guggles

Hello my fellow TC enthusiasts! I am unable to properly identify the name of this chassis that I recently acquired. It seems like somebody in the community with their vast knowledge of vintage RC's may be able to help me. Here it is! It seems like a cross between the Kyosho GP Outlaw Rampage Pro (the old one not the recent model) and a Kyosho Sandmaster. It has the Pro suspension and an aluminum chassis but has a Sandmaster style transmission with a slipper. What do you guys think this is? Is is a Sandmaster with upgraded suspension and chassis or a Pro with a lower level transmission? Or is it a completely different model? Mystery Solved, A member on RC10Talk properly identified it as a Kyosho Nitro Pro ST (1996). Thanks in advance! Also the rear wheel axles use a tapered fit with the metal hexes and there is no pin!

Very good work, those tail lights look just like the full scale lights!

There is a reason why since the inception of bearings in wheels on a spindle, there are two bearings used. No matter if it is a roller bearing, tapered roller bearing or a ball bearing. I cant really explain why its needed in super technical terms, but it is all about the force that the bearing can take. It can take straight down force very well, but when the bearing is loaded and a force trys to tilt the bearing on itself its bad, very bad. Its why bearings are susceptible to damage with installation. Force on inner race pushing side to side.

The problem for me with 3d printers is that I have already waited long enough through the adoption curve, That I might as well be a late stage adopter. When they finally make a consumer level 3d printer that can print with fine surface finish and details, but also strength too. The 3d printers now are very good, but the parts still are not durable enough for many of the uses I want. The resin printers are even more amazing at printing very small details, but the material can not take much heat, and the parts are weaker than 3d printed plastic.

May I suggest building a dividing wall on the gap in the front of the chassis and filling the empty space with epoxy? Seems like a much easier and durable way to fill in the space. What a nice jeep you have, I am sure you will be able to repair the body!

Do you have any experience in nitro? Do you know anyone with lot of experience in nitro? I would say the most important part of getting started in nitro is having someone with experience to teach you. All the other stuff doesnt really matter if you cant get the car running well and dont have fun with it! The big detriment to nitro is you really need first hand experience to understand it. What usually happens is people get them, cant get them running right and get discouraged and move on. Its really sad because its such a rewarding and enjoyable experience in the RC hobby. (if you know what you are doing). I would research alot, and prepare to get really frustrated and not have the car run well or at all until you get more practice. If you are willing to invest this time and energy into learning about it then go for it! Some tips I think will help: It doesnt matter what method you break the engine in, any method will work. The claims of engine lifespan and performance are purely anecdotal from different break in methods. I would do the method of running the engine at temperature for a few tanks idling and start driving the car around gently for a few more tanks and then start tuning the top so it is still a little rich but runs well. Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the engine up to around 200* F and do this for the first half dozen times you go and run the engine. Will make the piston not get stuck and make starting easier. When starting the engine use throttle trim or your finger on the gas and give it just a little throttle until it starts easily and keeps running. Keep the engine at a high idle (not more than 1/4 throttle though) for about 5 minutes to heat it up. then go and run the car at factory settings or your last tune if the weather is similar for about half a tank and observe the performance. it should be a little slow and sluggish at first but after about a half a tank or so it should start to run right. The biggest trap to get stuck in is tuning too much and too quickly. If the engine has a super high pitched and dry sounding noise at the top end with no smoke (lean), richen 2 hours on HSN and see the change. A new engine will be harder to keep a really consistent and pefect tune on the low end. This is because of the internal engine friction and pinch. Dont focus to much on having the engine start perfect everytime or run at a perfect low idle all the time, just try and keep it running and make sure the top has good fuel. If it dies oh well start it up again and fiddle around with it a bit. Remember make small changes and be patient, and also have fun!

Not very versed on the TNX platform so cant say if the R came with a clear body set. Knowing Tamiya they should offer an unpainted shell. Is it a different body from the regular TNX shell? Also thanks for sharing, I hope to see your results!

I got the fortress 2gallon from harbor freight. I really like it! Might be a little bit more noisy than a small airbrush compressor but it really is very quiet compared to a large compressor. I like the larger tank size. It also can be used for lots of other small projects too. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-gallon-135-psi-ultra-quiet-oil-free-hand-carry-jobsite-air-compressor-64596.html

Does it have to be Tamiya Because if not: Nitro Rustler/Sport. Fun, Cheap as chips, cheerful, can beat them up without feeling guilty. Also can drive on dirt, pavement and short grass. I mean come on whats not to love about this?: https://a.l3n.co/i/Sf9iCo.mp4?open=true If it has to be a Tamiya then likely a BBX,TNX, Lunchie or a Top Force

+1 Kimbrough 124 or maybe the lunchie needs the smaller version? Not sure maybe other Tamiya heads can chirp in. You can always get the large servo saver and trim it down to fit. Also assuming you are using a metal gear servo, because the heavy duty servo saver will strip plastic servo gears.

my recommendation for a lubricant: https://www.whitelightningco.com/products/lubricants/clean-ride Goes on wet and drys to a wax film that does not attract dirt and can definitely help smooth out driveshafts, ball cups and other joints.

One thing to keep in mind too is thread lock will attach many of the older plastics, so best to be carful when working one some rare or vintage kit. I had part of my vintage wild one chassis crumble in my hands because I used some thread lock on a machine nut next to the plastic

If your anywhere near as clumsy as me, you let go of the link and have an unbalance single blade helicopter of death in your hand! Best be careful!

Blue- if it still comes out add a little more goo. Green- its a little more mean and might put up a fight if you know what I mean. Red- its never going to be undone again. Nyloc hardware.

Simply stunning! But you forgot the cable ties for the exhaust coupler