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Thanx Man :-}

Members, Please advise the nowadays pricing of the following products, it would be great if anyone had experiences from E-Bay: Kyosho Triumph 2WD buggy NIB Tamiya F103RS NIB - chassis only edition Tamiya F103RX NIB - chassis only edition Tamiya Dyna Storm 2WD buggy NIB Are all the above products discontinued? Thanx

This is what I think of. Nowadays it is not easy to get this kind of spacers. I think I need to custom machine a pair. I wonder how other E-Mxx guys put some other motors on their maxxes???

Thanx Stu, but this is not the case. I am using KP 72T, Robinson 9T to obtain a higher gear ratio. The pinion gear will either be too high or too low. If I flip the pinion gear over, Then the set screw cannot get in contact with the armature. If it is installed in a normal way, The gear mesh will be like 1/3.

Please advise : I have a Maxx tranny conversion from TTR and successfully installed to my TXT-1. I want to run my MT with the stock silver can 540's rather than the Titan 550's. Here causes the armature problem. The output armature of the Titan's are longer than other 05 size motors. In the Maxx, the pinion gears are flipped over for installation since the spur gear is so close to the motor plate. When the silver can 540's are installed to the Maxx tranny, I could not have a proper gear mesh no matter how I install the pinions, normal way or flip it over, result in about 1/3 gear mesh. If someone has an E-Maxx, will it accept other motors besides the stock Titan's with the pinion gears in stalled w/full contact with the spur gear. Anybody has a clue?

I love buying NIB, may be I don't trust people building them. I might not be going to run it, but at least I will build it!!! It means nothing keeping it unbuilt unless you plan on selling it.

Rotation mass is one problem but by doing so, you can actually change the weight distribution by moving the motor.

A torque splitter is actually a gear w/ a one way bearing. But only Tamiya calls it a Torque splitter. The usage is to let the front wheels run faster or have more revolutions than the rear wheels during cornering. Why is it? Draw a car figure vertically with the front wheels turned right, from the rear wheel axles, extend a line to the right until it reaches the center point of the turning diameter of the car. Now from the center point, check the distance from the left rear wheel & left front wheel. The front wheels need to travel longer to complete one turn than the rear wheels. The Torque Splitter is ensure that the front wheels spin more rpm's w/o changing the speed of the rear wheels. This will make smooth and more agressive cornering. With the Torque Splitter installed, the car will be more hooked than w/o it cause the front wheels no more be slowed down by the rear wheels. If you could drive it, you will increase 1-2 secs /lap. I guarantee. For a slippery surface, uninstalling the Torque Splitter will make driving easier. Torque splitter is also a compromise between the cornering ability & braking ability. You cannot brake the front wheels anymore. 4 wheels running & 2 wheels braking. Torque Splitter is a must for 4WD cars that is not equipped with a center diff. High traction surface is necessary. Manta Ray & Top Force, TA01, TA02 all shares the same Torque Splitter. But there are 2 kinds, one is for the idler gear and one is for the diff gear. Check out from Tamiya.

If you are looking for performance, I strongly urge you to get a Clod. Tons of after market parts available, even the chassis! Highly potentialed. The Clod obtains a low CG with the motors close to the ground.

Hua, hi hi

It is not a good idea to cut the antenna wire or doing any surgery to it. Just let it be. If it is really too long, Try to wrap the rest of the wire to some insulators.

I had this thought also, but couldn't place the steering system. By the time I thought this, the TA03R wasn't announced yet. But I know too good about Tamiya. Have you ever own a TA01? Noticed that the body post plastic tree, there is a part for the TA02. Tamiya is a well planned company, way better than Kyosho. quote:Originally posted by jhellmanHi, not that I would do it, but just to know: how can you convert a F into a R? I suppose the in the "R", the engine is in front of the rear tyres? I bet that requires the whole body to be changed? Or do you just change the front tires to "back" of the body and vice versa, resulting into a "R" in which the engine is behind the rear tyres? br, Juha id="quote">id="quote">

jhellman, Get a TA03R front gearbox, FRP or bath tub chassis, F/R 15T pulleys, TA03R front bumper. Put the TA03F front gear box to the rear, the bottom guard has to be switched with the bottom guard of the TA03F rear gear box. Remember to screw 2 flanged ball bearings (5 x 8F)right behind the motor as a clearance for the belt. You will find that hole. This is the idea, may be there are parts I am missing. One reminder : Get CVD's for the front of the TA03F, very high stress part as the front is really heavy. Putting the one way in the front or in the rear will change the running style. The front damper stay of the TA03R will let you use some sleeker bodies. You can just use this on the TA03F.

Jhellman, Have fun with your TA03F! But converting it to a TA03R will give tighter cornering and less push during hard acceleration. Best wishes to you Walawala

Willy, According to what you said, may be the TA03 Family are disasters to me. I have the TA03F pro (modified to be a TA03F TRF), TA03RS TRF. I am a Tamiya fan and I know what quality they give and how I should build a car. I am really upset about this but hope this never happened to anyone. Anyway, thanx for your advise.

I had experience with both the TA03F & TA03F TRF...not very good. I have been in R/C for 15 years, you should trust me. The first problem - The front gear box or rear gear box for TA03R. The diff gear(Tamiya ball diff) or the gear next to it(Tamiya one way gear) is like somehow don't rotate at the center point, turns ovally. When these 2 gears mesh together, there is always a very tight point. I tried another brandname's fine pitch gears, but the same thing happened. This problem applies to the front only, the rear is smooth. This problem could be slightly solved by lossing the bottom screws a bit, I mean the lower gearbox cover. I tried any possible combinations but nothing worked out. This has been a misery for years. Man, If you got a solution, please let me know. The second problem - super tight & thick high friction belt. Have you ever seen those colorful belts in orange or blue? They are like plastic. Get those! But will work fine after 30 -40 runs. Keep the front and rear using 16T belt gear. No belt tensioners necessary This could be the worst car I've ever had from Tamiya. I wonder how David Jun won with it.

The Top Force EVO features the following if I still have them right : - Full Tamiya blue rubber shielded ball bearings - Alu hi cap dampers all around - Front one way but not independent - 2 ball diffs - C-FRP upper & lower chassis - May be universal shafts - May be turn tie buckles - May be titanium screws from Tamiya - May be tougher propeller shaft - Black color gear boxes - Light weight king pins - A 02H motor A conclusion : The TF EVO features almost every hop up parts available from Tamiya. I listed with just my remaining memory. May be not right. According to the old times, we buy this TF Evo and switch all the goodies to our TA-01 chassis.

This site is great you gave me miramar. Thanx

Shodog, will the 2mm offset wheels fit better? Please advise. Thanx

Thank you U2! :-)

Hi guys, I am a new member. I live in Macau (via Hong Kong). I recently bought a Pajero on Ebay and I would like to get some option parts for it. I don't mean ball bearings or any parts from Tamiya cause I know them already. I've seen some members having aluminum wheels, special aluminum bumpers etc... Please advise where I could get some on-line. Thanx [8]