qatmix

Strange, I always preferred the 501 body over the 511 blobby body. However they both sit on fantastic chassis.

Tt02 chassis are only £59.99 at jkrc

Bumpy bump!

If running a spool it’s worth every penny Although on a stock TT02 I think putty in the std diff makes it handle better. Just a little bit of give protects the drive train and helps it into the apex. Also no chatter with universals.

Bump! Also looking for Tamiya Hop-ups for the chassis.

The tt02-D, tt02-S, TT02R etc all cons with oil shocks and bearings. The TT02-SR comes with double cardans etc it’s a great chassis and handles really well. I love the TT02 as it’s so cheap to start off with, but just so expandable. You can pretty much tailor them to do anything.

Hi All, I have a TLT Max climber with a very sorry bodyshell. I am looking for a TLT-1 Rockbuster bodyshell or Maybe a Max Climber one. Also looking for the Carbon chassis plates and alloy swing arms. Thanks C

Plastic bushings instead of bearings .. and the Blue anodising

The kit part is perfectly fine. I've been running (Bashing) my XV01 with a 10.5 brushless (No boost). Since it was available and the gearbox is still perfect.

Uk distribution is coming apparently.

In regard to the original question. Tamiya titanium screws are much better than yeah racing ones. All of my race cars are titanium, some have alloy high grade TRF screws in as well. With a race car you want it to be as underweight as possible. Then you use brass weights / brass screws etc to perfectly balance it. I always get screws from moodyfools.com they are used by many racers. The best quality out there (and a good price). Next up would be Tamiya or Hiro-Seiko. They are both good quality. For a basher I would use steel screws. More Tamiya kits come with these nowadays, for those that don’t I usually swap over.

Hop-ups are not a con. The video itself really explains why. Why even a stock TT02 is a load of fun without any fitted. Importantly they are a great option so you can tailor a chassis to your own personal preference. I love seeing all the different TT02's out there for example.. its only possible because of Hop-ups. I personally always like to try certain hop-ups to see how they affect performance. I even fit Titanium screws to my TRF's to ensure they are as optimal as possible. Also the blue is beautiful.. so even if its not actually made much of an impact, it makes the car look better than anything else out there.. because simply Blue is best. The biggest issue is the click bait title. However I accept that full time youtubers are always trying to get hits, otherwise they do not earn money. So being a provocateur is essential to climb the greasy pole you need to ascend before it pays. Its not a judgement on RC Kicks I like some of the videos, just the whole floored revenue stream that is the cult of the click.

Whatever is my latest TRF race car. (Atm my 420x). As much as I love all sorts of chassis, the pinnacle of the hobby is the social side to me. So I will always want to be racing against friends.

The XV01 is basically the best option. There seems to be quite a few about atm as the XV02 is out. A TT02 in rally spec is good fun. It’s cheap with lots of option parts. The TB01 is a tank. Spares are hard to find, but it’s difficult to break anything on it. I started by rallying thd TA01, as much as I like that chassis, the ones above are all better nowadays. I’d really recommend the XV01 though

Thanks guys, I have managed to clean up the shell that came with this (Well I have stripped the three layers of paint off the shell). I am going to paint it.. I know it's difficult, but I remember back in the day using a primer that was used on car bumpers and then spraying it with Tamiya paints.. although that would have been over 30 years ago I have also repaired the chassis with two excellent 3D printed shock towers. These are nice and beefy and much stronger than a small bodge / fix. I am keen to try to fit a diff in there, I assume a SRB diff will not work?

Hi Luke, I will post a carpet set-up (To be honest it is similar).

They both did excellently in the race. Their third finals were really impressive, Tim managed third in that one. All the drivers I know who have the TRF420X have only found the car to be very quick and competitive with anything else out there. It's just a shame that there are no Team drivers anymore to really showcase the cars, as someone like Marc is always going to showcase how a car can shine.

Hi All A friend recently gave me a very battered Original vintage holiday buggy. It is in a sorry state. I already have one which is on my shelf (My original one, gently restored), So this is going to be a fun runner in the garden.. and maybe I might even enter in in revival for a laugh next year. With that in mind, I have a few questions. Is there a lexan HB shell? I am sure Parma or someone used to make something back in the day, I do have a very battered shell with this car, but would like to maybe run a lexan shell. Are the screws M4? Is there any way I can add oil shocks to the front? Is there a diff solution? Would a SRB diff work in this? Is there a gear cover other than the team Bluegroove one from canada? I will post pics soon.. It's currently being washed.. (The amount of dirt in it was grim). Thanks Again

The Audi is going to sit on the top of mine.. All hop-ups are here and now I just need the time to build it

I think there was also a hornet black edition at some point..

I think it looks smart. It's just a black edition, it's not meant to offer anything other than a different look to the original. I always thought the Egress Box art was very bland, this looks much better. I also really liked the black Monster beetle.

The club really doesn't cover the average joe.. it mainly has more hardcore collectors etc, that is what is seen in the showrooms. The TD4 sold out the first three production runs, it is only the last batch that seem to be available to easily pick up. My local hobby shop only managed to get some a few weeks ago.

Bump

Have eventually finished my TRF420X review. It really is a nice step forward. I am getting faster and faster with this car. The crazy thing is that it’s so easy to drive. Today I just broke my PB (and track record) by over 10 seconds with this car. I set the time in the final, I wasn’t even pushing too hard as I wanted to ensure I got top points for the summer championship. I also included a range of different drivers experiences with the new chassis in this review. https://www.thercracer.com/2022/07/42382-tamiya-trf420x-build-review-and.html?m=0

The front block is a different size to the existing ones available. Hence that is why they are making the new (XH) part. The split blocks are the same size as the Separate A blocks that are available now. Although the actual widths are not the same as a std A block, as they are mounted in different positions to the standard Tamiya blocks.. So basically, if you want alloy parts, get two separate A blocks (54884), and two of the new parts (22055).. At least, that is what it looks like going off the manual.. I've not built it yet