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About Typhoon

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  1. It’s the pack size dimensions that are important regarding if it will fit, not the capacity. Typically higher capacity cells are physically larger. Different manufacturers have different size packs even if they are all the same capacity.
  2. Without the motor end in place you should be able to spin the spur gear with your finger and shift through all gears manually with the the shift rod. When you shift to low you may have to move the front wheel drive output a little so the 4WD ratio cogs line up. i found how you tighten the gear box cases together makes a big difference to how easy/smoothly you can shift with a finger. I tightened and sacked off screws till the shift was silky smooth.
  3. Building a Mountain Rider I picked up from there at the moment. Never build a NIB original Bruiser or Hilux and have striped and rebuilt them and the new kit does feel better quality in addition to the updates mentioned above.
  4. The one I have used successfully to strip a whole body is VMS Clean Slate. I use Carson Paint Killer for smaller areas when the paint is fresh, or for bleeding past the masking.
  5. Just to update what I ended up buying. Decided what I really wanted was something that handled different and not necessarily better, Also wanted to the get something from the era when I was first active in Tamiya RC So ended up getting the Bigwig. I remember it was the most expensive buggy at the time, even without the added expense of a new bigger battery and new charger that would charge 8.4v ( hence I ended up with my original Boomerang instead). Will fit it with 8.4v NIMH and Superstock BZ (which I guess is going to be close to the Technigold?). Added power and weight over the Boomerang should require a change in driving style. Just opened up the box and that Lexan body is by far the biggest 1/10 buggy body I have seen, should give it a bit of presence.
  6. My list from new kits Bt--50 1983 Frog 1985 Boomerang 1987 Blackfoot1987 ( built for someone else) Striker 1988 (built for someone else) Baja Champ 2002 TXT-1 2002 Frog 2005 Hotshot Rere 2020 Boomerang 2020 Frog Rere2020 Pajero Rally 2020 Boomerang ReRe 2020 Porsche 956 RM05 2020 Tornado RM05 2020 BT-50 2020 2020 Mountain Rider 2020 (currently building)
  7. Thanks guys. Just been catching up on the recommendations here. The CAT looks amazing. Would love putting that together, but not sure I would time to invest with maintenance/ fine tuning. Optima/ Javelin would have been perfect but are a bit more than I want to spend. Top Force looks like a good shout, FRP Chassis will be different for around the same price as a Tera Scorcher. I know these came out some years after the Optima, so would the Top Force offer Optima performance and handling. Would the Hicap dampers help in a noticeable way? Reading up on the Top Force they seem good for smoother surfaces but I guess they will also handle a grass track. Looks like you can change the ride height easily with the different damper mounting locations.
  8. I wonder which 4WD re re/vintage buggy is better around a back garden grass track than a Boomerang. I have been running a standard Boomerang in the garden. I am looking to build another runner but want something that's drives different. I already have a 2WD buggy and I love changing between the two and appreciating the differences in handling and having to change the driving style to get around quickly/ without flipping over/ going off track. As I am mainly interested in the first 150 or so Tamiya models (as this what I remember mainly when growing up) are there any buggies that will handle noticeably better on grass than the Boomerang. Not concerned about straight line speed, but something that can take corners faster and give noticeably different feel than driving the Boomerang ( I am no pro driver, so probably wont notice small differences) I imagine on a wide dirt track differences would be more apparent, but would I notice anything on grass? I have about a 60x 25 foot area to play with. If not, I am happy to consider a newer buggy. Thanks
  9. Its been 15 years since I last built a Tamiya kit or ran a RC car (restored Blue Hilux in my showroom, sold it not long after). Last bough a kit 12 years ago. My last post here was 7 years ago. Dropped out of the hobby for the second time to pursue other interests and more recently not really had the time for hobbies in general. Sold some of my kits in my showroom, kept only those that were most sentimental (kits from the 1980s) and had only 1 built up car - The green re re Frog in my showroom (built dry for display, never run but worse for wear from storage). My NIBs were all stored in the loft, out of view and largely forgotten. Anyways, with time on my hands with the lockdown, I have dusted down my kits, and got my son to build his first kit that I purchased some years ago just for this purpose. Even managed to put together a track in the garden. Put up some storage in the study to display boxes and built models. Going to build most of my stored NIBs I have left for display. In the last 2 weeks I have bought a bunch of re re kits for my son and me to build as runners. And a Neo Fighter (but that's Frog flavoured anyway) First ones done - the Hotshot, going on display Next up a re re Frog for Display and then rebuild the green Frog into a runner. Plan is to keep the 3 kits I built as a kid NIB (I have doubles) and build the rest for display. While I still have the time.
  10. SOLD I seemed to have let my membership lapse so cant post in the main section. Anyway its time to let my Hilux go. This one started out NIB and was built without grease or threadlock and then dissembled and parts put away in their original bags with labels and restapled. The body was never built and the stickers are untouched. This is the way I bought it and I have been through everything with a fine tooth comb and it's all there. So if you ever dreamt of building a Hilux from new but can't bring yourself to rip open a priceless NIB, or just fancy one that will pass for NIB, this is for you. Pics in my showroom http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=38902&sid=605 Asking £1250.00 can be collected in London E16 or posted at cost. Cheers
  11. I have to agree with the majority sentiment, This is a going to be superb offering from Tamiya. Obviously it is going to appeal to those who remember the original and want scale appearance, metal frame and the 3 speed gear box. The high price and the need for a 4 Ch radio means this truck has no competitors price or specification wise and is in a class all of its own, just above the High Lift class. I am glad I held off getting a High Lift Hilux, Will definately be getting one of these to build and run, and may be another to keep new if it looks like production is going to come to an end.
  12. The BT-50 was my first Tamiya RC and hence my favourite model. I have 2 NIB's, a shelf queen and a rerelease body set on on a F-103 as a runner The Lexan body set is designed to fit over the ABS body and is of little use on its own. Unless your buying a complete mode the hard bits to find are the White servo saver, the metal steering tie rods (not the same as the Supechamp), and the white bumper real wheel gaurds. The little metal piece that connects the wing to the body ofen goes missing.
  13. I have a soft spot for the BMW E30 M3 so plan on getting a couple of kits. http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=58451 I intend to keep standard drift spec TT01-D chassis and the other I would like to fit out with a hopped up more advanced chassis than the TT01 (to look good on the shelf and drive, but not race). Only run buggies and pan cars till now, so I not up to speed on which bodies go with which chassis's. So what other Tamiya Chassis whould this body fit? Something belt driven line TA05-R or Ver2? Cheers
  14. Plenty of suppliers on ebay uk. Search for Acrylic sheet if you want 'Plexiglass' or Polycarbonate sheet if you want 'Lexan'.
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