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Okay, so I'm not going mad. If people are uploading 8MB images that needs to be addressed, that's ridiculous. Netiquette used to be a thing, where's that gone? And yes @Mad Ax - if you're posting hi-res pictures you're contributing to the problem... I don't think a forum needs anything more than ~1024x768 really, hi-res can always be 'provided upon request' if you have them in stock. We'll save time, bandwidth, storage, money (and polar bears) if a rule to restrict images to ~1.5MB each was introduced, how do we promote that suggestion? Edit: here's a good example of a page, with not-so-large images, that doesn't pre-load... https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/98715-tamiya-trf419xr-42316-ultimate-bundle-£1140-ovno/ and if you click on an image to bring up the browse window, you can't even navigate to images that haven't loaded. Something is broken... happy to accept it's at my end if somebody can explain what I need to change in Chrome for Windows but I only have this problem on this site.

This is a bit of a flummox for me because I'm a tech guy but can't work it out. Why do images on pages here not pre-load for the whole page? I can't find the setting. It seems that I actually need to scroll to an image to load it, this means reading image intensive pages takes an extraordinary amount of time because as I scroll to new images I have to wait for them to load. I have no bandwidth restrictions, if I open a page, especially in a background tab, I expect it to load fully, including images, in the background. If I open an image intensive page I expect it to load all of the images in order, even if I'm paused on the first/top post reading the text. That doesn't happen here and it's a really painful time waster. What am I missing? How do I fix that? I am a member of other Invision communities that don't exhibit this strange behaviour. Admittedly I'm only a casual contributor but it's a really irritating experience. Thanks in anticipation of your tips/guidance!

Woah... https://www.ebay.com/itm/254967501368

I agree with so much here, let me unpack that... I'm an off-roader, I have more than 10 on-road cars but I've always had off-road racing as the spine of my involvement in the hobby since racing Top Force Evo's back in the early 90's. My return to racing was nearly 20 years later (!) in an 501X (terrible race car) and then 511's (I think I had 4 race chassis, fantastic buggy). The 511, especially with the upgrade kit, will still out-perform most drivers. I'd be willing to put a 511 up against a more modern buggy, the difference would be negligible. The problem with them now is spares, they're expensive if you can find them... even aluminium bends eventually. I don't get the demise of the TRF buggy journey, as it's been mentioned above you design one good chassis, have a TRF version, a PRO version and a Stock version with a flood of spares and Hop-Up that are interchangeable across all versions. I'm sure, in modern form, they'd sell well even if they weren't winning every meet. It makes me a bit sad... but it also means I have the best buggy Tamiya has ever released.

Got a Dyna Storm that's going into or something different?

This. Fantastic chassis. A few NIB's on eBay right now for not unreasonable numbers.

M is for Mini? M01 Stock + Bearings + RC Channel Alloy Wheels M03 Stock + Bearings + RC Channel Alloy Wheels M05 Pro (Blue) + Almost all available Hop-Ups Sitting Pretty Plus I think I have 2 x NIB M01's (somewhere).

The hard TA/DF prop shaft wasn't really as much a Hop-Up as it was a necessity! The standard one was as strong as a wet noodle. 😂 Even then it wasn't difficult to bend the hard ones, the drive cups were the best part of the kit Does it look like the new turnbuckles are mild steel? IIRC the originals are aluminium. The new ones look painted more than they do anodised don't you think? This TFE re-re news pleases me somewhat, my two NIB originals (plus a shelf queen and a full standard TF conversion) will hold their value... not that I own them to sell.

Wow, I pop in once and a while (every few years) and there's something else for me to consider (he says whilst looking at his 40th Anniversary Porsche). I suppose a TFE rere was inevitable since Tamiya seem to have given up on leading the pack. It's an expensive proposition though and since it's not identical to the original I wonder where the value is? The Avante/Egress rere's make sense, they're a unique build experience (like a Scorcher or Hi-Lift) but the TFE is really just a standard DF/TA/01/02 build for the most part, with the carryover chassis and drivetrain fragilities, much more than a 13x2 will blow up the gearbox. But heck, I'm still considering one to add to the original collection I have (1 x runner, 1 x TF conversion, 1 x shelfer, 2 x NIB), and if nothing else the reintroduction will bump the spare parts supply chain. For those thinking of buying and running one then be aware that you'll probably get the same enjoyment, and more track success, for a lower cost, by getting a more modern buggy and a plain old TA02 to build for the experience. But don't let me dissuade you, the TFE will always have a special place in my heart.

High quality and inspiring build thread, props. I need to haul out my NIB TA02 kits and bits and decide what to do with them all!

I sure do take requests if you provide the kit and Hop Ups... Although I don't think I ever started this build, the parts must be in a box somewhere... are they're all originals, not re-re.

Yes, DB02 ^ thanks for the reminder. Apparently not well loved but it possibly got a hard time only because the '01 was simply so good. The DB02 is less expensive and I assume takes all the 502 Hop-Ups? Depends on what you want to spend... always the question!

In my opinion... All of the TRF buggies remain competitive today, some a little more than others but to notice a real difference between very top end buggies (any brand) you'd need to be in the top 5% of drivers AND have an effective setup. And setup is the bigger challenge at this end of the game and it makes more difference than any reasonable chassis will. The higher end the buggy (or touring car for that matter) the more involved is the setup required to get the best performance and, unless you're a racer, it's hard to justify the time, knowledge and effort involved (a LOT of each). You don't want to pay for a highly configurable buggy only to ever leave it at kit settings. If you don't know how to set two ball diffs and a slipper in concert as well as what weight oil to put in your shocks for any given surface... and then realise you need multiple sets of shocks lol... then you're wasting money on features you won't use. Personally I'd start by deciding between shaft (low maintenance) and belt drive (high efficiency) rather than what might offer the ultimate speed. A shaft driven car is the much smarter choice for somebody that doesn't really know what they want. I prefer belt now but only after I'd raced shaft for 10 years or so. And belts can become expensive (TRF = exposed diffs grrr). That price for the 502 is sharp and it's a great kit (you'll need to add tyres) and it's shaft driven but it may be overwhelming. The bling is powerful in this one though. I've always admired the DB01, even when I had a 501X and then the 511 because it's more than most people will ever need and well priced - the DB01(XYZ) is absolutely NOT entry level and with the right driver can outperform a TRF buggy. It's easy to set up to go quick, very low maintenance (compared to the TRF's) and highly upgradeable/configurable when you want to add performance/features/bling because almost every TRF bit fits. Is there a shaft driven equivalent of the DB01 that accepts the same Hop-Ups? Forgive me, that's a gap in my knowledge but if there was, and I was starting out and aiming to build up to racing, that's what I'd get.

53217 for ball diffs and 53218 for gear diffs. Not expensive on eBay or from the likes of RCMart... grab a few sets because once they're gone I doubt we'll ever see them again (from Tamiya at least).

I ran a 13x2 back in the day relentlessly on two TFE chassis' (admittedly on NiCad packs) and never had a problem with the (ball) diffs or (hard) cups... if you're running a 1990's buggy with more power than that then you're going to have way more problems than this cement will fix! I still don't believe it's necessary but yes, I imagine threadlock will work just fine... heck, a thick grease is probably enough. I'm still not convinced it's a real-world problem.

Well, that's certainly new (to me). IIRC that's the splined part of the shaft so there's not going to be any rotational play. The only real reason to use cement there would be to stop the cups falling out if the dogbones were ejected. Now dogbone ejection is actually quite common on these but the (proper) solution is to use universals rather than glue lol. I can't believe Tamiya suggested cement... diff maintenance would become even more troublesome. You don't need it, don't apply it. Either deal with the occasional ejection (and don't run the buggy with no shafts) or replace the dogbones with uni shafts (and hard cups because the soft kit ones are terrible).

Wut? Pic of instructions?

Yeah, I don't get it either - why they're so expensive? I also assumed they all came with MFC's and lights but apparently they come with neither?!? So it's not clear to me where the money goes. Also, the trailers, exactly, why are they 2/3 of the cost of the whole truck??? I do like how they look but I think you'd be lucky for get away with NZ$2000 if you wanted a fully functioning one, perhaps NZ$3500 which is just plain stupid. You'd have more fun with a semi-professional drone for that money.

No, if you have Top Force (DF/TA/01/02) ball diffs use them, if you need new ball diffs get the TA03 ones. Edit: if you're going to use a quick motor like a 8.5 or lower then you might want to use a gear diff (e.g. Manta Ray) with grease up front, if you can find a good balance with that it's zero setup and maintenance and more predictable if you add a one-way or torque splitter.

Here's an example at US$15 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-Top-Force-Universal-Shaft-Silver-1-10-RC-Cars-Buggy-Off-Road-14135028/132298212565 Edit: Seller is rcmart so safe to buy from. Edit 2: 53267 ball diff is available for less than GBP15

Yep, wrong number. Few on eBay, you should be able to pick up 2 for less than US$10 - they make the build easier and are much, much, much more durable. I can't comment on the newer type but if they're the correct length then I'd go for those. The originals are still available (part number 14135028) but they are pricey...

Only just saw this... I agree with most of the above. You need an alu motor mount, any brand will do (any TA/DF/01/02 one will fit) Yeah Racing, GPM, etc. The kit ball diffs are fine if you want to save some money, just upgrade to 53136 for both Kit prop shaft is hardened steel but will probably bend as soon as you hit something front-on so it pays to know what you'll replace it with Don't worry about a front one-way or torque splitter until you've run it some and then decide, you're unlikely to need either IMHO Rear universal (CV) shafts are a worthwhile upgrade, again brand doesn't particularly matter in this case (as long as they fit) Rather than the alu hexes I got you're better off getting the alu clamp type ones that are now out there, measure your kit plastic ones, I think (?) they're 5mm and not 6mm Shocks - I can't make any recommendations here I'm afraid, I haven't used any others Full bearings obviously With a 7.5 (!) or even an 8.5 you'll absolutely need to reinforce the rear gearbox so read up on that here too. Almost everything else in my build thread is 'bling' although some of the alu GPM parts are inexpensive enough that they can be worthwhile, especially at the front (C-hubs, knuckles, gearbox bottom). It's a fun build and a very reliable and simple to operate chassis, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

IIRC it's a LRP branded Sanwa/Airtronics FHSS Tx so I suspect it is Futaba compatible. I can't get back to you immediately but send me a PM and tell me the story about the loaner buggies.

Today I mashed wires to the new 55T motor for my High-Lift and I say mashed because my soldering iron tip is dead and I literally had to mash the wire/solder/terminal to get it to hold. I'll fix that up when I get a new tip, it looks like a 5yo did it at the moment. Anyway, 55T is much closer to my requirements than the 35T was although in 1st gear it's still fast enough to do serious damage to itself or anything it hits. But I'm satisfied with the speed of 2nd gear which is what I was aiming for because that's where the stick rests and the gear I'll use the most. 3rd is now a really good gear for trying to find traction so altogether a very good decision to get the 55. Still not painted... I once purchased a Tx on heavy discount just for the receiver, pistol is still in the box some 10 years later.

I also occasionally encounter this and the timeframe does seem inconsistent.