Jump to content

TrevCoult

Members
  • Posts

    67
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by TrevCoult

  1. See this thread on RCRaceChat.com http://www.rcracechat.com/vb/showthread.php?t=19681 Hope it helps regarding turns. With ESCs, you need a 10 turn ESC for a 10X1, 10X2, 10X3 etc. It is the number of turns that matters, not whether it is single, double or triple wound. Some like to play safe and get an ESC better rated than the motor e.g. a 7 turn ESC for a 10 turn motor. Gear ratios also play a big part, and its not just a smaller pinion. In general, the fewer turns, the higher the revs, and also to a degree less torque. To make the most of the revs and balance the torque you need a higher gear ratio. Example would be if you are using a stock motor at 8:1 ratio, if you use a 19 turn motor you may need to go to, say, 10:1. This can be done by using a smaller pinion, or a bigger spur, or both. Depends on what is available and what suits the car. You will have to experiment in this area as the optimum gear ratio depends on the car, the motor and where you are driving it. There is a setup guide at http://users.pandora.be/elvo that may be of use. Trev
  2. OK, now I've run at the Clumber bash I can say a bit more about the 3Racing shocks. Had no more problems with bending the rods despite ramping the DI multiple times, doing race simulation runs on various surfaces and not a few crashes! The shocks feel just as new and tight now as they did when I first fitted them, so it doesn't seem like the bushes wear quickly. Definitely still little side to side movement on the rods. If you want to see some of what it went through and what they look like see the photos and video for Clumber 15th Oct on Devilsome's pages. If I get the time I'll put up some pics of them in my showroom soon. I wasn't sure if the oil weights above were a bit heavy before using the DI as suspension movement was quite slow, but on trying was very good on hard surfaces and grass with the Tamiya option gold springs, so didn't try anything else. Might be worth going down to 20 front, 30 rear on more bumpy surfaces. Was also jumping good and flat as long as I kept the power on for most of the airtime. Overall I'd recommend these to anyone who can't afford the Tamiya option shocks, and possibly also to those who can. Can't say for sure there as not tried them. Definitely worth a try at half the price of the option shocks, even at ebay prices. Hope thats enough info for everyone. Just ask if not. Trev PS. At risk of sounding like 3Racing's promotions dept. their titanium screw set is wonderful. Far lighter and tighter than the original screws. Don't just get them for the weight saving, feels like a much better built car overall after fitting them, and the hex heads are far better. Now when are they going to bring out their carbon towers?
  3. Could have got you on the corners mate but would have been blown away on the straights! BZ no match for that 14t pink monster. Had a great time, think we could get one more in this year if everyone's up to it. Amazed how quick you got the photos and vid up [] See you next time! Trev
  4. Sorry to hear that. Hopefully see you next time. Trev
  5. I think I'm right, but given my wonderful memory for names and faces don't bank on it! Trev
  6. Seconded actually. Maybe make a few available for sale? I was asking about them at the last Clumber meet. Trev
  7. And anyway, if you can actually get that brushless DS to go round corners you've won!!! Trev
  8. Sorry about going on as if you'd never been. Didn't recognise the replacement account! Trev
  9. Not had the chance to really hammer them yet, but could give first impressions. Turned up, nicely packaged. Look the business. Not much in the way of instructions. Longer than the standard DI shocks. Already built with shock oil in. Might as well throw that away though as its close to water. Standard mounting points OK at rear but too much ride height at front, so need experimentation there to find the best mounting points. Tried outer top, one in from outer at bottom in order to keep similar geometry. Gave them a quick run exactly as supplied, rear was kicking up on the jumps a bit much. Then managed to bend a rear shock rod! Luckily managed to straighten it OK. Think they could do with being built with stronger rods as didn't do too much to it, a couple of end over ends due to the rear kick up. At least they are going to do rebuild kits with replacement rods! Have now replaced the shock oil with 30 at front and 40 at rear. Also put on the gold Tamiya option springs instead of the standard. These will fit spot on at the rear but are a bit tight at the front, although usable. Done this as the Tamiya springs are shorter so can be set up to use the standard mounting points at the front, also they are softer than the 3Racing ones. Am going to experiment at the Clumber meet this weekend (if I can make it) to see what works best. Still quite impressed despite possible suspect rod strength, although I've no Tamiya option shocks to compare against. Anyone have both to give a comparative review? Will post more when I've hammered them a bit. Trev
  10. I'll probably not know for sure if I can go until the day, but will do if at all possible. Definitely preparing everything as if I am! Same place and time sounds good to me. Have to take my car/bus [] in though as will have to leave same time as last time. Sounds like so far Me (probably), Devilsome, Bassguru. Anyone else gonna come? Trev
  11. Yep. Clumber meets are usually more of a bash really, and definitely off road. It would just be a bit of fun to pit our cars against each other occasionally especially since some of us are getting some of the faster ones now [] . We need something to mark out a bit of a circuit though. Anyone anything that might be used for that? Part of the barbie area might be good enough to run in, quite bumpy but not too much grass, and away from the ramblers and bikers. Trev
  12. Still be fun, even if I lose [] Need motor/esc upgrade but there's a limit to how much I can spend at once! I'll just have to try to do it on driving ability [] Trev
  13. See if I can ramp in a straight line this time [] Now you've got a Dyna Storm, how about setting up a track and racing it against the DI? Could be fun. Trev
  14. Sorry about not replying earlier, family matters at home and rebuilding my work PC so lost the tc password! I think I'll be going but not absolutely sure (those darned family matters again!). Want to anyway as want to do some "proper" car tuning rather than trying to kill the DI. Even got a 12v battery now so I don't have to run the car just to charge batts! Also, anyone got a steerwheel TX/RX set I can borrow for part of the day (or a 40 meg am TX)? Want to try one out to see if I like them. Never used one before. Might be hard after 27 years of sticks but gotta try sometime. Trev
  15. Just got and fitted the 3Racing shock set but not had the chance to try the car out yet. As previously promised I will give a full review when I've tried them but so far visually they look decent quality. Also just fitted the Tamiya slipper and one way so have a lot to get used to in one go. Trev
  16. Great pics of my DI. Scary what I put it through! Might be a little kinder to it in future. Shows that a Dark Impact is a great jumper though, even almost stock, and pretty robust. Thanks for putting up the vid. Thoroughly enjoyed it. Trev
  17. They have stated so on their forum. Don't know what layout it will be though. For those who haven't seen their current and upcoming range they are here. Trev
  18. I have just ordered the 3 Racing shocks. Will report on them when installed and used. Also planning half the rest of the 3 Racing hop-ups when they are released. Look very promising, but will hold judgement until I've tried the shocks out properly. Trev
  19. As I said above that was my first thought. Thanks for confirming that it is worth trying. Trev
  20. Good idea! Thanks for that. I presume use the 20 second curing stuff rather than the 2 second. I do want to be able to get it off again! Trev
  21. Thanks for your post. Its seating properly but the screws aren't holding. Was wondering if using threaded instead of self tapping might work as they are effectively wider, but once they are used there's no going back so I thought I better ask other opinions before I tried them. Will it work? Trev
  22. I have a couple of self tappers at the bottom of the gearbox that won't grab properly so won't fully tighten. It is as if the holes are slightly too large. Is there anything I can to to correct this, like maybe use MA4 screws instead? Don't really fancy having to souce A parts, especially when they may be the same, and don't want the rear end of the car departing from the chassis!. Any ideas? Trev
  23. Parts ordered, no Grand Prix on that weekend, just have to persuade the family now! In other words I think that date is ok, just have to double check. Trev
  24. Gimme a chance. Gotta find some bits first so I have a proper runner again! Can someone post a list of everyone who was there last time to jog my awful memory? Trev
  25. Not put mine in a race situation yet so not sure how long the cells would last then, but I would guess 10 mins ish for 3000s. Yours should be fine for a 5-6 min race (5 min standard off road). Stick or side by side cells will fit, the only problem being where the connectors go on side by side. See the main Dark Impact thread for information on that. There is plenty! Might be worth getting the centre one way for better turn in, but I've not tried it myself. Seems to turn in ok without, but may be even better with, could depend on the surface. Trev
×
×
  • Create New...