderator please comment on why my comp entry has been removed?
  14. I had a Wild Dagger (same truck as TD) with two BZs. It was pretty quick and I bashed it hard, and eventually wore it out. These trucks are tough. When I ran 2WD in the truck it was just too slow, as the power on understeer was too great. 4WD made a huge difference. I am currently fitting a Sidewinder 4600kV setup to my Losi Desert Truck. As the Sidewinder puts out only 2/3 the power of a Mamba Max, this should help the life of your truck. Monitor your motor temp and get your pinion size correct (18T?), but I'd imagine the spur will chew up quickly as it is plastic. Not a great issue, as you will have a front gearbox at the waiting!!
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