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About Hopperboy

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    RC, dogs, caravanning!
  1. All good advice here but going right back to the first posting I do think that a 4000kv motor in a TL01 (especially with stock differentials) is going to be far too much power for the chassis to handle effectively. It will be pretty nasty to drive, been there and done it with a 13.5t brushless setup and it was horrible.
  2. Battery is actually a lot more protected by the exoskeleton cage than on a regular touring car. Let's be honest on something like a TRF419 the battery overhangs the chassis so the battery case is the side protection.
  3. Don't let the motor position thing get you too excited. In reality you'll probably never move the motor from the "kit" rear position. Car has tons of steering and moving the motor forward makes it hyper-sensitive.
  4. Appreciate you've bought the TA05 now and it's a lovely chassis, my TA05v2 is one of my favourite chassis. I've had my TA07 for a couple of months now and it's nice and seems quite robust. We run brushed HPI Saturn 20 motors and a Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 ESC. The motors are £9 and the speedos are about £19 UK or ish £14 on eBay. They've been utterly reliable and round a small track the lap times are within a second or so of a 17.5 brushless blinky Touring Car. The HW speedo is also Lipo compatible and you can disable the reverse function if needed. And if you want to go really fast it'll easily take a 15T HPI Firebolt motor too.
  5. Hmm, one belt? So it's got to be some sort of TA06-esque rear gearbox? Dunno now, it's got a distinct whiff of trying to be too clever and ultimately not being outstanding at anything. Bit like a TA06. Hope I'm wrong though.
  6. Love my TA05v2 to bits but it's positively antique now (although it's still competitive in the heats I run in). The TA06 was one I happily ignored as it just looks "wrong", so I've got high hopes for the TA07. Just a shame it'll probably not be available until the end of the summer so I'll have to get something else to run with for the outdoor season.
  7. Watching this with interest. I bought a Dirt Thrasher on ebay last month, I didn't even know they existed and was looking for a Manta Ray. The seller wanted £80 for it, I offered £40 and got it for £50 delivered. Came with a Techniplus radio and a wall charger for the Tamiya 7.2v nicad pack, a manual, a box, a copy of the 1996 Model Cars mag with a review of the Dirt Thrasher and best of all a Tamiya Acto Power motor that seems virtually unused and the box for it too. I put a battery in it and ran 3 packs through it at the weekend, it was brilliant. Really nice to drive. I did put a new silvercan motor in it though before I ran it, I've put the Acto into storage. It needs a good strip and clean and some bearings (its still on bushes) but I'm looking forward to running this over the winter.
  8. I saw this coming! The motor was wired up ok first time, but you transmitter was set up wrongly for the Tamiya speedo - it's a common thing. Just reverse the throttle channel, most transmitters can do this so check your manual or the Internet if its not immediately obvious how to do it. Put your motor wires back how they were first time round. Reverse always had less power than forward. You'll also notice that - when its all set up properly - when you go from forward to reverse you will need to let the throttle on your transmitter sit at neutral first before it lets you reverse, it's to allow for braking and to protect the gears. However when you are reversing you can if you wish slam it straight forwards with no delay. Good luck.
  9. Can anybody suggest some suitable replacement rear shocks or even just some softer springs so I can actually get some rear suspension rather just having the back end buck around like a bronco on speed. Some slightly stiffer front springs would be nice too but I'd settle for some rear end travel right now.
  10. Had mine for a couple of weeks now, just no time to put it together. Plus I have a 99% finished original new build in a box somewhere and a sound but well used original runner that I've just put a new gearbox in so I just don't have the motivation to start on the re-re yet. Oh and when I did get a spare afternoon I decided to throw together an M06 to see what they're like out of curiosity.
  11. I got sick of my 03 throwing its battery out after a crash so I put a pair of the much more secure stoppers on from an M05 which was fine with my NiMh cells but now I want to run my LiPo packs. Trouble is both are Orions, a 4000 IBS Rocketpack and a 4200 Rocketsport and they're too long. If I space the stoppers out by 5mm they will fit but then the stopper looses a lot of stability and wobbles around more than I'm comfortable with. Can anybody recommend a set of LiPos that'll fit snugly in the stock configuration? The Jamara 5000 pack looks ideal but its too expensive and looks difficult to get here in the UK.
  12. West Bridgford is too much of a trek round Nottingham for me, prefer Broxtowe as its a straight run off the M1 but both are popular. I wouldn't worry too much about whether anyone is a member on TC, I know there is / was a good Tamiya mini cluster at Bridgford.
  13. Mardave or an M-chassis would be my vote. At Broxtowe (off J27 M1 on Saturdays) there's alway a healthy heat or two of Minis and they take some serious abuse.
  14. Having gone from an M03 to a blinged M03R then to a similar M05 Pro and back to my M03R again I am now getting the building bug again and have an FF03 Pro on my list for consideration. Question is, is it any good. It will be used in the local club's indoor carpet track and I am thinking of using a brushless setup, probably a 17.5T or a 19T. I can't really find any comprehensive reviews on the 'net about the FF03 other than a comment on rc-mini.net saying it was the worst racecar the reviewer had run, but in the same piece he went on to say that a "developed" one was OK. So, what do you guys think? Is it worth it or should I look elsewhere?
  15. Going a bit (lot) off topic here but I don't think re-tooling for that chassis would cost an awful lot really, it wasn't exactly the last word in complexity was it, fold here, fold there, cut this bit off and drill a hole here here and here, job done. And most of the bits are still available from Tower (so one would assume there is a factory somewhere still churning them out) and whats not can be relatively easily adapted from current tech in Associated's parts bins. I think they haven't bothered because they don't look to the past and are making a decent return from selling "current" stuff. That being said, if the world suddenly stopped buying B4 4.1's and suchlike I suppose they'd have a rethink.
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