Singapore_959

" Witness the Frog - they chose to only make minor changes to that, which was a good thing as it means the parts are compatible with the older cars, and the nostalgia freaks aren't put off by the changes. And .... " Freaks! [] [] Who you call'n freaks? !! Hahahaha ....guess that means me and 99.999999% of us on here! [] [] []

"YES, ...(pause).. in the hands of the experienced driver, the Can Am can win the big one for you" including & followed by corny music ...Always makes me laugh hearing that! Classic piece of marketing [] []

Thanks guys! 1. I know the video, it's part of the appeal in having the car [] What I can never understand is why they say it has a limited slip diff ? It only has a std bevel type diff. Actually was first puzzeled and then disappointed when I first studied the manual a long time ago. The vid is cool - but a bit misleading. 2. Terry - unfortunely the gearcase A (see diagram) covers the grubscrew so it can't be got at. It can't be pulled out unless the shaft is pullable - requiring the other side to be free [:'(] There are some holes in the gearcase A, but the drive gear covers then 3/4 so I can't get an allen key in even though the grub screw is conveniently visible directly under one of these holes. [:'(] I will cut open the top of an old humpy and put the new made hump cells into that (using the case as a sort of carrier), so that should keep the ridgidity, and hopefully help with the heat concern. Ah, old cars. Don't you just love how uncomplicated they seem at first!! [] []

By moving the battery across the chassis you move the weight back and spread it out across the chassis. Both of these will give you less steering and less agility, it will be more resistant to changing direction. The chassis flexes a lot because that was the suspension technology back then. Either side of the front battery mount there are tweak screws that you adjust to make sure it turns left and right the same amount. The old battery pack also acted as a stressed member to help support the front of the chassis. Yes, suspected as much. [Y] I am going to order some new humpys made up for it now. Easy one this. The grub screw D2 has come loose inside the diff, which allows the diff assembly to slide along the axle. The diff housing prevents the screw coming out any further. You will need to dismantle the diff and threadlock the grub screw in. Will do. Wasn' sure of it as it moves perfectly fwd and reverse with no slack, but a fractionally loose grub would agree with your point. It's the same as the screw in the other side. As it is a steel screw in an aluminium hole over time an electrolytic action can cause the screw to weld itself into the aluminium. used a decent nut driver to try and remove it. I have found this problem in the past myself on a touring car where the steel bolts were frozen into the aluminum diff housingswhichI ended up having to drill out the screws and retap the holes. AH. Thanks. ******. I think a new driveshaft is going to be needed as a precaution. I cannot take off the diff unless I I get this offside wheel off. Thanks Terry, this is all a big help. [Y]

So it's more oversteery now? Ie. the back end is more twitchy or loose? Thanks posting! []

Agreed. Lipo at 1C, ie. 1.8 for 1800 or 3.3 for 3300 etc. Lots of infor on rctech forums about this. Provided the charger you use for your heli (cool btw!) goes to high enough amps, why dont you just continue using that. I like the Orion Aviation Advantage charger personally. Current racers trend in the US for NiMh seems to be charging at 6amps with a set peak of 3 something or rather. I was told never to charge above 4amps, but the pro racers regularly use 6 (BUT NO HIGHER!). Hope that helps.

"Raced" no, but have run mine quite a bit when it was a late-model contemporary RC. [:^)] umm, yea 20+ yrs ago. There is probably very little advantage in drilling out the mount to use screws, you'd have to ream out the rest of it if you wanted to make it adjustable for mesh. (from memory I think youhad to change spur + pinion as a pair...? 2 or 3 pairs included in kit?) Try it with the Black Motor or maybe even a Sport Tuned. Seeing how crazy fast a Sport Tuned can push a GrpC car, you'll not be wanting for speed... also from memory, RM1 was a crazy donut machine if one didn't know how to drive. Agreed, hence thinking the dynatech as it will fit. Evidence seems to suggest I can drive [] and at the last races with the dynateched group c I was 1,1, and 2. So hoping I can give the old Can Am a good showing on its race 'debut' [] [] have done same before too, trying to fit a 1200SC pack when the old humper was retired. However I thought the stick pack transversely made it too weight-biased to the rear, it lost steering and understeer got worse. Ended up building a new humppack with loose cells instead... methink it handles sweeter with the battery in the middle. Agreed, I am going to get 2 packs mad up. But how did you keep them in - seem just to wedge against the motor. Was heat transfer not a problem? I am thinking of velcroing it down so it keeps the small gap possible. I'd suggest opening up the diff and making sure all 3 big (1510?) ballbearings are intact & operational. OK, will do! Shouldn't be too much freeplay, this was one overengineering piece of kit. My thoughts exactly. yep its a standard screw with a hexhead. Head has some barbs on it (like a 3mm flanged locknut) that grabs the wheel's plastic. If your Tamiya wrench is a bit worn, THROW IT OUT! [] I can't - it's emotional you know! [] seriously, that is not it. It is just stuck fast. Go buy some nice Hudy 7mm & 5.5mm drivers, you'll love them. (I got many of mine from Sam Cheng @ Far East) Cool, will do. Thanks for your feedback. It is GREATLY appreciated. [] []

Going direct drive - how does it run? [] I have got the direct drive (ie. no diff) spool for the Can Am. I am wondering what it will drive like with it on I am tempted to race with it as the diff assembly is 'loose' compared to a modern, eg. group c, assembly/tolerances. And I am worried about vibrations and badly wearing out the assembly / rear unit. Anybody tried it ? [au] [au] [au]

If you have I'd like to hear from you! Please see my thread on this in the Vintage section. Thanks! [] [au]

Who has raced the Can Am Lola before? Experiences, advice and re-collections wanted! I am about to race my newly aquired Can Am on the 18th. Prob showing your age, but please speak up if you have raced this car in the past! [] [*] The motor is held in by two pins, not screws. A la SRB. I can't see room enough to drill and put in screws in. Anyone mod'd this? Also, the rear of the motor is sandwiched into the metal motor/g.box frame, via a ROUND recess that fits the small round bit on the end of the motor. Modern motors don't have this. So I think the latest motor I can use is a Dynatech. 2. Battery has been moved into a sideways postion, from the orig chassis lengthwise. Anyone used this? Does it make the car handle (on carpet) it better or worse? It means the chassis flexes ALOT (bear in mind it has no suspension at all). 3. The diff and spur gear can be moved about 2mm left and right, while the driveshaft (axel) stays immobile. Yet, they move with the driveshaft fwd & reverse perfectly with zero play/looseness. How can this be? Cannot be normal, or? 4. No matter how tight the wheel nut is on the gear side (right rear), the wheel still moves/is a little loose. I have a brand new set of wheels and tires, I hope this fixes it. Or was this a common problem? That requires a new drive shaft? 5. The left rear wheel nut is stuck fast. I am frightened to force it with the tamiya wrench any harder. It screws/unscrews in the normal direction, correct? Many thanks, I will post up lots of picts of it in the coming week and at the race. It is a BEAUTIFUL body and chassis. And the lexan is SO MUCH HARDER than any other shell I have ever seen. Thanks to Enrico and fastpietje for help to date!

The old Audi TT being the only other possiblity. And has already been done.

None. All modern cars in 1:10 just look like coloured blobs from 5 feet away. The only possible car that could look interesting enough as an RC MODEL that is in anyway modern would be a Caterham. Tamiya could take a rull race verson and include the roll cage, much like the Wild One or FAV. This would make an nice, intersesting - visually and kit to build - model. Anything else modern would just be another lexan mould, that is only really different from any distance but the headlight or tail light stickers. It's a pity, but thats what we have for modern car design.

Is there another diff option? A ball diff from another Tamiya or Thrope/CRP diff that will fit? My Wild One has exactly this issue, and I have just bought a NIP gearbox case to start tackling it. The previous owner superglued the box shut [:@]

It's worth alot more if there is a dis-assembled Sand Scorcher hidden in the box! [] [] [] But seriously, they have gone from as little as 75 euro to over 300 on ebay in the last 6 months or so. Depends mainly on how many people are looking at the same time as you. My advice is set a low limit and be patient. The ones going on ebay for 75-100 euro are all fine, it's the body people are paying the premium for. If I were to do it all again, I would by the cheapest runner, and by one of Keiths (Kamtec) repo bodies for it. They are great and bashing them is not painful. When I raced the 959 in Sept, I had people coming up to me saying it must have been an extreemly uncomfortable day for me. It wasn't - but that's only cause I have two bodies. Good luck!

And the mighty Dynastorm!! [] [] [] But yeah, while I can beat the daaaark side of the impacts, the losi's are just gone. More plastc and less screws and complex assemblies at the front end is their biggest advantage I feel. The DS has just got too many, too brittle parts all round.

COOL! Go vintage! Sounds like some work has just been rewarded! Some photos would be EVEN better..... [] []

So am I the only one who looks at the 501 and goes PWWWOOOOAAAR! [] ?? Looks like a Weapon to go out and kick some Lossi n 'yosho butt with! It's not old skool, but it definitly gets my interest in shouting "TAMIYA!" [] We need something like that! And, above it, that is the first RTR that has attracted my attention. Presumably the batteries can also be charged using a normal amp adjustable peak charger, yes?

The importer has responded to my request for spare bodies- " The Porsche Turbo RSR Type 934 (49400) is a limited production in conjunction with the celebration of 30th anniversary. They (Tamiya) had stated to us that there will be no spare parts supported, other than parts that are used in current cars. " HOOOOO! [:'(] So much for racing with the body then. [:'(] []

They are COOL [] Thanks, I got that german bit myself too. Not the measurement I need tho. I will go to my LHS and measure a M chassis on Monday. Do you have any painted shells for sale? Or would I have to send a new one to you? If it fits, I would like a BRIGHT one like the yellow one they have shown on their site. Or a fluro kermit green. Again, your chrome effect is amazing. [au]

Hi David, these bodies are really cool. Great painting skills! Can you tell me what is the distance in mm front wheel nut to rear wheel nut? I am wondering if this will fit the Can Am Lola chassis. And what paint? do you use to get that fanstastic bumper and window chrome effect? []

[Y] I will try exactly that later this week

Great, thanks guys. Will go to the auto section of Tesco tonight. [au]

No that I've calmed down somewhat from the paint strip hooha, I am giving the car a scond chance. The red plastic cage and balck body tub are dull. What can I use to make them look shiney and healthy, that will not leave these parts oily? Felt like writing "Help, Showdog!" ;-) hoping for some of your top advice here! Thanks []

Thanks. Old tamiya ones are no good, I need brand new ones as the racing is competitive Tower one looks fine but the hump is not in the standard place (should still fit though), but I should have said I need a supplier in Europe - otherwise customs duty and delays will be 2 issues. WIll put the word out locally too, to see if someone will build 3 for me. Cheers

[] [] [] LAZY?!! I lost my voice last night as a result of all these shananigans and want to burn the wretched wild one now!!! All this for the 10 and 12 year old kids of my grilfriend. I knew I should have waited for a good FOX on ebay instead. I see your point; but you normally spray and come back a few hours later right? I sprayed scrubbed and sprayed etc. A disaster! I am about to give up and by a modern RTR for the kids. And get your lover to by you a new oven every 2 years [] I'll support that from now!