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Mad Ax

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About Mad Ax

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  • Location
    Lurking among the gothic shadows of Bath
  • Interests
    Streetfighters, motorbikes, fiction writing

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  1. I really like that anything that looks like it could exist as a 1:1 car or as a genuine model kit is a great build, IMO
  2. Here's a tradition I want to import from a forum I previously posted on. Actually, from around 2014 to the start of 2020, a regular highlight of my week was waiting for the Friday Thread to appear so I could post up my plans for the weekend. Partly I suppose for vanity's sake, partly out of a desire to be seen and recognised (even more important now in a world where so much of our lives goes on behind closed doors out of sight of our friends and peers), partly because it actually helps me stop, think about and mentally prepare for what I'm going to do so I can hit the ground running. But, also, because it's nice to know what other people are up to and maybe learn more about my Tamiyaclub friends, who I have neglected a little of late. Also I appreciate that not everybody works the five-day 9-5 grind so many of you might be working over the weekend, or you may well be living in parts of the world where the weekend brings no more freedoms than the rest of the week, if you aren't allowed to leave your homes or go to work. With that in mind - what are you all up to this weekend? Oh, what am I up to? Nice of you to ask Friday I'm working from home until around 4:30-ish today, with a little break in the middle to visit the osteopath. My back went out on Monday morning and I've been in constant pain ever since, so it will be good to at least start the road to recovery. After work I'm free to do what I want. I haven't really decided what I'll do yet. My back will need a few more days to recover so I won't be doing any cycling or riding my motorcycle to the coast, even if the weather looks acceptable. I can't really afford to drive the van to the coast as I need to save the fuel money for Carlisle at the end of the month. Instead I might go through all my off-road runners and catalog them ready for the Junkies meet in a few weeks, or I might sit down in my studio and try to finish off some really old music projects. Saturday Every Saturday I spend the entire day with my daughter. That said, it's also the day I do some household chores. I've got to prep a slow-cooker meal, and I desperately need to clean the kitchen before it develops sentience and moves out on its own. My back won't be fit for crawling around on the floor or chasing toddlers around the house, and the weather forecast is atrocious, so a day of sitting back on the sofa and watching Disney films beckons. If we get a dry spell I might take her out for a walk in the woods. After bedtime, the world is my oyster, provided I don't leave the signal radius of the baby monitor. I'll tell myself I'll stay sober and work on my novel, but in reality I'll probably drink beer and watch TV, which is my normal MO for a Saturday evening. Sunday Technically it's my day off, but I've got a huge stack of DIY that isn't going to do itself, so I might start the day by making the side desk for my new home office. Assuming that doesn't take all day, I'll finish cataloging my off-road runners for the Junkies meet and give them all a once-over to make sure they're running. No point wasting precious van space taking broken cars with me. I'll probably come away from that experience with a huge list of parts I need to get everything ready. I'll be rolling straight into Sunday evening, so assuming I'm not still buried under side desk installations and RC collection cataloging I'll be cracking open a cool beverage and sitting down in the studio to write up some progress reports on Tamiyaclub and work on some music. Have yourselves a great weekend
  3. I like Fusion and use them a lot for new kits where the discount makes sense, but I also have been caught out by parts not in stock, even to the extent that I've had to chase up a month after placing the order to be told that no, it wasn't in stock then, it isn't in stock now, and they don't know when it will be in stock, which I could have been notified within days of placing the order. If I ever have enough spare cash to buy another new kit they'll be my first port of call but I use Modelsport or Tony for parts.
  4. You'll want the CVA shock sets for the dampers. Fronts should be 70mm which you can build with set 50519 CVA Mini Shock Unit set II, rears are 95mm so you'll need set 50520 CVA Short Shock Unit Set II. This is different to the alloy set that comes with the MS but are fine for general use and club level racing. DT-02 turnbuckle set is 53828. Not the same as the one on the MS but serves the exact same purpose. For parts like the above, I just type the part number into Google and see what comes up. If you can find all the parts in stock at a single store you might save on postage. UK stock may be a bit short for Tamiya hop-ups at the mo, so you might have to hunt around or wait for them to come in stock. Bearings - any good model shop should sell a DT-02 bearing kit, if not then rcbearings.co.uk will have them.
  5. This is a stock image from Modelsport. There are a couple of differences: The bits that stand out the most are the shock absorbers and front upper arms. Your car has blue friction dampers which look like they are from a Holiday Buggy, the pic above has black oil-filled shock absorbers, which are a good shock for the money (and better than most cheaper alloy shocks). Yours has solid upper suspension arms (the front has a neat hole through the middle for the shock absorber) but the pic above has an adjustable arm made from a metal rod with a ball adjuster on each end. The less obvious parts would be bearings - the Sand Viper came with full bearings from the factory but the Holiday Buggy didn't, bearings are a must if you're doing any upgrades at all. Also I can't see what size motor is installed from your pics, but the Holiday Buggy came with a smaller motor, the Sand Viper has a regular 540 size. You can buy a motor plate to fit the 540 motor if it isn't already fitted. None of this is a problem - if you go MS spec you'll be looking for the DF-03 alu shock set and turnbuckles anyway, which will do away with the bouncy blue shocks and solid upper arms. Actually if you just wanted to drive and have fun without chasing MS spec hop-ups, there's nothing wrong with the solid arms (assuming oil shocks fit through the holes in the front - I've never tried that, I don't have those arms).
  6. I just did an ebay search for "tank chassis" and found several Heng Long 1/16 chassis for around £50 plus postage, which isn't a bad start. Also if you look on the Chinese marketplace sites there are tracked chassis for robotic projects. I considered one for an RC project but decided it was probably a bit small and lightweight, however if he's interested in engineering and modifying, robotics is a brilliant start. Also gives him the option of using an Arduino as well as RC stuff, which will be a good introduction to software design, an essential skill not just for budding software engineers but anyone who wants to work in research these days.
  7. I'm glad it's working - happy trucking As for the title - just leave it be, the next person who does a web search for "mfc doesn't start" might find this topic and be able to solve their problem without having to post and wait for an answer
  8. Check if the channels are reversed in the transmitter. You can go into the settings and find an option called Reverse. According to the manual, everything should be set to Normal (i.e. not Reversed) for the MFU. If that doesn't work, go through the setup process again, following the manual carefully. If memory serves you are prompted to move the stick in one direction, press a button, then in the other direction, press a button - if you get the movements wrong the MFU gets confused. I'm sure I've been turning right and had my left indicators come on before when I've got the setup wrong. Also check (maybe with the wheels off the ground) if the direction of reversement is in the motor or in the MFU itself. i.e. If you push up on the stick, does it make the "driving forwards" noise but turn the wheels backwards, or does it make the driving backwards (reversing beep) noise? Or do the brake lights come on? If you hold the stick up then immediately pull back, do the brake lights come on, or do the wheels immediately start turning the other way? Basically when you're driving forwards, pulling back on the stick should apply the brakes the first time - it should only go into reverse if you release the stick to the middle then pull back again. However there is no such feature for reversing - if you're going back and you push forward, the truck will just go forward. If this function works properly (i.e. pulling back makes the wheels stop and the brake lights come on) then the channel is the right way round but the motor is connected backwards (i.e. unplug the motor terminals and plug them in the other way around). If the functionality is reversed (ie. the brake lights or reversing bleeper come on when you push forward on the stick) then the channels are reversed in the transmitter or the MFU isn't properly set up. I'm fairly sure the steering servo and gear selector output is "straight through" on the MFU, so if they are going the wrong way, you will need to reverse the channels in the transmitter. So - to summarise: check all channels are set to 'normal' in the transmitter go through the setup process again confirm if it works properly if the sound/brake/reverse function is working but the truck is going the wrong way, reverse the motor terminals if the sound/brake/reverse function is completely backwards, set the throttle channel to Reverse repeat for the other channels if necessary I hope that helps
  9. Interesting, I'd not heard about this, but if it's true, I hope it turns out to be a modern-style sand rail. I find it odd that there are so many seriously cool-looking and capable 2wd and 4wd buggies in the 1:1 world but Tamiya haven't got anything in the line-up that even slightly looks like them. Most of the other big manufactures have got something, and the Chinese competitors are undercutting Tamiya prices and specs with buggies that look great. I'd love so see a modern sand rail with twin stars on it.
  10. If your motors have spade-type connectors then they'll need changing to bullet types to fit the new ESC (both the Tamiya and the Hobbywing will have bullet connectors). You might be able to get the right connectors from an automotive spares shop - if you take in the ESC and the motors they might even fit the connectors for you. Alternatively your hobby shop should be able to sell some connectors that you can crimp or solder on at home. Personally I prefer solder but there's nothing wrong with crimps if done properly - after all they come from the factory with crimped connectors and I've never had one fall off. As mentioned above, the battery connector on the Hobbywing will either be Tamiya or Deans - if all your current cars and batteries are still on Tamiya connectors then it makes sense to get this one with Tamiya connectors too, although Deans or XT60 can flow more current if you upgrade the motors and batteries later. If the ESC arrives and it has a Deans connector, you can buy an adapter lead to fit your existing batteries. Also as mentioned above, that switch with all the crazy wires won't be needed any more, you will just have a single switch on the ESC to turn the whole thing in and off. No need for economy mode with modern batteries (even NiMH batteries) and if you did want longer runtimes at the cost of lower speed, you can program the ESC to deliver half power to the motors. Your Spektrum servo should be OK. According to the specs it's (mostly) metal geared and provides around 10Kg of torque at the voltage provided by the 0880 ESC, so it should be adequate. It's possible the servo horn installed right now won't fit the Spektrum but I don't know for sure, but hopefully the Spektrum came with some servo horns that you can fit. Your receiver doesn't need space for 2 servos unless you plan to go for a servo-on-axle installation with a servo at each end (even then, you could get away with using a Y-lead from receiver to both servos to get around this). But I don't think that's what you're asking. Basically your receiver needs at least 2 channels - one for the steering servo, one for the ESC. Even a 2-channel receiver will probably have a 3rd port labelled BIND, which is used to bind the receiver to the transmitter and can be used as a battery port to power the receiver (for MSC and older ESCs that didn't have built in BEC for powering the receiver) or as a power outlet to run things like LEDs or a race transponder. Basically the finished setup in your Clod should look mostly identical to that in your other cars - one receiver with one lead going to the steering servo and one going to the ESC. The only key differences are: the steering servo is connected to both axles, and the ESC is connected to two motors.
  11. Interesting update @Dug180, thanks for sharing Personally I love mine on 2WS. I actually really like that understeery handling, I find it very predictable and I very rarely roll it over. I get that I could turn tighter with 4WS but I'm not sure if what would destroy the feel of it for me. But maybe I'll give it a try if I can pick up the steering parts somewhere
  12. I agree with @yogi-bear, Inkscape is brilliant - I use it for all my graphic design work. The colours are a good point but generally I wouldn't worry too much about colour shift unless you're doing lots of compound colours. The printing company will probably want the file in a 'vector' format. The image file basically contains instructions on how to build the components of the image in terms of shapes and lines. That is different to a 'raster' image, such as a photo (bitmap, jpeg, png) which contains instructions on the colours and where they go on the grid. They key difference is that a vector image can be scaled to any size without losing any detail, whereas a raster image will pixelate if you try to enlarge it, but it is also makes a difference in how the printer driver interprets the image and puts the ink onto the media. Inkscape allows you to create and edit vectors and can save in a variety of formats, although it's worth proof-loading the saved file to make sure it hasn't lost some data when going from Inkscape's own format into a more common one like SVG or AI. There is a learning curve with all this. For example you can't just import a picture of the Manta silhouette or a photo of the Tamiya logo and save it as a vector file - but you can import photo files and use them as templates to manually draw around, if you like, then delete the photo from the file before you send it for printing. Another thing you can do is a web search for free vector files - it's surprising how many vector files you can find absolutely free on various vector sites (often I cover my cars with genuine sponsor logos - NGK, Shell, NOS for example - from files I downloaded from free vector sites). Another thing to bear in mind is that many printers can't print on clear sheet (or, they can, but they can't back the print with white, so if you stick the decal on a dark-coloured body you won't be able to see the image). Some companies can print white onto clear but only if they do what's called a screen print, which is not cost effective for a single sheet. Some companies can print white ink direct onto clear which makes the decal look much more professional. Printing on white is OK but you almost always see the white of the vinyl showing through when it's stuck on a dark surface. As Yogi says, some printing companies will automatically cut the stickers for you if you provide a cut line around the logos, this gets the neatest cut possible around the decal so you get minimal white border. You'd have to talk to the printer to find out how they'd want that supplied. Generally I think it would be best to message a company first and ask what they can do and what file format they want before you ship it. If you sent an unsolicited attachment it could have been caught by a spam filter or antivirus software. Not sure where you're based but I use https://mciracing.ca/ - they ship to UK and Nathaneal is very helpful if you're new to graphic design, and also can print onto clear sheet so you don't need to second-guess your design. I'm pretty sure there are UK-based companies but I have heard some are not beginner-friendly and won't reply if you give the impression you don't know what you're talking about. There are also lots of home printers who advertise on Facebook groups who can print decals for you provided you don't want them printed on clear sheet. If I'm doing a full colour design on a coloured body then I'll suffer the cost and use MCI racing because I know I'll get the right job done first time. If I just want a single block colour design, I'll print onto clear vinyl sheet with my laser printer and design my colour scheme so my colours only go over parts painted in white, silver, grey, or maybe yellow, although I can confirm black laser toner works OK on red and metallic copper too.
  13. It looks like there's some confusion in how you've described what you have so far, which is totally understandable if you're trying to make sense of all these modern acronyms by reference to your older car. What you have there is an old crystal-type AM 75MHz receiver and a mechanical speed controller (MSC) operated by a servo. The metal box is a protective shield over the resistor, which is used by the MSC and can get very hot when in use. There will also be a steering servo mounted lower in the chassis, which you can't see in that photo. It's underneath the plastic tray that all those electrics bits are attached to, and will be connected to front and rear axles via long pushrods. Some people like how the old stuff feels in these vintage trucks, so there's probably no problem in sticking with the MSC and AM radio if you wanted to, but you could get a lot more reliability by upgrading to modern parts, such as 2.4 GHz radio and an electronic speed controller (ESC). You will need: a 2.4GHz radio set. You'll need a new transmitter and receiver. There are lots of budget 2.4GHz radios on the market now, if you prefer a stick over a wheel then they cost a bit more. FlySky are well-priced and have tonnes of features that your old radio probably doesn't have. An ESC capable of running two motors. The Hobbywing Quicrun 0880 has become the go-to standard for dual motor installations and gives you the option of running LiPo batteries, faster motors or more volts later if you want to. You may also need a new steering servo. I can't tell from the photo if your servo plugs are the older (larger) type. At some point the plug size changed and the older larger plugs won't fit modern radios. It might be hard to tell until you've got your new ESC - you can compare the plug sizes. I would guess the steering servo is of the same type is operating your MSC, if so it will be basic and not provide a lot of torque, which you kind of want for turning those giant wheels. Power HD are well-priced - a 20Kg servo should be more than up to the job. Alternatively, if you wanted to upgrade the somewhat wobbly and vague standard steering, you could get two new servos and an axle-mounted servo setup for each end. With a FlySky radio you can configure dual steering in a variety of ways, or you could just have steering on the front like a conventional truck. I would say, keep the standard steering arrangement until you've had a chance to drive it around and see if you like it, as it can start getting expensive to put servos on the axles. When you get all your new parts, you can start taking out the old stuff. That servo and the MSC that it's connected to can go, along with that metal box and the receiver. Your new electronics will be much more compact and won't have any moving parts. Only the heatsink on top of the ESC will get hot but it shouldn't get hot enough to burn your fingers like the resistor does. Hopefully that all makes sense
  14. If you're in Canada then I guess the outside temps were pretty low? Plastic gets more brittle as it gets colder. Generally, Tamiya wheels are made of a tough plastic that doesn't crack, although I have found the chrome-plated wheels crack more easily. Maybe the plating process makes the plastic more brittle or the lack of flex in the plating transmits some shock through the plastic? Anyway, I digress, as @TurnipJF says the Lunchbox wheels don't usually break, let's see some pics and maybe something will become apparent.
  15. @mongoose1983 The 6-wheeled Ford is the Truck of Many Wheels, which you can read all about here :
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