qatmix

There is also a Tamtech Volvo that was produced (Touring car era). I think it was only available through Volvo dealers.

Tamiya makes their clamp hex's in a range of sizes.. The TRF's usually come with 4mm which is too narrow for anything other than most race spec wheels. For a TT02 6mm hex's are recommended as they work with the majority of wheels out there. It looks like you have fitted wheels that are too deep for the hex and that is why you have that issue. It's nothing to do with being aluminium etc.

No idea what happened before.. anyway here are the pics again.

At a local indoor off road club someone took a big std TD2 but with club tyres and was either 2nd or third in the B.. the finals go down to G or H.. kit std (probably different shock oil etc). Obviously they are a good driver, and racing can have lots of ups and downs, but it shows that the TD2 isn’t bad for the money.

The MB-01 will replace the M05/M06 is is not a replacement for the M07/M08.. they are more for performance based M-Chassis racing, hence why they do not come with bodies or tyres. The FF04 was only released as the evo chassis for racing.. It's very nice but quite old fashioned by modern FF racing rules.. As to a TT03.. well let's see what the next year holds.

Thanks for this, that thread is great. It's even tempting me to buy one

Nice, What mods are you able to do to them? Apart from back in the day I’ve never seen one been run?

The 60D ones are slicks and in soft / med only

I always struggle with more capable trail trucks. I bought an axial in lockdown as I was not racing, it was capable but just wasn’t realistic. I was recommended a f350 and picked one up for peanuts on eBay as it seemed no one wanted them. I loved it, it was much more like a real truck and I found it a lot more enjoyable to drive. It’s still basically stock, including the terrible tyres. I also agree that it’s unique for this type of kit. As to old kits that still lurks around, I always am surprised with the XR311.. who buys them? I assume nobody as that is why they are still on the shelves.

A bog standard TT02 will be faster than a bog standard TA02. It's heavy, has terrible base suspension geometry for an modern on-road car, the steering is not very good and it also has a very draggy drive train. It's also really heavy. Don't get me wrong, I have a lot of love for those cars, I raced a TA01 in the very early days of the what became the modern TC class, the TA02 was better simply because of the weight distribution of the battery and the shorter prop shaft. It was the only race chassis available at that time until Yokomo released the YR4 and it started to come over to the UK early in 94. Although to be honest the original version was pretty poor. The preferred kit was a TA02 with the HPI kit. I always have a soft spot for a Tamiya tub chassis. It's still fun after a race when someone comes over to see a TT02 on your set-up board.. A fully tooled up one is surprisingly neutral and easy to drive at a club level in 17.5t.

RC mart sell the flange separately btw

https://www.thercracer.com/2020/10/54965-tamiya-tt02-type-s-aluminum.html This is the best hop-up steering part. Although the kit plastic arms in the SR and SRX are fine as they use a flange and a lower screw attachment.

TT02 classes have proven really popular. Most use the kit torque tuned motors. This pretty much makes the cars indestructible. The drive shaft issue is usually because people do no fit the steering arm limiter in the car, this couples up with the kit servo saver being very soft so on a hard hit, the steering angle becomes really large so the dogbone falls out. The steering not going straight is again down to the servo saver being a bit soft, if you build the car with a servo and don't use the correct servo height fitting the horn can gain quite a lot of friction. A very simple fix is to superglue the servo saver.. It will take out any slop and in the event of a large crash it will still work as the shock will break the bond with the glue.

For onroad you can actually have some 'Kick up'. It is usually referred to as pro-dive.. It will only be a very small amount that it is raised by (Usually adding shims under the front suspension block). More Front pro-dive = More initial steering, less steering around the rest of the corner. Less Front pro-dive = Less initial steering, more steering around the rest of the corner. lots of info for onroad here https://www.thercracer.com/2017/01/tamiya-suspension-mount-ultimate.html

The T3-01 is one of the best fun kits out there.. I love mine.. You can go to town with the hop-ups and it can also handle a quick brushless motor.. Superb little chassis. The Mini lunchbox is fun with a sports tuned if you widen the stance a little, but a brushless would be too much. https://www.thercracer.com/2021/02/tamiya-t3-01-and-why-i-love-it.html

252 euro if you are in the UK (Import tax etc not withstanding)

Personally I think this is an absolute class release. Tamiya has released a 100% brand new car that is one of the most scale representations of a cage buggy out there. It has not scrimped on anything, it has alloy shocks, bearings, proper hex head screws. It's been built to withstand a lot of hard driving, and it also has a range of suitable hop-ups. There is nothing on the market like it. Tamiya has made a truly modern take on the Retro buggy, and its priced at around the same price as a Sandscorcher.. which is not nearly as complex or well engineered (And also not great to drive in this day and age). Cannot wait to get this and give it a bash on the beach..

In the article above, it has photos that show it can take a square cased lipo

LOLZ, . I very much doubt it will be worse than the M05.. I imagine it will be better.. but we will see. I think it will look nice and tidy if the electrics were installed professionally.

Yes.. The M05 and M06 are toast. Long live the MB-01.

You can run the MB-01 in a high traction setting for RWD. It raises the motor and the battery goes underneath.. I think it will work much better than the M06

This is a cool looking and very versatile new M-Chassis Loads more info here https://www.thercracer.com/2023/02/58721-tamiya-fiat-abarth-mb-01-photos.html

I have a really nice rear brace all ready to be released, just waiting on the final test part to arrive. it will be less than a tenner and should totally eliminate any concerns about the rear of the chassis.

I loved my M01.. I am gutted I sold it, it had all the hop-ups of the time and it was really fast.. Least favourite is the M06.. just never felt it was consistent. The M07 is a country mile the best M-Chassis. Absolutely superb car, a totally different league to the other cars and even in the Bandit classes against the other manufactures chassis it cleans up. So much so that they all moved over to M07's