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Mad Ax

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Everything posted by Mad Ax

  1. wow, that's an awesome present, and a nice way to spend a birthday Whiz Duck is a fab name too, over here we just call it a Lemon Two-Horse
  2. So far my weekend is not going entirely well :p I've been suffering from some health problems the last couple of weeks, an old condition snuck up on me without me realising and without me having done anything to aggravate it, this week has been tough and this morning I finally admitted defeat and took a sick day. I've done a lot of upgrading in my recording studio this week so I thought I'd spend a day in there getting to grips with some new software and making some progress on performing some live music, for the first time since I was in my teens. Got my first "gig" (a mate's house party) in 2 weeks and wanted to have just 2-3 tracks ready to play. Well - that wasn't to be! For some reason my Windows 10 laptop decided it didn't like me this morning, and got stuck in an endless restarting cycle that I could only fix with a complete reinstall of Windows. That started around 11am, here I still am sitting in the studio feeling like death warmed up (actually half-cooked and half-chilled, it's impossible to effectively heat this space without it feeling like I'm in an oven and it goes stone cold the second the heater is turned off), Windows has finally reinstalled itself and now I'm on the long, slow haul of reinstalling all my studio software. My internet doesn't seem to like me much today either because my download rate has dropped right off. So my plans of a relaxing, recovering studio day have been somewhat dashed, and I've got to clean myself up and put on a smile tonight because it's a mate's birthday night out in Bristol. No beverages as I'll have to drive (or brave the train for an hour each way), and will try to find a low calorie option on the menu because I'm not losing weight nearly as fast as I think I should be given how much I've reduced my food intake over the last two weeks. Tomorrow - looking after my daughter all day. We might put up the Christmas tree. I know it's still November but my wife is desperate to get on with it and we're going to be busy over the next few weeks. Evening, either watch a film or continue the long process of rebuilding my studio laptop. Sunday - normally I have Workshop Sunday, I've got more work to do on the F150 tow truck, but I might pop over to the first day of the CWICs indoor racing series if they'll allow spectators, and catch up with some friends. Probably come in early from the workshop and do some work in the studio if the laptop is ready. Gonna have a couple of beers and a small pizza for dinner and hopefully giggle away the last hour of the weekend watching Top Gear. Monday - was planning on being back at work, but I'll have to see how I feel, don't want to go back too soon and aggravate things again. Have a good weekend people :)
  3. Hmm, interesting... For me personally, it's a tricky one. The King Cab was my first ever Tamiya, but it came to be as a very-well-used example, so I never had the joy of building and driving it fresh. It would certainly be an interesting change for Tamiya too since there hasn't been a hint at this one yet. An easy one would be the Mud Blaster. That was my only childhood NIB, and although it was arguably the worst of the ORV trucks and a bit of a disappointment to me, I'd still like to relive that build experience again. I think the King Blackfoot would be a better option as it's a better truck all round, but I already have two of them, so I doubt I'd buy.
  4. It's the lime green pumpkin that immediately comes to mind when I think of Shodog. I remember seeing pics back when I was new to painting hard bodies, for a long time I had the list of paints he used written down somewhere so I could try to achieve the same finish on one of my projects. Strange when it's one particular vehicle that sticks in the mind or pulls at a certain desire; maybe less strange when the quality is as good as Shodog's. Can't speak for everybody but I love the rhyme and think it's very fitting.
  5. It's an area I've always struggled with too, but there are a few things you can try. I've had varying degrees of success with all of the below. 1) paint the tight area first. This is something I usually do on all my bodies. Focus first on getting the paint into the tighter bits like wing corners, rolled arches and bonnet lips. If you end up with a run on a nearby open panel it's easier to wipe it off and then clean it with surface prep or paint remover or thinners before it's cured, but you can leave the paint you already got in the tight area 2) put on a glove* and hold the part by hand. Easier said than done, but it means you can get the body on just the right angle for the nozzle 3) use an airbrush. You can adjust for a finer, more direct spray to get right into the edges. Obviously this incurs significant expense *I treat this step as optional, hence why I'll regularly be found with nails of various colours on my left hand
  6. I'd wanted a lathe for a long, long time, and I was fortunate enough to find an old racer selling a vintage one at the Revival back in the summer. He was even kind enough to give me a demo on how to use it. My beloved Acto Pink failed during Friday Practice, the comm was in a terrible state having never been serviced since I've owned it, and I got it used back in 2008 or 2009. So I spent an hour hunched over a chilly table in an open-sided marquee, wearing soggy shorts and sandals while the sun went down and the wind picked up. Before that I'd been cleaning my comms with fine wet-or-dry, but a lot of my motors have got so bad that the wet-or-dry treatment will see them through maybe a couple of races before they start arcing and cutting out again. I've got a big stack of motors to service on a cold winter afternoon when the fire's starting to die down and I'm tired after a day of project wrenching. Definitely worth keeping your eye out for a used one, it's very therapeutic
  7. I can't help with the motor ID, but strange you should post this because I got out my new (vintage) motor lathe yesterday for the first time since I bought it in the summer and started truing the comm on my old Trinity Revenge of the Monster motor, which saw me through several race seasons with no servicing besides a few brush sets. I've got a few other brushed motors that refuse to run properly despite brush replacement, so I've got a lot of comm-cutting to do Good luck getting that old hybrid running again
  8. That's a gorgeous build and a bargain at that price, I'd have it if I hadn't just committed all my disposable (and then some) to upgrading my studio. I'm sure someone will get a lot of joy out of it.
  9. Oh no, I'm really sad to read this and so sorry for your loss. I didn't know Shodog personally but he was one of the main posters here back when I first joined the forum a decade and a half ago, I remember his impressive collection even way back then, pretty sure I can even remember some specific cars, and I'm sure his helpful tips on painting gave me the confidence to start doing hard bodies. I think we might have messaged each other a few times back then, but I'm can't be 100% sure. I know he disappeared from the scene for a while and was good to have him back with us recently, so sad he won't be joining us any more. I'm a motorcyclist too, and with a young family, I think about the risks every time I throw a leg over the bike. It's so sobering when it happens to someone in your circle, even if you didn't know them personally. Rest easy Shodog, you'll not be forgotten here
  10. One final pic - working on the pickup assembly. I had a million different ideas for how this might work, but most of it looked great in my head but wasn't going to be easy to make in such small space from bits of alu sheet, section and tube. Here's what I started with - a brass cupboard hinge, a piece of 1mm sheet and a Tamiya servo post. You'll have to wait until next weekend to see how all this goes together, but basically the goal is for me to reverse up to a stricken touring car, slide this plate under the body, then - using a single winch line - lift the plate to secure the car to the truck, as well as lifting the car off the ground so it can be towed back onto the track. Whether any of this will actually work in practice remains to be seen...
  11. To make the frame for the back, I used some 3mm piano wire that I'd got for making monster truck sway bars. I part-bent it into shape before fitting, but had to take the bends out to get it through the boom, then put them in again, hence they're not perfect. I wedged a smaller side u-section into the boom to stop it deforming while I used a combination of vice, hammer and brute force to get the wire into a neater shape And, fitted!
  12. I glued a closing panel onto the back of the cab, and while that was drying, I set to work on the towing beam. I saw a neat idea on a Wendigo tow rig at the last Bournemouth truck meet, so I went back to the photos to see how much of it I could copy. I started with some U-section allu. I pressed some 4mm ID tube into it to stop it deforming when clamped. I will probably replace this later with a pulley wheel. I cut some more spacers and a length of M3 rod (M4 would be better but I need to mount the shocks on the end of it) and mounted the front of the boom. It should probably look a little like this:
  13. I don't usually do these updates late on a Sunday night, but things are going to be a bit crazy over the next couple of days so I thought I'd get this in early. Workshop Sunday began with a clear blue sky and an unseasonably warm sun beating down on the workbench. It still hasn't been cleared since last weekend, so it started the day looking like this: First thing I wanted to do was experiment with tyres. I managed to get a newer Tamiya BFG mounted on the deep steels, but the sidewall had an ugly bulge and it just didn't look right. I them remembered I had some KRT tyres on one of the CC01s that might be worth a try, but although it fitted the wheel well enough (actually it would need gluing because it spins on the RC4WD tyre!) and looks kinda cool as a standalone wheel, it really didn't suit the look of this truck. With that in mind, I went ahead and mounted the old Rock Stompers on all 4 deep steels and fitted some old Hyraxes up front, as they are a similar diameter to the Stompers. The final tyre will probably be a bit smaller, but this is good enough to build the rig from.
  14. It's Friday again, peeps! What is everybody up to? I'm starting work now (well, as soon as I've posted this), do some housework and paperwork during lunch and hopefully wrap up at 4pm. It's been dry all week and looked like good walking weather but I've been too busy to get out; today I'd planned to have a sunset walk along the ridge, but the weather has turned. Hopefully it'll dry out later. I went for a walk in the rain last week and realised how bad my wet weather walking gear is, I got soaked to the skin in about 5 minutes. Not sure what tonight will bring. I'll probably have a quiet one in the studio and work on some music or fiction, or at a pinch I could charge up the LiPos and drive down to the coast for drift club. Bournemouth is only 75 minutes away but rising fuel costs are making a hermit of me. Having a quiet day with my daughter tomorrow, I've promised to take her to the woods, drive our scalers around and cook cheeseburgers in the van. Our neighbour had a giant oak tree cut down yesterday, which is a same for the environment but the view from my office is a hundred times better, our garden might actually get some sunlight in the winter and our cars won't get covered in tree sap and bird droppings. So - I have a bit of tidying to do in the yard and some ivy to cut back now the tree is gone. Saturday night is usually my solo film night, but I've been lazy this week and watched a lot of TV already, so I might spend some time in the studio. Then it's the highlight of the week - Workshop Sunday! Up early to clear the workspace and dust off the bench (my wife has been using the table saw this week, no doubt everything will be under a layer of sawdust), then work some more on the F150 tow truck. I'll probably work on locating the body first, then I guess I'll make a start on the towing assembly for the back end. I might even had another go and fitting some Tamiya tyres to the RC4WD wheels to save some money. Should keep me busy all day. We've got a new season of Top Gear here in the UK, so I'll end the night with some creativity in the studio and sip a few beers while I watch some overpaid northerners take the mickey out of a fellow short Bristolian Anybody got anything exciting planned?
  15. That's the best kind of club to be in, I sometimes go along to my local club just to say hello to everyone and catch up for an hour or two. I like the social, I can take or leave the roundy-roundy bit these days Some clubs are less friendly but that tends to be the national-level clubs and big events, I've met one or two grumpy racer types but never had a bad experience at a club, I found even the Competitive Dad types are weren't too bad once I got to know them
  16. The TT01 truck class is a great place to start racing. At my closest club, it's also the class where all the people who raced for many, many years and got fed up with Keeping Up With Touring Cars have gone, so it's a class full of skilled and competitive drivers who just want to have a laugh. That makes it a great place to learn, because a) you're not having to avoid other novice drivers constantly bouncing off the barriers 2) you're not having to deal with those who are desperate to break out of the novice bracket and want to race really hard to prove themselves despite still having a few skills to learn, and iii) if you become a road block or take out the race leader you're not spoiling anyone's race since they're not taking it too seriously Pre-pandemic, my favourite tactic for overtaking was to reach out and tickle the guy next to me until he crashes. Try doing that in the boosted touring A heat! If you're racing your Cossie as well then you're in two classes? A few of us used to do that back in the day, more track time will probably help build your skills but keep an eye on it, make sure you're still enjoying it and not over-stretching yourself. I find evening race clubs can be so quick-fire there's barely time between racing and marshalling for anything else. If you run just one car you can spend more time analysing your race, watching other drivers, talking and making friends and making setup changes (although there's not much to change in a stock class). Can you change tyres in the truck class? My club insists on running kit tyres only to level the playing field, and gluing the tyre shoulders is banned. Other clubs allow this and it makes a massive difference - put a bead of superglue around the outside shoulder of the front tyres and it will reduce the tendency to tip over in corners. At my club we found the stock tyres would be pretty bad for a few weeks but gradually get better and better as they wear in. They're quite hard so they last ages. Eventually you'd have an epic set of tyres with loads of grip and control, then all of a sudden they'd wear out and you'd be back to square 1. To in a curious twist of fate, the challenge to reduce costs and level the playing field results in some cars handling much better than others because the tyres have reached that sweet spot, and if you have the money you can buy several set of wheels and tyres and use the newer ones in the practice and first two heats to get them to towards the sweet spot, then switch to your older, grippier tyres for the last heat and final. That way, when one set of tyres wears out you've got another set that are just about ready, and you don't have to languish at the back of the field for a few weeks while your new tyres come in. Oil shocks were allowed at my club, but there are oil shocks and there are oil shocks. Most racers were using TRFs, which aren't cheap. The Tamiya on road spring set gives you various options but you'll probably end up running the same as everybody else. I once thought I'd try going much stiffer on the front to lower the front grip and try to combat grip roll, but bizarrely it made it worse. It's definitely worth getting a good servo. If your servo is too fast you can always slow it down from the transmitter, if it's too slow you'll roll into corners too late and not be able to change direction in the twisties. It makes a big difference on tighter indoor tracks. You don't have to spend a fortune - I use Savox 0254MGs on my race cars. The quoted speed isn't as fast as the comparatively-priced Alturn servos, but I find the Savox to be faster and more consistent in the real world. A non-Tamiya servo saver makes a difference too, the standard one has a tendency to stick open when used with metal-splined servos.
  17. The DT03 is fantastic value, especially if it's the version that comes with CVA oil shocks (I see conflicting reports on that). The full fat DT03 (with oil shocks and adjustable top arms) is a fabulous back yard basher and can handle bigger power if you take it into an open space. Otherwise this is another one of those generic recommendation threads - what terrain do you have? How big is the area, is it mud, grass, gravel, patio, or a mix? How long is the grass? What cars do you already have, and do you want something similar or something totally different? Personally I prefer bigger wheels for garden bashing (my turf was newly laid a couple of years ago so naturally now it looks like a Roman lead mine in 1:10 scale), so I'd choose a monster truck or stadium truck, but not sure what's available in that price range. My G6-01 is probably my most-used garden truck, followed by my TLT-based 2.2 monster truck. The buggies and stadium trucks suffer too much on the grass (especially if I don't stay on top of mowing it). You might be able to get a DT-03T or Mad Bull - they don't have full-size 2.2 monster tyres but the narrow chassis slide through the grass better than a flat-tub stadium truck like a Monster Beetle. My WR-02 is good fun around the garden - the short wheel base make it very manoeuvrable in a limited space and the big tyres help it on the grass. Downside - the wheelie-happy handling makes it roll over a lot. I have an old lexan shell so I don't care it if rolls on the patio, but my daughter gets a lot of exercise putting it back on its wheels again. A 4x4 version might be better balanced and roll over less, I've never owned one. I've often thought all the stunt trucks would be better with a battery mounted lower and further forward. With a good motor they should still wheelie just as well, but roll over less.
  18. Now I must confess, I'm still not 100% sure about those big tyres. They look cool enough on the wheels, but they seem to sit a bit close and I think the stance was better with smaller tyres. I might have another go at getting some stock BFGs over the RC4WD wheels again, and if that works I might just stick with those for now - at £30 per pair it's going to cost a lot for 6 new tyres on a rig that was never meant to be hugely capable. I might even go crazy and splice some BFGs together to make super-wide tyres for the back. I don't mind chopping up old BFGs as I have a few sets lying around, they look good, they perform well enough on mud with a cut stagger pattern, and the lettering is classic Tamiya goodness. Alternatively I have identified some smaller (96mm) RC4WD tyres that should look good, if I save up the cash to buy them.
  19. I then chanced to go a-clambering upon the storage floor in my workshop, and whilst hunting around within a box of old tyres I did come across a set of RC4WD Rock Stomper X/Ts, which turned out to be the absolute maximum diameter I can fit on the rears without extending the lower links or making a new drop bracket. About 101mm. And being RC4WD tyres, they fit on the deep rims (albeit with some persuasion). These donuts are absolutely ancient - they came to me attached to a very well-used CC01, in fact my first ever CC01, well over a decade ago. They're very hard (almost as hard as the Tamiya BFGs that were on the truck before) but they haven't split or cracked at all, so they're probably still pretty good on mud. It's a shame I don't have another pair, as I could save myself some money on refitting this rig with 6 new tyres. Sadly they're long out of production, so I might have to hunt around with wanted ads to see if anyone has an old pair going spare. I wanted to get a feel for the clearance with the biggest possible tyre so I can gauge the body height, so I put two of them on the rear (they balloon out nicely over the wide rims and look pretty cool) and one on the front. Then I cut a piece of 2mm FR4 sheet where the cab will go, to act as a cab locator and to give somewhere for the electricals to go. I had to lift the cab and slide it back a bit to clear those big tyres, but I think it looks alright.
  20. Anyway... Having got the transmission at least sort of mocked-up, I turned my attention to the steering (and promptly got so involved in drilling that I forgot to take any photos. One thing I did remember to photo was the stainless threaded rod that I tried to bend by hand in the bench vice. It snapped, which bruised my finger and caused an awful lot of cursing. Anyway, never mind that, I found another piece of threaded rod and bent that instead. I also found an Axial bottom link that was almost the right size to make a drag link. It needs widening slightly, there's a bit too much toe in at the mo. I think this servo might be the broken one that came out of the BOM, but it works as a placeholder and can probably be repaired if I open it up.
  21. DMS Racing are a JConcept stockist and only in Watford. They have Renegade Jrs and Midwest 2.2 wheels in stock right now. dms-racing.com
  22. I use a punch on flat surfaces but on a tiny bit of rod, it just wants to slip off the side. I suppose with sufficient vicing and clampery it might work, but I was surprised how cleanly the 1mm bit went in. I just held it in position and lifted the drill bed until the bit was tickling the workpiece, that gave it a nice little hole. Good quality drill bits have completely changed my world.
  23. Thanks for the info / advice / offer @MadInventor, I'll definitely give you a shout if I need a shaft making. I'll probably make a new brass shaft just to prove the concept (mine is slightly too long and binds a bit) but I might also put the Ansmann transmission back in the parts bin and see if I have something else that will work, the Mad Monkey gearbox would be a great donor for a RWD buggy project or something along those lines.
  24. Then it was time to look at the transmission-to-transfer-case shaft. It's here that I realise an error in my choice of transmission. I'd grabbed it out of the Drawer of Scale And Mechanical Parts, thinking it was a spare Axial transmission that I'd got from somewhere, but when I came to unscrew the dogbone drives from the output shaft I realised they weren't actually bolted on, they were part of the diff. So this isn't an Axial at all, and that should have been fairly obvious, if I was paying attention. I think it came from an Ansmann Mad Monkey that I briefly raced, then boxed away when the diff exploded, then stripped for parts a few years ago. So this transmission has been lying around waiting for me to make something for ages. Potentially, not something scale-oriented, though... The dogbone-type drive isn't ideal due to the angle, the gear ratio might be wrong (although I can leverage the clever design of the transfer box for a bit more reduction if I need to) and, perhaps most critically, it has a ball diff, which will be hard to permanently lock. So possibly in the long term, I need to be thinking about a different transmission up front. For now though I figured it was worth forging ahead with the build, at least for a proof of concept. That meant making a dogbone. I have done this before, it's not easy without a lathe but I at least decided to mock something up, even if it wasn't perfect. So - this post is titled How to make a dogbone without a lathe or milling machine You will need some 6mm brass rod some Tamiya drive pins (the type that go into the back of 12mm wheel hexes) a really, really good 2mm drill big (and ideally some 1mm and 1.5mm bits to get started) a drill vice a drill press / bench drill / pillar drill a cordless electric drill a bench grinder, or lots and lots of patience various grades of abrasive paper 1: Cut your brass rod to approximately the right length. By approximately, I mean slightly too long. There's no point in cutting it slightly too short and then trying to add some length later, brass doesn't really work like that. 2: Clamp your rod horizontally (and I mean perfectly horizontally) in the drill vice 3: Beginning with the 1mm bit, drill a hole in the exact middle of the rod. This is the hardest part because the bit will want to wander off the edge if you haven't got it lined up right. Trying to do this will a hand-held drill is likely to end in loss of temper. Move up to the 1.5mm bit, then the 2mm. You should end up with something like this: Slip the rod into a cordless drill chuck, set it to high speed, spin up your bench grinder and then just sort of put the spinning metal against the spinning stone until you sort of end up with a sort of dogbone endy shape. If you get it right you'll have a nice dogbone endy shape. If you get it wrong you'll have this: Still, this is only supposed to be a prototype, we'll worry about doing a proper one later, possibly involving someone who has an actual lathe and isn't a complete muppet. 4: Push a drive pin into your dogbone hole and line it up in the drive cup. Check your angles. If you don't have enough range of movement, go back to the grinder and punish the metal until it fits properly. 6: Check the length of your dogbone. Now is the time to shorten it if you made it too long, or add more brass if you made it too short (if you work out how to do this, let me know) 7: Repeat steps 2-4 on the other end 8; Assemble your transmission and step back to admire your handiwork
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