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Everything posted by qatmix

  1. Always go to the TRF420 over the 419. It’s quite a big jump. The TA07MS is also a TRF kit, high quality. The TA07MSX will be here soon and that is a big jump over the MS. It would work with Mod racing as well as stock.
  2. As above, looking for the full set please. Ta
  3. Yep, Andy and Myself run the 415. Although I have not made it for the last couple of years, but Andy is always there. He also posts set-ups on the site ( www.TheRcRacer.com ) What sort of info do you need?
  4. It would quicker and better for the motor with the plastic gears. They would have no problems with those motors.
  5. I think some people ran on a highly abrasive grit surface, almost like sand. Mine haVe been used on Astro, grass, dirt (uk dirt) and gravel. Never an issue with over a decade of running. Infact I was basing one around only this week. I do maintain my runners, with regular checks etc, but nothing drastic.
  6. The DF03 MS is a fun chassis. I just replaced the outdrives with the steel ones at the rear. I’ve had two df03’s since they were released and they have ran 5.5t’s and the idle gear is fine. Over a decade of use, no real issues. There are some ace carbon towers by topcad. The short wheelbase makes it fun for general bashing as it’s quite lively. It’s ok at the track but a DB01 will destroy it in every respect. So if you want to try out a Tamiya at a club (Other than a TRF) the DB01 is better, but for a fun chassis which is ok at smaller tracks the df03 is ok.
  7. It is very hard to get parts for this yacht. I also have one and spent a long time trying to acquire parts (still haven't found all the parts I wanted). I even had a friend out in Japan looking for me. What specific part are you after from the B-Parts tree?
  8. Hi All, I am slowly restoring a 1977 Tamiya Leopard 1A4 (Very different to my normal RC). I am looking for several spare parts or maybe even a tatty old version for a donor vehicle. The key parts I am after is the main rear panel and the Left side skirt (Shurtzen). Also a couple of the inner return rollers and attachment pegs would be useful. Please let me know if you have any parts for sale. Thanks
  9. The TRF503 was developed by Lee Martin. It's a brilliant 4wd chassis.
  10. I think it looks great, again, it also seems to be selling well.
  11. The T3-01 is a very popular chassis. Cars that bombed would be the RCBoys series. They were going for pennies even a few years ago. I cannot think of any set of chassis that have been so universally unpopular. I love em, but I suppose I like the way that they are so opposite to my TRF’s
  12. Personally I would just go for 54543 TB04 Gear Different Aluminum Cup Joint, and universals. All of the other diff parts are just extra weight. The only other parts I would consider are the 54533 Gear Differential Cross Shaft, but only if you are going to run a high turn motor. If running anything 13.5 or higher I would stay with plastic. Mine will be wither 21.5 or 17.5
  13. The unboxing video.. https://www.thercracer.com/2020/08/tamiya-trf211x-unboxing-video.html
  14. I would check that you have built it correctly, the balls falling out might show that the pin is too short, or bent, or the socket for the ball has been stretched with a big hit (This can happen if you have ever hit the corner of the car, it might survive but it would bend the plastic a little. I raced one for about 2 seasons with the plastic kit parts and never had the arm fall out. (Neither did the guy I raced with who also had the Db01). Failing that i would go for the carbon re-enforced parts, they are a good compromise between strength and lightness.
  15. That’s fantastic, thanks for this. I have snuck away from the decorating, I’m still trying to understand the clutch mechanism. I’ve loosened the grub screw on the long shafts, and I can see the little friction pads. I can see some groves on the brass pad behind it. I’m still a bit confused about it all
  16. Thanks for this. It would be very good to have some (I am in no way bothered about them needing to be original). It’s going to be a runner. I do have the manual (from Tamiyabase), it is before Tamiya really got their manuals up to the standard they are now. The gearbox is already assembled so the manual doesn’t have any instructions on how to assemble/ dissemble it. I have been busy with some DIY jobs do not been able to delve further. I did spend a little time looking at the clutch. I removed the servo and moved the arm by hand. When I move it to the left or right the track does not stop, but it is putting enough load to slow down both tracks.
  17. Thanks for this. Yes the pin should not come out (the other side is solid). I will bond that back together with some metal glue. I will also look at aligning it, I have done a quick test on the bench and it is fine under no load, and can even when I do it on the desk. The clutch is still a bit hard for me to grasp. I will take some more photos of the clutch / gearbox and if you can point me into the direction of what you mean that would be appreciated. I have seen your great conversions, they are amazing and it is your tanks that made me want one of my own. This was a very good price and in reality it will only be run lightly once it is working so I think I will try to get this system working.
  18. Hi All, I am new to tanks, and have picked up an old Tamiya King tiger. It is the original one with the clutch. I have fired it up and there are a couple of pressing issues. One of the bevel gears has sawtoothed. - When go forward the right hand side skips as the bevel on the gear (Attached) has worn funny, so it trys to lift itself out. In reverse it is fine (As the saw-tooth on the bevel is only one direction). Is there anywhere that has these gears as a spare? The second issue is that the clutch does not seem to work, moving the arm to the left and the right does not stop the track. It does however slow the whole tank down.. Any tips? Third issue (I know I said two earlier) Is that the front sprocket wheel is coming loose. I know it is attached to the axle via a screw, but I cannot get to it as the screw is covered up under a glued in place wheel cap. (As per the instructions). How can I remove that without damaging the small gear cap? Help!
  19. The whole contents, kit build etc will be on the website. It is a valuable bit of Tamiya history, and it will be great to share it with everyone.
  20. Looks what we have here pretty excited about it. The TRF holy grail. https://www.thercracer.com/2020/08/tamiya-trf211x-exclusive.html?m=0
  21. I love these little cars. I think the Mini Lunchbox has stopped my thumbs seizing up over lockdown, I have been able to race it around the house and in the garden. I glued the driveshafts in from the beginning, as I have some T301's and they benefited from doing this. I have totally used and abused it and nothing has broken yet. https://www.thercracer.com/2020/06/57409-tamiya-sw-01-lunchbox-mini-build.html I have 3 of them now, I am working on a very special modified one, just need more time (The story of my life). As to bearings I always use bearing from RCbearings.co.uk they have never let me down.
  22. RCbearings.co.uk are brilliant. I use them in all my cars. I also use their ceramic bearings in my race cars.
  23. T2 shop is selling brand new TRF419XR kits for £270 if you want a bargain Tamiya racer
  24. I actually found the Konghead runs great even with the kit Pogo’s as it’s a heavy little truck. Servo wise the steering is quite light and free so pretty much any are fine. The £20 hobbyking ones are very nice as is an Alturn. BTW if you go for 4ws use a same spec servo as the front so you have matching response times.
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