djmcnz

911 GT2 (as in the Taisan Starrcard) Porsche requires the SW body, as does the 934 shell (and even then the 934 doesn't fit properly). Converting a TA02 to SW is easy enough though, you just need SW rear arms and different offset wheels, both readily available because of the slew of SW rere's.

Ha, I could only see it after you pointed it out. I'll have to look at the decals I have, I got my Vaillant stickers from Tamico when they released the Black Edition and I can't remember what's in the pack.

Not too pale IMHO, that really does look good, the attention to detail is enviable and that colour makes it instantly recognisable, much better than the PS-3!. I have a couple of Porsches to sort out, after a trio of buggies! 🙄😁

Hey folks, does anybody have any experience with the subject charger? My trusty first gen B6 has passed away and I've not been able to revive it so am in the market. ISDT seem to have a good rep and the 608AC seems unreasonably inexpensive for what it is. Although I have a power supply I'd like AC connectivity for the convenience. Other than the fact that all my batteries are Deans and the charger is XT60 (I would get an adapter), is there anything else I should know, research or consider before pulling the trigger?

Just chiming in to say I have 4YWD for my Hi-Lift and I'm happy with it. There are certainly better Tx's out there but for what I need, the Futaba was a perfect match and budget appropriate. Tamiya rebrand them and sell them under their "Attack" brand I think (at an elevated price).

That looks amazing @Juhunio!

3 is tough, I'd try and get a broad experience: A SRB (or derivative) of choice A 3 speed (vintage, Hi-Lift, big rig etc) Any TRF vehicle (pick your poison) 👍

Yep, 1/24 static and I agree with you. I added a polite feedback comment highlighting the inadequate packaging and gave 4 stars for condition instead of 5... they'll probably block me, most eBay sellers seem to block those that provide less than 5 stars instead of being accountable for their failures. I won't lose any sleep over it but I'm sure we all appreciate a faultless acquisition.

Happy and sad. Happy that this has arrived but sad that a relatively soft box was sent in a simple plastic shipping envelope with no additional protection. How did the seller think that would survive international shipping? Well it didn't and the box is in a poorly state, it's not terminal but I like my new stuff, especially if it's expensive, to arrive in new condition.

Yeah, that will be too heavy and will cause unwanted drag. I'd clean it off and use some ceramic grease instead, you need very little on well-meshed gears.

Welcome WideOpen, sounds like your attic is a treasure trove! If you need random bits and pieces be sure to post up a thread or even ask in this one, you might be surprised as what people have stashed away.

I certainly wouldn't say a 5.5 won't work or is the wrong decision, nobody knows until we actually get to see, build and use the vehicle. What I can say from experience, I have a powerful 6.5 in my TRF511u, is that a 5.5 will stress everything. Motor mount, gears, diffs, outdrives, dogbones/uj's, axles, hubs, tyres and even the glue you use to keep the tyres on. Anything plastic will break. Having said that, if it stays together and you have enough space (solid objects are a killer with that amount of power), then it will be a total blast! Do be aware though with more power comes more air and harder landings and you'll 1000000% need a slipper, lots of clutch pads and at least a ball diff in the rear (drivetrain seems to directly link front and rear drive so no double slipper option) with very good, probably ceramic or tungsten, thrust balls (wet, sealed gear diff up front will be fine). Prepare all that stuff before you commence the build. Get the diff or the slipper wrong and it will take less than 60 seconds to destroy them with that amount of power (ask me how I know!). And be sure to make videos, lots of videos. 💪

A "better than boxart" bumper for my Fighting Buggy... although I understand the function, I can't stand the look of the standard SRB bumpers... Tamiya changed it up for the boxart on the Sand Scorcher but then just threw in the towel on the others, thanks for the effort Tamiya. 😂 I wanted some alloy wheels from a well known seller/manufacturer and was happy with the price but they wanted US$48 for shipping which is BS, the true cost is about US$12 so I said no. It will go in the box until I'm ready to build.

I seem to have killed my charger by plugging in a 30 year old 1400mAh NiCd Tamiya Racing Pack... it started charging and then when I checked it 10 mins later the display was dead and it doesn't power up... buger. It's a very agricultural setup that runs off a separate power supply but it's never failed me before in the 15+ years I've used it. I'll have to take it apart before determining its fate. I was going to see what runtime I could get in my Hi-Lift with the 1400 (I'm thinking about 3 minutes)... now they're all going in the bin!

Each step, especially the earlier ones, requires parts from multiple bags, the required bags are listed next to the step number in the parts column of the manual. I think I'm going to get my 2011 Avante kit out today... I purchased it back in 2011 with the titanium screw kit and planned to swap out all of the screws from the Ti set into the various screw bags (removing the corresponding steel screws at the same time) so that I could just build it as normal but with the Ti screws... well that plan went south when I put all the small bags in a big bag to keep everything together and half of them tipped out. Now I have one big bag with the mixed content of all the small bags plus all the Ti screws... 🙄 ******. Now I need to sort them individually before I can start the build. Doh. 😬

Very helpful @Gazebo, I appreciate that, I didn't know about the front springs. Unfortunately they have no rears in stock.

Except, as I posted earlier, at least some TRF kits are wrapped at the factory, they couldn't ship them otherwise.

Yes, and some things you just can "unsee". I was fearing the worst when I saw the box, fortunately it wasn't the worst but still annoying. I'd prefer to buy this stuff locally but I have a 0% chance of picking something like this up at any LHS.

New 934 body and body parts, along with corresponding paint for a Vaillant, I already have the decals. Coincidently they arrived within 30 mins of each other even though they were purchased on different days and one came from the UK and the other locally here in NZ. The box with the body from the UK was destroyed in transit and to be honest, the contents weren't protected very well, the body has a hard (indelible) crease as a result 😬😥, it's on the front bumper and I'm thinking it can be covered by the grill decal so possibly recoverable.

Yes, helpful thread, thank you. Can somebody explain to me why the big bore front springs are labelled as 2WD? Is the expectation that you run rear (longer) springs up front if you have a 4WD? That seems weird to me. Also, does anyone know where to buy either Tamiya big bore springs for something close to their retail cost <US$15 or what alternative brand springs are confirmed to work with the Tamiya shocks? Cheers.

That's real good looking actually, and a smart mod. Props. 👍

Hi @rwordenjr, where did you get the springs from? I can't find any for a reasonable price. Thank you.

*Radio Control.

In my experience Tamiya shrink-wraps at least some of their TRF boxes from the factory. All of my 501X's and 511's were either ex-Hong Kong or ex-Japan and they came shrink-wrapped. Probably because they have inserts (exserts?) that are not affixed to the outside of the boxes. Not a single one of my "normal" Tamiya kits that I've sourced from all over the place, probably excluding North America, have been shrink-wrapped.

^ seconded.