qatmix

RCbearings.co.uk are brilliant. I use them in all my cars. I also use their ceramic bearings in my race cars.

T2 shop is selling brand new TRF419XR kits for £270 if you want a bargain Tamiya racer

I actually found the Konghead runs great even with the kit Pogo’s as it’s a heavy little truck. Servo wise the steering is quite light and free so pretty much any are fine. The £20 hobbyking ones are very nice as is an Alturn. BTW if you go for 4ws use a same spec servo as the front so you have matching response times.

The M08 is great. Not as simple to drive as the M07 (which is incredible), but on the right surface it’s quicker. I would not build it at 210mm, I would run it at 239 if possible. https://www.thercracer.com/2019/06/58669-tamiya-m08-build-tips-review.html?m=0

Mb models have a lot of Tamiya kits in stock.

Nope, front and rear are not the same. However the rear bodyposts may hit the tower if you use the long posts that move to the rear, if you use upright ones they will be fine. I do not have one here to show you. (I need to make an article) but I think you know what I mean. Cheers Craig

Fibyrelyte make a better brace. Ask them if they have the RC Racer TL01 brace (it’s a mod of my M03 one) It acts as a shock tower too.

The 420 suspension arms are a huge upgrade. They are much stiffer than the previous arms and you do notice the steering response. They are also more robust if you race. The TA07 carbon chassis conversions are good. The psm, alíen RC and Exotek ones are all decent.

I have some of Marc’s photos of his actual car. I will dig them out this weekend. I put some in this article (these are the actual cars, not the press photos) https://www.thercracer.com/2014/10/ifmar-world-championship-cars.html?m=0

Not all the TT02 bits will be there, but you do get a lot of them.

Hi All As a lockdown project I am trying to get my old Tamtechs up and running (1/24 versions). These have the built in CPR unit and I used them with the original Tamtech 201 transmitter. After a lot of tampering with the batteries I've managed to get them to come alive.. (To a fashion). However whilst the throttle is fine (Up - forward, Rear Reverse). The steering is incorrect (Left stick - makes the servo steer to the Right and vice versa). This Transmitter doesn't have any reverse channels, and also it is the original transmitter for these CPR units.. Has anyone had this issue with the Tamtech set-ups etc? I've got three CPR's and they all do the same with the steering, yet are fine with the throttle. HELP!

No problem, have fun

You need this part for the rear diff Tamiya 51566 RC TRF419 Gear Diff Differential Case Secondly, I would check your build. You really should not have this happen. You probably have one of the following issues with the build. Rear belt too loose / tight. Both are an issue. You want to press your finger down on the belt and for it to be able to move 2-3mm down Diff cams - The TRF cars all have eccentric diff cams so you can adjust the tension. Each side has to be in the same position. So for example, if you are back one on the left rear, it needs to be back one on the right rear. Lots of times people do not get these aligned and that can cause issues with the drive train. If you are on carparks, you will be fine with the open belt system. Even prepped race tracks have the odd thing on them. I've raced TRF's for many years and never had a belt come off or stripped a gear because of a stone etc. I've even rallied one before and not had an issue. I have several TRF build articles here where I mention tips etc.. https://www.thercracer.com/2013/06/tamiya-trf417v5-build-thread.html https://www.thercracer.com/2014/01/tamiya-trf418-build-and-review.html https://www.thercracer.com/2015/02/42285-trf419-build-and-review.html https://www.thercracer.com/2016/07/42301-tamiya-trf419x-build-review-and.html https://www.thercracer.com/2018/06/42316-tamiya-trf419xr-build-review-and.html https://www.thercracer.com/2019/12/42345-tamiya-trf420-build-review-and.html Have fun, TRF's are great

Nope, The esc only interprets the signal, so takes very little umpff from the receiver. You need a power cap. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-power-cap/rc-car-products/368696

It’s the servo browning out. The bluebird servos are high draw, and the receiver cannot cope with the extra spike. You need to fit a power cap in the receiver. They are only £4 or so and with sort it.