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Singapore_959

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Everything posted by Singapore_959

  1. DITTO. Gave up trying to get any response from him years ago.
  2. ....DRIVE IT, like you are a 15 year old and it's your very first Tamiya! It's my most driven car of all. You will never regret using a WO.
  3. http://www.gumtree.com/ Can be extremely useful. Getting items to furnish ones place, wheels, electrical items. etc
  4. Lotus Exige S1, baby!!! Old is gold?
  5. Achem,... I think you mean a Dyna Storm shell on a 201
  6. Plus they are both pretty average performers, and it's always inspiring to see little guys fighting bigger, better guys/models.
  7. Agree. As has been said many times before, it's about shape. All the new cars and buggies look very similar and are not "pretty". Why did my mini get more appreciation with the splitty shell than the other Swifts etc on track? Why is this more soul pleasing than ANY of the modern buggies pictured in this thread so far? Because they have distinctive shape and form, which gives them soul. ;)
  8. I like it! What a cool project and idea! I use empty icecream tubs or for road cars the cardboard boxes 7.2v batteries often come in.
  9. Go to a plumbing store. Seriously.
  10. Yes. The DS Evo / DL project was inspired as a development from the 211x. Some photos from right here on TC: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...49&sid=5594 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...1&sid=22258 note the plastic tub
  11. Every car with a stock 540, same battery and a 10 race series for winner take all at the very end. Reverse grid for every other race. and the last place drivers in each race get to pick something to keep Love 'em and use em. Otherwise Mikey owner of modellzona.com gets to keep them all to complete the worlds nicest complete first 100 Tamiya collection in any Tamiya dealer shop outside of Japan (everyone should go visit if they can at least one time). Esp the Black porsche that he still asks me about every year
  12. Well there was nothing fancy or manipulated - it is a photo of the boat. Pity the comp is being limited to cars - it would be nice to be able to show off some of the more special Tamiya models, but I guess not this time. I didn't receive any email or pm btw. Not to worry though, your post is the answer. Best of luck to all entry's.
  13. COOOOOOOOOOL! Nice prize Thank you TC and RC Champ! I entered yesterday but now nothing is showing up in the entry list Can you have a look please Andy? Thanks!
  14. Zachsmom! lol, this just makes me think of American Pie Did you get any TX offers from our US members so far?
  15. Hi Taman, thanks, I am on rctech too and am watching there and on oople too.
  16. Cash or trade. Tabs cut off is ok, just must be working. Pref from an EU, Asia or Oz member (post). Thanks
  17. I think the answer is in the gearing and weight no? What are the ratios with the kit included pinion?
  18. No no, it's perfectly natural. They were just like that in the day. It will probably sell out quickly, it's a very beautiful and thoughtful re-re design.
  19. lol, no worries at all it's great we all enjoy the DS so much, and extra lol that I had to look up jive turkey on wiki as although the term is familiar I realised I didn't know exactly what it meant and wiki then reminded me of The Jeffersons tv show! LOL, blast from the past!!! Now if I could just remember the name of the show where that guy kept saying dyyynomite! that will bug me for the rest of the day now!
  20. - what do you mean by that? If you mean the idea of a cross bar bracing the back of both blocks a la the front metal brace, I did this myself but nimrod did not manufacture that as they don't do metal. Most crashes that split the blocks tend to hit at the front of the wheel/arm, hence why Tamiya included the front metal brace. I never had a need for the rear one personally, but it was interesting to trial. For Redzone, ORC has everything now so he can help. He even has some cast alloy ones from me:-P but those were not as strong as the plastic imo. Their design and metal choice was very extreme lightweight. Still, I never broke them on my test car. The ultimate solution ofcourse is metal ones or a complete redesign using touring car style braces across the front and rear instead of left and right mounts. I wanted to do this but ran out of time and energy and at that point in time I had no source for machining in metal. The casting that Nimrod did for the few we trialed was a favour from a uni metals lab. I now know of RW racing in the UK who could do it to the level I would want. If someone is super keen I could get the D block CAD drawings from Nimrod to give to RW or if someone else has a source. I am no longer local to Nimrod (hence there lack of their motivation) but I would be willing to push the above if requested. Someone like RW would likely require a minimum run though, which someone would have to provide payment for. They're great cars and I am always a little mystified when the D parts break. It only ever happened to me in very cold winter racing. The unscrewing was the main issue. I am glad to hear that they are still being used and enjoyed!
  21. Group Hug for Henk and Kelvin. No kicking under the table please! Now back to the bull Edited for poor spelling of names, lol!
  22. Zach looks pretty chuffed! Cool. No pictures of mum eh? lol What you have there is one battery pack which needs to be replaced. It's been split into 2 with a connector wire to balance the truck more. THis is called a 'saddle pack' and any decent hobby shop will be able to supply you with one. Suggest you ask for a 4000mah (or higher) 7.2v saddle pack with a longer than normal connector cable. You have an rx, its the little back box with the little yellow tab sticking out of it. That is good news. So all you really need is a TX, charger and new batteries. It is a 75band rx which means you need a 75band tx - this is the normal standard in the US. If it was a 27 which is common out of the US I would be happy to send you one myself. I am sure one of the US members here would help out (HINT dudes!) with a TX handset. I would remove the 4 AA batteries pronto even if you are not going to use it. They have a habit of leaking badly when they get old and that will damage the battery holder and other plastics. As has been said it looks very good and should run fine. If this is too much than having now seen it, there may be US based members here who would offer a swap for a complete running car/truck set against that so they can restore it (yes we can be picky fanatics ).
  23. Where's my trusty Dyna Storm..... :D Good old vintage quality product, none of this new funky not-made-in-Japan rubbish
  24. I am sure we would all like to see a photo if you would sounds like you all you are missing is the transmitter (tx), charger and possibly receiver (rx). the big batteries are 7.2v and one of them goes into the truck to run it at a time. the smaller AA batteries would be for the transmitter. You can buy transmitter, receiver and servos (2, but they are probably installed already if the wheels are firm to turn) cheaply these days, I would think from about 40usd for a crystal based set. Again, some members would probably be able send you a set cheaply by posting up here in the sale/wanted section. A slow, safe overnight changer is easily under 20usd, a auto (peak) fast charger can be had for 30 and upwards. If is too much for you/mini Zach then you could sell it here for considerably more and buy him something else. But rc is a great hobby to get introduced to young!
  25. To keep owners informed, cross post from oOple: Below is a quote from Randy Caster (TRF driver from the USA) found in RCTech's forum: "Tamiya has recognized an issue with the idler gear material, and are already working on a more durable material. Some people are having issues, some aren't, I think it has a lot to do with how much motor you are using, and making sure your diff/slipper are set correctly. For anyone building, or rebuilding their 201 transmission, before installing the idler gear, boil it in water a couple times. This will help to soften the material and make it less brittle, and should hopefully solve the issue altogether until the new parts are available from Tamiya. If you do happen to strip an idler gear, I would recommend replacing the diff gear and idler gear. This is basically just to be sure that none of the teeth on the diff gear are chipped or cracked and would cause another failure." And a run of one piece machined layshaft, gear, and idler gear is being done by RW racing also.
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