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About qatmix

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  • Birthday 07/14/1972

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    RC Racing

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  1. Yes. I run titanium screws instead of the kit steel. It does add weight but roll centre is a big deal when tuning the way a car responds in the corner. The towers give you some options but having the ability to move them up 0.5mm does help when fine tuning the way it responds. There are far more wasteful hop ups than these.
  2. Nope, sorry they are not compatible. The speed tuned gear set is cheap and way more useable in the long run anyway.
  3. Nope, that would be way to big. These are close to 1/24 in scale.
  4. As light as possible is best for a responsive car. As a guide for BRCA race events in the 1/10 class the minimum weight for the car (inc electrics body etc) is 1320g. I have to add 55g weight to make my car legal. The XV01 is not going to be that light, especially with a scale body (race bodies are about 80-90g, scale bodies are usually 150g or more). The XV01 is a good handling car. Just keep it free of unnecessary aluminium parts as the plastics will be lighter. The big advantage will be to swap out some of the steel parts for aluminium ones. Such as diff out drives etc. Although in reality just get a good set of tyres and pump in the laps.
  5. It’s for the std TRF shocks, not for rally. The kit comes with low profile shocks and on more bumpy tarmac tracks it helps to have the option to have a little more travel. The brass mounts are for extra weight and chassis balance.
  6. The red chassis along with clear chassis parts will be available as a hop up
  7. I had to hold onto this for a few days. Here is the CC-02 info https://www.thercracer.com/2019/08/exclusive-tamiya-cc-02-4x4-scale.html
  8. Yep as above, just buy new ones, they are cheap. Use a proper wrench like the tamiya aluminium one. I thread the ball connectors before mounting the turnbuckles. I’ve got lots of Tamiya cars with alloy turnbuckles that are well used and the turnbuckles are still prefect other than a few scratches.
  9. If starting out get the M410 as mentioned above it’s a very neutral shell. The ZooRacing preopard is similar but the 410 is very neutral and good to start out. The popular body is the DBX, it is aggressive but still quite stable. I would suggest trying that once you feel that you need more steering and response etc.
  10. Tamiya USA has the TRF419XR for $395 new atm. Super cheap for a top end touring car
  11. Model sport simply sold out of their stock really quickly. It’s flyong of the shelves. When I got hold of the prototype I can see why, it’s superb! I have one waiting at home to be built https://www.thercracer.com/2019/07/57409-tamiya-rc-lunch-box-mini-hands-on.html?m=0
  12. Wow, 1xD for RF is very narrow. I definitely would suggest you do not go more than 3 deg rear toe, it will make the rear end very locked and cause a lot of drag on the straights. 1Xa RF and 1D RR is 3 deg and is very stable and a good starting point.
  13. As above the 46mm shafts are compatible with the TA06 arms / hubs etc. However, there is another factor, you need to consider the suspension block settings. If you make the suspension blocks more narrow then the 46mm universals might bind suspension movement. The sock kit is FF-A and FR-A and so is the R so assuming you have not gone much more narrow such as XB you should be fine. I did did a guide about Tamiya suspension settings and blocks here https://www.thercracer.com/2017/01/tamiya-suspension-mount-ultimate.html?m=0
  14. Both are very good. The steering setup on the 07 is better than the 05 unless you buy the hop ups. It’s also easier to swap the motor position on the 07. Belts are just as durable as shafts (more so from a wear point of view). A race track outside or indoors is fine with belts. Both are great though, so it really is down to your preference. They are as fast as each other and both have good hop-up options.
  15. Yep a TT02-S is much better than a hopped up TT01E. The main TT02 is not much of a big jump, but it is a more versatile chassis (You can change it to rally by flipping the hubs etc).
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