Singapore_959

Already talked to Keith about this []

PHOTO ! Can help better with at photo! [] Sounds like some series ARRRRRRGH! going into this [] []

Just seen your show room picts. I am very sorry to read the story and see the picts. [:S] If you have no luck in getting a new front lower arm let me know. The damage to the shell is normal - above the arch and to the front spoiler. The chassis protectors rear and front are often available on ebay and are not that expensive. Lossi mini shocks can be made to fit (and are much better) with some top homemade brackets at the front. The rear are easy to fit on. The paint speckled gear box, while painful to look at, is probably easy to paint strip. On the bright side, you will learn how to assemble it and see what's inside when you come to strip and clean it. The servo arm is possibly going to be the hardest part to source. While I don't have one spare, I may know someone who does. Again, if you can't find one in time / closer to you than I am, contact me. The body is the most important bit, and that's what the resale value is long term. Post up the rebuild story as you go! [au] []

I think thats what it is! Works fine on mine anyway. Making ther tubs longer is good thing also. Post some picts of your car up!

FANTASTIC SKILLS !!! Well done mate. AWESOME! We should have a TC stand at the next ToyExpo and have that as the stand background! FAB! [Y]

hahaha, I like that - '80s style! I am going to try that just for laugh (After the race!) [] THANKS. That is exactly the info I love - specific and clear [] Now I know exactly what type of soldering iron and bar material I need. Ditto the connectors. Coool. Last night deep in deep mechanical engineering-design thought (imaginary skill of mine [] [] ) , I was thinking about alternative rear ends for the lola - the diff movement really irritates - that are still period original and Tamiya. Detailed viewing of possibilities left me with the following: Did you know the Datsun 280 didn't come with a diff or the same motor mount? I didn't. The manual states in the back the photo item with the RED dot. I WANT THAT HOP UP PACK! Look at it, it is not just the black motor (which is want the Datsun box art text suggests) but it comes with a motor mount to fit the Lola chassis. [] [] [] [] And I only want to motor mount, not the motor. So if you have got it, or know of it please contact me. It makes mounting a modern motor possible! Yippee! The only proplem will be mounting the Can Am wing, but a solution can be found. The other cars mounts also look like they will fit, so if you have one for spares I am also interested. The other option that came to mind was fitting a complete 956 rear end one. It is still 1:12, and still Tamiya RM. A fellow Lola - 956 owner is checking it fits for me. What do you all think? [au] [au] []

[] [:$] [8-|] And the word was good. ! Thanks Terry.sc. That's important learning. So it is set up for rocket take off at present [] Friday night should be interesting! Trip to Vienna today was futile. The biggest shop in town was 'too busy' to make up the packs for me, despite having a workshop and all the bits. Since the sale would have been over 100euro and none of the other customers (about 8 total) were buying more than paints or cheap parts I cannot understand their attitude about doing it. So I am taking my cash (and risk) to a local store on Monday and try again. Otherwise it will be buying solder equipment and trial and error!

Thanks Terry.sc. I will do both. So is it correct the lower the pinion the higher the top speed (ie. for longer tracks), or is it the reverse? Or something totally different? I thought of asking the top guys too. Just worried about taking up too much of their time, as the last 2 race days were overly busy for everyone (too many participants and heats) but I will ask for a lesson at the shop and the track! Thanks again. Your club link site is inspiring! []

hehe, you might be right Willy. I am going to Austria tomorrow to sus them out. Called the 3 main r/c shops here and got the same response - Oh, most racers do it themselves or don't at all. And two of these shops are the importers/agents for Orion and Peak!! Unbelievable. Shorties, and at least one new hump. Thinking 3700 or poss 3300. I am so unimpressed with the 4200 I got last month. It is SO heavy, and the performance was totally unremarkable. LRP true matched top blah blah big mama rubbish. Put me off them totally. One of the 3 local shops has offered to 'have a look' at doing it on Monday. But ain't taking chances, with the race being next Sat. Hence the trip tomo morning. Should be fun to see the biggest r/c shop in Vienna tho. I am helping set up the track on Friday night, after which I will have the chance to drive the car for the first time!! [] And get some practice in of the track [] It is a different layout everytime. Hoping for more long corners or straights this time. The first race was a great fast track, the last one was just short corners and no straight at all. Bleaah! Was not fun like the first race. Keep you informed! Will test mount the electronics on Sunday. [au] [au] [] The Dyna Storm is sitting happy, no work to do other than mount the new slightly faster Orion motor before the race.

" .... your Can Am can win the big one for you" [] ! hahaha, I love that! My kids asked if it was a parody clip that someone had recently made!

You are not the only one! [] I need want one for my WO too! Soooo......... (listening) !

Yup, the Avante hubs fit and let you use most other wheels. A search on the forum should bring up some one doing repro decals. The member making 1.10 scale 959 bodies also makes internal sticking transfers which sound very cool.

Thanks John! The feedback is motivating [] []

So do people still want me to continue posting up my experiences? Pls do let me know. I am hoping the posts are informative and useful. [] And any answers on the questions above are gratefully received! Thanks []

Theraceport has funny hours opening hours! Only from 2 - 6pm. But that's still enough, Saturday would have been good tho! Öffnungszeiten: Montag - Freitag 14 - 18 Uhr I see IB cells... []

Super, thank you Pee-Wee. I will contact raceport first thing Friday morning. I will learn how to solder packs myself, but this is not the time. I don't have any tools yet except the Tamiya wrench, 1 screw driver and my kitchen sissors! Cheers! Raceport here we come []

[au] Grüss Gött! [] Do you know of a shop in Vienna or Nesiedel area that can sell and solder up new 7.2v packs for me, into a Hump shape? I need at least 2 packs, GP or IB cells 3300 or higher, and I can get them Fri, Sat, Monday or (last resort) next friday. See my Can Am thread for details. THANKS! [] [au]

Thanks to Terry.sc, Willy Chang, FastPietje, and Mike and 'Manfred' *TC name* at Modelzona this is where we are 3 days later: Battery - Went to the LHS to order 2 humpys to be made from new cells. "oooh, phwwww.... " was the reaction. Not good. Seems the shops here don't do it. There are only 3 significant r/c hobby shops in Budapest, and the hard core racers do their batteries via Austrian shops or self solder packs at home. 'My' shop is ther series sponsor and the importer for orion, but they don't make cell packs themselves. So scratch.But Mikey the owner came up with the great solution you see in the photo. Genuine TAMIYA 7.2v cell that is only 10.8cm versus the 13.2cm for normal stickpacks. Great! It is a special one off pack made for the Tyrrell 6 wheeler re release model. So I have been lent that for the race. He didn't have any more to sell me, but said that Mega Model the Tamiya dealer in Vienna has a whole lot. So I have to take a drive there sometime before the race. I will also see if they can make me up a modern 3700mh humpy which would be the ideal outcome. The Tyrrell cell is only 1700mh which disappointing, but at this point I am just happy to have a cell that fits. [*]The next mod is I will be using glass tape through the chassis floor holes to hold in the battery when racing; I have removed the plastic battery holder completely from the chassis. So combined with the smaller battery and removed battery holder, the car is getting even lighter. [] The glass tape is cool stuff, I have seen it used by many other racers, but it cannot be bought in typical building material stores. I have to go to an electrical specialist shop it seems. Mike has lent me the role you see in the photo. [*] The spare complete gear set I got on ebay has arrived. The gears and pinions are matched sets, and are the only ones that work with the car. It is a great looking vintage blister pack, and I like just looking at it! I don't know which set to use with the Dynatech 01R motor. It will depend on the track layout I suppose (terry.sc - advice pls! [] ) But I have another concern about gearing - overheating the esc or motor. As the car is 1/12 scale the wheels are SMALL. Do I have to be weary of something (I am practically mathematically dyslexic so understanding gearing numbers is tough BUT I WANT TO LEARN! [ip] ) overheating? Dyna is 19 turn, 25,000rpm; gears are:40 spur and 15 pinion (pair) 39 spur and 16 pinion (pair) 38 spur and 17 pinion (pair) 37 spur and 18 pinion (pair) and current wheel diameter is 5.3cm. but I would like to sand them down to 5cm or 4.8cm. The esc is an LRP with a 14turn motor limit. So do I have anything to do / note / worry about? And what do the pinion/spur combos mean - am I right in thinking the smaller the pinion on the motor the faster the top speed but slower acceleration, and vice versa? The rear wing. The Can Am Lola kit comes with a bi-folding wing, basically an underneath strenghtening and connecting to the wing stay part, and a top part wich is has the full shape and height. Unfortunetly my wing was cut in half on assembly more than 23 years ago and the important top half is missing. It seems this is a common problem - Pieter in Holland has the same part which he kindly offered me. But it is too shallow to be effective. Solution - Tamiya 'Hop Up' option OP-604 from 2003, number 53604, "Racing Wing Set" is VERY VERY close to the original Cam An one [] [] [] and infact I can cut it out so it is even longer/taller at the rear lip for more adjustability! COOOOL! Differential and right wheel hub mobility / looseness. Manfred at the shop had an excellent quality 7mm hex long screw driver and I managed to finally get the rear left wheel off !success! haha, small mercies [] , and from there got the diff out and opened it up.The diff looks perfect, and the Big OPEN (never seen these before) bearings seem perfect too. So the 1or 2mm of movement the hub makes in/out off the diff assembly that I am unhappy about seems to be normal. HOW CAN THIS BE?! I mean when the wheel is screwed on to the hub, the result is the wheel and tire can be rocked side to side by about 3/4mm by the outside edge! - as the wheel is 4.5 wide. HRRRR! I just cannot believe this is intended. I have circled below in red the hub part that moves, and the diff case it sits in. The rear wheel screws into the 'Differential side gear', what I am calling the hub. I had expected the big 15mm bearing to have collapsed or campferred at the edges, but no it all seems new and to factory design. I mean if this was a group c chassis you can hold both rear wheels and they are rock solid against the drive shaft/diff. No play what so ever. I don't have an another cCan Am car to compare it to. Any other owners there like to 'give theirs a feel' ? [] So that's it for today (wed) on progress. I am excited about the loaned battery size, weight, and removing the holder to use the tape instead. Dissappointed that the best shop in town, and Orion dealer, couldn't make me up a pack. But I will try and get this in vienna. Racing with any cell below 3300mh sees wimpy to me!! I also go a bit of history from Enrico on the car. It was a one owner car until I bought it! He had it from new, and hardly ever used it due to off road (yeah!) being more the thing back then. He got it from a hobby shop in the late eighties that was getting rid of alot of old stuff that they couldn't sell. (Sure there wasn't a Sand Scorrcher lurking in there somewhere? haha!) So this accounts for the virtually new condition of the model. Tomorrow I will prep the wing and contact the store in Vienna to make sure they have a couple of the Tyrrell batteries, or better still build me two humpys. If you have advice on the diff, motor, gears, or anything else please do POST UP!!! [] [] []

Chris, I think you are doing a top job. Time to freeze this thread so everyoine will move on! [] [au]

The yellow (rc10?) car is wild! non-stop oversteer! hahaha, fantastic to watch. I am enjoying indoor carpet racing this year, but off road really is so much more fun! [] Thanks for posting the vid [au] [sorry about the double posts]

The yellow (rc10?)

Hi Mike, nice car. Perfect for the beach and rain infact due to the sealed chassis protecting the electrics. Run it! Technigold was the correct period hop up motor. I think a fibreglass cleaning pen (whatever that is!) has been suggested in the past; check out www.tamiya101.com for more info on that - cleaning the motor case.

Terry, your home made pan car is Fantastic! You are definitely the man to talk to about carpet! My previous racing was all asphalt and off road. I have jsut begun carpet this year. 2 full race days so far. 6 races per day, with only 2 or 3 qualifiying/practice rounds allowed! Yup, I will post what happens/how I get that wheel off tomorrow or Thurs latest. [:S] Thanks for your advice above. What would it be like if I ran it without diff on carpet? I came with a sold spool to replace the big diff. I had previously understood that no diff is faster in some situs (but which?) but is makes the car a poor at turning in and then oversteery. Can you help explain what it would do and in what track types this would be desirable? I am thinking of sanding the tries down to drop the car lower. Good idea? and should I use wet or dry fine sandpaper (or coarse?) Everyone else here is running F1 chassis or (fewer) the tamiya group c. It's really great to see your pan car design. PS. Can acetone be used to clean old d.s.tape from my glassfibre chassis or is something else recommended? [] []

oh, [] back at you!

Well you can manually up the amp rate on the charger and the charging will finish earlier, but is will give NO extra juice or punch to the cell and it WILL reduce the life of cell. This has been proven in both the manufacturer and Orions' own experiences over the past 16 months. As the cells are not cheap why would you thus do this? The Orion R&D guy goes under the name MR BLACK on rctech forum, and is very helpful and answers direct questions if you need more.