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About djmcnz

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  1. I missed this earlier, that's real pretty. 😎
  2. That's brave with the solid curb! Hold the phone the right way next time, we see the world in widescreen after all. 😉
  3. That looks very good indeed.
  4. You'd add a terrible amount of drag and a multi-viscosity 1:1 oil would never get up to operating temp in a 1:10 (~100*C). The additives might also break down some of your internal components. It you wanted to go wet (which I don't think is a good idea) you'd be better off using very thin RC diff oil.
  5. Put it on TradeMe for $1 reserve? 😉 The super expensive eBay ones, like other vintage buggies, simply don't sell, they're speculative posts waiting for a new lottery winner. Most of these get passed on by private treaty and for a lot less than those headline prices. My NIB vintage Egress is probably worth about US$1000 via non-commercial channels if it were for sale, my Top Force Evolution about the same. I'd put a vintage Avante in that ballpark, possibly a bit less because the Egress ultimately eclipsed it. A Techigold would bump it back up. The fact that their values have hardly changed in a decade is telling, they're not a lucrative investment.
  6. Good question, you could exchange the entire chassis if you wanted, front and rear gearboxes are interchangeable across vehicles. But it would be a pity to ruin the Evo. You'd need those TM chassis plates plus re-re Top Force/Evo J parts and an E bag, plus some general hardware, to convert the TC to carbon double deck.
  7. This one: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/toys-models/radio-control-robots/parts-accessories/chassis-frames/listing/3257256202?bof=6m8jL82p But I've just realised it's not the full conversion, only the plates so it's not going to be enough, you'd need a bunch of Top Force parts (namely J parts and alu chassis posts) which I'm sure you could pick up on eBay these days but that's probably becoming uneconomic. Sorry to mislead!
  8. OMG, those beautiful vintage blisters... and an included 01R!!! Even the Egress, Top Force, and Evolution didn't come with a motor, let alone a legendary motor and Tamiya's first ever numbered Hop-Up! Did you realise there's a NIB DF01 carbon chassis on TradeMe at the moment? It's not cheap but a vintage Terra Conqueror might actually deserve it.
  9. This seems most likely. If the bolt (it's not a screw) spins freely as you say then it's not binding on the shank. You should be able to press it out from the back with some pliers... one of the tips on the end of the bolt and the other somewhere where you can get purchase (perhaps on the inside of that alu part, lower than the bolt) and squeeze. As long as the purchase point is secure you can't break anything.
  10. Actually, if they did either of those things it would be great.
  11. That's not cool, I'm sorry you had that experience. Don't be dissuaded and you don't need a club to have fun when you're starting out, stick in there.
  12. Yes, don't cut up any wheels! I should have noticed they were clamp type, sorry, forget my idea. I'm starting to think that not screwing the chassis together properly has allowed one of the internal (1150) bearings or even the diff to dislodge causing an internal misalignment, possibly exacerbated by tightening up the wheel (which draws the UK out further)... otherwise pretty stumped. When I'm stumped I normally tear it down.
  13. A sound process of elimination typically bears fruit, good work. Since the 7mmm hex didn't fix it then it's not the wheel, or wheel/hex interface, it's most likely to be the hex to hub interface or something contributing to that interface. If you have some clamp type hexes, perhaps on a different vehicle, you can do them up tight with no wheels and retest with a clear line of sight.
  14. Don't buy any new parts until you know what the problem is, especially a gyro which is surely unnecessary on a M chassis with a reasonable motor. As somebody mentioned on the first page, put it on a work stand and eyeball it under various throttle conditions, if as you say it happens regularly you should be able to see it happen. Prop the suspension arms up to normal ride height. Set your phone up to video the front wheels (on the stand) at 60+ FPS so you can slow it down if necessary. Swap everything left to right and try it again, does it veer left instead now? Everything that's not asymmetric e.g., shocks, links, bearings, wheels, tyres, everything. An unbalanced wheel might be impossible to diagnose unless you swap it to the other side and observe erratic behaviour following it (for example). That will eliminate said components which will allow you to narrow your focus. What about slop? Is it the same on both sides? Can you add shims if you do have some slop (which is almost inevitable on an M05)? Don't buy any new parts until you know what the problem is.
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