Jump to content

djmcnz

Members
  • Content Count

    1735
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

739 Excellent

About djmcnz

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday May 17

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    ~NZL~

Recent Profile Visitors

4877 profile views
  1. This is very sad news, gone but never forgotten @Shodog, may you rest in peace and may your loved ones quickly find peace. Whilst this is a terrible loss I'm so glad I didn't read it was Covid, rather it sounds as if he was doing something he loved. 🙏
  2. Looks like a DF01 buggy setup to me (Manta Ray, Blazing Star, Dirt Thrasher). DF01 is effectively the buggy version of the TA01.
  3. They're great for cleaning stripped diffs... to clean a diff that's had oil or grease in it by hand is a thankless, time consuming, maddening task. With an ultrasonic cleaner and a dilution of degreaser it's a trivial job (and very satisfying).
  4. Nothing exciting but I installed 4 x 48.5mm Ti Coated Suspension Shafts in my Hopped-Up M05 Pro which I think is the end of that journey, it has over 40 Tamiya Hop-Ups installed now (who knew there were that many for an M-Chassis?!?). If I find a set of 49308 TRF Damper Aluminium Top Ends for a sensible price I might nab them but they seem unobtainable at the moment. Otherwise I don't think I can install any more Hop-Ups on this chassis. I actually thought I'd completed this chassis 11 years ago now... I still hold @berman accountable for this recent extra spend! 😉
  5. @BuggyDad - your current power switch is two switches (that, I think you know). The red and black wires are for on/off and the white wire is for the settings and is a momentary switch (although it will presumably need a power signal from the red wire also, unless they're using the black wire to ground the connection but that would be unusual). You don't need to replace them with an integrated unit, you can deploy two separate switches. Snip off switch and connect the red and black to practically any low voltage switch you prefer, in the pics below you can see I've used a very, very robust toggle switch and it's fantastic, easy to use, very safe and bullet proof. Then you can use pretty much any momentary switch you like, you tap into the red wire and use that with the white (signal) wire, both connected to the momentary switch. On the off chance that the black wire is used this can be easily tested before soldering. The benefit of this approach is that you can then locate your power switch and settings switch (button) in different locations and with different wire lengths which is actually quite useful.
  6. FWIW, I never look at the main site trades, only the forum, I'm not sure if you can do Q&A on the main site and I need that, and not via PM, I want public replies to my purchase enquiries. I used to keep an active eye on the main site trades section via the very useful RSS feed but that seems to have gone dead, it certainly went silent on me (years ago now). Pity.
  7. Yeah, standard brand tools would be far more sensible from a cost perspective, I have Teng tools for my 1:1 endeavours, including hex drivers and compared to RC branded tools they're 1/5 of the price... and probably higher quality. Having said that... my 1:10 hex drivers are LRP branded and probably silly expensive (can't remember)... doh! 🙄😂 But hey, ~15 years in they're still fine.
  8. I don't think I've ever changed the pistons... 3 holes every time and I use different weight oil if needed... I'm pretty sure I'm not good (or consistent) enough to notice the difference in the number of holes!
  9. As I said, it doesn't look like it will fit a full length battery without modification. 😉
  10. So this confirms the transverse battery possibility but it doesn't look like the Avante body can accommodate a full length battery that way, and the Astute body doesn't look like it will fit over the Avante front end. If this is correct some body modding could be required unless they release a different shell for the Avante.
  11. My ~13yo charger recently died, I tried to revive it but couldn't, until I tried again a few weeks later and succeeded. I'm not sure how long it will last but I'd say if you're getting a decade or more out of almost any electronic device these days you''re doing well.
  12. To be honest I find it quite incredible that you're actually able to to find what you need in NZ and get it shipped internationally. Which store are you buying from?
  13. Generally I agree with the above advice, they're not going to make a huge difference to a backyard basher with the following exceptions IMO: Top Force isn't ball raced, Evo is and that's a huge improvement Evo comes with 4 x universals, IIRC the TF only comes with fronts, that's a helpful upgrade Standard TF comes with soft metal outdrives, Evo hardened ones are much better, the soft ones will notch quickly I much prefer turnbuckles and would even recommend them for a basher, standard TF doesn't come with them Thrust bearings are the only upgrade I'd recommend for the stock TF diffs The other differences are nice enhancements but ultimately unnecessary. YMMV of course. Most part numbers listed here:
×
×
  • Create New...