beetleman

Just added an interior for the Jeep Wrangler to my offering. Check it out:

Hi guys, I am offering clear Clod Buster windshields. In fact my line of clear windows for Tamiya hard bodies includes: Mitsubishi Pajero Jeep Wrangler Clod Buster Toyota Hilux/Bruiser/Mountaineer Ford F-350 These are all for sale on ebay (just search "tamiya clear window"). However TC members get a 5% discount if they contact me directly. Cheers

Actually, the material is clear PVC.

Hello folks, Just thought I'd update that I have just added a clear window for the Pajero to my line of clear windows for Tamiya hard bodies. This line currently contains clear windows for the following models: Mitsubishi Pajero Jeep Wrangler Clod Buster Toyota Hilux/Bruiser/Mountaineer Ford F-350 These are all for sale on ebay (just search "tamiya clear window"). However TC members get a 5% discount if they contact me directly. Cheers

Thanks guys for the replies. I want to use them on my Wrangler and have blinkers both in the front and sides (I saw that's how it works on 1:1). So if I understand correctly I can use another pair in parallel and it will work? WillyChang - how do you know about the current limiter of the unit? Is there a spec I overlooked?

A lot of views but not a single reply... So no one knows this set or has experience with leds? Any comments will be appreciated. Thanks guys

Hi all, I just purchased my second 3Racing led light set as I was so pleased with it on my Tundra. I'm referring to the ingenious and stupidly cheap system that blinks according to steering and has functioning brake lights and even a backup light, all responsive to the transmitter. My question is can I add another pair of leds to the blinking ones? As there is only one socket for right blinkers and one for left, obviously I can't plug in additional pairs. So I was thinking of cutting and joining wires. But I'm afraid that if I do so in parallel, I may damage the unit as 2 pairs require twice the current from one socket? And if I do so in series, I'm guessing the brightness will be reduced in half? Or do leds require so little power that this won't be a problem? I'm totally guessing here as I do not have experience with leds. Please help! Thank you!

In case road cars are in this poll - 86 Km/h - TA05-R IFS with Novak GTB 4.5 and Intellect 7.4v 4000 MAh. Speed clocked with onboard Venom speed meter and verified with DXS telemetry.

I second the advice of a small dab of ceramic grease on every self tapping screw. Makes driving them into the hard plastic a breeze. I just started building my Hotshot re-re as well, and I must say, having built the modern Durga, the Hotshot feels like a jump through time back to the eighties with its low quality feel of hard brittle plastic, crude and clumsy design - all of which make it a must! I will be running it with stock motor for nostalgic fun only, as IMO it cannot compete with modern buggies, and hopping it up in an attempt to do so is like a gold ring on a pig's nose...

Well thanks everybody for responding with all your great ideas. For me painting the license plates was definitely the hardest step in restoring the original Scorcher. Even painting the shell was easy compared to this task. Perhaps if I wasn't so fussy I could have finished them on the first try and just live with the result. But I can't. It has to be the closest I can get it to perfection. That's what happens when your background is actually static modeling. When I started this thread, the plates were deep in brake fluid. I decided to take a route suggested by some great folks in this thread. First, I painted the plates with Tamiya light gray primer for the next paint to stick better. A few hours later I sprayed the lemon yellow. A day later I sprayed them with Tamiya clear. I let dry for a couple of days because I knew the next step is the trickiest. I then sprayed the royal blue and after a couple of minutes scraped it off the letters gently with a piece of smooth thin cardboard (pizza slice carton lol), laid flat on the letters and moved in a short circular motion. This gave me the best result and left the minimum amount of touch ups required with a brush. I did however have to spend more time touching up with a 00 brush to achieve the final result. The process was long and nerve wrecking. The last part with the blue I did about 3-4 tries per plate until I could settle for the result. By that I mean that in an attempt to take the blue off the letters I messed up the plate, rushed to the faucet, washed the blue paint off with a toothbrush, dried and resprayed. Thankfully the clear and yellow held strong and were unharmed by the toothbrush. Before the carton method I tried q-tips which were horrible. Also, I soon learned that timing is a factor. Too soon after spraying (less than 2 minutes) and too much paint comes off; too late and the paint sticks like crazy... What can I say, Tamiya giving us a sticker in the re-re instead of these god awful plates was probably the smartest improvement imaginable. Here is my result:

If you do that, I will be there! I visited NZ in 2005 and promised myself I will return to heaven, hopefully before I go to heaven LOL!

I was wondering what is the difference between the two types. Or to be more specific, what are the advantages of acrylic, as it has given me nothing but a world of pain lol. The only way I seem to tame it is by airbrushing it, and even then it builds up fat and won't cure for ages. By brush it just laughs at me and does whatever it wants regardless the surface texture.

I am near finishing my original Sand Scorcher, and it seems I hit a brick wall near the end. The license plates. How on earth do you paint them? I airbrushed the plates with Tamiya royal blue. That was the easy part. But when trying to apply the lemon yellow I ruin the entire thing, and have to remove the paint and start over, which is a real pain. I tried tooth pics, que tips, and nothing. I then scratched my head and remembered how they paint real license plates. They use a roller that goes over the raised portions of the plate. So I made a 1:10 roller for that purpose. But arrrgggghhh! It does't seem to work either! Please see the pics to see what I'm talking about. PLEASE HELP!

bakaguyjean, does the shell include lexan light buckets for the front?

I think this shell requires IFS and won't sit good on your TB01. Thanks Sosidge for your input.

Thank you. Well I guess camel yellow is the closest they had in their arsenal. How about my question about the Mica colors? Anyone?

Does anybody know what PS color is used for the Corolla Axio 58448 box art? There is no such model on TC yet and I can't find this info anywhere on the web. (I'm guessing camel yellow PS-19, but don't want to guess). Also, does anyone know what Mica means when used in Tamiya's TS range? How is Mica Red different from plain red? Same for Mica blue, Mica silver... Thank you!

I already saw it coming when they released the Buggy Champ. I said to myself, they'll probably re-release the Scorcher soon, but with the Blitzer body. Frustrating or not, to me it was obvious they wouldn't bother to recreate the original mold when they are still making the Blitzer body. I was even surprised they bothered to make it in white. The logic is simple; Tamiya are a commercial company aimed at profit only. From a "normal" person's point of view, the differences are too subtle to notice and this wouldn't hinder sales of the kit. And their aim is the "normal" majority of people. That's just my two cents. Personally, I think it's great that we got a second opportunity to crack open a NIB SRB kit without having to sell a kidney. Eitan

Well the info came to me after I had already painted the rear lenses red and orange, so I guess I'll leave it be as this is too subtle to mess with. The real 1:1 lenses did in fact come in both versions (full red for the US market). However, as for the front indicator lenses I think the pink could be the art fading on the box, as it is likely orange ones were used. Good luck with that restoration, lets see pictures! Eitan

I've chromed plastic parts with Alclad chrome, on top of Alclad black primer as instructed. Had to use an airbrush for both, but the result is impressive. Not Tamiya level chroming, but the best you could achieve at home. I will upload a picture soon. Eitan

Thank you so much Alistair, that is exactly what I was looking for. Suprisingly I couldn't locate it anywhere else! This is the legendary Scorcher after all, so you'd assume it would be a breeze to find. I see that in this paint scheme the rear lights are all red where in the blue/white scheme the top indicator section is orange. That is the info I was after. Thanks again to everyone who responded in this thread! Eitan

Hi all, I am unable to locate any good pics of the red/yellow box art. I mean original images by Tamiya. Were these only published on the original body parts set box? The original manual describes how to paint this version, but the pics are black and white. Please help. Eitan

I was scratching my head over how to make the front grill look more like the real truck, until I realized that the King Blackfoot front grill is a direct replacement, and with its horizontal mesh it's far more appropriate than the Extreme's vertical mesh grill. The problem is that I can't seem to source this part anywhere - PLEASE HELP!!! Referrence photo:

I searched the web for more info on the original truck and found the online version of the January 2008 article of Truckin' magazine: http://www.truckinweb.com/features/0801tr_...f150/index.html I dug deeper and was able to contact the owner, Jonathan, who turned out to be a swell guy - he offered to send me not only an original copy of the magazine with the article, but also to locate and send me spray cans of the original colors used on his truck! These colors are by House of Kolor and would have been otherwise impossible for me to obtain. New wheels have arrived which I will mount tonight and take a picture. Basically I'm done, however waiting for the colors will delay this project for a while. But heck it will be worth it in the end! Thank you Jonathan!!!

Stunning pictures mate, I actually saved them!