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qatmix

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About qatmix

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  • Birthday 07/14/1972

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    http://www.theRCracer.com
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  • Location
    Manchester
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    RC Racing

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  1. Always go to the TRF420 over the 419. It’s quite a big jump. The TA07MS is also a TRF kit, high quality. The TA07MSX will be here soon and that is a big jump over the MS. It would work with Mod racing as well as stock.
  2. As above, looking for the full set please. Ta
  3. Yep, Andy and Myself run the 415. Although I have not made it for the last couple of years, but Andy is always there. He also posts set-ups on the site ( www.TheRcRacer.com ) What sort of info do you need?
  4. It would quicker and better for the motor with the plastic gears. They would have no problems with those motors.
  5. I think some people ran on a highly abrasive grit surface, almost like sand. Mine haVe been used on Astro, grass, dirt (uk dirt) and gravel. Never an issue with over a decade of running. Infact I was basing one around only this week. I do maintain my runners, with regular checks etc, but nothing drastic.
  6. The DF03 MS is a fun chassis. I just replaced the outdrives with the steel ones at the rear. I’ve had two df03’s since they were released and they have ran 5.5t’s and the idle gear is fine. Over a decade of use, no real issues. There are some ace carbon towers by topcad. The short wheelbase makes it fun for general bashing as it’s quite lively. It’s ok at the track but a DB01 will destroy it in every respect. So if you want to try out a Tamiya at a club (Other than a TRF) the DB01 is better, but for a fun chassis which is ok at smaller tracks the df03 is ok.
  7. It is very hard to get parts for this yacht. I also have one and spent a long time trying to acquire parts (still haven't found all the parts I wanted). I even had a friend out in Japan looking for me. What specific part are you after from the B-Parts tree?
  8. Hi All, I am slowly restoring a 1977 Tamiya Leopard 1A4 (Very different to my normal RC). I am looking for several spare parts or maybe even a tatty old version for a donor vehicle. The key parts I am after is the main rear panel and the Left side skirt (Shurtzen). Also a couple of the inner return rollers and attachment pegs would be useful. Please let me know if you have any parts for sale. Thanks
  9. The TRF503 was developed by Lee Martin. It's a brilliant 4wd chassis.
  10. I think it looks great, again, it also seems to be selling well.
  11. The T3-01 is a very popular chassis. Cars that bombed would be the RCBoys series. They were going for pennies even a few years ago. I cannot think of any set of chassis that have been so universally unpopular. I love em, but I suppose I like the way that they are so opposite to my TRF’s
  12. Personally I would just go for 54543 TB04 Gear Different Aluminum Cup Joint, and universals. All of the other diff parts are just extra weight. The only other parts I would consider are the 54533 Gear Differential Cross Shaft, but only if you are going to run a high turn motor. If running anything 13.5 or higher I would stay with plastic. Mine will be wither 21.5 or 17.5
  13. The unboxing video.. https://www.thercracer.com/2020/08/tamiya-trf211x-unboxing-video.html
  14. I would check that you have built it correctly, the balls falling out might show that the pin is too short, or bent, or the socket for the ball has been stretched with a big hit (This can happen if you have ever hit the corner of the car, it might survive but it would bend the plastic a little. I raced one for about 2 seasons with the plastic kit parts and never had the arm fall out. (Neither did the guy I raced with who also had the Db01). Failing that i would go for the carbon re-enforced parts, they are a good compromise between strength and lightness.
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