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About beetleman

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  1. Found this thread so thought I'd ask here. Got these axles in an old original Bruiser, front ball is sheared right off and the gears are worn out to the point that the axle grinds. Can the gears be pulled off the shafts? It is my understanding that the XR311 kit uses the same gears. But how to mount them securely on the shafts if I were able to get the old ones off. Please help and if anyone has the front and rear axle shafts for sale I'd love to hear.
  2. I ended up buying the Robinson 48P 23T locally, the drivetrain is a tad quieter now (or did I convince myself?). Also learned something new - the 48P is imperial and the 06 is very similar but metric. When I expressed my frustration to the store owner on why would Tamiya make a hopup for the TD4 and use a different pitch spur gear (to make you buy more parts?), his theory was that since 48P is more delicate than the 06, it's faster, and that's the idea being a hopup... interesting. Some thoughts about the car - the battery swap procedure is madness (especially unpleasant at the field), dust gets in the pinion/spur area even after following the instructions with the sponge sheet, and the only way the battery fits is with low profile bullet connectors, and that's on top of the required low profile steering servo! BUT... having said all that, it's a Tamiya, and a modern one at that, which means quality that surpasses even what we've gotten used to from them. The hardware, the fitment, the plastics... amazing fun build. The car drives like a dream, sticks to the curvature of the track like it's glued to it. I'd buy it again without a second thought.
  3. I just realized the slipper spur is 79 teeth (vs the stock which is 70), so using the formula in the manual (spur/pinion)x2.6 it seems that with a 23 pinion I'll get an FDR of 8.9 which is right smack in the recommended range on the faster end! So looking for it I see Tamiya offers 2 different sets of 22 and 23 tooth pinions: item 50357 and 54217, to make life complicated. Anyone knows what's the difference between the two? Could it be aluminum vs steel? (judging by the colors in the photos)
  4. I left a good clearance between the pinion and spur, perhaps that's why no harm was done. Now regarding a bigger pinion, the motor manual recommends FDR of 8.9-11.0 for a buggy with the 15.5 motor. Looking at the car's manual, 20T will give 9.10 and 21T will 8.67, so 20T is the highest without exceeding the recommendation.. You're talking 25 or 26.. Am I just a nerd or won't those cause overheating and potential shut off?
  5. OMG. I will. But it's very strange that they would do that. The counter gear of the slipper matches the car's gears but the spur doesn't? I already ran the car as is and it ran perfect.. does this mean that 06 and 48 are very close? I checked the spur after reading your comment and it looks perfect with no wear or damage.
  6. This is my just finished painted body kit (driver is still in progress). Being an off road buggy I thought no need for crazy fast speeds, so I opted for Tamiya's 15.5 brushless motor, paired with TBLE-04S esc. I used the kit supplied 17 tooth pinion, and programmed the esc to be in brushless mode. The result is a little too slow for my liking. Should I just use a bigger pinion? Or upgrade to the 10.5 motor? The motor's manual states that with 10.5 the TBLE-02S esc would require the cooling fan hopup (45063), I wonder if that's also the case with the TBLE-04S esc I'm using. The car is hopped up with the slipper clutch and aluminum diff nuts. The slipper is not loose so no power loss there. Another confusing issue - the slipper instructions say to use with 48 pitch pinion, and it meshes perfectly with the kit supplied pinion, which means the kit supplied pinion and spur are 48 pitch, right? So why does the car manual say "use module 06 pinion gear" in the setting up section on page 29?
  7. Heh heh... but I already did it with a hardbody
  8. The D90 lexan body, even though made by Tamiya, is no comparison to the hardbody. Just the way it wobbles on the chassis when offroading was enough to put me off (think I saw that in a Mateo video as well). Tips? Love and patience. It was a tedious project but I'd do it all over if I had to. I decided to use the interior so had to cut it some to fit over the spur gear cover. The mounts are flat alu stock fitted to flipped over stock parts. To those flat bars I fabricated the mounts you see from metal angled hardware. I tried to keep it simple, with minimal mods to the original chassis. If anyone attempts it I'll be glad to help with more details. The new Unimog lexan body on the cc02? *yawn* I'm glad I gave up waiting.
  9. Thanks! Yeah Tamiya's lexan bodies are incredible, but there's no substitute for hardbodies. The driver is on a flight from China... Might have to quarantine on arrival
  10. The height ground to top of roof is approx 23 cm. The body is very heavy and compresses the shock springs almost to half their travel. While this shortens their potential, it's extremely realistic!
  11. After waiting for over a year for a new body on the CC02, I decided to take matter into my own hands. Now it's been discussed on this thread (specifically between Mad Ax and Saito2), but even though the logical thing was not to do it, I went ahead and did it anyway. Tamiya passion won out over reason So let me start by saying I think the CC02 is brilliant, not over engineered IMO, highly adjustable and cleverly designed. The number of different possible wheelbases is remarkable. This is what I expect from Tamiya in modern times, not a simple 80's design - leave that for the re-re's! I followed Matteo's advice about the wheelbases, but only after having the model in hand and while building it, I found there's even more play that Matteo did not address in his videos - the links on the axles are adjustable too, so you can actually reach the coveted 275 mm wheelbase! Tamiya must have thought about that, knowing there are a lot of bodies out there with this wheelbase. I had purchase the Xtra Speed D90 hardbody at the same time with the CC02 from RCMart, thinking I'll have to stretch the chassis. Imagine how relieved I was when finding I could reach 275 mm by just flipping some parts around. Mating the body (with its full interior!) to the chassis ... well that a whole different story for another time (probably the most challenging part of this build). Another influential source I must give props to is Kisun's defender videos.
  12. When I saw the new CC02 chassis it looked very familiar... 9 years ago (gosh has it been that long?..) my talented friend and former Tamiyaclub member Zeppelin, designed a CC02 concept from mostly Tamiya parts, modifying a CC01 rear axle into a front one. The gearbox was from Axial. Based on his design, I built a second one, with a few minor improvements. We ran them with Wrangler bodies. They outperformed the CC01's that we had. We had even shared it all here on Tamiyaclub, providing the blueprints and measurements for everyone to enjoy. I guess time does its thing, as apparently our posts have long been forgotten. Now I daresay that Tamiya have "borrowed" a lot of ideas from us - IMO the newly released CC02 resembles our design far too closely to be a mere coincidence (except for the battery position). But heck, judge for yourself! https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=101981&id=17334 https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=101982&id=17334
  13. This should be the official Tamiya video for the re-re. I hope they contact you and buy it from you, you deserve it! Say does anyone know if there will be another batch from Stella? Or was this the shortest limited edition ever?
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