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Everything posted by djmcnz
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Now, that's just greedy @Zealot! 🤩
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#LockdownLife I sorted hundreds of small parts into zip-lock bags today, most of them were unused or replaced parts for historical builds, e.g. bushings that were replaced with bearings, stock screws that were replaced with stainless or titanium, unused sprues and plastic parts etc. To be honest I have so many spare and leftover parts that I doubt I'll ever finish but today I completed: TA02 parts (and found an unused tub) M01 screw bags and parts M03 screw bags and parts M05 screw bags and parts SRB (Sand Scorcher) screw bags and parts TRF501X/511 parts Also rediscovered a few stock 540's, a FHSS receiver, low profile metal gear servo, white Egress (used) rear wheels, 2/3 (missing an end plate 🙄) of an unpainted 'Racing Rear Wing Set A' (53055, not the new one), and a bunch of new off-brand body clips and blue aluminium cap screws. If anyone happens to think they could benefit from any of the above (except the TRF parts and electronics) feel free to PM me but keep in mind I can't do PayPal so we'd have to work around that if there were costs involved. And I received confirmation that my Fighting Buggy has shipped! 👍 New Zealand's snap lockdown had reminded me just how tough some countries are doing it so I hope you're all as safe and well as can be. 😷
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Hi there, just testing the waters, I don't even know if this is a reasonable proposition. I have a spare NIB 53122 Acto-Power 2WD Motor and I want a NIB 53153 Acto-Power Special Touring Motor, is that a swap-worthy deal? Would include box, insert, instructions and motor, all unused, high quality photos would of course be provided and I'd expect the same. My thinking was that they'd be of equivalent value (?) and we'd cover our own (good) packaging and postage costs, no funds would change hands. Would that interest anyone?
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You're unlikely to be able to get one of these but in my experience this is a best/worst vehicle, the TRF501X. Wonderful engineering but so fiddly to build and a nightmare to maintain, all fixed with the TRF511. The original titanium screw set used to bind into the chassis after a few hours use and had to be drilled out... drilling Ti is, understandably, quite the challenge (and very expensive, requiring diamond tipped bits). Not an experience I'd recommend.
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3x10mm tamiya self tap vs machined threads
djmcnz replied to nel33's topic in Build Tips and Techniques
Assuming the moulding isn't faulty (unlikely) the only things that can cause this are that your screws are too long, the head on the screws are the wrong profile, or you have plastic swarf in the holes from the tapping/screwing process (effectively making the hole shorter). Machine screws into plastic is suboptimal idea from the outset, I'd review my overall approach if I were you. -
Ugg, snap lockdown, whole country on stay at home orders. First cases in the community for 170 days and it's delta. Certainly the right thing to do, go hard, go fast, so no complaints here... but my Fighting Buggy hasn't arrived yet! Need to find another RC project to continue or complete whilst I wait.
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Egress incoming! Help with motor, etc please!
djmcnz replied to GeeWings's topic in General discussions
Look, just don't buy NiMH batteries these days, they silly old tech only relevant to those that already own a bunch. Get a proper charger and don't look back, any 'noise' about LiPo/NiMH is just that, noise, ignore it. LiPo's are far superior in every single important metric. I've had LiPo packs at full discharge, and others at full charge, for years on my shelf and they still charge and discharge like new. Brushed/brushless is more marginal (but still obvious IMHO). -
Egress incoming! Help with motor, etc please!
djmcnz replied to GeeWings's topic in General discussions
Dynatech 01R!! -
Just pulled the trigger on a Fighting Buggy... will be nice to add a SC chassis to the same shelf as my Sand Scorcher, yay! Also, first NIB purchase for 5 years! 😲 The temptation is strong.
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Thank you @Re-Bugged, @Jonathon Gillham, @GeeWings... you just cost me ~NZ$600! 😂
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Wow, thank you for pointing that out, wasn't aware of Hobby Co and they even ship to New Zealand for reasonable prices! But equally, d**m you! I had nearly finished convincing myself that I wasn't going to spend that money! Decisions, decisions! 😉😬
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Ouch, who sniped me?
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Ahh... my hopes have been dashed by RCJaz... in stock, reasonable price, ball diff also added to cart... And they want US$165 for shipping, how ridiculous, even in a C19 world that's just greedy, it is no reflection of the actual shipping cost by size and weight (US$55 EMS, US$63 DHL). So they're on my naughty list, along with RCMart at the moment who have stopped two of my recent orders after accepting payment and wanted to add US$19 to each for shipping... yet refuse to update their shipping calculator. Unhappy camper, both used to be honourable and reliable, not so much now it seems.
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Amazing that this thread has popped up, I started looking at a Fighting Buggy just yesterday and am inclined to pull the trigger. I have a re-re Scorcher SRB, I was thinking that a FB would be a nice Super Champ chassis to compliment that and then grab a Blockhead Wild One for a FAV chassis to complete the set... A few q's, this seems like a good thread for them... Does the Fighting Buggy come with bearings? What's the difference between 47304 and 84389 versions of the FB? Is rear diff (v2) the only other required Hop-Up for the FB? Anything else? Cheers!
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Other than my TRF511 (🥰) the TA02 is my favourite chassis of all time (and the DF01 variant because that's where I started). I have a Taisan Starcard shelfer with pretty much every period Hop-Up available that I'm in love with. I also have a 40th Anniversary that I'm really really tempted to build and will get a 45th as well. There's a TA02 project on my horizon but I'm not sure what it will be, I have a NIB Special Racing Chassis, NIB FRP Chassis Set, NIP Carbon Chassis Plates, NIP Pink Touring Car Dampers, all period. I realise that the value of these has been diluted since the re-re's but that's not too much of a concern, I'll get all of the enjoyment out of unpacking and building them... just need to decide exactly what I want to do.
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I don't think you need to worry about the grease at this stage, whilst not necessarily optimal, the Tamiya grease is fine to start with and it's unlikely that you've used too much (Tamiya don't actually supply enough to use too much). Most ball diffs will loosen during the first few runs, it's not unexpected to need to tighten them up and you should be able to do this whilst they're installed (removing the drive shafts of course). Set -> install -> run -> adjust -> profit. You eventually get the hang of how a correctly set ball diff will "feel" in the hands... you shouldn't be able to turn them by hand with the drive cups installed until you put something in the outdrive slots and then you should be able to turn by hand and feel the resistance.
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Lovin' your work Willy, this thread and elsewhere.
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lol @ me 😂🤣🤣🤣🙄
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🤨 do you have a picture of a body clip with threads, or have I misunderstood?
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Done: https://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1014117
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Is your username "Collin" over there? I could always post in the 'oOple Talk' sub-forum as ask for somebody to take a look... doesn't mean it will get any traction though.