simensays

Out of necessity I've designed some reproductions of various parts for another project. Got some parts delivered today, some are new, some are parts I've simply updated somewhat... One updated part, the V2 Jerry Can insert - same concept, just some minor added details (indented crossed section)... Same fit, but cheaper, more detailed, so overall better - and will replace the old version I designed years ago. (Please note, the insert pictured is the prototype print with the cheapest material > natural versatile plastic, which has a rough surface, other materials are available for a smoother finish) The mechanism box cover arrived also - fits perfectly, but the the Natural Versatile Plastic material do need some sanding. I'll just leave it as is, since I do not mind the matt surface for the project in question. I also made a set of servo saver parts I needed, And made an assembly of them as these small parts can be somewhat hard to find at times. In my venture to convert both my WW2 (WR-02) and GF-01 into a vintage WW look-a-like, I've also designed a vintage style bumper for them. I'll update with better pics as my builds progress...

As I'm a real slow mover on my multiple projects - many of them spread over years - I sometimes have the time to change the direction or theme for the respective project. For some reason I like vintage 4x4 cars in baby blue, and I love surfing - so why not make a WW based on this, rather than a obscure navy WW.

Sorry to see that the area is hit by floods like that! The board is sized at approx 155x30x8 cm, and weighs in at <3,5kg. As there are no bindings, just the flat board, it can be sandwiched between two cardboard sheets (tyoe IKEA leftovers) and taped up well. The total weight should be less than 5kg and size a tad bit more than the board itself.

Well, no mods to my deisgn is needed for that anyhow, as the battery is obviously outside of the mechanism box Good to hear you've found a source for a hump back battery for your new old Wild Willy project! (No need to re-quote every post, Joe - all the duplicate images makes a mess )

Thanks for offering, Yogi-Bear, I appreciate it. Yup, the covid situation does not make anything easier. I've been in contact with a different seller in Australia who gave me a shipping quote for a similar snowboard - and yes, it is expensive. Still the board is really cheap, so that makes up for a total cost I can accept. It is just the snowboard, no bindings, so packing it is very easy (which I can explain if this comes to fruition). Naturally I do not want to risk it getting lost in transit, so if that is a valid chance for that happening due to the current situation, I will not waste anybody's time. Hmm... The board is located in: Bowen Mountain NSW 2753, Australia.

Along with vintage Tamiyas I never got as a kid, I collect old snowboards that I rode back in the days. So, for once I'm going off topic, and need some help from a friendly member down under. I'm out to buy an old snowboard listed cheap on eBay in Australia, and the seller was initially willing to ship the board to me across the globe to Norway, although shipping is listed within Australia only.. After several emails, it's now radio silence and he will not get back to me for some reason or another. The board is still available, now at a reduced price. What I would need, is for somebody in Australia to buy the board and forward it to me - naturally on my expense. If anybody is willing, let me know and we can figure out the details - I'm a 20 year member here on TC, so not a troll. Simen

Ah, the problems of yesteryear 3D printing these small, hard to find parts has def made things easier - no fiberglass needed!

I've run out of spare mechanism covers also, so I designed both the SWB and LWB version.

Joe, check out this thread for more info:

Don, it's been about 17 years, and I'm still blown away how perfectly you made the parts from my oh-so-crappy reference I still have the great driveshafts you made, and just now got the "et al." reference...

Since you ask in the OG post, what does cutting body panels entail? Are you planning on doing secrions/panels to replace broken parts of the WW body? There are really no parts of the actual body that breaks from what i've experienced, so see no demand for that? Pretty much every single part of the original WW is available as a reproduction these days, most are 3D printed, but I'd love to see a metal body or more metal parts for sure!

My supply of wheel inserts for the original Wild Willy wheels has run out, and with the high prices for these insert on eBay - I designed my own. I haven't printed them yet (so not made available for others yet), but it can't get more basic than this...

It's great to see other Wild Willy enthusiasts indeed! Did you go forward with the parts making? It would be amazing to see a Full Metal Wild Willy! I've been designing parts for my many Wild Willys for years now, but would love to see what you are describing. I've designed the Wild Willy body as per the original, with all the parts separate that makes up the kit. I've been 3D printing the parts i need, but would love to get a CNC machine to make custom parts.

I use Tamiya Olive Drab TS5 or Tamiya Olive Drab 2 TS28 for my box art WWs. The TS28 is a little darker in color, which i like personally, but I'd say the TS5 is the closest to the box art color. TS5 TS28 The lighting in the two photos are different, so hard to detect the different - which is subtle anyways. Here is a TS paint chart by Tamiya: