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guggles

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About guggles

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  • Birthday January 30

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  1. Im in the U.S. Is it the electric or nitro version?
  2. Ive got my original HPI cars and need a few parts that are either outrageously expensive or practically impossible to get. If any members have some of this stuff please let me know. I have a HPI rs4 sport 2 that needs the following: Driveshafts, Front stub axles Front bumper (including foam), front shock tower, front body posts I have a HPI Nitro RS4 MT that needs: Center slipper clutch section parts
  3. Update: Advante is now sold, Everything else is still available. I have a wide array of vintage RC10 tires/wheels and parts, I also have alot of early 2000's HPI RS4 MT and Nitro RS4 MT parts, If by any chance that interrests anybody here send me a PM please
  4. Blue threadlocker is low strength which will allow you to remove the screw if needed.
  5. take one of the top paper tags off the screw bags you've opened and then slip it inbetween the gear and the motor. it doesnt need to be so tight that you cant pull the paper out afterwards just snug. Tighten the small screw on the pinion gear before you pull the paper out. Be careful not to over tighten the screw on the motor gear. Nice and snug will do it. I always use a very small amount of blue threadlocker on the grub screws for pinions because they have a habit of shaking loose.
  6. Not sure about restoring it, generally once a battery reaches that low of voltage it cant be saved. What about looking for a A123 racing distributor because that battery has those cells in it. I had a A123 racing battery and charger around 2009 Im surprised to see they still make rc batteries. Another option is to start using lipo batteries and chargers instead.
  7. Old HPI cars used to have super narrow hexs on one of the parts trees. Never knew what cars they were for but came in handy for narrowing track width. You could always shave down the plastic hexes carefully on a belt sander. That would easily give you a couple mm.
  8. Yeah, basically the market for scale trucks was created by Tamiya and they cant take advantage of the success to be had in it now. Posts on here by tamiya fans say they dont like the body on the CC02 and the scaler enthusiasts will just laugh at its performance. Its astonishing the first crawer TLT-1 conversons were over a decade ago and this is the closest to a copy we get. A couple of different body options including hardbodys would also get me to buy one. Maybe the marketing dept. just likes to play games with me
  9. I have a DB01 if interested in that
  10. I am starting to get pretty excited for this chassis. The g wagon is nice. I really want a 4th gen 4runner that would be amazing with all the small tamiya details. retail is $246.40 pre-order at tower hobbies.
  11. I think the main issues with racing for me at the moment is time and hassle. I have to step back from racing when I notice my fun and enjoyment start to wane. Many people can never miss a race in the season and I wish I was like that sometimes. Carpet racing all night and then getting home at 1am can be a lot of fun at times. Other times not so much. Expectations are a hard pill to swallow. Usually I want to just take a stock kit and not stray too far from a kit setup to do well, maybe that is too much. Improvements to cars have become very minor but in my experience last years model with a perfect setup and many upgrades can still get left behind by the latest and greatest. Financially, my rational isnt buying new race kits every season. My old cars stay mostly stock why upgrade when your better off with the new platform. I could keep going but the racing experience is really great and performance of cars mind bottling compared to even a decade ago. My driving skills I hope could get better, I would have to find motivation and fun in crashing a bunch to get there haha.
  12. gear diffs filled with gear oil feel lovely and smooth however Once the fluid starts to leak out because the seals have started to go bad is another story haha. I would put the gear oil in the diffs because it really is quite nice and takes a while for them to start to leak. I suppose it all depends on how much enjoyment you get out of maintenance. Grease will last for a very long time. Never heard of or seen in person this grey sludge you speak of. Do you have a link for that? I would wager that is cause by mixing of different brands or types. Tamiya AW grease is nice, looks almost like anti-seize for cars. I wonder if it has any lead in it too. The standard molly black grease is also great for metal parts it seems to be thicker than AW so I use it on parts where it wont slow down the car. One last thing to mention is the kit tamiya pinions wear down fairly fast compared to steel. Is this the same on the XV01? You might want to look at sourcing a steel replacement pinon if this is the case.
  13. your old school competition replica builds are some of my favorite Please keep em coming! The black chassis is in really good shape as is. Looking forward to seeing the next update... Mugen was unheard of to me until the modern buggies became very popular a few years ago at the local track.
  14. What a nice car! The black wheels really look quite nice too. its no wonder your scared to drive it with all the fancy parts. I think your gear mesh might be set too close because the wheels stop quickly after the throttle is applied. I do not have any experience with this chassis which that may be normal, just thought id point my observations. Is the ESC setup with a drag brake? that could be what I am seeing too. Also I would suggest soldering the wires directly onto the motor. The bullet connectors do stick out and could be vulnerable to shocks, or impacts. Awesome car and been enjoying the build. Its a shame that the FWD TC chassis havent taken off like 4wd has. I find it very cool to have the drive line match the body of the car.
  15. So plain and basic but much better than amazon packages
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