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Everything posted by djmcnz
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Hi all, I'm looking for a vintage Tamiya TA02 photo/picture that Tamiya published in the mid-90's, I used to have a copy but I can't find it. It's quite iconic for the TA02 and I know of a few builds that were based on that exact picture, mine included. It was a chassis-only picture and looked like the chassis in the pic below, even the cable ties are faithfully positioned. It included the full range of (visible) period correct Hop-Ups including the OG CRP P-160F ESC. Carbon chassis plates and period Dyna-Run motor. I don't recall if it was a 'SW' or different version of the TA02 but it might have even been a Taisan with the silver 'boxes (can't recall). Any help much appreciated, my Google-fu has failed me.
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That my friend is amazing work, and thank you very much for taking the time to describe the vehicle in so much detail, I really appreciate that. I used to race these in the early to mid 90's and I can understand all of the changes you've made and all of the reasons you describe. It's quite the amazing feat that you've pulled it all together in such a beautiful fashion that still respects the legacy of the DF01 chassis. Well done. 💪
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Jeepers, there's a lot to unpack there. How about you describe it all, including the development process! I'm immediately interested in the the rear gearbox reinforcements and the rear chassis extension and matching arms, carbon steering looks nice too. But we actually want to hear about it all.
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RC gallery (absolutely No words-pics only)
djmcnz replied to Nicadraus's topic in General discussions
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I have somehow overlooked this buggy awesomeness so please forgive me, I'm about to start stalking your posts.
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Right, if I'd taken some time to look back in the thread I probably would have seen that. So, if you're forced into using straps, I'd recommend putting a piece of adhesive Velcro (loop side) on the battery and the corresponding (hook) side on the inside of the strap - at both ends, top and bottom. This way you're not primarily relying on the strap tension to keep the battery in place, rather the grip of the Velcro. If that makes no sense at all but you're still interested 😂 feel free to hit me up for more info.
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I remember back in the day (early 90's) that I busted a plastic clip in a car on car tangle and jury-rigged a replacement with some thin "coat hanger" wire for the finals. Worked okay. If you have the stock spars you should be able to use any TA02 ends, the strap method sucks with this chassis and rounded batteries.
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Arrowmax replacement tips (https://www.smalladdictionsrc.com/) might well fit. Also LRP replacement tips if you can find them, this is what I use and they're very good.
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Never apologise for too many RC pics.
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When I look at the prices of these 2013's NIB including shipping to NZ I think I'm just going to build one of my vintage ones.
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I just had a look at my TA02SW and there's no way the rear arms can give you a 3mm (let alone 6mm) reduction in wheelbase, the UJ's are already swept severely forward (to create the 'S'hort wheelbase). The fronts don't look like they can be moved rearward without having to reinvent the entire steering system. Unfortunately, I don't think different arms are viable. I wonder if trimming the wheel arches a little different and repositioning the body posts could reduce the 6mm difference to 'acceptable' (~3mm)? Edit: looks like I am mistaken, I just found this: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=129718&id=9813 Edit #2: It's been done... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4202335
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Yes, methylated spirits or isopropyl alcohol is enough.
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Acetone would also eat through CF and FRP laminate.
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I purchased a pack of Tamiya 50171 about a decade ago and still have most of it left. It's never failed me.
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Whilst the alternative chassis and shorter prop is a good solution it's relatively expensive. Modified arms would be a good alternative solution to have available.
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@Ferruz - seems to me that that's an indication you need a Frog...
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I found my grail Tamiya kit - How much would you pay?
djmcnz replied to JeffSpicoli's topic in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
My big ones... NIB Vintage Egress #1: EUR500 NIB Vintage Egress #2: EUR750 😧 NIB Vintage TFE: EUR450 💪 I have all of my 'holy grail' kits now (inc. original Super Astute NIB and Dyna Storm NIB). Although I am getting into my Porsche touring cars and that can will get expensive. I have the 30th and 40th NIB already, plus 3 x Starcards, one NIB and the other two built and professionally painted/decaled (seriously, who can decal a Starcard Porsche properly!?! 😲), one of which is fully Hopped Up with period correct Tamiya parts. -
Where do 50568 fit in does anybody know? I have them on my Monte Carlo M05 Pro. Edit: seems like they're low profile tyres, might throw up a few extra fitment/body options but what is their "hardness"?
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Of course you're right, my bad. They started with the original Avante (https://www.tamiyausa.com/trf-about/). I don't recall seeing any TRF branding in the late 80's or early 90's though, Avant, Egress and TFE were never called, referred to or branded as TRF vehicles, also no mention on boxes or instructions, you also couldn't buy "TRF" parts.
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Do tires last long if wrapped in plastic (or in a box)?
djmcnz replied to Juggular's topic in General discussions
I'd read this: https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/ozone-generators-are-sold-air-cleaners Then I'd throw away my ozone generator. Keep your tyres away from sunlight and in a zip-lock bag if you're particularly concerned, they'll be fine. Some of mine are over 30 years old and have had no special care. -
lol, that's awesome! Do you have any of the amazing RC Channel aluminium wheels? Apparently no longer available.
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looking for good soldering iron tool under $100
djmcnz replied to nel33's topic in All things electric...
I'd recommend a Weller, they reliable and forgiving at the same time, you can pick up a manual one for well(er) under CA$100. Although this digital one is on special for US$110: https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WE1010NA-Digital-Soldering-Station-dp-B077JDGY1J/dp/B077JDGY1J