qatmix

Looking good!

Lots more pics here https://www.thercracer.com/2019/04/tamiya-57409-lunch-box-mini-sw-01.html?m=0 Its going to be brilliant

The stick TT02 can be set to rally and it’s around 20mm. It’s not bad but a bit basic. The TT02S is quite different and it is a surprisingly good rally car, you just need longer shocks. Check out the RCRally group on fb. However if you really want rally, just pay the little extra and get the XV01. It’s hands down the best 1/10 rally chassis out there. They can be picked up for a great price and work out cheaper than modding a TT02 / TT01 with the needed parts (shocks, bearings etc) although a TT02S has oil shocks and bearings already.

I’m out tomorrow but will sort it next week. I will be able to get the drawings

I made some carbon towers for the tb01. They are probably archived, but I will try to dig them out and I can get a set made via fibrelyte at cost.

Yep the standard ones are great They will fit like a glove

I am sorry I missed this thread. If you can cancel the shock towers it would be a good idea as the 07 is way better outdoors with std shocks. Also you get the TRF shocks with the 07R so the low towers will not work. The only thing you should look for is the thread forming tap. It’s great for using machine screws in plastic. The rest of the stuff should fit, and assuming you are not racing they will be fine. (Alloy hubs are not great on the front of a car if you race) Onroad stuff is great, I’m looking forward to see your build.

If you are in cheadle you should pop into the Stockport RC club. It’s in the drill hall in Cheadle (obvs) on Thurs night. The more Tamiyas there the better

I would use thinner shock oil and softer front springs to allow the weight to transfer to the front as you come off power and steer into the corner. Also stiffer rear springs can help with making the rear looser causing more rotation in the corner. 2wd cars will always want to understeer on power, so you just need to ensure you are making the most of the brakes.

If wanting to do both onroad and race a Tamiya there are three main routes. Cheapest / Beginner : Tamiya TT02-S. The cheapest way to get a chassis that will get around the local track. It is not going to destroy the top level cars but with a few choice hop-ups it is able to be a good introduction into the class. It is easy to build, adjustable and easy to drive. I have hopped one and also designed a few special parts for it (Roll bar mounts, and a top deck). I even raced it in the national and scored a place in the B-Final. The amount I spent on it to go that far is way past what you would normally spend, although there is also something to be said about the concept of just investing in small chunks as your ability gets better. (Top upgrades - Alloy Prop, High speed gear set and yeah racing adjustable motor mount (Povides you with the ability to change the gearing to match the low FDR you need for high turn motors etc), Front universals, Front diff locker (Spools are great). Centre carbon deck etc. Intermediate / Beginner : Tamiya TA07pro. This kit is a great price and not much more than the TT02-S (I am not referring to the TA07 R or TA07MS here). This car is very good as it comes with some great hop-ups and importantly shares a lot of the DNA of the TRF419 and TRF419X. The kit chassis is good to go at the local club, although I would suggest buying the roll bar set once you get the car around the track as it will allow you to tune the suspension more. The kit chassis is quite flexible which is ok on most tracks as it makes the car easy to race, although if running in America you will want to get some of the carbon stiffeners, or the carbon tub to help stiffen the car up. In the uk I have added these just to try it, but it is too stiff for indoor carpet in my opinion. Intermediate / Pro : TRF419XR or TA07MS these are both top end touring cars designed by the Tamiya Racing Factory. They are both very good, the XR is the best TC I have ever raced, its quick and consistent. It has everything you need to win the A-Final in the box other than the most important thing which is actual skill. In reality all of the top end cars can win, but it is down to other aspects such as set-up, driving skill, tyre prep etc. The TA07Ms is also up there, and the motor adjustment means it could well be better at some tracks than other Top end chassis as it will have a more refined weight bias. I enjoy racing my Tamiya's Here are some links https://www.thercracer.com/2018/08/brca-uk-national-rd5-halifax-tamiya.html https://www.thercracer.com/2018/06/42316-tamiya-trf419xr-build-review-and.html TA07ms and TA07 reviews will be on www.TheRCRacer.com soon, along with a big guide on tuning the TT02-S

Great Video, I need to do this to my TNX's this year. I bought two for £45 and sold the engines.. I just never did the conversion.

The Evo 7 is quite innovative and has a lot of new features compared to not only the other evo's but most touring cars.

late June - Mid August

The new Tamiya Quattro is the body I have been after since the original release. One of my favourite rally cars of all time, and my favourite version of the model. I’m really excited about it.

The shell will make a lot of difference. I would first move the shock positions and then make the springs softer. I would not run softer springs on the front than the rear, but would go to running the same front and rear. Droop, I would go for 1mm more downstop value at the front than the rear. Usually 5 front and 4 rear is a good starting point. This will give you less weight going forward when off power, you can then tweak it to help make the car feel responsive.