CoolHands

Nice. 730 quid though, ouch. I would like to make a tank one day.

Unfortunately he won’t be. He does occasionally post photos of a drive on facebook but he stated he won’t be making any more videos like the great ones he did before with the funky music. I always like his accent too when he talks.

tells you all you need to know!

I really wouldn’t give a toss. Some rc model shops are very old fashioned in the way they operate compared with what consumers (should) expect these days. Yes taking deposits for items without a known price if that deposit is non-refundable is inexcusable. Also they frequently list things that aren’t actually in stock with them (shadow stock nonsense) etc. as for the youtuber I’m sure he will just post whatever makes money inc these tie-ins that are common these days.

I searched the internet hi and low, there are defo no pics of his helmet. And hardly any of the car. Which is odd if you think about it, because Tamiya must have had proper reference pics to make the decal sheet etc so how do they get them? And these are a couple of other pics for interest. Pic below rights https://www.flickr.com/photos/antsphoto/ last one photo below copywrite Boris1964 https://www.flickr.com/people/45714583@N05/

I think you should spend up and get an actual monster beetle or blitzer beetle kit and sell the QD! Can run better batteries, is faster and more fun!

My head is spinning lol edit I see what you mean, so maybe I can just use those 4mm cup holders 51111 at both ends? Ie the servo saver and the arm side if I just use the supplied 4mm ball connectors?

I want to use the metal servo horn hop up along with the hi torque servo saver as shown (blue part). However I also want to use proper turnbuckles. So to use 5mm ball joint cups with the turnbuckles, (rather than the 4mm ball cups supplied) how / what 5mm ball connector can I use, as the holes are very narrow ie only intended for the plain thin bars or the 4mm ball connector as shown. Hope someone knows what I mean heres mine with the 4mm ball connectors temporarily fitted through the blue hop up part to see if they would fit i have these if they help Here’s a pic from petitRC showing what I mean it’s just my servo saver is blue metal not the white plastic: I think @TurnipJF knows a lot about Group C chassis so he might help! Anyone else have any thoughts?

Very nice, looking forward to seeing it finished the shell + decals is a brilliant one I wish I’d got one years ago i know you do very detailed driver figures, I’ve been watching some videos and I’m thinking of buying a couple of Raphael Kolinsky Sable 8404 to help, I’m guessing size 2/0 (I think I this is equivalent to zero zero) is that an appropriate size as far as you know? Eg: Size 2-0

Hi did you ever do this body / kit?

Took it out for its maiden voyage. Burnt the motor out in less than 10 mins! Will revert to silver can.

Ah ok, I’ll revert to the silver can! And run it a bit see how it goes. It’s only occasional use. Yes probably the gearing plus heat did for it. I don’t think you can change the original gearing anyway (not that I would bother anyway). Plus the model is heavy so that probably didn’t help!

edit, checked I don’t have any

A first for me this. This was in the first run of my Fighting Buggy. Did max 10 mins nothing extreme then suddenly the (also new) 15 turn core rc motor crapped itself. Not had this happen before - is it just random act, or could overheating do this? Absolutely stunk and the inside is complete mashed (I’m guessing magnet detached itself from can). Reason I mention possible overheat is only because this model happens to keep the motor enclosed which isn’t ideal. But, I hadn’t run it much, and I assume generally people don’t have exploding motors in their SRBs. I have run a 21 turn version of this motor in another model (touring car) previously and it was fine.

I thought I will take a self-portrait pic of myself while doing RC today I discovered I seem to inadvertently pose as Connor McGregor!