cherrybomb

....and here. They're an inprovement over the stock set up, that's for sure.

Still in limbo at the moment. I have a couple of engineering shops that make bits for me, but they fit stuff in around 'real' work. I'm waiting on prototype bits and I can't pester too much because I don't want to ruin the relationship I've got with these guys. It took me a long time to find people who would even consider making such short runs of parts without charging silly money for them. I'll keep you posted on progress.

T'is very cool. It was seeing that which made me wish someone else would make one for less than I could buy a full size rig!

OK. Since we've had votes for so many *@!!!>>** Landrovers..... (only kidding folks ) How about some proper 4X4s XJ Cherokee Scrambler FSJ JK Wrangler

OK. So I now know they are (or were) made by Panda and I have a part number (thanks Trail Jero). So the search starts.

I got these off ebay. I have no idea who made them, but they fit a 1.75" wheel so I'm guessing they are vintage. They seem to be a reasonable copy of the real thing, the fronts are 1.25" wide and the rears are 1.5" both 3" diameter. I'm one front short of two sets, so I'm now on the look out for one. They will be great for Class 5 projects. Do any of you guys have an idea of what they are off or who made them 'cos I'm at a loss. They are cool though!

Where did that awesome engine come from??

There's an ebay seller in the USA who sells some repro ones from time to time. Sorry I can't do any better than that, I don't know his ID but they do pop up from time to time. Have you tried RS or Maplins? I use standard grommits from Maplin for SRB shocks. Use two with one end cut off each so they are a 'T' profile and fit them from either side. They work fine once everything is tightened up.

Let's just hope a Tamiya one would be more reliable and have better build quality than the real thing.

She do look sweet don't she?

The chassis and shock towers are stock. The original shocks are red plastic adjustables and the wheels were white.

The one with the orange wheels is a Losi. Either a Junior or JRX2. I've only ever seen the JRX with a flat carbon chassis and trailing arms but the Junior had a moulded chassis like that one. The white one in a Kyosho Ultima.

You can also have a look in the 'SRB Group' SIG Group for hop up parts. SRB Group SIG

Hi Marv. This is the set up I use (it's quite common). It's an alloy 'winged' chassis with modern stick pack battery, electronic speed controller and direct steer. The battery box is from Kamtec (www.kamtec.co.uk) but you don't have to use one at all if you don't want to. I fix my batteries with sticky backed velcro, but you can use velcro straps. If you look under the reference section on the TC site and select Sand Scorcher under the Tamiya section you'll find the members rides. There's loads of photos in there.

They're very nice and I'd love a set but at 60 a pop, they're a bit too nice for an easy replacement on every day runners. Oh, and right back at ya BJ.

You can. You just need to do a bit of work on the gearbox.

I'm gonna say it again...... Vac formed motor and gear covers for the SRB.

Yes to the Sand Rover shell, I've always fancied doing an SRB beach buggy. YES to the engine moulding....YES, YES, YES! Oh, and how about some motor and gear covers, rekon they'd sell like hot cakes. ...oh, and I almost forgot......what about an interior for the Baja shell???

Hi Ed. Welcome to the club. The super Champ gearbox is different to the other SRBs. It has larger holes for the rear a-arm shafts because of the mono shock set up on the Champ. It's worth you trying a wanted / trade ad. hear on the forum in the sales section and on the Club ,in your showroom if you subscribe or in the new trade section if you don't. There may be someone out there who would swap a NIB Scorcher case for a Champ one. The only other alternative is to keep your eyes open on eblag. I'm assuming you want a new one so you may have a wait on your hands. Chris.

Yup. I can believe that but you wouldn't want to swing off it! On an SRB the cast alloy part is going to fail way before the steel screws. (who hasn't suffered from stripped threads). You really want the fixing to fail first on a vintage truck where parts are hard to come by, so if we're going to get that technical, we should be fitting aluminium alloy screws and buying very expensive torque wrenches.

I think Blacque Jacque may have made a typo. (Oops! just re-read his post....yup, M4 for bumpers!) Most of the fixings on an SRB are socket headed M3 not M4. You need 6mm, 10mm and 18mm for standard, but if you're using an alloy chassis I'd go for 8mm instead of 6mm......oh, and 20mm will be fine if you can't get 18mm (it's an unusual size ) The only M4's are for the servo mount, front bumper, wheel nuts and the grub screws for the UJ's. You need 3mm M3 grub screws for the shocks and front arms and M2 slots for the ball races and wheels. There's no need to use alloy steel fixings on a radio control car, especially an SRB. most threads are going into alloy or plastic. You would be fine with aluminium alloy fixings (actually probably better off) but they need to be very carefully torqued up and are pricey, so stainless work great since weight isn't really an issue on the old lumps! Oh, and finally I doubt you'll get much luck at a standard hardware store. M4 is usually the smallest fixing they will stock and even then I very much doubt they'll have stainless. Chris.

Try www.modelfixings.co.uk.

Always.

I'm in that horrible position where I'm having to wait on others before I can continue. What with that and my main man having broken his fingers lifting a jig! no news yet folks. BUT.....watch this space, with any luck things will progress quickly once I have some vital components.

Well I've finally updated my showroom and aplied to join the SIG.......finally! .........and I'm in!