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guggles

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About guggles

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  • Birthday January 30

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  1. neat and proper. You ought to just build another and keep this just for display
  2. Watching various restoration videos on the youtube I have picked up that evapo-rust is a great product to use in converting rust also. Sometimes It takes a while but results look quite nice. I will try and remember the tip on the gun blue coat if I ever need it. Its always a treat to stop by and get schooled on these vintage nitro buggys.
  3. Looks great! Do you run any of your restorations or are they for display?
  4. beautiful project I love seeing the steps taken to clean and tidy a car up... The parts you have made look quite nice. good work!
  5. update: Team Associated T4 has sold, everything else in this thread is still forsale folks. The HPI e10 is on ebay right now and has a few days left before it will sell: https://www.ebay.com/itm/153780831833 Im going to start shifting more to my ebay account, so its going to be the last chance to try and strike up a deal with me. Thanks.
  6. its a toss up between traxxas and tamiya IMO. A entry level kit from either company will suit you well. If you want to build a car from a kit, then tamiya is the obvious choice. Tamiya spares should be easy enough to comeby online. Going the traxxas route makes sense if you just want to get out there and start playing with a prebuilt car out of the box. Traxxas spares might be available locally (not sure what part of the world you live in) or can buy online. Traxxas electric 4tec is where I would start, dont get a ralley or any of their 1/16th versions, for road racing and drifting the 4tec is better. Get some drift tires and start playing around with driving and simple setups. Basically, get a tt02 if you want to build it, but dont mind waiting for spares or, if you have a LHS that stocks traxxas parts get a 4tec My humble opinion is get a friend who wants a car too, because onroad cars are kind of tame when your used to bashing and its just you going about. A 3s motor in a 1/10 touring car sounds fun, but that much power will break things alot easier.
  7. The dangers with cell style batterys are mainly shrapnel if they do go pop. A battery with a defective venting assembly at the top can build up pressure and explode. Lipos dont have this problem, they can explode but the soft casing cant do much damage. The main dangers from Lipos are the flames that shoot out and immense heat which can set other nearby objects on fire.
  8. always used deans until bullet connectors came into play for batterys. Now Im looking at the XT60's more and more as they seem like a great option instead of deans, with the plus of making a good connection and being easy to wire up. With deans they will only become hard to pull apart when the plastic was melted during soldering. If the flat plates on deans get out of alignment then its hard to plug in or unplug them. You can only put a iron on the deans plugs for a couple seconds to not melt them. I use a set of hemistats on the other side of the plug to help pull out the heat while soldering. Chinese knockoff deans also work well but they wear out much faster than genuine deans.
  9. Put my HPI E10 on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Racing-E10-Drift-RTR/153780831833
  10. Got some more stuff to put up on here for sale: 2 Sets of 4wd buggy front tires $20 4 Pairs of PL suburbs MC compound tires for short course trucks $20 for two pairs (4 tires) NIP A Pair of PL caliber M2 short course tires $10 Futaba magnum junior radio, untested, some corrosion on the battery plates, no battery holder $15 Futaba Magnum sport radio, was working last time I used it, no battery holder, $15 BFE body set, decent condition, missing front bumper, lights and one of the back bumper mounts is cracked. $15 Set of TLT1 axles $50 Chrome TLT1 axles with 2.2 Proline masher tires and stampede wheels $60 TLT1 Body and wheels $15 Box of tires $20 for a set of 4 or $60 for all of them: Set of 1.9 rc4wd super swampers mounted on HPI stock car wheels 6 2.2 HPI geolanders mounted on stampede wheels 4 2.2 axial tires unmounted (no wheels) 4 2.2 PL moabs mounted on twin det. wheels TLT1 Bumpers and servo mounts/linkages and parts $10 Tamiya F350 highlift electronics tray and battery holder $10 Some touring car wheels $10 for 4 or $20 for the lot AE t4 with tekin brushless motor, hitec servo and spectrum reciver $60 comes with two bodies. Make an offer if you want the roller without electronics Ford bronco and Jeep body $20 each Silverado $20, FJ40 with the roof cut off $15, International scout $20
  11. aluminum screws are lighter but much weaker than steel. Something to consider when using, structural fasteners might require the use of steel screws. Now you guys got me wanting to but a bunch of pretty blue hex screws for future builds haha.
  12. seen it on the list over at tamiya blog of upcoming releases. I bet people will gather more excitement once pictures come out. I think its pretty cool that the TA03 will be getting another lease. Lets see the TA03TRF kit get another run too
  13. Driving in the snow is great fun. I would re assure your dad that chances of breaking in the snow is not much higher than in regular conditions. As long as you have waterproof electronics. One thing I think your dad would be more upset about is a wet muddy car being brought into the house. Do you have a utility sink or shop sink to rinse off the muck in? that would probably resolve any problems. Another thing to add is that an air compressor with the blow nozzle is very useful to take the car outdoors and blow off. Basically after running in water or snow you need to clean the car off and let it dry well. Once the water has mostly left spray a small coating of wd40 on the metal parts to stop rust.
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