beetleman
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Posts posted by beetleman
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Found this thread so thought I'd ask here. Got these axles in an old original Bruiser, front ball is sheared right off and the gears are worn out to the point that the axle grinds. Can the gears be pulled off the shafts? It is my understanding that the XR311 kit uses the same gears. But how to mount them securely on the shafts if I were able to get the old ones off. Please help and if anyone has the front and rear axle shafts for sale I'd love to hear.
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I ended up buying the Robinson 48P 23T locally, the drivetrain is a tad quieter now (or did I convince myself?). Also learned something new - the 48P is imperial and the 06 is very similar but metric. When I expressed my frustration to the store owner on why would Tamiya make a hopup for the TD4 and use a different pitch spur gear (to make you buy more parts?), his theory was that since 48P is more delicate than the 06, it's faster, and that's the idea being a hopup... interesting.
Some thoughts about the car - the battery swap procedure is madness (especially unpleasant at the field), dust gets in the pinion/spur area even after following the instructions with the sponge sheet, and the only way the battery fits is with low profile bullet connectors, and that's on top of the required low profile steering servo! BUT... having said all that, it's a Tamiya, and a modern one at that, which means quality that surpasses even what we've gotten used to from them. The hardware, the fitment, the plastics... amazing fun build. The car drives like a dream, sticks to the curvature of the track like it's glued to it. I'd buy it again without a second thought.
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I just realized the slipper spur is 79 teeth (vs the stock which is 70), so using the formula in the manual (spur/pinion)x2.6 it seems that with a 23 pinion I'll get an FDR of 8.9 which is right smack in the recommended range on the faster end! So looking for it I see Tamiya offers 2 different sets of 22 and 23 tooth pinions: item 50357 and 54217, to make life complicated. Anyone knows what's the difference between the two? Could it be aluminum vs steel? (judging by the colors in the photos)
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37 minutes ago, DaveBuildsRC said:
very close similar. i would still get a 48p they are like 5 bucks. start with a 48p 25 or 26 and you should see a speed improvement.
I left a good clearance between the pinion and spur, perhaps that's why no harm was done. Now regarding a bigger pinion, the motor manual recommends FDR of 8.9-11.0 for a buggy with the 15.5 motor. Looking at the car's manual, 20T will give 9.10 and 21T will 8.67, so 20T is the highest without exceeding the recommendation.. You're talking 25 or 26.. Am I just a nerd or won't those cause overheating and potential shut off?
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46 minutes ago, DaveBuildsRC said:
The included pinion is 0.6 you need to get a steel or hard anodized 48p pinion or you may ruin the slipper.
OMG. I will. But it's very strange that they would do that. The counter gear of the slipper matches the car's gears but the spur doesn't?
I already ran the car as is and it ran perfect.. does this mean that 06 and 48 are very close? I checked the spur after reading your comment and it looks perfect with no wear or damage.
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This is my just finished painted body kit (driver is still in progress). Being an off road buggy I thought no need for crazy fast speeds, so I opted for Tamiya's 15.5 brushless motor, paired with TBLE-04S esc. I used the kit supplied 17 tooth pinion, and programmed the esc to be in brushless mode. The result is a little too slow for my liking. Should I just use a bigger pinion? Or upgrade to the 10.5 motor? The motor's manual states that with 10.5 the TBLE-02S esc would require the cooling fan hopup (45063), I wonder if that's also the case with the TBLE-04S esc I'm using.
The car is hopped up with the slipper clutch and aluminum diff nuts. The slipper is not loose so no power loss there. Another confusing issue - the slipper instructions say to use with 48 pitch pinion, and it meshes perfectly with the kit supplied pinion, which means the kit supplied pinion and spur are 48 pitch, right? So why does the car manual say "use module 06 pinion gear" in the setting up section on page 29?
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On 1/25/2021 at 4:35 AM, Timbut2 said:
This s an amazing looking body , i too have the CC02 Chassis , i was tempted to get the cco1 purely for the land rover defender body , having seen Mateo's videos on the wheel bases i opted to the cc02 ( the G500 isn't that bad but not first choice ) hoping for some body shells to be released - i know the CCo1 body will fit , now you have me all in a spin with that hard body - but a bit daunted to attempt it - but looks worth it ... what tips would you have ? as a 2nd time round RC newbie on surface , gave up my planes 2 years ago after losing all my nerve !
The D90 lexan body, even though made by Tamiya, is no comparison to the hardbody. Just the way it wobbles on the chassis when offroading was enough to put me off (think I saw that in a Mateo video as well).
Tips? Love and patience. It was a tedious project but I'd do it all over if I had to.
I decided to use the interior so had to cut it some to fit over the spur gear cover. The mounts are flat alu stock fitted to flipped over stock parts. To those flat bars I fabricated the mounts you see from metal angled hardware. I tried to keep it simple, with minimal mods to the original chassis.
If anyone attempts it I'll be glad to help with more details.
The new Unimog lexan body on the cc02? *yawn* I'm glad I gave up waiting.
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19 hours ago, Busdriver said:
I think thats possibly one of the best RC landies I've seen. Just shows what a difference a hardbody makes. All it needs now is a driver (marmite I know)
Thanks! Yeah Tamiya's lexan bodies are incredible, but there's no substitute for hardbodies. The driver is on a flight from China... Might have to quarantine on arrival
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22 hours ago, Fabia130vRS said:
Nice.
can you tell what is the height?
The height ground to top of roof is approx 23 cm. The body is very heavy and compresses the shock springs almost to half their travel. While this shortens their potential, it's extremely realistic!
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After waiting for over a year for a new body on the CC02, I decided to take matter into my own hands. Now it's been discussed on this thread (specifically between Mad Ax and Saito2), but even though the logical thing was not to do it, I went ahead and did it anyway. Tamiya passion won out over reason
So let me start by saying I think the CC02 is brilliant, not over engineered IMO, highly adjustable and cleverly designed. The number of different possible wheelbases is remarkable. This is what I expect from Tamiya in modern times, not a simple 80's design - leave that for the re-re's!
I followed Matteo's advice about the wheelbases, but only after having the model in hand and while building it, I found there's even more play that Matteo did not address in his videos - the links on the axles are adjustable too, so you can actually reach the coveted 275 mm wheelbase! Tamiya must have thought about that, knowing there are a lot of bodies out there with this wheelbase.
I had purchase the Xtra Speed D90 hardbody at the same time with the CC02 from RCMart, thinking I'll have to stretch the chassis. Imagine how relieved I was when finding I could reach 275 mm by just flipping some parts around. Mating the body (with its full interior!) to the chassis ... well that a whole different story for another time (probably the most challenging part of this build).
Another influential source I must give props to is Kisun's defender videos.
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When I saw the new CC02 chassis it looked very familiar...
9 years ago (gosh has it been that long?..) my talented friend and former Tamiyaclub member Zeppelin, designed a CC02 concept from mostly Tamiya parts, modifying a CC01 rear axle into a front one. The gearbox was from Axial. Based on his design, I built a second one, with a few minor improvements. We ran them with Wrangler bodies. They outperformed the CC01's that we had.
We had even shared it all here on Tamiyaclub, providing the blueprints and measurements for everyone to enjoy. I guess time does its thing, as apparently our posts have long been forgotten.
Now I daresay that Tamiya have "borrowed" a lot of ideas from us - IMO the newly released CC02 resembles our design far too closely to be a mere coincidence (except for the battery position). But heck, judge for yourself!
https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=101981&id=17334
https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=101982&id=17334
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This should be the official Tamiya video for the re-re. I hope they contact you and buy it from you, you deserve it!
Say does anyone know if there will be another batch from Stella? Or was this the shortest limited edition ever?
There should be more of them soon...
:)Cooltoys how do you know that for sure?
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This should be the official Tamiya video for the re-re. I hope they contact you and buy it from you, you deserve it!
Say does anyone know if there will be another batch from Stella? Or was this the shortest limited edition ever?
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So here I am reporting back. As soon as I installed the AVC Rx and set it up, I found that the analog servo was humming at neutral, and soon began to heat up. So I thought I'd better listen to the instructions for a change, and swapped it out with a cheapo MG995 digital one. Humming stopped.
I then took the Hornet out for a test drive. The Tx has a preconfigured button to control the amount of "assistance" you want from AVC - 100%, 50%, and none. At 100% the car was driving as if ole' Greg had sniffed some glue right before takin' the wheel (Greg Martin, the Hornet's driver). The car would not drive in a straight line at any speed and would zig zag sharply. At 50% it was drivable, but no fun. Still erratic and you felt the system was not helping you but bothering you most of the time. I say most since in turns it did seem to have a good effect. Overall I was disappointed, having spent a pretty penny on this system.
However, the plot thickens... Having nothing to do with the AVC adventure, I decided the silver can was not fun enough and ordered a sport tuned black can. First of all let me say that the difference is dramatic. The car is now a rocket, but a fun rocket, not a Traxxas-type ridiculous rocket. Secondly, now the AVC works nice! At 100% it's still a bit wobbly, but at 50%, the driving experience is unheard of with a Hornet. The car drives as if it's tuned perfectly. I tested a bit and turned AVC off a couple of times to see the difference, and without it all of the sudden is not fun!
So I guess the AVC performs best from a certain speed and up, especially on a wobbly car. And now that I've managed to tame the bouncy Hornet with it, I just can't go back.
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I have a Spectrum DX4C and an SR201 receiver. After binding them together, motor goes to full throttle when trigger is at neutral. When I push the trigger all the way to reverse, it's as if I let go of the throttle and the motor stops. I tried reversing the throttle channel but then it works the other way around - motor still goes to full throttle when trigger is at neutral, and stops at trigger full throttle! The ESC is forward only type. Does that have anything to do with it? Or is the receiver faulty? (brand new receiver). The trasmitter has been boundto another receiver (on a different model profile) which works fine. Please help. Thanks
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Is absolutely every human activity going to end up being controlled and monitored by an electronic nanny?
LOL, yeah I agree this is a trend, but I have to try everything out so just ordered the DX4C... I'll put it to the ultimate test on my bouncy hornet and report back!
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Does anyone have experience with this new technology from Spektrum? I've read about it in their website but do not understand whether it works with any car or not. In the FAQs it says:
- Can an AVC receiver be removed and used in another vehicle?
Yes, but it is not recommended. The SRS 4200 AVC system was specifically designed and optimized for the Vaterra Hälix and Losi Rally-X.
So is it good just for those models? It doesn't seem logical that they would create a system that can be used with just 2 specific cars.
- Can an AVC receiver be removed and used in another vehicle?
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Just restocked a limited amount of all clear windows, and added a window for the Toyota Tundra Highlift!
So I currently offer clear windows for:
- Toyota Tundra
- Mitsubishi Pajero
- Jeep Wrangler
- Clod Buster
- Toyota Hilux/Bruiser/Mountaineer
- Ford F-350
I also have an interior for the Wrangler.
I also offer Sand Scorcher, Rough Rider, Mountaineer, and Warn winch decals.
Cheers
- Toyota Tundra
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Lots of Norwegians make their way over to the U.K for Bug Jam every year so they must be massive VW addicts

That is an impressive collection of cars you have ideal2K, I used to drive a 72bug but recently sold it
, had it for 6years and it never let me down. 
Beetleman, so is there not a big following where you are? you are not far from where it all began.
What do you mean? I am in Israel - where it all began? What I meant is I'll be visiting Berlin soon and want to know where I can go to buy stuff for my beetles.
Localy we have a small beetle club. About 15-20 cars show up weekly. That's it. Parts are extremely difficult to obtain.
Thanks guys for the posts. Beautiful pictures ideal2k.
cheers
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What do you need? We got plenty out here in the West. I'm sure I can ship stuff to you cheaper than you can buy.
Minijosh, do you have a website? Do you sell on ebay? How can I see what you have?
Thanks
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Any info would be much appreciated.
Thanks
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Thanks Greg. Very helpful.
I live in Israel and will be visiting Berlin soon. So I can't help you with tracks there...
You wouldn't know by any chance of stores that have real 1:1 VW or specifically beetle parts, would you?
Thanks
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I was wondering if anyone could recommend good shops in Berlin that also carry Tamiya.
Thanks




Tamiya Bruiser axle replacements?
in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
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Does anybody have 1 original Bruiser headlight bucket?