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About djmcnz

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  • Birthday 05/17/1972

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  1. High quality and inspiring build thread, props. I need to haul out my NIB TA02 kits and bits and decide what to do with them all!
  2. I sure do take requests if you provide the kit and Hop Ups... Although I don't think I ever started this build, the parts must be in a box somewhere... are they're all originals, not re-re.
  3. Yes, DB02 ^ thanks for the reminder. Apparently not well loved but it possibly got a hard time only because the '01 was simply so good. The DB02 is less expensive and I assume takes all the 502 Hop-Ups? Depends on what you want to spend... always the question!
  4. In my opinion... All of the TRF buggies remain competitive today, some a little more than others but to notice a real difference between very top end buggies (any brand) you'd need to be in the top 5% of drivers AND have an effective setup. And setup is the bigger challenge at this end of the game and it makes more difference than any reasonable chassis will. The higher end the buggy (or touring car for that matter) the more involved is the setup required to get the best performance and, unless you're a racer, it's hard to justify the time, knowledge and effort involved (a LOT of each). You don't want to pay for a highly configurable buggy only to ever leave it at kit settings. If you don't know how to set two ball diffs and a slipper in concert as well as what weight oil to put in your shocks for any given surface... and then realise you need multiple sets of shocks lol... then you're wasting money on features you won't use. Personally I'd start by deciding between shaft (low maintenance) and belt drive (high efficiency) rather than what might offer the ultimate speed. A shaft driven car is the much smarter choice for somebody that doesn't really know what they want. I prefer belt now but only after I'd raced shaft for 10 years or so. And belts can become expensive (TRF = exposed diffs grrr). That price for the 502 is sharp and it's a great kit (you'll need to add tyres) and it's shaft driven but it may be overwhelming. The bling is powerful in this one though. I've always admired the DB01, even when I had a 501X and then the 511 because it's more than most people will ever need and well priced - the DB01(XYZ) is absolutely NOT entry level and with the right driver can outperform a TRF buggy. It's easy to set up to go quick, very low maintenance (compared to the TRF's) and highly upgradeable/configurable when you want to add performance/features/bling because almost every TRF bit fits. Is there a shaft driven equivalent of the DB01 that accepts the same Hop-Ups? Forgive me, that's a gap in my knowledge but if there was, and I was starting out and aiming to build up to racing, that's what I'd get.
  5. 53217 for ball diffs and 53218 for gear diffs. Not expensive on eBay or from the likes of RCMart... grab a few sets because once they're gone I doubt we'll ever see them again (from Tamiya at least).
  6. I ran a 13x2 back in the day relentlessly on two TFE chassis' (admittedly on NiCad packs) and never had a problem with the (ball) diffs or (hard) cups... if you're running a 1990's buggy with more power than that then you're going to have way more problems than this cement will fix! I still don't believe it's necessary but yes, I imagine threadlock will work just fine... heck, a thick grease is probably enough. I'm still not convinced it's a real-world problem.
  7. Well, that's certainly new (to me). IIRC that's the splined part of the shaft so there's not going to be any rotational play. The only real reason to use cement there would be to stop the cups falling out if the dogbones were ejected. Now dogbone ejection is actually quite common on these but the (proper) solution is to use universals rather than glue lol. I can't believe Tamiya suggested cement... diff maintenance would become even more troublesome. You don't need it, don't apply it. Either deal with the occasional ejection (and don't run the buggy with no shafts) or replace the dogbones with uni shafts (and hard cups because the soft kit ones are terrible).
  8. Yeah, I don't get it either - why they're so expensive? I also assumed they all came with MFC's and lights but apparently they come with neither?!? So it's not clear to me where the money goes. Also, the trailers, exactly, why are they 2/3 of the cost of the whole truck??? I do like how they look but I think you'd be lucky for get away with NZ$2000 if you wanted a fully functioning one, perhaps NZ$3500 which is just plain stupid. You'd have more fun with a semi-professional drone for that money.
  9. No, if you have Top Force (DF/TA/01/02) ball diffs use them, if you need new ball diffs get the TA03 ones. Edit: if you're going to use a quick motor like a 8.5 or lower then you might want to use a gear diff (e.g. Manta Ray) with grease up front, if you can find a good balance with that it's zero setup and maintenance and more predictable if you add a one-way or torque splitter.
  10. Here's an example at US$15 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-Top-Force-Universal-Shaft-Silver-1-10-RC-Cars-Buggy-Off-Road-14135028/132298212565 Edit: Seller is rcmart so safe to buy from. Edit 2: 53267 ball diff is available for less than GBP15
  11. Yep, wrong number. Few on eBay, you should be able to pick up 2 for less than US$10 - they make the build easier and are much, much, much more durable. I can't comment on the newer type but if they're the correct length then I'd go for those. The originals are still available (part number 14135028) but they are pricey...
  12. Only just saw this... I agree with most of the above. You need an alu motor mount, any brand will do (any TA/DF/01/02 one will fit) Yeah Racing, GPM, etc. The kit ball diffs are fine if you want to save some money, just upgrade to 53136 for both Kit prop shaft is hardened steel but will probably bend as soon as you hit something front-on so it pays to know what you'll replace it with Don't worry about a front one-way or torque splitter until you've run it some and then decide, you're unlikely to need either IMHO Rear universal (CV) shafts are a worthwhile upgrade, again brand doesn't particularly matter in this case (as long as they fit) Rather than the alu hexes I got you're better off getting the alu clamp type ones that are now out there, measure your kit plastic ones, I think (?) they're 5mm and not 6mm Shocks - I can't make any recommendations here I'm afraid, I haven't used any others Full bearings obviously With a 7.5 (!) or even an 8.5 you'll absolutely need to reinforce the rear gearbox so read up on that here too. Almost everything else in my build thread is 'bling' although some of the alu GPM parts are inexpensive enough that they can be worthwhile, especially at the front (C-hubs, knuckles, gearbox bottom). It's a fun build and a very reliable and simple to operate chassis, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
  13. IIRC it's a LRP branded Sanwa/Airtronics FHSS Tx so I suspect it is Futaba compatible. I can't get back to you immediately but send me a PM and tell me the story about the loaner buggies.
  14. Today I mashed wires to the new 55T motor for my High-Lift and I say mashed because my soldering iron tip is dead and I literally had to mash the wire/solder/terminal to get it to hold. I'll fix that up when I get a new tip, it looks like a 5yo did it at the moment. Anyway, 55T is much closer to my requirements than the 35T was although in 1st gear it's still fast enough to do serious damage to itself or anything it hits. But I'm satisfied with the speed of 2nd gear which is what I was aiming for because that's where the stick rests and the gear I'll use the most. 3rd is now a really good gear for trying to find traction so altogether a very good decision to get the 55. Still not painted... I once purchased a Tx on heavy discount just for the receiver, pistol is still in the box some 10 years later.
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