beetleman
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Posts posted by beetleman
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Seeing caprinut's thread on his slammed beetle, I decided to open a similar one for my slammed Ford F-150 work in progress. As I converted my Blackfoot Xtreme into a Twin Detonator (added a front gearbox and a TD lexan body), I was left off with an ABS F-150 body which I almost put up on ebay. But then I saw this picture:
As Tamiya released the F-150 in Lexan on the TA02 chassis, I thought that would be a good start. After contemplating for a while how to tuck everything under the body (i.e. 'slam'), and almost buying SDI's negative offset wheels, I decided to try and use leftover M04 arms I had from my M04-to-scorcher conversion. A bit of elbow grease and a lot of trial and error later, the chassis is ready.
Almost touching...
Used servo horns as upper arms
To be continued...
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That's a great project mate. Coincidentally I too have started a similar project a couple of weeks ago - a slammed Ford F-150. Can't wait to see your finished result!
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Open the box and take a huge sniff of that NIB goodness
lick the tyres
Grab the tires and take a big sniff - ahhhhhhhh
otherwise i just sniff and build, yes i am a sniffer
As Mr Bean would say: "Look at all the bits."
"Mmm... now... I must be careful here... this is a vigorous... again lively, neat and sharp... oh but what a finish... yes... I think I know this one... yes... is it a Fox? " , "No sir, it's wee wee".
ROFLMAO
I never laughed so hard reading a forum topic before... Let's admit it - we are all tire sniffers lol!...
Making the chassis seems almost a chore in comparisonTim
Weird, I feel the opposite - the chassis build is all the fun while the body work is a pain that usually delays the finishing of the kit.
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58460 M-06 Pro Chassis Kit
As posted on tamiyablog.com
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Do both of your parents know that you two went through engineering school so you can modify a toy jeeps. I think they expect both of you to upgrade the real Merkaval like putting the engine at the rear.
I think Tamiya is hiring....
LOL! This is what we do in the very little spare time we have when we're not at work busting our @$$es...
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Good cheap solution to the front XC axle.
I designed an XC front axle a few years ago. RC4WD manufactured them and used to sell them.
Here is a build on scale4x4 that you might find interesting:
That is an interesting post indeed, although all that hacking of plastic is a lot less cleaner than starting with a new chassis.
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Well, after Jesus himself and 172 Nobel Prize wins, we, the Jews (
), bring you what Tamiya should have released a long time ago - the CC-02! When Tamiya re-released the CC-01 Wrangler recenly, we were both happy and disappointed at the same time. Happy, because the superb Wrangler body was made available again. Disappointed, well because of the out-dated, ancient technology of the CC-01 chassis.
Our main concern was Tamiya's sin of the wrong front axle, which as you all know is a live axle on the real Jeep.
We decided to take matters into our own hands. My friend, a mechanical engineer, started planning and mocking up a concept chassis. Soon to follow was myself, a computer engineer, with what we call 'version 2.0'...
Built combining Tamiya and Axial parts, as well as some custom made aluminum parts, the main trick was converting the rear live axle into a steerable, front one. Other major components used were the CR-01 ladder frame and Axial's gearbox.
A newbie will probably have a hard time sourcing all the bits and bobs, but if your repertoire includes a Highlift and a Durga for example (like I have), you will not only have the expertise, but also the endless leftover parts (mainly screws) required!
In case you were wondering, the superb clear windshields are available for sale in my traderoom
Hope to see some more in the future, who knows - perhaps Tamiya will get the hint!...
***The first paragraph was written with humorous intent, and in no way meant to ignite a religious war of any kind...
Here's how we did it:
And some 3D software CAD work:
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I used the Camel Yellow on my Nismo Pennzoil body set and thought it was bit too orange:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...=01072010174633
If I could do it over again, I'd probably go with regular PS yellow with the Camel yellow backing it, as it seems the real car color isn't represented in the PS paints.
I actually think that's a great idea (backing the yellow with camel). It's a nice compromise utilizing both paints in that order - the camel backing may add that missing tone for the yellowish yellow.
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bakaguyjean - that is very interesting that they actually changed the color. I don't know much about formula cars, but I think the F201 was F2001. See http://www.tamiyaclub.com/car.asp?id=299
Origineelreclamebord - why do you think the picture is animated? Search for "pennzoil nismo" on google images and you'll find a ton. I tend to agree with you on the yellow - I used camel yellow on my Durga and it is in fact very orangy.
At this point I'm thinking to use the paints Tamiya instructs. If they cared enough to produce a color especially for the F60 - this dedication to detail leads me to believe the colors they indicate in the manuals are accurate.
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Hi all,
I have been contemplating over colors for these two, perhaps you educated fellers can help me.
The F201 Ferrari manual indicates PS-2. However, with the new F-60 Tamiya released the 89922 PS F60 Bright Mica Red. Is this color correct for the F-201 as well? Did Ferrari ever change the color on the real cars?
As for the Pennzoil Nismo, I saw many people suggest using PS-19 camel yellow instead of what the manual says - PS-6. While the box art does seem more camel yellow than regular yellow, real car referrence pics show the 1:1 is in fact regular yellow.
Your thoughts are welcome.
Thanks,
Beetleman
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Not a single reply? Could it be no one's ever heard of Tamiya in Belgium/Brussels? I was certain this was the best place to ask that question
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I cant seem to source any more of the RR pinions at the moment only on ebay via seller atomic which after you buy he loads you on delivery charges
Yeah My_Atomic on feepay are ridiculous - AFTER you pay for your order they send you ANOTHER invoice for more shipping charges! When I asked why they said they had calculated original shipping costs wrong! What a fraud. Stay away from them!
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Hello everyone,
I will soon be off to Belgium, specifically Brussels and beautiful Brugge. Can anyone recommend interesting hobby shops (that carry Tamiya merchandise of course
) in these cities?Cheers,
Eitan
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Sometimes the differences are so elusive, but they are there. Put the BH (on the left) and the BB gear cases side by side and spotted the difference that prevented the spur gear from spinning freely. Tamiya never ceases to surprise.
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I feel for those who collect full boxes. My boxes only contain leftovers from the builds. If you decide not to run it, at least build it for display on the shelf. I have a very limited number of shelfers (SS, MB, etc) but all my other cars are runners, some even serious racers.
I race Minis (M03-R), tourers (TA05, TB03), off-road (DB01), and crawlers (CR01, CC01). In my opinion that's what RC is meant for. If you must collect boxes, you'll find that static modelling is a much more appealing (and cheap) hobby for you
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Thanks guys, kevinthegerbil that post was really helpful. This is an example where looks can be deceiving. The parts only look identical and Tamiya fooled us again. Now where in the world will I find a Blitzer gear case (part 9225332)? I was wondering about part A5 being missing, now I see it's a different parts tree!
How many teeth does the BH spur gear have? The BB one has 50. I wonder if the BH spur is smaller?
How did you end up solving this? Perhaps just dremel the BH case a bit?
This picture shows the BH A parts tree on the left, and the BB on the right.
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Guys, I have a related question.
I recently got a new gearbox case for my BB. When placing in the spur gear on its shaft, it seems its binding against the wall of the case and does not spin freely. At first I thought this is because the case is new and not "broken in" yet. But reading this post and becoming aware there are pinion and other differences between the Bear Hawk and the Blitzer Beetle, got me thinking maybe I got a Bear Hawk case which is not identical to the BB's?
Thanks
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Hi Skottoman,
Yes I remember us corresponding about this almost a year ago (jeez has it been that long). It's from you that I got the colors required for the mix. However I've been able to obtain only Pactra black. Just found today the yellow PC-6 on ebay, but cannot find the white (PC-1). I thought maybe someone on TC might know of a ready-made color.
Cheers buddy
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Is there a cream or off-white color available for polycarbonate? I've been searching endlessly for this color. Tamiya doesn't make it so I thought of mixing white, yellow, and a little black. But I cannot find PC-1 (white) currently anywhere for sale (I would of course prefer a ready made paint).
I want to paint a lexan beetle body to match my 1:1. Please help if you know something!
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When I first saw the release of the new 104 ESC from Tamiya, I was elated. I thought - finally a smart solution from dependable Tamiya, which will put an end to having to buy Novak's great but expensive Lipo cut-off module for each model in order to save those batteries and avoid a car to burst into flames.
However, a deeper look into this I found that its description does not mention Lipos - it only says: "Compatible with LF batteries, and includes a battery cut-off function to prevent over-discharging." The minimum cut-off voltage of LF batteries is way too low for Lipos, rendering this ESC's cut-off feature useless with Lipos? Also, we all know that Tamiya do not officially support Lipo technology for some reason.
So putting one and one together - was my joy for nothing?
Has anybdody gotten it yet and can shed some light on this issue?Thanks,
Eitan
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http://tamiya101.com/model_decals.asp?id=16
click "Decals/Paint" and there you go!
Remember, Tamiya white spray are very thing and tends to drip...
Good luck
Badboy
Wow, thanks!
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I see why the confusion.. RA1028 is probably right, because the RR did in fact precede the SS, so it makes sense the 506 sheet was the third to be issued, hence C. Anyway, my point was to find out if the re-re RR would include the 506 sheet, I guess not
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Rough Rider: A, B
Sand Scorcher: A, C
But re-issue decals are different
Thanks, but are you sure about this? I'm pretty sure the RR had the C decal. And how do you know the re-re are different? My concern is whether the re-re will include the 506 decals for all of us Scorcher restorers...
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Does anyone know whether this re-re will include the 3 SRB decal sheets? Did the original include all three, or were they included only with the Scorcher?
) in these cities?
Has anybdody gotten it yet and can shed some light on this issue?
Slammed Ford F-150 Project
in General discussions
Posted
After sorting out the chassis, fitting the body was the next challenge. I managed to do that be cutting the rear shock tower and opening a slot in the truck bed for the spur cover (which obviously coudn't be cut). I'm hoping the paint would help conceal that. I'll be changing the wheels as soon as the new ones arrive.