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super gripper

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About super gripper

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  • Birthday 09/01/1973

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    I can't get enough of racing my TRF502x and TRF201 Vega. After all they are race cars and it does say RC on the box!!

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  1. Event Cancelled due to very few people booking in the event has been cancelled.
  2. WTS - Tamiya Porsche 934 Jagermiester 84431 and Black Edition 47362. Both are new in box and complete 84431 £260 plus tracked and fully insured postage ( UK only) 47362 £175 plus tracked and fully insured postage ( UK only) no offers, prices are as low as I will go.
  3. DT Challenge 2018 7th October New venue this year …………. Swindon RC Car Club hosting Same Rules as previous years with the DT01 class now open to all DT01 cars (last year was just the Madbull) 20 places now available for the Hotshot gearbox cars …………. check out the rules and more info on the DT02/03 Facebook page
  4. Plenty of Tamiya's get raced every year ……………….here are mine. Pictures from this years holiday.
  5. If you are going to club race don't even bother with the DT03, it has no slipper clutch option and the limited slip ball diff option can only handle low power motors. You would have to spend the earth to even get it remotely competitive and unless your driving skills are very high you are wasting yout time with a DT03. To club race you need a half decent car which the DT03 is not. If you don't want to spend mega bucks look else where that Schumacher - try team C
  6. the 'venue' is on Haven Holiday property so no in answer to your question. - the tracks are put up only once a year. The rest of the time the tarmac area has caravans parked on it and the grassed area has car parked on it.
  7. oh and we have two heats of stock grasshoppers every year - which is always super fun …………..
  8. There is already a week long RC car holiday every year in May - it is at Primrose valley Yorkshire. We run run/race 2 dedicated Tamiya heats. Tamiya Mini's and Tamiya trucks. I only race Tamiya so I race my off road tamiya's. You can race any cars in the classes, we have touring cars as well. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1819705901690480/
  9. building ball diff's is an art in itself. I have a ridiculous amount of experience building and setting up Tamiya ball diff's. Build the ball diff exactly as per the Tamiya instructions but I recommend using Associated ball diff lube as it is slightly thicker than the Tamiya stuff - the Tamiya one goes very running almost like water when it gets hot. The AE stuff stays where you need it for longer - at no point should you ever believe that once the ball diff is built is a forget thing - it will require a full strip and rebuild after about 25 - 30 runs. The 6 screws that hold the rear gearbox cover piece on change to 3mm hex bolts as you will be in and out of there plenty. - the same goes for the centre section. - Right in answer to your tightness question. - build it as per kit instructions. when you hold the ball diff you should be able to turn it holding the exits and it should feel stiff - if it grinds then it is too tight - next fit it in the car and put the car back together - once all back together when you hold one wheel and turn so you rotate the ball diff it should feel smooth but tight - when you try and spin it by hand the wheel should only remote half a turn ……………… hope all this helps - reading what you say you are testing wrongly - hold the spur only - hold the left or right wheel and spin it - the diff should only rotate half a turn once you let go
  10. do not slacken the slipper right off you will cook it. Run the slipper as per the manual - also bin the DB01 diff parts and get the trf501x one piece diff halves - I know what I am talking about people - picture of my race winning DB01R …………… I race a TRF502x now.
  11. I build ball diff's for people, I get them in the post all the time. Tamiya ball diff's are awesome but people run them too loose. Also do not get the gear diff's they are pants unless you spends lots of money on them - running around in your garden won't tax them but if you race they break - a lot …………….and yes you should have been using a 19 tooth pinion on a 91 spur gear - yes I am a racer !
  12. If you do feel the need for using them, I would suggest you start with the thinnest one. The hardest thing to do is matching your shock absorber settings with the bars. You could run the car with the bars connected and then pop the ball joints on the bars and see if the car runs better or not. That way you won't have to completely remove the bars to see if there is any difference. A few years ago at the Iconic Revival (A1 Grantham Astro track) people were complaining that the cars were grip rolling - I think the car was a Terra Scorcher. We popped the bars at the ball joints and the TS ran like a dream. Anti roll bars went in the bin. Maybe they should of gone on Ebay but they were thrown in the nearest dustbin.
  13. wasn't meant to be -but then I am not a very pc person so I am not bothered. Free Country to say what I like. As an ex-serviceman who saw his mates get blown to bits in the name of 'freedom' Do not care if people are 'offended'
  14. Glad this sparked some interest. Buggies require the suspension to be fully independent especially on very bumpy tracks otherwise the car will just dance over the top of them On high grip surfaces such as Astro you will just constantly grip roll. Tamiya made the anti roll bars for the Fighter cup series where the speeds are slow and they run on 75% on road track and 25% off road - well its not even off road Look it up and Watch the video's on YouTube. The Fighter Cup is also done in Germany On a buggy you can call them 'roll over bars' cos that's all your buggy will do ! Bigger scales such as the heavy 8th cars do use them, but they are not very thick. Big thick anti roll bars make your buggy handle like crap Remember this is a 10th scale light weight thing and has no resemblance to a real car I race my TRF buggies and never ever do I fit any anti roll bars
  15. Never ever fit anti roll bars to any buggy ! Unless it is lowered and run on a road track ............................
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