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Hi guys, just a wild guess... The F201 isn't as good as the 3P pan chassis ones such as F103, simply not as fast. I just built the F103GT and found out many possibilities that Tamiya would use this chassis with F201 wheels and tires, could be named F104. The hex adaptors, rear motor mount and motor mount spacers plastic trees are the clues. Joaquim

For ball bearings used for motors and clutch bells, I would suggest 4 stroke engine oil, thin ones only. Joaquim

Steve, I think I can help with the square springs: 53053 - Mini Hi-Cap Damper Spring Set 53054 - Short Hi-Cap Damper Spring Set Joaquim

That's why I like TC, it is just like an r/c sub-division of old askme.com. Too many specialists around. Thx again for the info, Terry. Glenn, I think Theo told me about Terry and Scorpn, but I could only remember Terry by that time because it is a complete name. I didn't want to mispell your username, so I just use some guy. Sorry about this, I will put into my mind. ;-) Joaquim.

Terry, Thanx again, I have downloaded the above instructions from a website and most of your pointed ball bearings are correct except some 4x8x3mm's. Some of them should be replaced with 4x8x3Fmm's, this will replace the metal roll/bushings and M4 washers together. I also got the menus for Gallop & Progress 4WDS but no ball bearing size is mentioned, can you please help? Joaquim

Terry, As you know, I sell drivetrain ball bearing sets and the information you advised could include unnecessary ball bearings such as for slipper clutch, belt tensioners, inside the diffs etc..., can you please point them out in "GEARBOX SECTIONS"? Thx in advance. Joaquim

Terry and Glenn, Thank you very much for this information. Like Theo told me, Terry and some guy will help you out. Joaquim

Steve, Honestly, no one can advise gear ratio to you. It depends on a lot of factors and the most important is "how fast you can turn". Top end drivers always have big pinions for maximum average speed they can make. That's why they look so fast, they might not have much much better equipments than you do. They just turn faster than you do. Joaquim.

Hi guys, I don't know this until now. I always thought the XB Hummer uses the same tub chassis as other TA01's or Manta Ray's. This is not true. The XB Hummer (DF-01 Chassis) features a totally new designed, 95% sealed tub chassis with extra openings to avoid building up dirt. In wet conditions, you will need a water proof steering servo or you can seal some of the servo areas with shoe glue. Remember back to the 90's, r/c racing played a very important role in my Sundays. It was still Tamiya TA01 races, both on and off. No choice for chassis yet. Whenever it rained, either the speed control blew up or the race quit. When racing off road, 200gms of sand will be stuffed inside the tub after the pack even with many holes drilled. This DF-01 chassis should be able to work under rain and extreme conditions. The factory assembling is good, body camou painting is 9/10 but what I dislike is that it doesn't have any ball bearings and it comes with (CVA like) coil spring shocks. Because of these, I have to rebuild it again. I think factory trimmed and painted will be better. Joaquim

This is one famous STOCKLESS seller, just list and buy for you. That's why you receive "this item is not in stock".

This is some kind of bs when a seller states he is in a different country. I have also seen many many UK HK or HK UK sellers on Ebay. Ebay never seem to put their attention on them. As a rule, cost of item, shipping cost, sales tax and insurance should be calculated as a whole for your expense on a certain item. Many sellers try to save FVF (final value fee) from Ebay and to catch customers attention by listing a low price item with high shipping cost. You people should know something about the HK Ebay market, over 90% HK sellers are not dealers and don't even stock an item. They simply buy for you from HK LHS (not only r/c stuff). HK retail market is with high competition and real hobby shops are selling at bottom price for a car/truck kit, 10% profit is already very very good. This usually goes for new released stuff. They only tend to make money from parts. You never wonder howcome HK Ebay sellers always sell many many car kits but few spares and options only? With the above LHS profit conditions, these HK Ebay sellers make good money from car/truck kits while still keeping competitive price because they can buy at a lower price than spare parts from their LHS. HK's apartments are so expensive and small, 300sq ft or 400sq ft and all family members live inside. With all these big truck, tank kits stocked, I think they could barely walk around. No way they stock an item. This is just to let you guys know, you only buy as long as total price is good. However they do won't harm anyone.

Hi guys, Need help from vintage Kyosho specialists, I would like to know drive train ball bearing sets for Scorpion, Rocky, Ultima, Javelin, Turbo Optima, Optima Mid. ??x??x?? (front uprights) ??x??x?? (rear uprights) ??x??x?? (front diff) ??x??x?? (rear diff) ??x??x?? (center shaft) Thx Joaquim

By the way, Hong Kong and Macau are almost tax free, cost is much lower.

Guys, Just called HK Tamiya distributor and no sign on globalizing price yet. Could be a rumour for now. Joaquim

Jerry, The MB4 comes with full ball bearings, 2 x gear diffs, aluminum damper stays and oil filled dampers with aluminum caps. Body is trimmed also in chassis kit versions. Triming a buggy or F1 body is always a pain. The different versions should use same parts but Duratrax has different body painting. RTR is basicly for new and rushy people. The speed of the servo in the RTR kit is unacceptable. Thx Joaquim

Jerry, These were the buggies we first used to convert into a belt driven touring car back to the 90's in Asia, right on Tamiya TA01 era. According to my memory, the EX features much more than the intruder. Better looking body, softer tires, different susp arms, damper stay with more adjustable shock angles, spur gear adaptor and turnbuckle shafts. All these are from my memory, not 100% correct. More helpful links here: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...73&sid=2015 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...4639&sid=39 Thx Joaquim

One more good thing is that you can use mini servos for 1/12 pan chassis such as Futaba S9650 by just cutting the ears on this buggy. It also features 12mm touring car hex adaptors, many tire choice. Thx Joaquim

Guys, Just built one of these. Front and rear assemblies are the same as 1/8 buggies in structure. Pretty high quality and fully adjustable. The plastic parts are as stong as 1/10 scale. Could be too strong and too heavy for this size. The bad thing is about the diffs, pretty hard to build and the diff ball bearings don't sit well, need to apply CA on the diff housing in order for the BB's to fit properly. Building the rest is just like building a Tamiya kit. This thing is made in Taiwan and distributed in US by Duratrax: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...XLAB1**&P=7 Available in: 1.Unbuilt chassis kit only w/380 motor (about US$75.00) 2.Built chassis kit w/380 motor (don't know price) 3.RTR version (about US$145.00) Thx. Joaquim

Theo, If I got it right, the designer of this 1/5 buggy is the same as the one for Kyosho Scorpion. No wonder they look alike and with the smell back to the 80's. Joaquim

Hi CarKing, The M-04M is a high performance MR chassis in the mini class, but it is more difficult to set up and to drive than other front wheel drive ones. I would suggest you to upgrade the following parts: - Ball bearings of course - Manta Ray or TA03 ball diff - 50746 CVA dampers or TRF aluminum ones - TRF damper bushings if you use 50746 - low profile mini rubber tires (F - normal slicks w/foam inserts, R - Super slicks w/shaped tire inserts) You can get more, but the above are something essential. I had one before and it was challenging. As a rule, thicker shock oil and stiffer springs are used in the heavier portion of the chassis. You would like to set it up with thicker shock oil at the rear. The damper pistons are set according to how bumper the track surface is. Smooth tracks, you should go for 1 hole and vice versa for bumpy tracks. As a beginning set up, I would suggest F30wt/R40WT with 2 hole pistons front and rear, for TRF ones, you might need to switch to F20wt/R30wt, 3 hole pistons. For springs, just leave stock ones there, get a feeling of it first. Again, as a rule, a chassis that rolls will provide more steering but loses stability. How hard the springs should be? You must run it and check front and rear chassis roll during cornering. Too hard and too soft will lose traction. The steering characteristics of this chassis is very sensitive. The front dampers are too slanted and with those very soft springs, the front end has a hard time to maintain balance. While exiting corners, it usually hook (too much steering). To improve this, place 1 TRF urethane bushing on top of the dampers seal (for front only). This will quicken rebound rate. If still too much steering, you need to move to harder springs in the front. Tricky part - ride height, again, depends on track conditions, should be as low as possible without too much interference with the surface. Generally 5 - 7mm. You can manage the rear by adding spacers inside the damper shafts but for the front, you need to modify it a bit. Otherwise, you will not get enough suspension travel. This is what I did: get 2 long screws, 2pcs of 5mm ball nuts and some 3mm spacers. These parts will be used on the upper mounts of the dampers in the front. You should know how to..., set the upper mounting points more towards the front. This will increase shock angle, this is also one way to fine tune the hardness of the springs, like those holes on damper stay. Now, the front shock travel should increase. If it is not enough, add more spacers, but make sure the ball ends don't bind. thanks, Joaquim.

Hi, You should, but soft ones only. Otherwise your rim hole will suck dirt between the rims & tires. Regards Joaquim

Hi, The rims of the WW2 are 12mm Hex toruing car adaptors and the Pumpkin are a 5 hole design. WW2,Pumpkin,LB,Mad Bull,Early 1/14 QD monster trucks all use the same lug pattern tires. Both front & rear. There is also a special version of these tires (like Monster Beetle): http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...315042&tc=photo Hope the info helps. Regards Joaquim

Hi Members, We now also carry these parts at reasonable price. Please let your G4 buddies know about this. Thanx in advance. http://stores.ebay.com/WalawalaStore Our upcoming Website : www.walawalastore.com Best regards Joaquim

Hi members, I need help in choosing my racer. If you had ever raced with the TG10R, please let me know performance comparing to others such as Mugen MTX-3, NTC3 etc... Please send your reply to walawala@thefreesite.com , any reply will be appreciated. Best regards Joaquim Assis

Hi, I understand the entire mechanism but the planetary gears are for reverse only. If you "turn the belt pullies" and push the rod into the CCVT, you will see immediately the thing is doing reverse. The real Automobile A/T tranamission uses planetary gearbox also. But in this vehicle, the P gearbox is for reverse on a same output shaft, I never had a run on it and might be parts inside that I don't understand. Really want to try it out. I still don't think it will change speed. Actually, I have 2 Sports Version and 4 Normal versions w/CCVT's. The Sport Version comes with full ball bearings and Forward/Brake configuration and a revised steering geometry. I used to be addicted to the Tamiya Pajero, but now I think only its body shell is better. BR Joaquim