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moejr

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About moejr

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  • Birthday 01/30/1974

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    moejr

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  • Location
    Londonderry NH
  • Interests
    Cars,Computers,Golf and of course RC'ing
  1. I cannot explain why. I am just telling you what I observed in real world testing with my radar gun. Heatsinks are still a must for some motors. I use them on motors that normally would run too hot without them.
  2. I assume that the heat is making the motor more efficient. Really can't be anything else as you are not changing anything but running the vehicle longer getting the motor warmer and picking up mph.
  3. Back a while ago I thought my motors were getting too hot. I went and did a web search for the optimal temp range for RC motors. I clicked on a racers forum of some sort and 1 of them said his motors ran best at 160-180 degrees. I personally tested the theory. I took my radar gun and timed my car right at the beginning of the battery and then after a few laps aorund the parking lot. I gain 1-2 MPH once the motor starts climbing over 130.
  4. I have a DF-02 Gravel Hound and it is a great buggy for a first kit. I took the stock dampers and just added longer rods and springs and I picked up a ton of clearance. As much as my friends DF-03. The double motor trucks like the dualhunter are great fun but deathly slow with the out of the box motors. Now my personal favorite for a guy in your situation is the DT-02 Sand Viper. This buggy is 2wd but comes with oil dampers and full ball bearing set from the factory so no added expense there. It will come with the teu-101bk esc and silver can 540 motor. The 101bk can handle an rz or tz motor as long as you use the 17t pinion gear. This buggy does good both off road and on road. I have rear tires that are more suitable for pavement on an extra set of rims so I can go back and forth between spikes and on road tires. I say the Sand Viper is your best choice IMHO. Moe
  5. I use a Tamiya 23t Super Stock RR in my Pumpkin with an 18t hornet pinion gear. I have no problem with the motor overheating. The motors need heat to make max power. Mine with a 3300 mah pack will get to about 160 by the end of the charge. I had read on another site that I cannot remember but the racer on there said his motor made the best power at 160-180. My RR will push the Pumpkin to 28 mph with that 3300 pack and 18t pinion. The TZ will do 27 mph. I am using a duratrax 12t esc.
  6. Son of a gun that's alot of RC cars. So many it brings a tear to my eye and I get all choked up. Wish I had some of those models. Nice Pic!!
  7. Your battery pack is not the problem as I've used a 330 with NIMH pack and alot hotter motor. Make sure the ESC wires and motor wires are well away from the receiver. It sounds like you are getting interference from them. If that isn't it then it may be the ESC itself. If the Durga came with a teu-101bk try that. The dirt tuned will not even come near over taxing it. My friend has a 101bk in his Brat with a 24 degree timed stock motor and that ESC runs that just fine. Let us know how it goes. Moe
  8. The teu-101bk esc is one durable unit. My friend has got one in a Brat with a 24 degree timing stock motor and it does fine except if you run it too long on 7 cells. On 6 cells he hasn't had any problems. That being said I cannot see why it wouldn't handle the 23T motors. The dirt tuned has more torque but less top end than the sport tuned. In your Gravel hound I would use the TZ because of the 4wd. Cooling is key in that car. It took me a while to find a motor that worked well in that car and stayed cool. I ended up with a Trinity Komodo Dragon 19T. Of course that is too much motor for stock esc but just using as an example.
  9. That's some interesting info. I am running a Novak Super Rooster as I had 2 hanging around and it had a dual motor rating in the manual. That manual says keep them at 0 according to the timing marks on the motor. Tamiya's RZ and TZ come already at 0. I am going to look on Novaks site to see if they still have the manual for the super rooster. I will post a link if available just so the site has some more info to help newbies. I gotta believe if you're not having uneven power issues then you got it working right. Thanks guys. It is always nice to get a good conversation going about our vehicles.
  10. I have been cruising around the site and reading about peoples twin motor trucks like my Double Blaze. I noticed that some people who decided to run modified motors would turn the timing negative on the one running in reverse. You should never run any motor with negative timing per Fantom Motors website. If you set the timing to 0 on both motors you will not have a problem. I did this on my truck with the twin 17x2 Team Orion Method R motors and it flat out honks. Using the box stock 18t pinions the truck does an honest 20-23 mph on my radar gun depending on the battery I am using. Of course the truck has a full ball bearing kit installed. Hope this helps some members thinking of upgrading their motors.
  11. Dirt Tuned cannot be upgraded to bearings as it doesn't have a removable endbell.
  12. I do not know the exact size of the bearings but if you go on ebay and look up seller rcboyz he is selling them for 2.97 a pair. There is know size marking on the package.
  13. If you want hand wound the 2 best I have found are Fantom and Team Orion. When I had my Falcon I used quite a bunch of different motors. The gearboxes can live with 14T motors for a long time. I would probably buy the Fantom if I was in your place simply because they have their custom shop where you can have them build anything you want for the price of a normal hand wound. Any motor with alot of torque is gonna pull the front wheels up on the Falcon. Therefore you could go to Fantoms website and order up say a 13x4 motor. That will take some bite off the bottom end but give you a great top end charge. I ordered 2 custom motors and had them come out beautiful. The ordering sheet is easy to use and guides you step by step. On the cheaper side again I say give a good look at the Tamiya RZ and TZ motors. They will turn the rpms of a 16T-17T motor and are easy on the ESC. Convert them to ball bearings and gain 1000-2000 rpm. You can get them for 30-35 bucks shipped off ebay. The Trinity Speedworks pro line of motors are nice too.
  14. I do keep spares but used my last set on the RR. I sell alot of my motors once they are well used but still have some life left.
  15. The trinity was pulling about 3.75 amps. The TZ and RZ stock were between were about 6 amps. With bearings that dropped to 4.5. The motor dresser has no slave motor so these rpms are with the motor "freewheeling" and at 8.6 volts(that is the averageof the typical 7.2V pack). Good batteries are about 9.3 volts fully charged and fresh. What I did was add 7.2 and 9.3 and divide by 2 for the average. These motors should pull about 21-22k on a motor dyno with a slave motor. The motor are definitely worth the money and the bearings are cheap to buy.
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