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Everything posted by Singapore_959

  1. I used modern Corrally foam tires when I ran my Can Am lola a few years ago. I don't remember the sizes offhand, but if the 956 wheels are the same / very close to the same as modern 1/12 wheels then you should be able to do what I did. You will need a tyre truer to trim the foams down to the right width. Shops selling 1/12 tires usually have a truer so they could do it for you. tip - put elastoplast sticky plaster over the tamiya rim and then use 2 part epoxy to glue the tires on. This way you can peel off the plaster if you want to remove the tires later, and keep the rims in good condition. If you are not racing then you can ofcourse just use the normal double sided tape method. HTH
  2. Go give your Dad a big hug! That was a special gift then, and it's an even more special item today.
  3. Buy the TT-01 chassis, do whats been mentioned a few times already in this thread, and go out and practice more. Practice, learning lines, subtlety of proper wheel glueing, shock setting, careful build and polishing/oiling, will improve your laptimes far more than a "faster silver can". And for what I hope will really get you thinking more about the above than a faster motor - is the fact that after your first run with your new 'hot' motor, it will be dirty and require maintenance to remain 'faster'. The likelyhood is after 15 mins running the motor will be as fast as your original motor..... Practice and enjoy the car. Less worrying about the motor! AH yes, for my final contribution (which I have posted somewhere here previously some years ago) : A former Tamiya Euro champion is a good friend of mine. Several years ago he turned up to a race day with a RM2 Datsun that he bought of ebay. During practice we opened the box, dusted it off, checked the bearings, put some additive on the tire and put in one of the battery packs from my mod'ed Datsun. We put in a modern receiver, but left the rest of the car as it was. 1970s mechanical speedo, servos and motor. Robi then put the car on the carpet. During the next 5mins he practiced with other modern F1 Tamiya cars. HE COULD LAP SOME OF THEM. Yes it was AWESOME. And a VERY strong reminder that it is hugely the driving in rc racing that makes the difference. Practice and ENJOY!
  4. Quote of the thread! And exactly why this is going to be a success for Tamiya.
  5. COOL! Now there is even a socket set! HUDY NEWS
  6. Interesting thread As per others above I have used most of the above tools, including the previous type TRF blue set. I found HUDY to be the best of all. The materials are excellent, they look good after years of use, and they would likely command the best resale. I would love to say the TRF ones were the best, but the HUDY are better. Also, I find this modern trend for thin round metal handles perplexing. They may take up slightly less space in a tool box/roll, but they are just not comfortable. And when used with force (usu non r/c related) they shred your skin. The HUDY profiTool line with the big black rubberised plastic handles are by far the most comfortable an easiest to modulate force with. They fit in a hand/palm grip better. They are my favourite tools. Click for set PHOTO http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.p...ench-15-x-120mm HTH
  7. Topic self removed due to some ruffled feathers.
  8. I've had this before. Racked my brains trying to sort it out and in the end it was b a s i c I couldn't believe I had been so silly. Everytime you disconnect on some basic escs and or unplug motor wires, the esc needs to be reset (ie. full fwd, then full reverse) then TURNED OFF, and then turned ON AGAIN to work. Otherwise it keeps doing exactly what you were experiencing. It was easy to remember to do the set up, but it's easy to forgot to OFF/ON after.
  9. Ditto. As usual, top advice from 94eg!
  10. My post here is on this exact topic of whats good: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...c=58989&hl=
  11. I'm not sure what you managed to polish since it can't (ie shouldn't) be disassembled)? As suggested earlier a tiny drop or two of bushing oil on both top and bottom bushes is a basic first step. Then comm drops are a second. To do this requires: bright lamp thin screw driver, allen key, or needle com drops - from the holes in the end of the can and/or the sides use the thin driver to lift up each brush arm - this leaves a space between the brush and the com - take your com drop bottle with its long thin need nose and carefully apply a drop of fluid. Repeat for both bushes. Take care not too damage/bend and mis align the bushes/bush carrying arms. Run in the motor using the technique in my prior post. HTH Ofcourse an easier way of selecting the fastest silver can in a group (race hand out or your own supply) is to connect directly to a battery and select the one with the best/highest pitch noise. Indicating higher rpm. Race organisers take an impatient view of this usually however, as its considered a waste of time - silver can classes are more about learning to drive and set up the car to make the difference on track. Enjoy your time on track. And buy the same type of car as the majority are using!
  12. The Technigold is a fabulous motor. Terrific performance.
  13. LOL - Willy gives the game away Actually no, I was actually using the REAL old 540 with the black plastic cap end from the '80s. These definitely have no advantage. Just go out and have fun, it comes down to consistent driving 90% of the time. Willy - you ever up in the Gold Coast? I'll be there at Christmas with my folks as usu. Would be cool to meet sometime.
  14. You can buy 'tuned' silver cans from a member on rctech. But why? stock silver can racing should be enjoyed without thinking about motor tuning beyond the normal. That's why most Tamiya organised races globally provide hand out motors which are returned at the end of the day, and at the next race repeated so you always get a different one, so all racers have a mover even chance. Typical things done at all races I attend are 3-5min water dipping (they don't short, just connect and put the whole thing in a sturdy glass). Oiling the bushings, com drops under the brushes, onto the comm light run in for few mins after that. If you want to go overboard you can do this again halfway thru the day. People who force the can to advance timing should be named and shamed and sent to the back of the grid and made to pay for a new motor. Its obvious on the straight who has most power and cheating should be easy to spot. If you feel you are still much slower (same chassis) then check your bearings, hubs, etc and diffs. After that it comes down to your finger finesse at the TX! I like to point out that absolutely the best days I ever have racing are when I don't give two hoots about the motor and have a problem with the car that means its not competitive, so I just have an tremendously fun time hammering it as best as possible without having any expectation at all of winning. I used to have this all the time with my 'Splitty M01 and most recently I put my ancient silver can Wild One in the Tamiya Cup 2wd catagory and with 20+ year old hard as concrete tires I slid and spun my way around every heat and race with intense concentration and a huge grin (or tongue between my teeth, lol) on my face trying to keep it in a straight line. And you know what? It was nearly as fast on the straight with a TWENTY YEAR OLD silver can as the other new DT02s! The rest of the track was another matter but it was huge fun. Who needs the fastest silver can!
  15. Typically this is a dead battery. Same as most watches. You can take the cover of the stopwatch face (yes, really) and underneath it is the battery housing. Simple fix.
  16. Loosen both motor screws a little and move the motor a little bit further away from the spur. The noise is usually caused by meshing the pinion too tightly against the spur gear. Aside from the noise it will eventually wear out the motor from overheating/stress. HTH KCs are fun!
  17. If you are still there around Christmas, I can drive you and I up for one of the Boondal meets. I will be in GC visiting my folks.
  18. Thanks Andy. Chris has now emailed and I've replied. Will let you know when its resolved. Cheers!
  19. Hi Andy, Chris, the renewal is not working, for my account at least. I got the normal auto reminder last month - 8th Sept - did all the clicking and thought nothing of it. Yesterday tried to log into my showroom for the first time in a while and I get the message sub has expired, please click on the link, I do so, nothing happens I do so repeatedly and I eventually get http://www.tamiyaclub.com/paymentinstructions.asp?r=true screen, with the following message- An error occurred on the server when processing the URL. Please contact the system administrator. First time in years it hasn't worked automatically as it should. Can you please assist? Thanks
  20. Always been futaba, with the exception of KO Propo when I could afford it. The KO stuff is expensive but thats for good reason. Point of interest is that my futaba's have always been the older Attack 2 channel stick sets, and they actually have far further range than modern sets. Which is cool for sailing. :-) The new KO Eurus is great however I have to say I was a little disappointed with the plastic quality. It doesn't feel as upmarket at the equiv new futabas, which is a bit **** when they cost so much. Performs brilliantly though.
  21. Having had the pleasure of racing both I can say that the Can Am Lola RM1 (Looooooove that full name!!) accelerates faster, but the Daytona THUNDER (also love that name, sort of begs you to SHOUT the second word out when you say it :-P ) tops out higher. SO in the electric stakes, DT for the win over all e Tamiya's I believe? Pity the fastest electric Tamiya has to be one that didn't actually come with a Tamiya body !! :lol:
  22. YEAH - MODS SUCK! just JOKING and trying to lighten up what could become a bashing thread. Prob should be locked? I understand, having had this frustration before. I also see both sides and have only one comment - over time we are seeing long time, high contribution members quietening down / getting disenchanted and returning to the site less. That's the thing that is a shame. But I think it's cyclical and look forward to more time and energy for passion from all concerned. I'm grateful for the community spirit, and the effort of the mod (lets face it, it seems to be Andy only lately) even tho I can get peeved off greatly once every few years like you have. Group hug ;-)
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