Singapore_959

GTTod - so nimrod did get in contact with you; I spoke with them on Saturday and they said they had replied to your email. Glad to hear it. I will have word with them about the prices quoted above. I am not convinced they are correct, when I was still in europe and visiting them weekly part of the goal was to provide replacement and upgraded parts at reasonable prices, some of the above looks wrong to me. I will have a chat with them. Please bear in mind however that I am not part of nimrod and my discussions can only serve as suggestions to them. Next point is a bit difficult, and I am sure some people will want to disagree, but in the interests of the community I am going to post this up here. I already mentioned this once in the kyosho section and got shot at there, but it happened to me and it was alot of money wasted. I would not want the same thing to happen to another person. Before finding nimrod I did exactly what others have done or wanted to do. I found the original source of the 211 parts. Fibrelyte had the plans and had been selling the parts to order. I was excited and despite the prices I knew I wanted everything. Like others I wanted to make my DS the best it could be. I even specified a special order gearbox plate out of carbon with my own modifications to fit the long screws in the other way with countersunk holes pre made into the plate. The parts duely arrived and I was SO thrilled and happy. The looked lovely and the packing was nice and I kept them out for weeks looking at them. I didn't want to build up my ultimate DS untill I had everything together, then I envisaged a great weekend sitting down and building it. I did notice however that the custom gearbox plate I ordered was wrong. The countersunks were in the wrong place. I contacted fibrelyte and they were very good about it and made another one and let me keep the faulty one. Many months later I finally got around to fitting up the parts and then I found that the holes on the top deck and the bottom deck did not line up true. I was puzzled and went back on TC and had a look at all the showrooms with DS fibrelyte chassis and noticed comments that some filing and fiddling was needed to get the parts to fit perfectly. Well, I was disappointed. I did not want to have to ovalise screw holes to get parts to fit. However since it was now about a year later I also didn't feel it was fair to contact fibrelyte and ask for another change of parts or refund after I had the prior problems with the gearbox plate. To me the parts were not useable as ovalising screwholes and filing edges to get parts to fit was not part of the experience I wanted. Would I buy them again, no. But I may have been unlucky and a machinist had a poor day. Subsquently I found r-design / nimrod and showed them the parts and explained what I wanted. The first thing they did was over lay the parts on original parts and show me the differences. None of the parts matched up holes perfectly with the original Tamiya parts. Now why didn't I think of doing that when I first received the parts, even just for fun? It would have given me and fibrelyte immediate opportunity to rectify the problem. I then learnt that there are difference levels of accuracy tolerances in engineering. This was all new to me and fascinating. It's cool stuff. So, I am rambling a bit but I am giving all the information so as not to get shot for saying the parts I got were not fit for use as expected. If I had contacted fibrelyte they may have been good about it and swapped them but being a year later I didn't feel I was in position to suddenly appear and complain again, so I didn't. I do think the above nimrod prices for the lower and upper deck - IF we are talking about the flat piece of carbon - are too high. If it is the composite space base deck then that's a different matter. I will talk to nimrod to have that clarified. My experience of fibrelyte may be unique but I wouldn't want some else to spend on it if the out come may be same. The flat carbon top and bottom decks I have used from nimrod have lined up and were cut on a laser aligned machine. Their plastic composit parts are different and I have always run feedback on those with them to make sure they know if something is out. GTodd - your photos look great and it's cool to someone enjoying their dyna so much! Shock towers would not be first on my list of upgrades. The chassis would (flat carbon evo is the best value for money upgrade in my mind). Followed by the trf 501x buggy dampers and decent tires. HTH

That is just a super photo. PM already replied to GTodd, and I emailed nimrod for you also.

There are different types of bearings available, but unless you are using either super rubbish batteries or timing your car it's unlikely you will notice a difference between expensive and cheap bearings. So just dive in and get a set for your car that you feel is fair priced. There are plenty of online stores that sell complete sets for cars, so that you get everything you need in one go. It's simply a matter of taking out the (usually) white plastic bushings or bronze bushings that are in your car, and replacing them with bearings of identical size. You may need a thin flat screw driver to prise out the bushings, and when you put in your new bearings put them in flat and push down with your finger to get it in. It may tilt to the left or right, then simply remove and push in flat again. Alot of people like to remove the lubricant that is in the bearings and replace it with a thinner lubricant - oil - in the belief that the factory greases are thick and will slow down the bearing. So some people buy a can of real car brake disk cleaner (an aerosol spray) and spray this on the new bearings. Place the bearing(s) on a screwdriver and spin with your finger while spraying the brake disk cleaner and you will see the bearings begin to spin faster as the grease is removed. Brake cleaner is a bit strong on fingers so try to wash your hands after doing this and certainly mind your eyes. After its a good idea to drip some thin metal oil into the bearings before putting them into your car. You dont have to, but it will prolong the life of your bearings if you do. There are sealed and unsealed bearings, which means there is a cover usu coloured plastic over the sides of the bearing to help keep out dirt. If you are running outdoors these can be a better idea. Its a basic improvement on your car and worth doing as it makes it run faster and longer.

Gosh, that looks GREAT!!! I haven't seen my car for so long I forgot how good the car can look. Seriously why do you want to paint that shell again, the white looks SO nice especially coupled with your white springs. (What are they from, btw?) I think that looks way better than any of the car shells / paint combo's I have had. I like it! Rear dishes look good. Mine look **** as they are all marked and blackened from racing, I must get them cleaned a bit to look nice again. Funny never tried, I wonder what cleans marks of the wheels? The TR knuckles make for faster steering, I enjoyed using them but I had to play with the steering speed and expo on the TX to get totally comfortable. Good to see!!!! White for the wing?

Yes, the american wheels don't use metric. Been where you are before! The only way is the change the hub and kingpin, neither of which is straight forward. Enlarging the hole for the bearing accurately was beyond my imagination, I will be interested how you solve it. Would make alot of things easier if it can be done accurately easily. This is why I went to the schumacher fronts on DT02 wheels.

Sorry I have no photos to hand, but before I changed my chassis I did the same thing as ORB suggests - cutting. I cut out a large square from the front of the battery box to let the wires out and make it easy to slide big packs in. Also you do not need the huge metal plate on the end of the batterybox / in front of and under the shock tower. It was only designed and put there to hold the CPR unit if you were using it. Remove it, save weight, and make it easier to slide in larger battery packs. The aftermarket chassis like nimrod and the old TRF decks have no problem fitting larger packs. Lipos are great. I tried 4500 NIMH packs a couple of times but they were just too heavy to be usefull. I usu use 3300 or 3900 packs when using NIMH. Lipo no such issues. Infact have to use weights sometimes.

If you just want to start with the shocks, I have a full set used for sale. Almost as new. PM me if anyone wants. -sorry for the thread diversion!-

ENJOY! Great to see. It's alot of fun to build! As ORB says, threadloc is your friend on the nuts holding the front and rear D parts down. Best tip is to use longer screws on the rear D parts and put a second normal nyloc bolt ontop of the existing bolt. Again with threadloc. Enjoy it!

Where's terry.sc? !

Yes, I know thanks, but I cannot get the brush on PC. Only the spray and it is so much thinner. :-(

Ps. I can only get the paints above. The PS bottle paints are not available here the would otherwise be the ones to use.

Hi Alistair, Got your paints, 2 cans each, reserved at the shop for you. You're lucky, they have lots of all the paints but only 2 of each TS 8 & 16. So the last ones are for you if you want them. 21.84GBP for the four. I will find out postage tomorrow and PM it to you so you can say yeay or nay. On a side note, what is the best white paint to use on rubber tires - TS, PS or the X brush type?

There are alot of threads on this. Try the forum search ;-)

Name and shame. It may even speed up the process as if the buyer is known and other complaints surface you could take it back to paypal... Really really crappy to hear :-(

Cool, thanks for the info guys. What do you mean about 'special suspension arms' for the M chassis? Sort of defeats the purpose of a cheap but good hop up if one has to then buy difference arms then too.

Alistair, give me a shout which TS paints you are after. A shop near me still has what looks to be the whole range of them in stock. I'd be happy to organise it for you if they've got the ones you need.

Maybe. I think I may have JUST realised what these are for - the basic kits and minis perhaps? I notice now that these kits have screw in shafts to hold arms on, so these SS shafts must be to replace those for less friction? Not sure. Anyone know?

For a number of Tamiya's there are hop up part sets of stainless steel pins/rods/shafts that attach the wheel/suspension arms to chassis. What is the benefit? And what are the standard ones made of? They all look stainless steel to me.

I think I need a drink before I understand Can't read anything into that as I am not sure what exactly it means. But if you think it's about job hunting due to the company name then it's misunderstood. The owner & CEO is a extremely successful person and has loads of energy and interest in new ideas - hence he can be a very useful contact for people with ideas. Anyway back to my banana's

What do you mean? ! Dog Milk makes perfect sense! :(

If you are of a senior level and fancy networking with similar, I have an invite to meet with the owner of the below and his contacts at the end of the month at the Capitol club. The CEO is friend of mine and the contact circle is excellent. If I was in Europe I would be going but I'm not. If it can help someone out, please let me know and I can arrange an invite for you. It's an informal meet and could build new bridges for you. http://www.denovoresources.com/ Hope that may be of help to someone.

Exactly as 94 says! :-) Eventually they all leak however If you haven't built em, you may want to sell them new and use the money (should be good) towards the 501 dampers. Not to put you off; they do work well indeed, they just require rebuilding more often than you may expect. They look goooood too!

Cool! Well done. I like your uberlightweight gearbox too!

I think I got TRF a while ago So, so far no one really knows - or is the VG actually confirmed Paul (I do like the logic in it ) ? Guessing really shouldn't be part of release, Tamiya should put a bit of info on their websites at least. S

It's always fun to see the new products as they are released. Can anyone explain what: HL damper cylinders are what the VG initials of the new greases stands for?