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Tamiya_addict

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About Tamiya_addict

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  • Birthday 06/22/1908

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    Melbourne, Australia

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  1. I run two Prusa filament printers daily for my own business (model railway parts) and after two years have never had an issue. I use esun PLA+ filament which is stronger and stiffer than the Prusa filament in my experience. It also bonds better to the printing plate so the part doesn't debond during printing. Strength wise, the PLA material is going to be quite strong and tough, certainly not as good as ABS for R/C use, but you can also buy ABS filament and print with that. If a part breaks, print another! For parts to be seen and painted, like interior parts, a finer nozzle (0.2mm over default 0.4mm) may be required or a resin printer. The Prusa filament Mk3S printers cost me about 5 times more than an Ender Pro but in my opinion it was worth it (just, lol). I'm not a tinkerer with 3D printers as I don't have the time or interest. I need them to be set and forget (with periodic preventative maintenance of course) and I've found the Prusa printers to be reliable and available. As a side note, I built a full air tight enclosure with an exhaust system for the printers as printing is known to give off ultra fines and VOCs, so best to look out for your health.
  2. I personally believe it's just part of the circle of life and it varies by user. I was in the hospital yesterday waiting to have some scans done (MTB stack) but am a fairly fit person in my mid forties. I looked around at all the elderly people waiting to be attended to. They're slow, can't do stuff as they're just old or in poor health, and to be honest it's not a great place to be in life, but most of us end up there. It takes so much effort to get out of a chair or bed... and hobbies are a bit the same for me now. Throw in a bit of cognitive dissonance (guilt: hobby time vs family time vs is this the best use of my time?) and the interest wanes. The childhood dopamine rush is absent, and given R/C has pretty much been the same tech for the last 30 years (albeit with some innovation), I no longer build kits or immerse myself in the hobby. I run my own business (hobby industry) and get more of a kick out of serving customers and the associated product engineering. But I cherish the memories of those 1980s R/Cs. The memories remain.
  3. Sad to part with such a beast, but the time comes. A great looker and a one off. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tamiya-Grave-Di...=item2c604b019d
  4. Cheers Twisty - yes they need to be sealed. Thanks for the link - I so often fail to Google, when I should.
  5. Not sure if anyone has experience applying Tamiya's various weathering powders on styrene bodies/static models. Do these need to be overcoated with a clear coat, or are they self setting? I've heard if they are overcoated straight away with Dullcote, the powders can gum up and create a mess. The Tamiya packaging at my LHS provides no English instructions for use, and the shop hadn't a clue . Thanks - Mike
  6. I noticed the new body of M03 Fiat kit is a cream colour, but the models on Tamiyausa.com seem to be white. Any owners know what the suggested PS colour is in the manual? I would like a cream for my VW! Mike
  7. Looking good BTMR. You may want to consider using velcro as a body mount option on the back end. I used it with my Clod and the grip is quite tenacious. Plus it is not visible. Those shocks look great, I enjoyed building mine and found G-Made's quality is up there with that of Tamiya. From pic 4 above, the body seems to be too far forward by say 1/2", or maybe it's just the angle of the photo. Cheers, Mike
  8. I have a sidewinder 4600 in my Losi Desert truck and on loose gravel (quartz), the tyres have no traction - it's not the slipper or too much power, it's just the complete lack of tyre grip. 4WD is so much better when it comes to speed, so that is why I've been looking at a Savage X 4.6 SS. I'm just not quite hooked on the dirty nitro stuff yet! But electric is too boring for me now. My golden rule for buying a runner is buy the most popular, and the one with the most number of spares available, such as HPI or Traxxas. Losi parts are available, but so many more people now run HPI (Savage) and Traxxas trucks that spares are much more accessible. Ebay or Losi (Horizon online) seems to have plenty of spares for the Desert truck. Losi's advanatge at present is their cheap (but good) DSM equipped radios and digi servos. If you are running on grass, don't buy a truck with 1.9" wheels - it will burn the electrics out. Even a High Roller may not do so well. This is where a bigger truck, such as the Savage Flux or E-Maxx will do much better. Bang for buck the E-Savage is good value, but does not share parts with the latest Savage X line. Go search some other forums to learn which non-Tamiya trucks are popular Mike
  9. Yes great shots in the top 3 and the rest of the comp. Bring on the next one!!! Water has an expansion rate of about 10% as ice, so I wonder if that Super Champ driver has a headache! Mike
  10. Oooooooh I do like the new HPI Savage Flux HP (brushless). Sorry, not Tamiya but it can do 100kph with enough juice... http://www.hpiracing.com/videoplayer/46/ You could kill someone with that! Mike
  11. Normally I use a hair dryer to permanently set my decals once on the body and to drive down any stubborn edges. Some major stretching needs to happen with the Gravedigger flame decals - to the point where the film thickness almost becomes 0mm! I'll give it a shot!
  12. I thought I was okay at applying decals on curved bodies, but now I'm not so sure! The front end flame decals are mightly difficult apply. Without slitting the decal, it must be stretched quite a bit to conform to the shape of the front fenders. Has anybody successfully applied these decals and can offer tips?? Mike
  13. Well here is my Chev grille I collected from Metallising Australia recently. The grille was pretty clean to begin with, with only two spots with the chromed lightly scratched or worn from the packaging it had been in for 21 years. So after a re-chroming or more correctly a deposition of vapourised aluminium, which is more reflective than chrome, it came up a million dollars. After having many parts done by the company, and going through some early teething issues, I'm satisfied and I'm a perfectionistic (which is not a good trait in life youngens). Specifically, the quality of the plastic to be coated and the surface finish pre-process, really defines the likelyhood of a positive outcome. So Corpse Thrower, consider using them again. Cheers Mike
  14. Would a moderator please comment on why my comp entry has been removed?
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