cherrybomb

Yeah, I'm a little concerned about the durability of the trailing arms. They are made from 2mm stainless, so are fairly tough but they may need more meat on them. The other thoughts if they do prove to cause a problem is to triangulate them or switch to a different material like carbon fiber which has more 'spring' in it. As for the drive shafts, I'm hoping that hybrid SRB / Frog shafts will work, I'm reasonably confident they will, but if not I've ordered some Traxxas Bandit shafts which are a 5mm size with UJ's both ends and sliding splines.

Progress so far..... So far it's looking good. The design has changed a little to use frog axles and modified drive shafts and as you can see there's lots left to do. Once this one is done, I'm going to do a version that uses a stealth gearbox! So what are your thoughts so far? Chris.

I just use two rubber grommets in each end. Cut one end off each one and then fit them from opposite sides. Works a treat.[]

You GIT!!! [][] It's now 2:15am and I've just looked up the solution![:|] Very good, but I'd have never have got it without help, it's been a long time since I've done pure maths at that level. Well done...you got me.

Heck! this is hard. I can't get it down from 4 goes. I'll get there in the end though, even if it kills me!

I can do it in 4, can't see how to do it in 3 YET!

I think, if I put all the bits I've got together, I've got at least 7 or 8 SRBs there abouts. IF (and it's a HUGE IF) Tamiya re re'd them I'd probably buy several. From a personal point of view, I don't really think it would make much difference to me if it was the same as the original or updated with more plastic bits, as long as it kept the same front suspension design. From a business point of view, I hope it would be identical to the original (better front ball cups maybe).....more scorchers means i sell more hop ups![] Ahh! it's good to dream.

Hope you're not after a commission![] Yup, them's the ones. They're a little different to them, the main difference being that the new ones won't be drilled with the shock mount hole, so they should fit a wide variety of modern buggy shocks.

You can't go, we've only just got to know each other![] Seriously, good luck mate. It's been cool and I'm sure you'll be back.[H]

Hi there WWD. Shock mounts are sitting in my workshop waiting for the mounting holes to be drilled. As soon as they're ready they'll be stuck on the bay but if you contact me through the club you'll get the TC discount.[] Just keep your eyes on eblag. []

You have a PM Dr.Robotnik.[] There will be diffs made, Looking at the comments on here, it'll probably be a geared diff first and then a ball diff. The reason for solid brass gears first, is I'll get some samples cut to see how they turn out. I might as well get these made so that they can be used, hense the brass final gear idea. You're right, you can get brass idler gears NOS off the bay. Not sure how much stock the guy has though, but at the moment I'll concentrate on the final drive. To be honest, the other reason behind making the brass final gear is a few sales of them will put some money in the pot for the diff projects.

Cor! You go away for a day or two and find you've started this.....[] Right, minor progress report. I'm going to get some brass replacement gears made and see how they turn out. Seems a few people would be interested in them and they'd certainly mean more powerful motors can be used and they'd be ideal for beach runners that you don't really need a diff in. Then I'll start on diffs. Looking at the comments, it might be the Nodis type that gets looked at first, but I can't see any reason why I can't look at making a ball diff as well. Watch this space...... Chris.

The mafia make fake differentials???? Do you have their email?[]

Wow! [] They ARE toys, just like Star Wars figures, Action Man and Beanie Babies are toys. Doesn't stop them being worth loads of money to some people. Personnally I wouldn't send a 10th of that on any RC car, but then I wouldn't think twice about spending it on me Jeep (if I had it to spend!). If money wasn't am issue, I maybe would pay thousands for a NIB Scorcher. Then I'd rip it open, build it and run it til it broke. That's just me, and it doesn't mean I have any more or less respect for them than someone who would put the unopened box on the shelf and look at it. But they're STILL toys! [] and I wouldn't want it any other way.

Blacque Jacques: I mean ease of manufacture (for me). Getting stuff hardened is no problem and tungsten balls just have to be out soursed. I can get straight gears cut, but bevel gears I'd need to either buy in or have made else where. Mind you, looking at the photos of the nodis geared diff, there are no bevel gears in it so that would probably be a go'er. Mark: Thanks for the offer mate, I think I can probably sort something out with Dr. Robotnik, but if it's not possible I'll give you a shout.[]

I thought this might cause a bit of a stir![] Dr.Robotnik. has offered help on providing access to the original diffs. (Thanks). We need to sort out the details, but it's a first step. My main concern is ease of manufacture. A geared diff is going to be lower maintenance, but a ball diff would probably be easier to make. Until I see how much work is involved, discussing which would be better is a bit academic. Let's see how things go once I've had a chance to see all the options up close and personal. Exciting though ain't it?[]

I thought I'd put a copy of this post from sales and wanteds in here. I know it's a bit naughty, but it is definitely of most relevance to us vintage types and might get spotted by people in here who wouldn't necessarily see it in the sales section. I want to have a bash at making some repro SRB Ball Diffs but have a bit of a problem. I need to get an original in my hands, or some manufacturing drawings. I'm not particular about which make I copy but I can't go ahead until I have something to work from. Access to a new water cutter that is capable of cutting the gear in one hit has made this a possibility, I've just seen it cut a comb with 0.5mm teeth from 30mm ally, so it shouldn't have any problems with the tooth pitch on srb gears. I know it's a big ask, but does anyone have one that they would be prepared to send to me for a short time, to take some measurements off? I'd obviously make it worth your while and be happy to come to some sort of arrangement to compensate you for your trouble. (maybe a free repro diff for your time). Cheers Chris.

I want to have a bash at making some repro SRB Ball Diffs but have a bit of a problem. I need to get an original in my hands, or some manufacturing drawings. I'm not particular about which make I copy but I can't go ahead until I have somthing to work from. Access to a new water cutter that is capable of cutting the gear in one hit has made this a possibility, I've just seen it cut a comb with 0.5mm teeth from 30mm ally, so it shouldn't have any problems with the tooth pitch on srb gears. I know it's a big ask, but does anyone have one that they would be prepared to send to me for a short time,to take some measurements off? I'd obviously make it worth your while and be happy to come to some sort of arrangement to compensate you for your trouble. (maybe a free repro diff for your time). Cheers Chris.

Blitzer bodies can be had on the bay for about £15.00. (I've just brought one.) That's only a couple of quid more than the Kamtec shell.[]

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The kamtec bodies are OK. The detailing is a bit... but they're easy to work with. The thickness varies because of haw much the ABS has to stretch into the mould. The sides are very thin in places. The only really dodgy bit of detailing is the side chrome moulding which is way too wide. I wish Keith would get shot of it. Racers don't have chrome trim anyway. My next fully detailed body will use a Tamiya hard shell because of the detail and a kamtec front because they're much closer to the real thing. I'm not really sure why you're not keen on using one; there's plenty of them around and they can be had for reasonable money on the bay.[ This is a Kamtec body but it's had a lot of work!

That's comin' on great Mike. You've got a lot of sanding to do there though fella![] Those front pins and chassis plate look strangely familiar too.[]

Yup. Finding the front R/R rims is proving to be an *******! I could do with at least three sets.[*-)] Got several sets of rears waiting for them. That is looking very good so far though, it's got me thinking about my spare Super Champ body.[]

Get some silicone sealant remover from your local DIY shop or tile supplier. That's what I use, works a treat.[]

That rear cage is such a neat idea. It gives you loads of shock options and it looks 'right' too. Very cool.