necronomicon
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Posts posted by necronomicon
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Tried uploading a movie in .wmv format like all my previous ones, but it wont show the uploaded video, just get error message, looks like several other members previous efforts do this as well.
Is there a known problem with the movie hosting? Tried emailing the contact us email address but no reply.
cheers
Neil
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hi mate,
In my opinion, sand is one of the worst tracks to run on, high wear on components and gets everywhere as already mentioned. Just dont go anywhere near sand with a belt driven, open drivetrain car!. Agree with advice already given about cleaning with large paint brush etc.
Had a grasshopper on the sand at newquay,UK, (See video in my member section) last year, and then stored for 6 months- motor was almost eaten away with corrosion from salt water/sand blasting!- learned my leason to thoroughly clean after use near sea!!!
Cheers
NEil
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Welcome to the club mate, you will find loads on here of interest!
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Thanks for tips guys, will double check, you never know!
Took this one out for a bash today and it runs fine (Black Ferrari Enzo shell), see the videos for more......(Lets bash!)
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Purely for the budget basher, i dont think you can beat the Mtronic eco20 types (as low as 15), for bang for buck as a cheap upgrade from Tamiya stock TEU ESC. Cant comment on mid/ high end ESCs.
Neil
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Granted, you get what you pay for and the T-01 is a budget chassis!
Upgraded to the alu propshaft, but always been aware that there is a lot of lateral 'play' in the shaft, leading to vibration and presume loss of power at higher revs, anyone any fixes or view on this please?- when i move the chassis forward, under 'arm' power, you can see the prop moving left to right and not just rotating perfectly about a single axis.
Cheers
Necro.
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I would go for bright yellow or orange!!!!
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Some very good advice there. For most of us the grasshopper has its own quirks and limitations and without major alterations or a good mechanical knowledge, we just accept it for what it is. If you want a better handling 2WD buggy there are lots of more modern alternatives!
Just thought I'd throw in that alternative view, - i love my hopper as it is!
Neil
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In general, i am avoiding the Hitec range of TX and RXs, as i have also had quite a few probs in the past.. I simply think they are too cheap and poorly built..
The same goes for Bluebird servos.. Yakk..
In my "serious" models, i use KoPropo, Futaba and LRP recievers, and for the time being, only 2 Futaba 40 FM transmitters. (Both Megatechs)
In the "less serious" models, i mainly use Acoms 27 AM and a few other makes of recievers..
Cheers
Thanks for that, its not just me then. The radio wasnt that cheap (more than the standard Acoms stuff), oh well, live and learn.
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Off road tyres wear real quickly on tarmac and they're not cheap!.
Slow down on the corners, use the hopper off- road, gravel or dusty tracks and bear in mind the handling is pretty unpredictable!
Neil
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Used mine in stock form for this type of use, the oil shocks are a must, get the ride height as high as you can. One problem is the high wear on the motor sticking out the side of the chassis (See my showroom for a DIY remedy for this problem in the tutorials section), it gets shot-blasted by gravel. Another problem is gravel jamming the steering, but havn't found a solution for that one yet. Otherwise its quite a capable, fun rally platform. The aftermarket foam front bumper is a good idea if its gonna take a lot of front hits, the stock hard plastic one doesnt protect the wheels and transmits all the impact energy into the chassis. Good rally block or pinspike tyres are also a must.
hope that helped, see my vids for some TL-01 rally action, with a subaru shell.
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I used to have a 2WD TL-01 which I ran for a while before converting to 4WD. I would also recommend sealing the little hole where the propshaft would have gone to avoid getting dirt into the gearbox. Handling with only 2WD is 'interesting' to say the least, as the weight distribution is not quite right, lots of wheelspin and the back end going out. Never had any problems with massive wear on the rear gears, but if you are upgrading the motor this could be a problem
hope that helps
Neil
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We run a TL-01 with the biggest pinion and speed tuned gears too with a 25T GT tuned and it runs brillliant on a TEU 101, very fast. Never had thermal cutoff. Maybe the 25T is the way to go with these, it seems faster than a similar geared sport tuned 23T.
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A few months down the line and thinking of selling my TA-05. As I dont drive indoors/ carpet, its just too high maintenance. On road/ tarmac Every couple of minutes the car jams its gears with stones. Some of the suspension joints seem to keep unscrewing themselves as well. Compared to the easy to run TA-01/ TT-01 and tL-01 its just not the car for me. Runs beautifully when it does go, brilliant handling, but the constant problems when running in car parks is getting me down!- been through set of gears, and nearly shredded the belts too.
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Thanks Willy, that sounds like good advice, cheers!
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Hi all
Just had a mates TB-02 break down (motor ceased), and when i took it all apart the spur gear housing was full of **** and grit. The motor had a stone chipping jamming it up. Anyway the pinion gear and spur gear are pretty messed up and worn. On fixing and reassembly I notice that although the spur gear casing has a ball bearing seal at the front (where the propshaft runs through), at the back of this casing the propshaft exits through an unsealed hole about a 1mm bigger all the way around than the propshaft, meaning the gear casing is unsealed, hence all the sand and grit inside and wear to internal pinion and spur gear. Can anyone help with this problem, or is this chassis indoor/ perfect clean road use only????
thanks in advance
Neil
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nobody ??
the upgrades it contains are things a lot of people do to their TT-01s, but the price has to be right. In the UK this set sells at about 40, but I got the same parts (OK, some different manufacturers) for 25, mostly ebay.
Typical prices in UK are:
Generic Bearings set for tt-01 5-8
Tamiya Oil shock cylinders (you use you own silver springs) 10
Tamiya Speed tuned spur set 5
Tamiya 24/25T pinion 5
hope that helped, email me if you want the shops that sell at these prices if in UK.
cheers
Neil
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Here's a colour test sample of one I printed last week on inkjet. The vinyl is not as flexible as the original kit vinyl, however, the adhesive is good - it does the job. Quality of print is good as compared to some of my real vinyl printing.
As for the aerosol acrylic sealer, I'v never had an issue with it. Just apply it to the completed print and allow it to dry.
Cut and apply the decals. poof! your done.
I reapply the sealer as needed, if needed. It's not much different to maintaining the chassis and drivetrain.
As for the issue of not being fuelproof....I only run electric...
*waterslide decals are great for static models but IMO dont bother for runners which will get wet/ hit/ crash as they WILL come off.
*Paper based stickers, even when 'sealed' with acrylic varnish on the outside are fine untill they get really wet, then they bleed clour/ come off.
*Vinyl decals are the best, try to get spares/ off cuts/ save odd stickers from all your kits.
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Hi Guys
I`ve recently aquired a Tamiya Escort Cosworth in michelin pilot colours,
I really want to strip it down and reassemble it before use,
I`ve found the manual in the reference section of this site but am unsure if you can print a copy?
Many thanks
Adrian
You can also download full manuals from the tamiya websites, of course you just need a manual for a car with the same chassis type as yours, not neccessarily same body. Ebay sellers often sell manuals for a couple of quid, you just need to know the chassis type.
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it may be just me but that really angers me! your going to get people buying these and not respecting them, okay people here bash there cars to breaking point but when they break they fix them, although on the other hand! I predict that in a month or two there will be an uprise of cheap tamiyas at boot sales as people will break them and not be able to fix them
Hopefully when the overpriced argos cars dont sell, they will be in the next sale at silly low prices, keep eyes open! (They have done this before!)
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the body mount holes might be different also.
as said, most shells will fit as the wheelbase is 257mm, like a lot of other tamiya touring chassis. What I found with mine is that you do have to be a bit more careful with shell choice as the TA-01 shock towers are quite high up and if you get 'low' sportcar shells you cannot get them to sit low enough, even using the lowest hole on the body mounts. you should be OK with 'Saloon' type shells like Impreza, Evo's etc.
Hope that helped
Neil
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Hi Guys,
Can anyone suggest online stores (in the UK) that stock standard and laydown brushes for tamiya motors (type s and type RZ respectively)?
Will be for bashing use only, and the only ones i can find are the official tamiya ones and they cost about 6 -8 inc. postage per set which is a bit steep for me!- can i use other make brushes OK?
thanks for any interest/ replies
neil
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Hi Guys, having problems with my Hitec Aggressor 3 channel 40 mhz FM radio set (pistol grip type). I was expecting better range/ less interference ets than my acoms 27Mhz sets, but no. Poor range (around 30 metres, maybe less) and interference aplenty. Motor is well surpressed, but the aerial wire does pass close to the motor and receiver before it exits the model.
Anyone had experience of this radio system at all, or with 40Mhz FM sets in general?
thanks
Neil
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Hey thanks for that guys, very useful (and quick ) info.
your going to get people buying these and not respecting them, okay people here bash there cars to breaking point but when they break they fix them, although on the other hand! I predict that in a month or two there will be an uprise of cheap tamiyas at boot sales as people will break them and not be able to fix them 
Movies Wont Upload
in Tamiyaclub Rules and Site Usage
Posted
Thanks guys, successfully uploaded a video.
Regards
Neil