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simensays

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Posts posted by simensays


  1. On 3/19/2024 at 9:05 PM, stulec52 said:

    Thanks everyone.  
     I did message the guy, eBay has this thing where they don’t let you send any contact info to get in touch directly, so I’ll wait and see if he replies.  
      Failing that I’ll keep looking for folks selling them. 

    RA1028 makes them, and he is a long-time member here on TC, so you could try contacting him here:
    https://www.tamiyaclub.com/member.asp?id=1675

    I have purchased several sets of the WW/BB tires and can confirm they are excellent.


  2. I have some info collected over the years that might help out:

    Exploded view of the tranny:
    http://www.simensays.com/tamiya/3spd_Exploded.pdf

    Full service manual:
    http://www.simensays.com/tamiya/TrannySvcManual.pdf

    A full rebuild (disassembly/assembly) of a Hilux/Blazing Blazer tranny. Note, this is not my work, but a great detailed ball-race rebuild made by Lees (?) - the owner/OP contact info is listed in the bottom of the PDFs - years back that I saved and turned into PDFs when I did a similiar rebuild on one of my Hilux/BB transmissions many moons ago:
    http://www.simensays.com/tamiya/tamiya_3spd_dissasembly.pdf
    http://www.simensays.com/tamiya/tamiya_3spd_assembly.pdf

     

     


  3. We could naturally reopen this topic, but at little interest to others. I've deleted some posts directed at you left in frustration to keep others out of it (as post can't be deleted). I do not have the time at the moment, but you have copied much more than the double colons (you introduced yourself by copy pasting my title, some of my concepts etc, I know it might seem a trivial detail, but so why do it?), and the fact that half of your initial "ideas" had been listed in my thread for years you play this down is what has rubbed me the wrong way since your first post on here - just like we have talked about in our PMs. Much of your work is not original - which is the root to the way I perceive your wordy origins stories. I am happy too see that you've now taken the steps to do some changes, and I look forward to seeing your new and original designs - which in fairness you have showcased examples of.


  4. On 2/11/2015 at 9:51 PM, mongoose1983 said:

    Well, I think we'll have to wait for prices to come down to make them available at more reasonable costs. By now I believe there's guys here making truly amazing custom parts (and very resistant from what I've heard) but the finish requires a lot of work done to them. I'm sure in the not so distant future the 3D printers will deliver a smoother finish. In the meantime, with such prices I know such fantastic parts are not in my list :(

    Many years later, and the prices have only gone up :( Now we do have more options and smoother finishes, but unfortunately not really for durable materials...


  5. On 4/8/2023 at 1:23 AM, Willy iine said:

    As a passionate RC enthusiast, my wish would be for you to co-exist with no tension...  

    Wise words, and of course you are correct. I've altered the title/tags and deleted any mentions. Guess I get a bit frustrated (childish) when I observe others copying some of my original ideas (and thread titles).

     

    copycat.jpg

    • Like 3

  6. Looks fantastic!

    I never bothered with these beauties, in fact I turned down buying a dozen of them for about $50 a pop when I first started hunting down vintage Tamiyas locally about 20 years ago - they were simply too new for me... I got a NOS Celica body, rims and tyres in a trade - I gave them away to a friend.

    Now, I regret it all, I want both the Porsche and Toyota, but realise I probably won't have either one any time soon... I know the Celica body I gave away still is in new, unpainted condition - but out of my reach at this point. I hope you find the parts you are missing to complete these awesome restorations.

    • Sad 1

  7. After 20 years on TC I now mostly quietly observe, which I think goes for several of the members that have been on here for a while. I still work on my long list of vintage projects when time allows, competing with other hobbies and interests. The need for info is less, and thrill of the hunt for old "barn finds" was lost (for me) with the re-releases and modern day eBay - and possibly the fact that I obtained my "critical mass" of cars before this point - resulting in a less active profile in the forums.

     

    As with all generational waves of nostalgic interests, naturally there will come a time when vintage Tamiya RC cars also will age out - however, for many of the other reasons mentioned above I don't believe that time is now. 

     

    • Like 3
    • Sad 1

  8. On 8/8/2022 at 3:41 PM, Gebbly said:

    Has anyone made a successful modification such that their GF-01 will fit both the Land Cruiser and Wild Willy 2 bodies?

    Yup, no need to get two kits. You can find some info in this thread and if you do a forum search, I started a dedicated thread a few years back.

     

     

    • Like 1

  9. Yup, the WW motor has a pressed on pinion different from most other models. Plenty of questions touching on this in these forums, but not really any good solutions or answers, and probably why WW motors sell for big bucks. It is hard to tell why this has happened to your WW, as this is not really a common problem. Accurate assembly and good gear mesh is key to prevent this.

    • Like 1

  10. 11 hours ago, Exit13 said:

    I’ll be there. How do you attach to tailgate and side rails?

    What are the side rails you mention? If this is the rear frame/loop, see the illustration - it is attached under the rear roll bar loop.
    Pull the rear flap of the soft top down and sandwich it between the body and tailgate. Attach the tailgate as you would without the soft top. You will need to punch a small hole in the fabric where the mounting screw for the tailgate and the spare goes, but do this after things are placed (use an awl or similar).


  11. On 4/6/2022 at 12:23 AM, Exit13 said:

    I was told this is a do it yourself mod. 
    [...]
    as you can see in this advertisement they give you the measurements  Has anyone done this and if so what are you using for fabric and what’s doing for attaching the fabric to the windshield frame / side rails and tailgate ?  I’m going to give us a shot  

    One of the first and coolest Wild Willys I saw more than 20 years ago here on Tamiyaclub was by fellow member Kaindi - and it had a soft top. That inspired me to make mine back in 2004.

    Kaindis soft top Wild Willy

    simensays_kaindi_ww.jpg

    I used the template pictured in the first post, but redrew everything in Illustrator and removed the extra material pictured between the roof panel and the rear wall panel (this part is suppose to wrap around and be sown in around the soft top frame (?) as per the illustration). I bought some thin canvas, as thicker materials will not looks scale. I used some thick clear plastic bag for the rear window, and sewed everything up. Materials (fabric and window) can be found around the house (an old shirt and plastic bag etc), and the actual soft top is very easy to make. I used some heavy duty steel thread to make the rear frame loop. The challenge was fasteing the front of the soft top to the rollbar. I drilled and screwd in some shortened screws into the front roll bar - this was the most complacated job. Attaching the soft top in the rear is pretty straight forward, as it simply slips down between the body and the rear tailgate and secured when the tailgate/spare wheel cover is screwed in. 

    I worked everything out from the pictures, and improvised whenever I needed. I have played around with designing a front mount for attaching the soft top and 3D printing it, but have not completed the job as I've not planned on making another soft top WW, and the first one holds up perfectly.

    simensays_wild_willy_hoody_1.jpg
    simensays_wild_willy_hoody_2.jpg
    simensays_wild_willy_hoody_3.jpg
    simensays_wild_willy_hoody_4.jpg

    • Like 10

  12. Aaah, tearing down an old car and cleaning all and every part is so satisfying.

    WD40 will make it all very easy, and is for sure my weapon of choice for cleaning, but not for lubrication. It will dissolve rust, old servo tape, grease and dirt, and I use it heavily on any old model. It will not harm paint or plastics, and it will not ruin your electronics. I wipe it off with some paper towels, then I'll use mild soapy  water to remove the WD40. I also use break cleaner for a lot of general stuff, which will remove any greasy or oily remains.

    For metal parts I swear to steel wool. Any grade works, yes there are different grades available, but you can't go wrong with metal parts. It will give a clean brushed finish, which can be polished for a chrome look later if needed/wanted. I even use it on some plastics, but depending on the type of plastic and the part it self, this is just to remove grime and dirt.

    As mentioned above, I'll work ny way up from 240 or higher depending on the scratch/surface and work my way up to 3000 grid sand paper (dry and wet)  - bur as this is not a question of finishing work, rather cleaning and prepping I will not go into detail.

    For rubber I use baby oil. It contains glycerine which is good for old drying rubber. I use it as a more concentrated form of glycerine is not readily available where I live. It helps, but is not a permanent fix.

    Screws are available on eBay if you don't want to clean, brush and re-plate them. I just made a list of all the screws for one of my vintage models, and searched and ordered every single one of them (100 of each) on eBay for next to nothing. The screw sets available for vintage Tamiya cars by aftermarket sellers will do the job, but are usually hex heads and not identical (for early Tamiya models with phillip heads in the mix) - yet again, not related to your question, but something to consider before spending hours cleaning single vintage screws.

    I've never used my dishwasher, as that's where I put stuff I eat from, although it's probably not really an issue I see no reason for it (and I think it is disgusting, but that's just me :D). Some water, liquid soap, scotch-brite sponge (or similar), steel wool, lots of towels/paper and WD40 and you're all set for prepping and cleaning an old car.

    Take your time, and enjoy the cleaning process - I love this part of any restoration, and it for sure gives you a great opportunity to get to know the model and an idea of what you need to replace. Never rush to paint or finishing, you'll just look back at the process and regret not taking your time - believe me, I've restored a few of my restorations :D 

    • Like 2

  13. On 1/29/2022 at 6:03 PM, Willy iine said:

    @simensays Nice.  Would this mount still use the factory spring?

    Yes, that is the plan. I could simply make a complete front body mount, without the spring, but I have plenty of springs, and wanted to test how printing the bolt thread works (since it is a M10 thread I think it should be ok). As this is made as a plastic part, I've beefed it up somewhat, and included space for a lock nut.

    • Like 1
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