qatmix

Yep as above, just buy new ones, they are cheap. Use a proper wrench like the tamiya aluminium one. I thread the ball connectors before mounting the turnbuckles. I’ve got lots of Tamiya cars with alloy turnbuckles that are well used and the turnbuckles are still prefect other than a few scratches.

If starting out get the M410 as mentioned above it’s a very neutral shell. The ZooRacing preopard is similar but the 410 is very neutral and good to start out. The popular body is the DBX, it is aggressive but still quite stable. I would suggest trying that once you feel that you need more steering and response etc.

Tamiya USA has the TRF419XR for $395 new atm. Super cheap for a top end touring car

Model sport simply sold out of their stock really quickly. It’s flyong of the shelves. When I got hold of the prototype I can see why, it’s superb! I have one waiting at home to be built https://www.thercracer.com/2019/07/57409-tamiya-rc-lunch-box-mini-hands-on.html?m=0

Wow, 1xD for RF is very narrow. I definitely would suggest you do not go more than 3 deg rear toe, it will make the rear end very locked and cause a lot of drag on the straights. 1Xa RF and 1D RR is 3 deg and is very stable and a good starting point.

As above the 46mm shafts are compatible with the TA06 arms / hubs etc. However, there is another factor, you need to consider the suspension block settings. If you make the suspension blocks more narrow then the 46mm universals might bind suspension movement. The sock kit is FF-A and FR-A and so is the R so assuming you have not gone much more narrow such as XB you should be fine. I did did a guide about Tamiya suspension settings and blocks here https://www.thercracer.com/2017/01/tamiya-suspension-mount-ultimate.html?m=0

Both are very good. The steering setup on the 07 is better than the 05 unless you buy the hop ups. It’s also easier to swap the motor position on the 07. Belts are just as durable as shafts (more so from a wear point of view). A race track outside or indoors is fine with belts. Both are great though, so it really is down to your preference. They are as fast as each other and both have good hop-up options.

Yep a TT02-S is much better than a hopped up TT01E. The main TT02 is not much of a big jump, but it is a more versatile chassis (You can change it to rally by flipping the hubs etc).

The TA03 is a good choice to try to make rwd. The stock car has 2deg caster and that’s a good start for rwd. You up want to up the rear toe in as high as you can go. Then look at your springs. The R version has the motor in a good place as well for stability. I personally wouldn’t go all in with a 11.5t motor until you have the car dialled with a slower motor. Most 4wd cars will oversteer if you chuck loads of power at them. looking forward to seeing how you progress.

54868 upgrade your dampers for the 419x (it makes them all blue and increases the movement range). then use the Black caps on your shocks

On road is fine with plastic. I’ve never had an issue with fast motors. Even the speed run guys who get way over 100mph with a TT02 run the plastic diffs with no issue.

Cosworth is unlikely to be released as the whale tail as the mould was updated to make the wrc version. Tamiya are aware that some might want it but the additional cost of changing the mould does change the potential issues with a re-release along with the sponsor stickers. Maybe if the Quattro is a roaring success, it might make it more viable.

What’s the issue with the Tamiya adjusters? Just asking as I’ve never had an issue on any of my Chassis. On my TRF cars they have the hardened connectors and the Florine / alum and steel ball connectors where I deem them necessary.

Same as the 2015 version, but black https://www.thercracer.com/2019/05/tamiya-47419-monster-beetle-black.html?m=0

Lol, no problems. Yes the tb04 gear diff and spool should be fine (although the ring gears might need swapping out. I can see what I have about and we can try a test fitting next week before you buy things incase I've got it wrong