guggles

I, for some reason doubt that. As someone whos rc workbench looks like a day care after an arts and crafts day. For some reason my work bench has the magical ability to get parts I have no clue what they go to on it. At the same time, the part I just put down and need had magically disappeared. @GToddC5 Those mini tool boxes are just too cool also! Tempting me to have one for tools and one for organizers of hardware, bearings, ect.

Try plexus plastic cleaner and polish! Its really amazing stuff.

black, or moly grease possibly?

It was late in the morning from working on the bench last night, but that still counts as doing something today right? Trying to get this runner Hpi Nitro Rs4 MT ready for a race this weekend. Fought with my original plan which was to use a MT2, but couldnt get the driveshafts I had to not bottom out in the drive cups. And the diffs were a major pain to get how I wanted them. So I settled for the original MT driveline with MT2 front bumper and some other hop ups I had lying around to hopefully get the durability up as much as possible. This was my first nitro Kit ever and I got it when new! Now many years later I am hopefully good enough at building and running to actually race this model! haha better late than never. My main goal is just to finish a race, that is if any of the other modern "Mini Truggys" show up. (I think its actually called 4wd stadium truck class you whipper snappers). Since they will be racing with grandpa here they better show some respect

+1 on cleaning up the flash on the outside edge with a dremel or file or something. Its hard to tell from the pictures but the gear teeth do look ok. Didnt really do a whole lot of rc stuff today, besides breaking in a new motor. A lot of tanks just letting the motor set in at a low rpm. I think it got enough oil through it

T-Maxx 4909 Build The 4909 model was the first T-maxx with the 3.3 engine, short wheelbase 4mm chassis and the revo spec trans w/ reverse. It was released in 2006 and was only produced for a short time before was updated with the model (4908) that has a slightly different center driveshaft and brake setup, longer chassis, no reverse, new bell cranks and other minor changes. I scored this hodgepodge of a roller on ebay and set about rescuing it. The thing that really turned me on to this car was the RPM arms and the super good condition vintage Tmaxx body. I think this body sets the car's vintage look off and is pretty cool. So when I got the roller, my investigations found that this car actually has the super narrow RPM T-maxx arms, the platform was updated shortly after release (1999) to have wider arms. Thats ok though, I just cut down the beefier Tmaxx 3.3 sliders to fit. The center transmission from a 4908 T-maxx wouldnt fit without customizing the chassis and servo mount. I clearanced out the space for the new transmission and made a custom servo mount. I didnt fret cutting the chassis because this one is already hacked up. The long wheelbase T-maxx 3.3 has Revo center shafts which stick out further from the case and are bigger than the 4909 model. I had to cut the front center driveshaft to only about 1cm of slider. It makes me nervous having that section of the driveshaft so small. So far it hasnt been a problem and I ordered the original 4909 model forward only center shaft, center driveshafts, aluminum brake hex and brake disc to use if it becomes a durability issue. For other parts, I got a new 2.5 broken in for it which is still plenty of power and super fun. With a Hot racing lightweight flywheel it idles nice and smooth and gets on the pipe quick. It pulls wheelies no problem. I got T-maxx masher tires on wide offset wheels which make the width the same as the widemaxx suspension. I also got a sweet vintage Hotbodies T-maxx pipe which looks great and works well. A full set of big bore shocks goes on the springs which we all know make the T-maxx atleast 80% better. Anyways, hope this dive into the Vintage T-maxx madness was fun for you all. let me know if you have any comments or questions. I will update when the next nitro build is ready, I mainly focus on the early 2000's nitro models at this moment. I hope this subject matter is of some interest to the community! Until next time,

This thread is for the nitro builds that I find gratifying. I dont have the ability to do a separate build thread for each vehicle as I try to get them done in a few days or less. As much as it would be great to go more in depth of each build, I find it slows the progress and the fun I have during the build. This thread will serve as reference for others and document the projects. I will also try and share any running help for newcomers and also feature the cars running. Please, come in and make yourself at home!

Thought I would share my SCX24 crawler build, because I just got it done today (well 80% done there's always more to be done with scratch building) Also I don't really see any of these guys on the forum, which makes sense, but is a darn shame. I can say that honestly they are just as much fun as the bigger ones! (and easier to hoard too ) Hope you all are having a pleasant weekend!

Hello my fellow TC enthusiasts! I am unable to properly identify the name of this chassis that I recently acquired. It seems like somebody in the community with their vast knowledge of vintage RC's may be able to help me. Here it is! It seems like a cross between the Kyosho GP Outlaw Rampage Pro (the old one not the recent model) and a Kyosho Sandmaster. It has the Pro suspension and an aluminum chassis but has a Sandmaster style transmission with a slipper. What do you guys think this is? Is is a Sandmaster with upgraded suspension and chassis or a Pro with a lower level transmission? Or is it a completely different model? Mystery Solved, A member on RC10Talk properly identified it as a Kyosho Nitro Pro ST (1996). Thanks in advance! Also the rear wheel axles use a tapered fit with the metal hexes and there is no pin!

Very good work, those tail lights look just like the full scale lights!

There is a reason why since the inception of bearings in wheels on a spindle, there are two bearings used. No matter if it is a roller bearing, tapered roller bearing or a ball bearing. I cant really explain why its needed in super technical terms, but it is all about the force that the bearing can take. It can take straight down force very well, but when the bearing is loaded and a force trys to tilt the bearing on itself its bad, very bad. Its why bearings are susceptible to damage with installation. Force on inner race pushing side to side.

The problem for me with 3d printers is that I have already waited long enough through the adoption curve, That I might as well be a late stage adopter. When they finally make a consumer level 3d printer that can print with fine surface finish and details, but also strength too. The 3d printers now are very good, but the parts still are not durable enough for many of the uses I want. The resin printers are even more amazing at printing very small details, but the material can not take much heat, and the parts are weaker than 3d printed plastic.

May I suggest building a dividing wall on the gap in the front of the chassis and filling the empty space with epoxy? Seems like a much easier and durable way to fill in the space. What a nice jeep you have, I am sure you will be able to repair the body!

Do you have any experience in nitro? Do you know anyone with lot of experience in nitro? I would say the most important part of getting started in nitro is having someone with experience to teach you. All the other stuff doesnt really matter if you cant get the car running well and dont have fun with it! The big detriment to nitro is you really need first hand experience to understand it. What usually happens is people get them, cant get them running right and get discouraged and move on. Its really sad because its such a rewarding and enjoyable experience in the RC hobby. (if you know what you are doing). I would research alot, and prepare to get really frustrated and not have the car run well or at all until you get more practice. If you are willing to invest this time and energy into learning about it then go for it! Some tips I think will help: It doesnt matter what method you break the engine in, any method will work. The claims of engine lifespan and performance are purely anecdotal from different break in methods. I would do the method of running the engine at temperature for a few tanks idling and start driving the car around gently for a few more tanks and then start tuning the top so it is still a little rich but runs well. Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the engine up to around 200* F and do this for the first half dozen times you go and run the engine. Will make the piston not get stuck and make starting easier. When starting the engine use throttle trim or your finger on the gas and give it just a little throttle until it starts easily and keeps running. Keep the engine at a high idle (not more than 1/4 throttle though) for about 5 minutes to heat it up. then go and run the car at factory settings or your last tune if the weather is similar for about half a tank and observe the performance. it should be a little slow and sluggish at first but after about a half a tank or so it should start to run right. The biggest trap to get stuck in is tuning too much and too quickly. If the engine has a super high pitched and dry sounding noise at the top end with no smoke (lean), richen 2 hours on HSN and see the change. A new engine will be harder to keep a really consistent and pefect tune on the low end. This is because of the internal engine friction and pinch. Dont focus to much on having the engine start perfect everytime or run at a perfect low idle all the time, just try and keep it running and make sure the top has good fuel. If it dies oh well start it up again and fiddle around with it a bit. Remember make small changes and be patient, and also have fun!

Not very versed on the TNX platform so cant say if the R came with a clear body set. Knowing Tamiya they should offer an unpainted shell. Is it a different body from the regular TNX shell? Also thanks for sharing, I hope to see your results!

I got the fortress 2gallon from harbor freight. I really like it! Might be a little bit more noisy than a small airbrush compressor but it really is very quiet compared to a large compressor. I like the larger tank size. It also can be used for lots of other small projects too. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-gallon-135-psi-ultra-quiet-oil-free-hand-carry-jobsite-air-compressor-64596.html

Does it have to be Tamiya Because if not: Nitro Rustler/Sport. Fun, Cheap as chips, cheerful, can beat them up without feeling guilty. Also can drive on dirt, pavement and short grass. I mean come on whats not to love about this?: https://a.l3n.co/i/Sf9iCo.mp4?open=true If it has to be a Tamiya then likely a BBX,TNX, Lunchie or a Top Force

+1 Kimbrough 124 or maybe the lunchie needs the smaller version? Not sure maybe other Tamiya heads can chirp in. You can always get the large servo saver and trim it down to fit. Also assuming you are using a metal gear servo, because the heavy duty servo saver will strip plastic servo gears.

my recommendation for a lubricant: https://www.whitelightningco.com/products/lubricants/clean-ride Goes on wet and drys to a wax film that does not attract dirt and can definitely help smooth out driveshafts, ball cups and other joints.

One thing to keep in mind too is thread lock will attach many of the older plastics, so best to be carful when working one some rare or vintage kit. I had part of my vintage wild one chassis crumble in my hands because I used some thread lock on a machine nut next to the plastic

If your anywhere near as clumsy as me, you let go of the link and have an unbalance single blade helicopter of death in your hand! Best be careful!

Blue- if it still comes out add a little more goo. Green- its a little more mean and might put up a fight if you know what I mean. Red- its never going to be undone again. Nyloc hardware.

Simply stunning! But you forgot the cable ties for the exhaust coupler

are you talking about the brass bushings? never heard of them called that before haha. I use them for crawler builds where the axles will get wet all the time so that I don't trash bearings. Also for shelf queens or for cars that will get run infrequently.

Congrats and enjoy the build!