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Hi, I don't because of too much adaptors on the charger. I am sure they work. The battery type included in coreless drills and screwdrivers should be mentioned on the kit or the battery pack and charging with an r/c charger is a good idea. Should be more powerful also. Joaquim

Hi, I learn nothing but wheelie action from my Wild Willy M38, my brother had the renault (yellow) F2. My dad and brother built it, I was about 10 years old. It rolls over all the time but the roll bar is metal stick sandwiched. That big bulgy spring bumper works. A durable r/c chassis! Tested by younger me. Joaquim

Guys, I also did. It is such a nice truck! As soon as I get the truck, ball bearing set will be listed. There should be like 200 people in this site buying it. Yeah, Rainbow Ten is a great store! But if possible, try to support your LHS or dealer! Joaquim

Yeah, MiktT, actually Kawasaki first started this thing in their 750 bikes. It works like a super charger but is taken naturally instead, they called it RAM AIR. When the bike reaches sth like 100miles/hr, the amount of compressed air will produce a few HP extra to the engine. Super charge, air is driven into the engine by crankshaft (if I got it right) Turbo charge, air is driven into the engine by exhaust gas Thx Joaquim

Remember back to 1992, I was racing with TA01, limited motor 540 silver can. By that time, the racing theme is like nitro touring or some nascar racing. 3 x 10 min qualifies, 30 min final for A main and 20 min final for B main, the rest of the mains are 15 minutes. Switching battery packs was necessary and heat was the main problem. I actually tried this type of cooling system before, instead of getting from the front grill, mine was directed from the side window by using a plastic tube like real racing cars. I didn't have a temp gun and could not feel the difference either. Theoratically, it works but the difference is minor. Besides cooling issues, you might need to consider the following: 1. Center of Gravity 2. Body Durability 3. Additional Weight 4. Easy to do Maintenance? 5. Aerodynamics I would say your mod is good thinking! If you really use it, put the tube towards the motor endbell rather than the case. Thx Joaquim

Sorry, I made a mistake. The High-lift uses a 3 speed gearbox but not confirmed to be Mercedes 1838LS one. Should be similar. The kit box is the same in size as 1838LS. Thx Joaquim

This new baby uses 1/14 Mercedes 1838LS gearbox. Yes, you should be able to shift on the fly with that Airtronics TX. But like DJTheo said, either between 1st/2nd gear or 2nd/3rd gear. Just play it like an E-Maxx. Thx Joaquim

Spool? The spool gear is a hot option for nowadays r/c touring cars, electric and nitro. The spool is simply a solid axle that replaces the differential or front one way unit. The spool gear allows hard braking into tight corners. Without spool gear, the rear of the chassis could get lose easily under braking. Spool gear causes high wear to front tires and drive shafts. Thx Joaquim

Basicly gear diff has more turn in traction and ball diff offers more traction exiting corners. Thx Joaquim

Allanto, For me, being a long term fan, I would say the price of Tamiya kits are fairly cheap. Because their sales are so high, only Tamiya and a few other brandnames can offer kits at certain quality with a low price. Although material used in some kits might not meet your satisfaction but you must always know what that model is designed for, a backyard basher or a competition model. There is never a hassle building a Tamiya kit. Precision talks! Honestly, e.g. a plastic grasshopper kit worths about US$5.00 or less in material. But manufacturing is not the only process, before that, there are graphics, cad, parts design, marketing, R&D, prototype testing, promotions, sponsors, advertising, domestic shipping etc... All these are considered as an expense. CHEERS Joaquim

Hi members, We will have ABEC 5 general & ceramic hybrid ball bearings very soon. We will carry all existing types except (RK - black rubber shields with steel balls). Please check our store later: http://stores.ebay.com/WalawalaStore?refid=store Thx, Joaquim

I think any Tamiya TGX tires would fit, there are radial tires (50563), slicks (50710, 53202), and rally block tires (50839). Rally block tires are larger in diameter, you must watch for clearance.

I would suggest you hang with Tamiya genuire low friction dampers. Those brandnames you mentioned are low priced but quality far from behind. They might not have hard shock shafts, fluorine low friction coated cylinders and fluorine pistons. There is no doubt about Tamiya's precision and quality. Besides tires, dampers are second important thing.

If you are going to race with it, I would suggest these bodies and tires: Pro-line Mazda 6 for technical course Pro-line Dodge Stratus for high speed course Team Sorex tires and medium inserts I don't know what your local track is like but the above parts work under most conditions.

Hi, A differential is a mechanism that allows 2 wheels or 2 axles to rotate in different speeds under 1 input power. For example when a 4WD car corners, the front axle and outside wheels need to rotate more in order to complete the corner smoothly. To input necessary power to the 4 wheels, the diffs take action. In the real world, 4WD cars have 3 diffs, like 1/8 r/c nitro buggies. To prevent power loss, limited slip differentials (LSD) are necessary. In the r/c world, some smart people invented this neat, simple, efficient LSD for small power r/c cars. It is the ball diff, it works with rotation of balls and plates rather than gears. The 2 output shafts are connected to diff plates and between these 2 diff plates, there are balls. When one diff plate turns, it will turn the balls and causing the other diff plate to rotate into reverse direction. But just the balls and plates, they will slip easily and if you just tighten the center diff screw, you will simply lock the diff or it will become loose easily. In order to let it turn smoothly even when tightened, a thrust ball bearing is there. Thrust ball bearing allows rotation under high pressure. But ball diff has more maintenance than gear diff because of exposure of parts and expessive pressure. Ball diff is not as strong as gear diff and therefore cannot be uses in high power r/c models such as 1/8 On Road and Buggies, especially with long mains. Hope you understand Joaquim

Hi, My Graupner Scorpion Beetle and parts are listed on Ebay, please check: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...me=STRK:MESE:IT http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...me=STRK:MESE:IT If you want to ask questions, please ask through Ebay as I am not at TC very often. Thx Joaquim

Yeah, motors could go very fast depends on how much voltage you use on them plus the drivetrain is very very simple. But as speed increases, stress to parts will also increase. I personally like nitro cars because of the stink, sound and the much more mechanical feeling chassis. R/C hobby is not just about speed for me, I prefer more on spending, doing maintenance and get further understanding on different setups. May be I am too old for speed and competition!

Hi, Nowadays, you can choose to use: -Gear diff -Spool gear (glueing a gear diff) -Front one way -Ball diff Besides Spool gear and Front one way are used in the front end, the rest can be used in either front or rear for TA03 and many other Tamiya chassis. It really depends on which setting you feel comfortable with. The easiest to drive should be: Front - Spool gear Rear - Ball diff

Hi, Engine tuning is pretty abstract and I assume your engine has been broken in. If engine dies easily at idle, just turn in the idle screw about 1/2 turn. If your UNSTABLE at low RPM means it revs up very sloppy, you can turn in the low end needle and try. There are 3 major components that will make an engine wierd: 1.Piston Rod - the area connected to the crank shaft 2.Ball bearings 3.Glow plug Check them if they are worn. Hope it helps. Having thought, it sounds like it is about the low end needle. Too rich or lean could cause problems. I am not sure about your case, you can try to turn in or turn out 1 full turn to see which runs better. Do not run over 20sec per setting. During tuning, a higher idle setting is prefered.

Hi, Tamiya PS paint won't dry out to be hard, they are flexible as they are suppose to be used for polycarbonate bodies. They will dry like a skin. If you do polishing, I am afraid... PS paint has thicker particles than static model TS paint. I have only used PS5 (black) for rear wings or side mirrors, ending to have a semi gloss plastic look. If you really like that purple/green paint, you can try DUPONT, if I got it right, they have this type of paint available in spray cans, besides, they also have mirror chrome paint. A black primer must also be used in order to get that changing color scheme. (I am not sure if they work on plastic!) Joaquim

Hi, Besides: Aluminum Racing Steering Set - Tamiya 53670 Aluminum Steering Link - Tamiya 53864 Turn Buckle Tie Rod Set - Tamiya 53662 All other parts will show great improvements. Joaquim

Part number is 50476, it comes in 2 tires per package and no inserts are included.

Bob, By that time, Tamiya had no real titanium stuff. The TF Evo should come with turnbuckle shafts and if you want to upgrade them, you can try LUNSFORD.

Yeah, Fender Mender works best and it works with all plastic composite and polycarbonate. It is flexible and can be taken apart without problems later on.

The first pumpkin has the body mounts in white plastic and I think it belongs to the front grill tree. Although I don't have this metallic version, I think the best is with balck body mounts. If they come in chrome, they will be scratched by the body clips very easily.