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About simensays

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  • Birthday 11/02/1973

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    Oslo, Norway

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  1. So I did not come across his until now - still a few years after I made mine, but it looks really nice and scale. Too bad it's a static model https://www.acmediecast.com/products/details.cfm?ProductNumber=RAR18001&category=RAR - 1% [/img]
  2. some renders that show the rims a bit more in detail...
  3. I love the old style Wild Willy tires, and wanted to use them on the WW2 and the GF01. So I had to design some... The tires are reissues, which are very good, and have been covered in other threads here on TC.The rims are split rims, and uses the same hardware and works as the vintage stock wheels - only with modern hex pattern and off-set to fit the WW2 and GF01 (and models with the same off-set wheels). This is my GF01 Wild Willy conversion I started a long time ago, with the new rims and tires mounted.
  4. I designed the SUPER-X decals a few years back for some of my WW projects, and had them printed at ScreenPrintDigital.com...
  5. For me it's a question of aesthetics. As a designer, it just looks way better - the SWB that is. The rear axle on the LWB is obviously too far back - a poorly masked, cheap option design and engineering wise, rather than redesigning and shifting weight forward in the chassis, to avoid it flippin' too easily. As for selling/buying, it is fairly easy to identify a genuine SWB - as with all things - when you know what to look for.
  6. Oh, I'm still here.. You document that Tamiya used both old and new parts in some of their kits, that coincides with the time the model was revised, as with your Sand Scorcher. What makes it less likely that they did this with other kits, like the 58035 also? I have a NIB Sand Scorcher myself that has both mk1 and mk2 parts, so I can confirm that Tamiya did this. The WW that I mentioned several years back, that had parts from both a SWB and a LWB was not originally built by me. However, I did make detailed inquieries with the guy I bought it from, he was not a collector, did not ask much for it, and had nothing to gain by lying about the mixed parts - and he insisted he built it out of the box himself. I still own that car.
  7. The answer is yes. Converting a LWB Wild Willy to look like a SWB is very easy - and the only thing needed is the short arms stays. Simply by swapping out these two parts, the overall stance of the WW will recemble the original version. I have done this on my WW runner (and other projects), which is built from various left over parts, custom made parts and so on. If the goal is to build a true SWB, as it was released originally, this is also possible, but the parts list is quite a bit longer, and way more of a challenge to find. Most parts are identical, but there are some crusial parts that differ the two - see the leaflet at the end of this post for a list of the parts. Personally I like the overall proportions of the first version, and see little or no point in arguing for the fact that the LWB version handles better - both versions handle like crap - or like a childhood dream, depending on how one views it. I love the handling, not because it is great, but because it is excatly how it was when I was a kid. I've even designed my own arms stays (SWB specs) for one of my WWs Naturally I have built both versions... My runner is not a true SWB... I made this some time ago, from the scans available (under vintage media) here on TC, showing the various parts that differ on the two Wild Willy versions:
  8. 1589143741_SimonsWW.jpg.c50b7bca5d43d88b0fdde0c42719749c.jpg 

    Hi SImon, I love your resto's they look really great!!! Got a couple of questions If I may ask? the first is what is the colour code on this green WW? I'm assuming its not Olive Drab 2? The WW in my old catalogue is this sort of colour and I'm desperate to find out what it is!!!  Secondly do you spray the plastic Chassis members, suspension arms etc? if so do you just use ordinary matt black/ acrylic type aerosol.  I tried it on an old F2 type chassis and it came up really well but was a bit worried if the paint would attack the plastic at all??!! Just wondered if you had any issues with this? many thanks and best wishes Barry

    1. simensays


      Hi Barry - I usually make a detailed description of the model in my showroom, including color used etc. The WW in the picture was prayed with TS5 Olive Drab. The TS28 Olive Drab 2 is a bit darker, and I have used it for several WW builds also, check out my showroom.
      Regarding spraying the chassis parts, I do not do that for the WWs, but I have done this for various other models, like Sand Scorcjer, Sand Sover etc... The WW chassis parts are all cast in black, so not really needed if you ask me, but I do spray the roll bar in matt black, also I spray the underside of bodies matt black.

      I use Tamiya spray for pretty much all my models. 


    2. bjmulford


      Hi Simon, that's great, thank you so much for taking the time to reply, much appreciated! I'm afraid I'm no good with navigating this website, I just find it really confusing and can never seem to get where I want to be on it unless I do a google search first!!! Cheers very much and keep up the resto's!, B

    3. simensays


      Yeah, it has gotten less intuitive to navigate lately, so I understand where you're coming from. I spend less time here lately, but drop by from time to time. It's always great to exchange info with other enthusiasts, so only happy to share. Here is a link to my showroom with some of my models with more detailed info as mentioned earlier. 




  9. If this is a flat chassis plate, you'd be better off having it CNC'ed in aluminium or carbon fibre. This will be more suitable for such a part, stronger and cheaper, than 3D printing it. You also don't need 3D skills, simply draw it in a program like Adobe illustrator, and you'll probably find several CNC services in your area.
  10. I have encountered, and own, Wild Willys that came with a mix of parts from the SWB and the LWB version . which have a logical, possible cause of Tamiya utilising some of the existing parts from the SWB when transitioning over to the LWB version. The battery connector came loose with the kits, as it is routed through the chassis lid. I believe the bag containing the battery connector, on the early models, , have both the 7.2V connector AND a 6V connector - I might be remembering incorrect though, but I bought several of these bags about 10 years ago for my numerous WW resto projects, and all that I have left is a bunch of 6V connectors that I never used or needed. The antenna is probably simply a McGyver fix, done by a young kid loosing the original antenna tube... There is no design feature on the original chassis that can accommodate a SRB antenna. Just my 2 cents.
  11. Just start building, play around with different materials, don't rush, and have fun! In a couple of decades you might be able to do something like this:
  12. I have been printing my designs on Shapeways for about 5 years, and have printed some parts in the Premium Black lately, and can confirm it works well. It is very pricey though, almost double of what the White Strong Flexible Polished is. The finish is a little bit smoother on tha Premium. BTW, all the colored sintered nylon (like the Strong Flexible material line consists of) are dyed after printied and polish (tumbled with ceramic pellets).
  13. I totally agree about the pricing. I have to pay that myself, and don't make any money off of it - I designed it, as it represented a way better method of production over scratch building it. Also, in relation to the thousands of bucks spent on my collection of the last 15 years, I don't mind the few bucks for my own custom parts. I design these parts for my own sake, not as a business idea. I do have a spare hardtop though, so PM if interested - won't cost you much I did the WW2 windshield frame in 5 min after reading your post, a very simple conversion as I have already made an exact 3D replica of the full WW body kit, as seen in the pics in previous posts. The canvas flap, was a fun little detail to make. It's double, inverted canvas, with a foam core, to give it some bulk and scale appearance. A good excuse to drag out the Husquarna sewing machine Also worth mentioning that the hardtop is not screwed together in the pics, so that's why it looks a bit loose and ill-fitting to the body.
  14. And that makes is a poor idea, or a non viable part to design, or print IMO... Why spend time trying to reproduce something that is better in it's original form and availability - rather than making new, improved custom parts? If it's about the challenge, and paying more for something, well...
  15. Actually, the split windscreen is not correct for the Willys M38 - it was used on the earlier Willys Jeeps. Sure, it would be a small job making a version to sfit the WW2 mounting - I can do that if you'd like. For this hardtop I sewed a canvas rear flap, instead of the rear door, just to mix it up, Since the hard top is such a big part, the price is a bit high when printing it on Shapeways. By leaving out that part, it helps a little, and IMO it makes for a cool realistic look, or at least an interesting variation. It all looks kinda bland as it is all just in primer, planning on weathering this after paint, since the navy grey will look similar to the primer... [
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