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About gt6++

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    Marseille, Fr

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  1. You mean these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-TAMIYA-SUPERSHOT-Joint-Propeller-Shafts-Pinion-Gear-HOTSHOT-SUPER-TP9-/312014122000
  2. Not sure I can suggest a good stick radio for small hands. I will be following to see what others have to suggest. My wife seems to think a stick radio would be better for our son. About the servo and ESC, you should be able to use them on your new 2.4ghz setup without any hassles. Just plug and play. I assume you have an ESC, if not it may be a good time to get one. There are many reasonable options out there today.
  3. Thanks for that pic Jugular, it confirms everything for me. Will have to look for some packing foam or the sorts in my storage. I still find it strange that Tamiya only mentions using the included foam strip inside the tray to fill a tiny battery gap, but doesn't say anything about the large gap on the sides. I am used to their manuals being fairly thorough.
  4. With Tamiya being so slow to catch on to using Lipo I never would have thought that they would now start making kits that cater to using them This is my first "modern" RC build in quite some time so I guess things have moved on....
  5. Hello everyone, I have been passing my Christmas holiday putting together an MF01X kit with my 3yr old son. It has been sitting in its box unbuilt for quite some time. I am glad that my son has showed interest in putting together the "truck". I have completed the chassis and just need to do up the body. I did an obligatory test run with an old sub-C 6 cell flat pack I had lying around. It doesn't seem to hold much of a charge anymore, but that isn't my main concern right now. When I put the battery in the tray, there is a gap about 1.5cm (see left side on photo). This seems like an awful lot amount of slop that will allow the battery to sway back and forth too much. I double (triple) checked the manual and I used the right parts and tamiya only mentions using foam on the bottom of the tray for correct battery fitment. Everything seems correct, but something tells me it can't be....I checked all over the net and did not find any mention of a similar problem in any other people's builds. Can someone just confirm that this gap is not normal? I am dreading taking apart the whole chassis just to readjust, but I am afraid I may have to go that road. Thanks for any pointers!
  6. These are great along with the Diebels version too. Wish they made just the body sets available...
  7. Just saw the listing on Tamico. Release date 01.11. I was excited until I saw the price :( seems a bit steep...
  8. Now this is the Tamiya I remember! I love it!
  9. It looks to be shaping up nicely. The body sits nicely upon that all familiar ORV chassis.
  10. THanks! I will have to order a pair and try it out.
  11. I am using the standard hotshot uprights. Will TA01 uprights fit directly on? Thanks
  12. It always seems that their servo saver can never be mounted center even when the servo adjustment on the radio is dialed in to 0.
  13. Hello, I have been slowly putting together a pretty tattered Hotshot II that I acquired a few years back. The gear cases had splits all over and the arms did too in usual places. So I decided to replace them with rere parts and was going to put CVD all around using ta01 hardened cups and the bigger E-clips. Figuring the HS II is pretty similar to a Boomerang, I followed this thread that suggests using DF-03 universals. The thing is that they bind on the fronts. I haven't put the front shock on yet, but the arms only go up to about 0 degrees before binding. Seems like the shaft is too long. I thought maybe I had gotten the wrong ones but they are fine in the back. I just don't get it.
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