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Everything posted by Singapore_959

  1. Paul, it warms my heart to see the parts being used. Thanks for posting up and keeping the flame bright. It's going to beautiful. Lovely work esp using the dust shields on the parts. Thumbs UP! Not sure about the spring idea, but very interested to see a new idea (like it!) and to know how it goes. Wondering if there will be sufficient friction on the spring ends. Gareth at Boca will want to drop dead in shock seeing the bearings being put on a car with a big ABEC sticker on the wing!! The boca bearings cost more than the car!
  2. LURKER! Certainly agree. We are in one of those lull periods for good posts and threads. Use the kits and look at your empty blisters with pride! It's been built! It looks beautiful. It goes fanstically. And it's MINE! Would be my mentality. I'd love to have a drive of one off these. Build them and enjoy them!
  3. Do you like driving? NZ is a fabulous place to drive around, great roads. There is small company around Auckland (husband/wife biz) that rents out MX5's. Rates were much better than the usual car hire places and rwd, beautiful countryside, and even ON beach main road give plenty of special drives. Coramandle (spelling) and bay of islands areas, you can even drive to the very northern tip of NZ, all make compelling reasons to drive in the north. Wonderful place for a trip. You should have a great time!
  4. I have brand new still in shrink wrap TS paints (spay cans) for sale. Located in QLD, Australia. Will post anywhere. RRP is/was 15AUD when they were available. I was going to ebay them but rather they go to TC members. TS-3 Dark Yellow x2 TS-7 Racing White TS-9 British Green TS-12 Orange x2 TS-15 Blue TS-18 Metallic Red x2 TS-26 Pure White Hope this can help out those wanting due to the labeling problem recall. NB. Post at own risk. I will pack them in bubble wrap and tissue to damp out the rattle noise as best as poss.
  5. Go the Wild one. The tough as nuts, genuinely perpetual & controllable tailslide fun, and they're unusual in that they somehow don't give one the feeling of needing to mod it. Real "use" models. Every year it's my most used model. Reliable old friend. While on the topic of vintage 2wd, any excuse for my fav DS photo too
  6. As shown on the blog today. Amazing what can be done with Tamiya paints. Bon appetit! Plamodel blog link
  7. nooooo! Community spirit! Don't shy out. It's part of the fun sharing it on the forum (for me at least). Did you contact RW?
  8. ...I'll just make a mould at school, ship them to Tigermoth Racing (deliver it personally even if I have to) and let them produce my parts! chop chop! Pargu2000 is trying to beat you, but his design left the orig press nut holes in . see here: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...mp;#entry399468 You can do it Paul! Great to see DS fans having fun!
  9. Lovely, well done on your effort. As they appear to be an exact copy of the originals there is one problem: You left the press nut holes in. As Your part is alloy the press nuts will just spin, then damage the alloy; leaving you with the same problem as the originals. When you make your second batch perhaps just make it a threaded hole for the screw. That would fix the original problem.
  10. LOL Would live to know how this number was worked out! That's part of a video/experiment I never want to see unless its a cheap China knockoff with fireworks attached.
  11. Bliss. I wish I could go! http://translate.google.com/translate?u=ht...=1&ie=UTF-8 and more details here: http://translate.googleusercontent.com/tra...tZxkXLqE1hg0m9A Bakaguyjean! - can you attend and be TC's rep and reporter?!!
  12. Well I think the forum itself is a 'chatroom' Maybe I am just getting old and uncool though
  13. Its a fun truck. I had one and enjoyed it. Due to the gearbox is can take big motors and can really fly on good off road tracks. It has only one main weakness, imo, which is the same as the DS but amplified due to its longer arms. The arm holders / D part blocks. But if you drive it sensibly and put in a longer screw and add a nyloc nut on the rear blocks then it is unlikely to give trouble. If you hit a corner hard in the front the front D block is likely to break and they are very difficult to source. TR-15T, DB, and DS parts are interchangable. It's like any vintage model - alot of fun but some parts are hard to source. If you can get it, enjoy it! BTW, it's great to see so many knowledgeable people answering the thread. It's cool there are so many DS fans/enthusiasts with so much experience shared Nothing like a powwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwer sliding DS type chassis
  14. Sorry to hear this Paul. This is why I was so amazed at R-design/nimrod, they have everything inhouse which is so expensive. There machines do the molding in a full vacum chamber. Couple of suggestions- look up 'prototype engineering' in NL (google etc) and contact local co's and explain the problem. They may offer to do it as work experience for you or simply quote if they have spare capacity. Pref find one who like modeling! Book a Easter Holiday to Hungary and contact the boys and ask for a few days experience in the lab on the machines to make the parts! Contact CNC specialists and get the parts milled out of alloy. RW racing in UK as I suggested previously seem perfect for this.... Wish I could help further . Things are still **** my end. Chin up!! You can do it!!
  15. Linky no worky. Fixed that for you. http://www.teamtrf.com/index.php/component...a-racer-rewards Great incentives! Super to have support from TamiyaUSA like this. Hint hint to the other global representatives
  16. Love this never imagined this was possible
  17. L O A D S. You just need to search a bit on D and NL hobby forum sites. I used to visit them several years ago. And in Germany you have the largest amount of vintage Tamiya in Europe thanks to being Dickie's largest (and home) market. There are bound to be events around where you live. The Dutch guys also hold TC get togethers which look good in the photos. Also rc sailing groups cater to alot of vintage passion. There is a good vintage scene in CEE also, but that is a bit further from you. In CZ and HU there are alot of activities and the vintage cars get alot of respect and passion. We get Austrians and Romanians joining sometimes too.
  18. I got to pick up and look at the M-06 Pro today. It's low. Comes with proper hinge pins The rear hinge pins are '1-way' I mean that only the back of the car end takes an eclip. The other end is molded as a metal ball stud to mount the shock absorber The steering CRANKS are still black plastic. The post tops are the blue hop up. The steering cross bar is blue metal but it is new and different from the M05. Not interchangeable. The stock angle of the steering arms practically horizontal. Nice. The battery compartment is long. There is a screw in base/bumper that can be moved to make the holder the correct length for batteries. The above is due to: the chassis is not one piece ! Up to the end of the servo place it is one piece, after than it is a second large part all the way to the back of the car. This is how the S,M,L chassis sizes are accomplished. There is a third circa 1cm piece that fits in between. Different overlapping screw holes in both main parts let you choose the length you want. It's good as it means the rear suspension arms can stay the same. The front and rear upper arms are adjustable, and both f&r mount on HORIZONTAL ball nuts inboard. The angle of the rear upper adjustable arms to where they mount inboard below the shock tower is LARGE. Looks rather too angled to me, maybe easy to pop off in a bang? The left gearbox side that also covers the motor does this only to screw the rear bumper into. It does not support the motor at all. So I am struggling to understand the benefit of this side part being offered as a blue metal 'hop up'. The mounting of the rear body post towers is two separate parts. This means 2 places causing potential body post movement. Front end is very solid and the battery area does not extend under the steering cross bar. There is space here to mount a transponder down on the bottom of the chassis, and thus near the front of the car. I could bend the chassis a bit. Not alot but enough to be slightly disappointed. I couldn't weigh it but there was a M05 next to it and I cannot say for sure if it is lighter or heavier. Because of the motor hanging out back it was giving me mind freaks that it felt much heavier but I don't trust my hand scales I hope it is the same weight or lighter (though this felt unlikely). Its a nice chassis and its the most interesting new Tamiya to me this year (I'm too much of a Dyna fan to fall in love with the 201 yet ). However I was disappointed that it didn't feel lighter and that I could flex it. Otherwise its nice. I do feel the M04 is a better car, but since its not TCS legal its of no use. That is still the best M chassis car imo. Best part of all for me : the wide flat underbody. Finally an M chassis with some decent aero underneath!
  19. NOTE - the design we settled on back then was threaded in metal of the mounts themselves. This leaves the option of adding a spring washer and nyloc nut on top, or simply screwed into the blocks.
  20. Ok, I'll weigh in here. Paul's (ORC) enthusiasm and dedication to continuing with the project is great, and commendable. All the suggestions are good and sound. For anyone planning on doing it from scratch in CAD like Paul (and I take my hat off too him, I can't even start a CAD program) there is a significant main hurdle - getting the exact degree measurements of the anti squat and the toe in. These are critical and hence why I went to Nimrod in the beginning. It was all laser measured for accuracy. Making a part in a vacuum or a cnc machine is pointless unless these are totally correct. Paul looks like he has covered this as he has all my parts (nimrod and orig) to measure from and access to uni tools. The ultimate answer is already understood and designed. It lacks only an affordable cnc contact. I mentioned this in the past. The left and right parts need to be combined into modern touring car style hinge pin holders, the rear one incorporating the bumper mount. Paul knows this as per his comment above. I had already designed this with Nimrod, but since we had no cost effective metal cnc contact at the time and the boys were and continue to be plastic specialists and focused, it never made it to production. If someone wants to finish this off finally then they will need to get Nimrod to dust of the CAD files and have them ready for CNC work (if they are not already), these then need to be given to a manufacturer and payment made for a batch. Finding someone with a reasonable price and getting enough people to actually pay upfront is a challenge. Fact is there is not even 20 people willing to pay up in full in advance to get this done, we might realistically get 8 people that I can think of based on experience to date. We are a great group of passionate fans, but a small group. If I had known about RW racing in the UK 2+ years ago this might have gone further. I think Neil could do this, given what I know about him now. Certainly I would think he is one to approach. Well done Paul, I hope this continues on!
  21. Weller all the way. Try ebay and google. 80W adjustable. Weller WESD51 Digital Soldering Station with Power Unit, Soldering Pencil, Stand, Sponge HTH
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